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pjw73nh

Member Since 11 Jun 2008
Offline Last Active Jul 09 2014 01:19 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Frigidaire GS23HSZBQ2 leak at main water inlet solenoid

07 July 2014 - 10:10 AM

SHogun,  Thanks.  The video was a GREAT help.  Now I see how the new style goes together. 


In Topic: Frigidaire GS23HSZBQ2 leak at main water inlet solenoid

05 July 2014 - 03:37 PM

I'm not sure I need a new water valve. The valve works fine. It's either the hose or the compression nut that's on the hose. Even if I got a new water valve, I would still need SOME means of connecting the new hose. Am I missing something? Thanks.

In Topic: State GSX40YBRS Stays lit for about 2 minutes.

11 February 2014 - 09:24 PM

UPDATE: Sorry for delay folks.  OK first Where's question #3 ?  I guess I had it in there and took it out before posting and forgot to renumber.

 

Now remember the unit is at my son's house a couple of hours away so I don't get there often, but I can instruct him on what steps to take.

 

I took Patricio's advice and I have actually got some help from the manufacturer.  They too said to clean it and they sent a free wrap-around filter for the entire bottom intake area.I haven't called them back since. 

 

At this point the unit has been cleaned thoroughly several times.  Burner/pilot/thermocouple assy and lower plate removed (exposing ceramic disk).   Compressed air blown on top with extended angle nozzle, simultaneously shop vac sucking on bottom.   No debris is coming out any more.  It HAS to be cleaned by now. It will stay lit for about a 5-7 days at a time now.  Simulating an air restriction, and wobbly flame,  we wrapped a thick cloth all the way around the air intakes.  Flame goes very orange (expected).  BUT even after 5 seconds it doesn't go out.  I don't think this is a starvation issue. But what do I know.  I wish I could set a video camera up to watch the pilot and see what happens when it goes out.  

 

I still am not completely confident the main burner is drawing the pilot away from the thermocouple far enough or for a long enough time to lower its output below 20 mv. 

 

The unit is just about 10 years old, and at this point we are considering replacing it.  I hate to throw a $60 pilot/TC/igniter at it if there is little chance that this is the issue. I'd rather put the $$ toward a new unit. I certainly don't want to replace the controller. 

 

Any more suggestions on where to go with this?

 

Thanks. 

 

Paul.../NH


In Topic: Goodman manufacturing GMPN080-4 furnace. What the heck is going on with the...

31 December 2013 - 11:17 AM

Sorry to leave you all hanging on this one... I haven't had a chance to go back out to the house and do anything yet.  

 

My son met an HVAC guy while he was waiting in line for lunch last week.  He got to chatting with the guy, and explained his situation.  The gent suggested instead of anchoring the filter inside the return duct (where it currently is) with coat hanger wire, he suggested using 1 or 2 screen door return springs properly attached to a couple of the brackets to hold the filter snug against the inside of the return.

 

Anyway, armed with the knowledge I've received here, and knowing it's just a matter of putting the/a filter(s) in any way that it is safe and functional, I am better equipped to look at the system and make a determination as to which method I will use.  I will update the post after my next step.  Thanks again to all for the great information. 


In Topic: Goodman manufacturing GMPN080-4 furnace. What the heck is going on with the...

18 December 2013 - 02:40 PM

Great. Thanks for the great info.  One more thing.  One of the returns i a bedroom is floor mounted.  Do you know if floor mounted filter returns are made.  I did a brief internet search and came up empty handed.  

 

Thanks. 



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