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Nords

Member Since 05 May 2008
Offline Last Active Aug 26 2012 01:03 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: GE Profile Arctica freezer with bad WR30X10044 icemaker?

20 August 2012 - 10:11 PM

Six hours since we bought the new icemaker, and I've wasted $146.18.

I guess it's a good thing to periodically be humbled by an inanimate appliance.

As you know, this model of icemaker doesn't lend itself to troubleshooting. I've pulled it in & out of the freezer a few times, but it seemed to be intact. After I eliminated the other possible causes of its failure, I figured something electronic had burned out. Thermistor, control board, motor... hard to tell without some multimeter work. As if I could get repair parts for it anyway.

The new icemaker required several plastic parts to be stripped off the old icemaker and installed on the new. While I was sitting there with two icemakers in front of me, I realized that the "bin full" paddle sensor on the old icemaker had a loose spring. It was easy to see then because the new icemaker's paddle & spring were correctly assembled and operating a lot differently than the old one. The little prong on one end of the spring had come out of its hole in the icemaker body and jammed into the plastic a quarter of the way around its diameter. The paddle still moved, but it didn't have enough spring tension and the spring was flopping around on the base of the icemaker.

So I re-installed the spring on the paddle of the old icemaker, threw it back into the freezer, turned it on, and pressed the (very springy) paddle three times. Sonofagun, it immediately booted itself up and three minutes later (right on schedule) it squirted water into its ice mold for five seconds. Right on spec. An hour later we heard ice cubes going down its chute into the bin, and it's been churning away ever since at about one batch every ~75 minutes. Not that I've been taking logs or anything.

The paddle sensor spring either worked loose on its own, or it got smacked by one of us removing/inserting the ice bin. If the old icemaker survives the next couple days then I'll return the new one. I'll only get back $116.94 after the 20% restocking fee, but it's cheap tuition. I didn't have enough hands-on icemaker experience to recognize the problem until I had a new one sitting on the counter alongside the old.

I guess the $29.24 is also worth the way I would have felt if the GE appliance guy had driven out to the house, reached into the freezer, tweaked a spring, and charged me $100...

So thanks again for the troubleshooting help, and another donation to the United Samurai Beer Fund is working its way through the Internet draft tap!

In Topic: GE Profile Arctica freezer with bad WR30X10044 icemaker?

20 August 2012 - 01:03 AM

Most of the time it's just a bad thermistor in the ice maker
Problem is GE does not let you buy it
I have repaired these by replaceing it with a used one from an old ice maker that had a bad mold coating
other than that , your stuck . welcome to the wonderfull world of GE

Yeah, I was afraid it was a small part in the big machine, but it'd be a tough slog on Craigslist or Freecycle to come across one I could cannibalize.

It's frustrating. I go through a seven-pound bag of ice a week, which costs about $1.50 at the store. So the money I spend on a new icemaker is a hundred bags of ice, or nearly a two-year supply. And holy crap does that icemaker (and its bucket) take up a lot of room in the freezer.


Nords, here's the replacement ice maker for your refrigerator ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=WR30X10044

Thanks-- I see the replacement part number automatically comes up, along with an adapter cable if necessary.

In Topic: Kenmore (Samsung) microwave oven 401.80089700 runs but does not heat

05 July 2012 - 09:26 PM

I put in the new PCB, but the symptoms have not changed.

I'm going to go through the live voltage checks again to see if there was more than one problem, but otherwise I think I've just created a spare-parts locker for the other microwave of this model.

In Topic: Kenmore (Samsung) microwave oven 401.80089700 runs but does not heat

24 June 2012 - 03:28 PM

Ordered the control board today. We'll see if it really gets here in a week.

In Topic: Kenmore (Samsung) microwave oven 401.80089700 runs but does not heat

22 June 2012 - 05:10 PM

Thanks for the advice! That was educational and I think I made a lot of progress. I'm learning far more about microwave oven troubleshooting than I probably should know.

I get nothing when I try to discharge the capacitor. When I run the microwave at its full power setting for a couple minutes, and then stick my biggest slot-head screwdriver into the capacitor's positive terminal, and then ground the screwdriver blade to the chassis-- there's nothing. No sparks, no noise, nothing.

I'd stick a multimeter on the capacitor's positive terminal to see if it's charging, but my cheap Radio Shack electronic multimeter is only rated for 500 VDC. I don't think I can move fast enough to avoid a mishap.

But I don't think it's the capacitor's problem. When I plug in the microwave and check the AC line voltage to the transformer's primary terminal (the black wire coming through the primary interlock switch), it reads 120 VAC (so I know my multimeter is working). Before I started the microwave, I checked the voltage at the other two terminals-- the blue wire coming out of the high voltage transformer fuse read 8 VAC and the red wire going into the transformer's primary read 4 VAC. When I programmed the microwave to cook for a minute and pushed the "Start" button, both of those voltages went to 2 VAC as soon as I pushed the button. On my multimeter's 200 VAC scale (the lowest scale it offers), that's probably the same as zero.

So I think the transformer is not getting any voltage from the primary control board. I measured 120 VAC going into the noise filter and 120 VAC coming out to the control board, and both 20-amp fuses have continuity.

The PCB is part #58 on the diagram, part number RAS-SM7MGV-04. The Repair Clinic website linked from this forum doesn't list it with the microwave but it's under that part number as "Unknown part type, Item #1612512, OEM, $52." Our local appliance parts store can't order it from Sears or from Samsung. To my surprise, Sears sells the control board for only $35. Even more surprising, shipping to Hawaii is less than $30. I think you've shown me enough troubleshooting that I'm willing to make that bet.

I tried to look up the magnetron, but it's "not available" on Repair Clinic's site. Sears' website won't even tell me the price. The shipping weight & size specs look right, but I have to call their toll-free technician to try to put the order through. So if the magnetron is bad then I might not be able to replace it.

Did I misinterpret anything? Anything else I should look at before I order the part?

Thanks again for all the help. I appreciate having a better idea of the problem.


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