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Member Since 14 Jul 2008
Offline Last Active Sep 14 2014 06:17 PM

Topics I've Started

Intermittent Inglis (Sharp) Model MR67130 Microwave

14 September 2014 - 06:17 PM

This is a 24-year old, 1.8 cu. ft Inglis microwave (manufactured in the U.S. by Sharp). It has a rotating element in the roof, a temperature probe and a metal rack. Lately, the microwave has been starting and stopping in the following manner: when you close the door, the display may blank out - if you are successful in getting the microwave going, it will sometimes stop (display goes dark), restart and then stop again (several times). Through trial and error, we have found that if we press the keypad at the left edge a couple of inches above the door push-button, it will often resume cooking. Once in awhile, we have to continue to hold our finger at this point until it is finished heating. Every time it quits heating, the clock also stops and it loses time. The push-button to open the door is not as 'smooth' as it once was and there are two 'tabs' on the inside of the door that seat into their respective 'tunnels'. I am pretty sure that there are some kind of interlocking switches at the end of at least one of these 'tunnels' and I suspect that this might be the source of the problem. There is also a prong that pushes a small 'door' just below the bottom 'tunnel' (I think it has a switch behind that controls the light in the oven) and that 'door' often sticks and the oven light goes out.

   I think that it may just need the inter-lock switches lubricated or, worst case scenario, replaced, but I am having trouble getting the cover completely off the unit. There are two screws at the bottom of each side and four screws along the cover lip that folds around the back (1 for each side and two for the top). I am able to lever the cover up at the back by spreading the sides out but the cover is solidly connected at the top front. I have tried pushing the cover as close to straight forward as I can and straight back to no avail. I don't want to break it where it is attached at the front but I feel that I need to get it off to be able to see and work inside the unit behind the keypad and door lock switches. There are two removable panels on the bottom of the until which may allow some access to components in the lower part of the oven.

  Any help/advice would be most appreciated. Thanx in advance.

Frigidaire Dishwasher (Cdn. Model BF44P1) Leaking From on Top

06 May 2013 - 04:05 PM


   Have 23-yr old Frigidaire dishwasher (Cdn. Model BF44P1) that has recently begun leaking from somewhere on top and only during latter third of each drain cycle (when it has almost eliminated all the water). The water (about 4 cups total after the 3 drain cycles) runs down the left side of the tub in 3 or 4 fine streams and ends up on the floor beside the dishwasher (I am now catching some of it in small plastic tray). Seems to me it also leaks more with each drain cycle.

   The only thing I can think of that's up on top is the feed to the upper spray arm and it seems to rotate as it should and connection is tight. Dishwasher has an 'all-in-one' pump that does both washing and draining, with a solenoid activated valve used to switch from one to the other. Don't really want to pull whole unit unless I have to - sometimes moving and undoing things just creates other problems.

   Any thoughts or suggestions?!



Frigidaire Cooling/Freezing Mystery?!?

08 April 2013 - 12:54 PM


  Have a 23-year old Canadian Frigidaire refrigerator (Model #TD173CRD3) that really hasn't given me much trouble over the years - defrost drain has been plugged for 3 or 4 years (water runs down inside back and we 'mop up' every 3 or 4 days - couldn't figure out how to remove bottom of freezer to unclog); replaced defrost timer about a year ago. About 3 weeks ago, noticed fridge and freezer both warmer than normal. checked around and 'discovered' that the cooling control in the fridge was set at the lowest setting of '1' (don't really know what it was before but am guessing that someone inadvertently changed/lowered setting while placing stacked yogourt containers adjacent to the control wheel). Raised it to mid-range ('5') and found that that cooled down the fridge section further. Temperature in freezer didn't seem to get colder (cold control was always set at 7 (max is '9'). Over the past 2 weeks or so, have been adjusting the cold control (7 -> 8 -> 9) and fridge setting (1 -> 3.5 -> 4.5 -> 5 -> 5.5 -> 6 -> 6.5 -> 7). After this made things somewhat better (ice cubes freezing somewhat faster but not all items in freezer frozen) but still didn't get me back to where I wanted to be.

I pulled the fridge out from the wall, vacuumed the condenser (no fan) and felt the compressor (it seemed quite hot to the touch). No ice build-up on filter-dryer. Evaporator fan runs all the time except when the defrost cycle is on (its definitely running and not iced up but could it be running slower than normal?). There are some 'vents' in the floor of the freezer at the front that have various foodstuff bits fallen into them over the years although they are NOT plugged (I would clean out but same reason as with the plugged drain).
Defrost cycle drain water is still accumulating in bottom of fridge (perhaps somewhat more slowly). Am now finding water (<1/2 thimblefull) on fridge door top (just below the freezer door) at non-hinge side and water on floor below hinge (<1 thimblefull). Can't really figure this one out. The fridge/freezer is 'sort-of working' ('cool' instead of 'cold') seemingly indicating that no component has failed but the things that would seem to determine the level of performance (condenser cleanliness, control settings, door seals) appear 'normal'. Please help.


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