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NordsMember Since 05 May 2008
Offline Last Active Aug 26 2012 01:03 AM
- Group Grasshoppah
- Active Posts 29
- Profile Views 430
- Member Title Ikkō-ikki
- Age 53 years old
- Birthday October 3, 1960
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Topics I've Started
19 August 2012 - 08:49 AM
The icemaker says it's a WR30X10044 model CAN 17. It's inside a GE Profile Arctica PSS26NSTA SS side-by-side fridge made in 2006. We're the first owners and it's been trouble-free... until now.
I did the icemaker power off/power on test where you push the paddle three times within the first 15 seconds and then wait three minutes. The green LED came on when I pushed the switch and I could push the paddle 3x, but nothing else happened. It didn't initiate a harvest cycle.
I could see that the icemaker mold had some cubes in it, so I unscrewed/unplugged the whole icemaker and pulled it out of the freezer. It warmed up a little and I pushed the ice cubes out with my finger. They were only about a third of their normal size, so the ice mold hadn't filled correctly.
I shined a light up the water delivery tube-- it looks clear. I stuck a plastic chopstick up there four or five inches into the tube. I think it's clear.
I filled a cup of water from the in-door water dispenser-- only a few seconds to get eight ounces of water. We have a whole-house water conditioner and the water dispenser seems to have the same flow as always, so I don't think there's anything stuck in the fridge's water lines.
I checked the solenoid coil across the electrical terminals on the icemaker water fill valve-- 180 ohms. I've seen specs for other GE icemakers that say the solenoid can have a resistance of 150-300 ohms so that seems OK.
I jumpered the power connector from the in-door water dispenser solenoid to the icemaker water fill solenoid. Then when I held in the freezer door switch and pushed the water dispenser lever, a healthy stream of water shot out of the icemaker water fill pipe into the icemaker. So now I know that the icemaker water fill valve and the water line are working-- and they're clear. I put both of the correct power connectors back on to the correct solenoids.
I put the icemaker back in the freezer, plugged it in, turned it on, and repeated the paddle test. This time it initiated a harvest cycle and swept the arms through all 360 degrees. At the end of it, though, it didn't fill itself with water.
Maybe it had warmed up in the kitchen sink, and maybe the thermistor wasn't letting the full harvest/fill cycle complete itself. So I pulled the icemaker back out of the freezer, emptied out the water, and put it back into the freezer. I let everything chill out for a couple hours. (Fridgezilla has LED temperature displays for both the fridge and the freezer.)
Then I turned the icemaker on again and started the paddle test again. Nothing at all this time-- it didn't even move its arms.
So it looks like I need a new icemaker. I entered WR30X10044 into the Samurai's appliance parts search box and got "The manufacturer has replaced part number WR30X10044 with this item, part number WR30X10093." $143 plus only $7 for shipping, which is almost too good to be true for Hawaii.
Is there a cheaper component in the icemaker that I could replace (like a control board or a motor), or should I stop being a cheapskate and go for the whole $143? Am I missing anything else? Any other troubleshooting I should do?
02 June 2012 - 06:47 PM
We have two of this model of microwave oven because one of them is mounted over a matching gas range at our rental property. When one microwave breaks, we put in the good one and bring the broken one home to troubleshoot. In an archived thread from 2009 (http://appliantology...180089700-dead/ ) you guys helped me fix a bad magnetron TCO. That microwave oven is running fine again.
Now the other microwave is broken, and this time it's kicking my okole. It's just under three years old.
I started with the diagnostic guide at http://fixitnow.com/...agnostic-guide/ and got to "Microwave seems to run but does not heat". I used that block and the component tests (http://fixitnow.com/...components.html ) plus the Kenmore/Samsung tech sheet included with the microwave.
The magnetron's terminals had a resistance of less than an ohm and infinite resistance to ground. I haven't pulled it out of the oven to check its seal.
The capacitor seems good-- both terminal-to-terminal and terminal-to-case resistances are infinite. I have a cheap Radio Shack digital multimeter so I might not have been able to see the "Momentarily indicates several ohms and then gradually returns to infinite". I just got "OL" on the display.
The control board? Hard to tell. That sentence refers to the magnetron control board with the noise filter, right? It looks fine-- no scorches or discoloration, no ugly capacitors, both fuses still OK. I'm able to program all the microwave's features and make the display do whatever it's designed to do. I'm not sure how to tell whether the actual magnetron control board is bad.
