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Trying to help

Member Since 21 Oct 2005
Offline Last Active Aug 12 2013 07:14 PM

#255633 maytag front load washer (whirlpool) doesnt start just beeps

Posted by Trying to help on 22 May 2013 - 07:18 PM

Yes, there is a 3 wire blue harness that runs from the CCU (Central Control Unit) to the MCU (Motor Control Unit) I believe it is the M3 connector. Unplug that connector at either end and let it hang. Now hit start, if the unit locks the door and acts like it is going to take off on it's little merry way, you have a bad motor control board. Chances are with this disconected after a minute or so a code will pop, but you will already have your answer. At the moment of start the CCU looks for two signals, door lock and motor control. If it does not see what it likes it tripple beeps. Removing the harness eliminates the bad signal. It will lock the door now and sit there looking for the MCU signal. No signal is better than a bad signal! Make sure you ohm your motor to verify it is not shorted and the source of the blown board though!




#254923 Amana Refrigerator Model# SQD26VE, Only 106-vac getting to evap fan

Posted by Trying to help on 16 May 2013 - 10:21 AM

I have a can of Key Board cleaner I carry in my tool bag. I turn it upside down and give the Defrost Tstat a quick liquid shot to verify. I am a worrier!!!!!!  I have to know for sure! You have the two test jump ports on the harness but I like the cleaner, it's COOOL!! Plus I use it for other crap ! 




#254918 Maytag Neptune No Spin MAH5500BWW

Posted by Trying to help on 16 May 2013 - 09:26 AM

On the 5500's, if you put them in spin via the quick spin test, and they ramp up and down 0-90 time after time and just keep doing that you have an open in the OOB circuit. Quick way to narrow it down.




#254544 Maytag Neptune No Spin MAH5500BWW

Posted by Trying to help on 12 May 2013 - 09:39 AM

Try putting the unit in a quck spin test off the tech sheet. What does it do there?? Does it go up in the increments outlined on the tech sheet, or does it ramp up and down the whole time??




#254140 any Rat stories out there?

Posted by Trying to help on 08 May 2013 - 07:06 PM

Amp draw opperated soap cup, lack of water or clogged arms and cup would not open. Belt was a 9-2115 I think for the original number................... I'm getting teary eyed....




#254048 JennAir SVD48600P - Power Relay Board Fail

Posted by Trying to help on 07 May 2013 - 06:45 PM

On sensor error codes, if the sensor is fine, and you know it, whatever the sensor connects to is the problem unless there is a relay stuck on an aux board causing an element to stay on and it truly is a runaway temp. In this case, on the schematic I pulled, the  pro style like you had showed the sensor to the clock. 




#254026 Maytag Centennial Dryer

Posted by Trying to help on 07 May 2013 - 04:07 PM

49572A is what I show in every look up I have.  Are you 100% sure the model is correct? If you change the 1 at the end to a 0, it takes a orifice kit #  234868

 

Did the valve have the old two individual coils, or was it the new kit where they are togeather???




#253179 Maytag Stove Model# CRG9800AAE

Posted by Trying to help on 26 April 2013 - 07:00 PM

Tech sheet would be in a plastic bag on the back of your storage draw. Pull it out and unless someone scarfed it, should still be there. You can not just lift the top. Each burner will unscrew (1/4 turn) and pull up exposing a screw that holds the top down to the burner orifice support. Once you remove the burners, the screws, then the top will lift from the front up hinging toward the back.

 

 

But you do not need to lift the top to get to the control panel on this unit. It looks like a free standing model by the model (clock on the panel at the back of the stove). There will probably be a screw or two under the control panel on the left and right sides,small Phillips. Once you undo them, the panel should rotate up and dislodge allowing you to lift the control panel and clock up and rotate it down to access the backside of the clock. On this model since you do not have a touch pad, the clock is the issue.




#253078 Defrst timer blues, I confused my self

Posted by Trying to help on 25 April 2013 - 09:25 PM

You have to admit my version, though one in a gabillion (it is a real number I think) was way more COOL!!!!!!!     




