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pjw73nh

Member Since 11 Jun 2008
Offline Last Active Nov 10 2014 04:07 PM

Topics I've Started

Maytag microwave MMV4205AAQ Loud noise, smells like burning when mag is on.

13 August 2014 - 09:36 PM

Greetings,

 

I am doing some long distance trouble-shooting.  My son has a Maytag microwave MMV4205AAQ Sn 11247452GL.  Has worked fine up until tonight.  When the mag is turned on, it makes a loud (almost vibrating) noise, and after a few seconds smells like burning electronics.. When the mag is off, the unit sounds normal. IE turntable still turns, light and display are normal. 

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks. 

 

P.../NH


Frigidaire GS23HSZBQ2 leak at main water inlet solenoid

05 July 2014 - 01:07 PM

Sn LA 31801345

Main hose to water filter is leaking at the main solenoid. Right at or behind the nozzle type fitting on the end of the hose that goes into the solenoid.

This part is a available:
Part number: ap2115580

Part number: ap2115580



But the note with it mentions that the hardware (compression nuts) no longer ship with it. It mentions a standard 5/16 compression coupler. Does this suggest I cut the new hose and use the new nozzle end in the solenoid? If so, do I reuse the old compression nut ? And then use the coupler to tie the new hose end to the existing one?

I am suspicious that the issue (leak) I have might be the compression nut itself.

Thoughts comments?


Thanks....

Sent from a non desktop device...


Goodman manufacturing GMPN080-4 furnace. What the heck is going on with the air filter...

15 December 2013 - 10:51 AM

Goodman manufacturing GMPN080-4 furnace.
 
Ok, so one visit to my son's house yesterday for a hot water heater issue (unrelated) leads to yet another "new home owner" physical plant debacle.
 
He moved into the house a few months ago.  
 
While I was out there, we looked for the furnace air filter.  Not seeing anything resembling a filter door/drawer/slide. we took to looking inside the actual cabinet. 
 
Taking off the main side of the cabinet revealed a 16 x 21 x 1 filter just "resting" loosely against the side of the cabinet where the return air comes in.  Yes, it IS between the return and the blower, but it just sort of flaps in the breeze. When the blower starts, it pulls the filter away from the return side of the cabinet an inch or two, and I believe most of the return air just circulates around the outside of the filter.
 
There are no tracks, slides, doors or drawer.  It just sits against the side of the cabinet (on the inside), between the blower and the inside of the cabinet.  There is one small piece of what looks like coat hanger wire attached at the top of one corner holding it in place.  But for the most part it just flaps.
 
It is behind all the wires and safety interlock switch.  It does not look like the filter will come out easily. In fact, from the look of the filter, it looks like someone bent the filter in half, to get it in place, and then unfolded it. It looks pretty "jerry rigged" to me.
 
We have looked all over the return ducting for a filter and it appears that this is the only one.
 
So my questions are:
1. Is this a typical means of filtering the return air? I don't have a much experience with hot air systems, but I am very familiar with hydronic.  This just doesn't seem right to me. 
 
2. It looks to me like I need to have an HVAC/sheet metal person come in and somehow install a "door/drawer/slide" into the return duct so we get some reasonable filtering taking place. I've never done any HVAC duct work before except for wood stove chimneys, kitchen/bathroom exhaust fans and dryer vents.  . Is this something I can do myself, or who should i call?  HVAC guy or sheet metal guy?
 
Thanks for your time. 
 
Paul/NH
 
 
 
 

State GSX40YBRS Stays lit for about 2 minutes.

13 December 2013 - 12:30 PM

Hello,
 
State HW heater 40 gal nat gas. Mod GSX40YBRS Ser# H04A007252. Installed 10/2004.
Has been fine since we bought the house in 5/2013.
All of a sudden, today, my son (he's 60 miles away) woke up to no hot water. Gas stove and gas hot air furnace are fine. (Not a supply issue).
No pilot on HWH.  It will restart and appears to go out on safety.
I can restart the pilot fine. But when I let go of the pilot override and go to turn the tstat to the desired temp, the main burner fires up, and will run for approx 115 seconds, then I hear the "bink" of the gas solenoid closing and the burner shuts off immediately.  It does not fade slowly (as if it was a supply issue), it goes from strong flame to off immediately at approximately the 115 second time mark and the "bink". 
I had him clean the intake screen at the bottom and it made no difference. 
When I looked at the main burner flame through a little square glass window (via facetime), it was mostly blue with a little yellow at the tips.  It also looked a little wavy or wobbly.  I don't have any comparison for it, so I don't know if this is a good flame or not.  Also, the camera was not good enough where I could see if the thermocouple is being engulfed by the flame or not. 
I am going to drive out there tomorrow and have a look-see.  I am probably going to take the burner assy out and clean it. Or at least access it to clean it.  Do I need to take it out to clean it ?  There is also talk of a "ceramic disc" as well, but I can not find it listed on the diagram or parts list.  I have not been inside a (residential) gas HWH before so I don't have a lot of familiarity with them.
I have a diagram and parts list.  Are there any tips, tricks or suggestions that would be worthwhile for getting to the innards of the heater ?
I did notice that there are 4 "items" that connect to the control.
1. Main burner (large) tube (gas supply)
2. Orange wire for igniter.
3. Small copper capillary (I presume for thermocouple)
4. Small silver/steel tube about the same size the capillary above.  Pilot supply? 
Are there any other tests or diagnostics can I have him do before I arrive there?  Where tomorrow is Saturday, should I take any replacement parts with me (assuming I can get them today) ?   Thermocouple perhaps.
Thanks for any suggestions you may be able to provide.
-Paul.../NH 

Maytag A308 top loader, best method to remove damper pads

01 November 2013 - 08:27 AM

Greetings,

 

I am about to embark on replacing the damper pads on my 1975 A308.  I've seen many of the posts re getting to them and replacing them and the associated tips, but I was wondering, if they're glued on, (and I know I need to glue the new ones on) what is the best method of removing the old pads and glue, given the tight working quarters of the bottom side of the washer?  I would like to give the new pads a nice, clean, smooth, uncontaminated surface to stick to. 

Manual wire brush?  Scraper?  Solvents?  If so which ones? rotary grinder with wire brush attachment?  

 

Thank. 



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