I checked the rectifier's resistance with my cheap multimeter and got "infinite" both times. So I used the 9v battery tip (http://fixitnow.com/...microwave-oven/ ) to get 0 VDC and 5 VDC. I didn't get the 7 VDC indicated in the chart. Is 5 VDC considered "pass" or "fail"?
Finally I checked the transformer. As near as my multimeter could tell I had 0.5 ohms on the primary winding and exactly 129 ohms on the secondary. (My microwave's tech sheet specifies 129 ohms.) The filament winding resistance was zero and the windings to ground were both zero.
When the microwave is running, there's a small buzzing noise. It's not the internal cooling fan. It could be the transformer or the magnetron, but it's a slight noise. The magnetron seems to build up a static charge when it's running, so I'm reluctant to get my ear as close as it would need to be to tell the difference.
My tech sheet has a switch chart for the door switches. All three checked infinite resistance when they were supposed to be and zero resistance when they were supposed to be.
All the thermostats/temperature cutouts look OK... nothing charred or melted this time. I didn't put a multimeter on each & every one of them, but I could.
I've attached scans of the schematic, circuits, & parts. Same as last time.
Should I go through the "divide & conquer method" on this page (http://appliantology...conquer-method/ ), or is it something else?
Thanks for reading through this. What's left? What am I missing?
Kenmore Samsung 401-80089700 microwave circuits.pdf 136.33KB 4 downloads Kenmore Samsung 401-80089700 microwave parts.pdf 186.5KB 3 downloads Kenmore Samsung 401-80089700 microwave schematic.pdf 149.08KB 5 downloads
06 May 2011 - 04:38 PM
When you push a glass against the ice dispenser's lever, the flapper door doesn't open up.
After reading this board's other ice-dispenser topics I thought that the solenoid on the flapper door might be going bad. After some gentle probing I figured out how to pull off the front panel/controller. The solenoid's exterior was a rusty, drippy, anti-seize-coated mess. When I'd activate the dispenser, the flapper door didn't open because the plunger would only move halfway through the coil before binding. The plunger has some surface rust that could be filed down and the coil might be OK, but there are plenty of part numbers stamped on it and it's probably a better idea to replace it.
The flapper door seems fine. When I hook a dental pick on the arm that was attached to the solenoid and pull it around, the flapper moves without binding and the spring briskly slaps it shut. So it'd probably be fine with a new solenoid.
However I'm not sure how to fix the root cause of the problem-- the water dripping onto the solenoid (and eventually dripping down the back of the dispenser cavity and filling the water tray). It looks like condensation but it's only on the solenoid's side of the recess behind the control panel, and not on the left side (where the panel's electrical connectors and diode lights are mounted).
I guess the mounting area around the solenoid doesn't have good insulation. It's getting cold and condensing moisture (we're on Oahu) which eventually drips down to the water tray. I can't figure out how to get behind the plastic mounting area to check the insulation-- from either side of the door.
I can think of four ways to make myself feel like I'm doing something constructive:
1. I could drill a hole in the back of the plastic mounting (or from the inside of the freezer door) and squirt some spray foam in there, but that might squeeze or damage the door. I'd be working blind and if I drilled holes inside the freezer door I wouldn't be able to cover them up again.
2. I could put the solenoid back into the mounting holes in its cavity and then spray non-expanding foam around it, but that won't necessarily keep the solenoid & screws from getting cold by conduction and condensing more water.
3. I could try to drill additional drain holes around the area but that won't dry it out-- it'll just let the water drain more easily while fresh moist air gets in there to make more condensation.
4. Is there a small heater that would keep condensation from forming? Of course I'd be heating up that part of the freezer door, too, so the freezer would have to work a few watts harder to cool off that hot spot.
Or I could just put a new solenoid in there every four years.
Or I could just put in a new solenoid, sell Fridgezilla on Craigslist for $495, and buy a quality 20-22 cu ft over/under EnergyStar fridge that's a better fit for the kitchen.
Any other ideas?
26 March 2010 - 12:06 PM
I'm looking for a way to display our water meter's status through a remote monitor on a PC or a kitchen countertop box. Either constant monitoring or on-demand monitoring would work as long as it was real-time. It'd require an RF transceiver attached to a water meter plus another transceiver to sense the RF signal and display it on a monitor. I could also make it work with a wired connection. Or maybe this is just an electronic geek fantasy, not available in any stores, and I'll have to build my own.