#253072 Defrst timer blues, I confused my self

Posted by Trying to help on 25 April 2013 - 09:06 PM

OK, are you sitting down??  Here we go.....

 

 

Reversed polarity... and a shorted to ground Pink wire on the Defrost bi-metal......

 

In Cool, the Tstat closes but is now sending neutral up to the red, combined with the short to ground we have no opposite potential so the timer does not run when the tstat is closed in cool. SInce the short is on the neutral side due to the reversed polarity, we do not pop breakers. When the tstat opens, L1 goes through our loads due to the reversed polarity, up the red wire to one side of the timer motor. Thus timer motor runs in cool with the tstat open! The shorted Pink wire to chasis ground acts as an opposite potential which turns on the timer motor...... In defrost it would work fine because with the reversed polarity we would be sending out neutral on the pink wire which would not pop anything.... sorry had to catch my breath......... the only flaw to this theory is.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

 

in refrigerate your heater would be staying on....the heater isn't staying on is it??........... Sorry Bimbbob! I was trying brother!!




#252670 Maytag Tool Roll

Posted by Trying to help on 19 April 2013 - 10:20 AM

I was never a fan of the tool roll till I left my tools at my girlfriends house one morning after I repaired an old porc. tub Maytag DW. I left for work from there, drove 60 miles south into Jersey to find I had left my tools in her house and only had that stupid tool roll to get by with. That was 1993 and I have never carried anything but that tool roll since. Working that one day with it SOLD me for the rest of my tool touting days. Tool bag with roll, meter, small bottle of spray cleaner and the assortment of other handy "thangs" 




#252286 JennAir SVD48600P - Power Relay Board Fail

Posted by Trying to help on 14 April 2013 - 11:32 AM

http://www.repaircli...umber=SVD48600P

 

The Clock is what is what the sensor connects to on this unit. If the sensor and wiring is good, the clock is what we need.

 




#252248 JennAir SVD48600P - Power Relay Board Fail

Posted by Trying to help on 13 April 2013 - 11:54 AM

Just remember when looking at the service manuals for this unit you have a P model which is the pro series. There is a board on the back, but that is strictly for Down Draft operation only. The board pictured a post or two back is for cooling fan and door lock only. The brains of this outfit is the clock assembly. If the sensor ohms fine, from the clock down, and you are 100% sure it is not the sensor or it's circuit, then the clock is what you need. Remember, sometimes sensors (and loads) ohm fine but are still bad. Prior to ordering a control I always have a sensor I put on the circuit to confirm. Does not happen often, but once was enough for me to always be sure.    




#252246 Jenn-Air range....D-120

Posted by Trying to help on 13 April 2013 - 11:36 AM

  • If they do not like the 10 minute pre-heat cycle, wait till they get the new one with the hidden bake element that takes 20+! Lower wattage for smaller cavity units and this old girl has a much smaller cavity than the new units. I have a schematic if you do in fact need one, but it sounds like it's working as designed.



#250709 Jenn Air Range Troubleshooting

Posted by Trying to help on 23 March 2013 - 04:31 PM

You will have to ohm it out. A sensor should ohm aproximitly 1050 Ohms at room temp. First thing I would do is programa Bake 550 temp. In a few seconds it will drop down to what it (It as in circuit between sensor and relay board on the back of the unit) thinks it is in the oven. If it drops to say 450, then the circuit thinks it is 450. Since you know the oven is at room temp, you then kill power to the unit and ohm the sensor, The higher the ohms, the hotter it thinks the unit is. Rule of thumb is 100 degrees is 1100 ohms. For every 50 degrees you go up, you go up 100 ohms. If your sensor ohms out at around 1800 ohms, it thinks room temp oven is 450 degrees. SInce you stated it happened shortly after the clean, I bet your sensor connector is crispy. Plus that sensor is a whole lot cheaper than the Power Relay Board (PRB)    







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