It's for our yard's sprinkler system. I just finished fixing a nasty leak from a cracked irrigation control valve. Our sprinkler system is 20 years old and the valves are hidden in various hard-to-reach places. Our water bill (which is only read six times per year) showed that this one had been leaking for weeks before it got big enough to hear. We have eight sprinkler zones and two of the other control valves are getting mighty frail.
I know how to look at our street water meter's little spinning triangle for a leak, but I only do that if I think there's a problem. It's not easy or convenient to pry up the meter's sidewalk cover, chase away the centipedes, wipe off the meter face, and watch the little triangle. I don't have the discipline to do that every week. If a meter had a remote display on our PC or on our kitchen counter then I'd check it every day when I opened my frosty beverage. Several times.
About five years ago our water company put a small transceiver on the face of their analog meter. The meter is a Sensus SRII (¾") and the transceiver is a Sensus RadioRead. I guess it's queried from a vehicle's driveby system, so a monitor could tap into that signal instead of directly into the meter. Of course I don't know if the water company uses some sort of password or encryption, and I don't know if the meter transceiver detects small leaks or just reads in increments of hundreds of gallons.
It would probably be easier to install a meter/transceiver on our sprinkler supply line, but the transceiver would need to sense small leaks-- say from a drippy sprinkler or a clogged vacuum breaker or a valve/piping crack. Maybe I'd want to detect a leak as small as eight ounces per minute. This Inovonics MetraMeter (http://www.byramlabs.../MetraMeter.pdf ) reads one gallon per count.
If an affordable remote-display system doesn't exist then I could build my own like this guy (http://www.edcheung....utoma/water.htm ) Or I could just mount a meter (with a spinning triangle) aboveground on our sprinkler supply pipe next to the house. At least I'd check it every time I walked by it. But I like the idea of doing it from the kitchen or the computer, where I spend a lot of my time!
Anyone know of a retail system like this for homeowners, not for water companies?
02 December 2009 - 04:15 PM
During the 2-3 days before the microwave totally died, the display would randomly shut off. It would do this when the appliance was idle (not in use, nobody even in the kitchen or lights turned on, let alone any electrical equipment being used) and when it was in use. Sometimes unplugging the microwave and plugging it back in would restore the display, and the tenants could use the control pads to program the cooking cycle, but when they'd shut the door the display would blank out again.
That's a verbatim description of the tenant's observations/troubleshooting. I couldn't tell whether the door really had anything to do with the symptoms, or if that was just a vibration issue.
No blown circuit breakers. 120V is present at the line (input) terminals to the noise filter. The 250V 20A fuse appears to be fine and 120V is coming out of the noise filter's load-side (output) terminals. (The fuse's glass cylinder is wrapped in a white plastic that makes it impossible to see the filament, but it has zero resistance when pulled out of the board and checked with an ohmmeter. Besides, there's 120V at the noise filter's output.)
The control board looks OK-- no visible scorch marks, slagged solder, or other damage visible on either side. However the control panel display does not light up or make noises when the buttons are pushed, the microwave's interior light doesn't come on when the door is opened, and the vent fan doesn't run. Everything's deader'n a doornail.
I was able to measure an AC volt or two going onto the control board at the "Hi power secondary relay #2" and the "Low power secondary relay #1". So I'm assuming that voltage is getting to the control board.
Upon really close inspection with a magnifying glass, I finally noticed a small burn spot on the LED display module mounted at the end of the control board. It appears to be a sealed, integrated, & evacuated component. The scorch mark is a small 1/8th-inch circle on the lower right-hand side of the display next to the word "TIMER". The photo shows a couple arrows pointing to the scorch.
I think I'm going to need a new control board because this display module appears to have all 27 of its pins soldered directly to the board. The only way to replace it would be to unsolder the old display, yank it out of the board, clean out the solder holes, stick in the new display, and solder 27 pins. I doubt I could get it right on the first try, although my technique would probably be a lot better by the 27th pin.
Before I go board-shopping, is there any other troubleshooting I should check? Would any other part have been destroyed by this fault? Does anyone know if this control board has a recall or some sort of tech service bulletin or out-of-warranty repair guarantee? Is it worth replacing this control board, or has this microwave been "cooking" a lot of them?
I know that Kenmore is Sears' cover name for the actual manufacturer (in this case Samsung) but I'm having trouble figuring out how to search/order the "primary control board" or "smart board". What number do I use here? The microwave's model # (401.80089700), the card's label (00040RAS-SM7MGV-04), or the card's "part number" (DE41-00352A)?