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Dan Webster

Member Since 17 Nov 2005
Offline Last Active Mar 30 2015 04:05 PM

#217640 goodman gmpno80 goodman furnace... i blink... no gas flow

Posted by Dan Webster on 16 December 2011 - 09:54 AM

Good info Reg. I have these in my notes also:


A sampling of various failure codes on a furnace:

Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.


#217608 goodman gmpno80 goodman furnace... i blink... no gas flow

Posted by Dan Webster on 15 December 2011 - 11:16 PM

It is not rocket science. And as far as replacing a gas valve, test for leaks with soap bubbles before you fire that puppy off. Make some photos of your gas valve your pilot and you burners so we can know what you have. Ain't no way to look up sh!t fer HVAC on line


#217585 Ruud ugph-07eauer gas furnace

Posted by Dan Webster on 15 December 2011 - 07:30 PM

Every since I been online I ain't been able to find out anything about any HVAC pages. As you may know their are a bunch of appliance sites out there but not too many HVAC sites.That is why I suggested the Samurai start an HVAC think tank on his marvelous site. He graciously accepted my suggestion.


#217481 goodman gmpno80 goodman furnace... i blink... no gas flow

Posted by Dan Webster on 14 December 2011 - 10:24 PM

What I would do is remove the wires from the gas valve and fire that puppy off. Check if any voltage is gettin to the valve. The board won't be sending any voltage due to multiple factors. Bad board (fuse) or Bad limit(s) being the first thing I would check.
Sequence of events in the life of a draft induced high efficiency furnace:





#216832 Goodman furnace gmt070-3 Blower works, gas comes on, no spark.

Posted by Dan Webster on 08 December 2011 - 07:43 PM

Well I am glad you could git her did!

Attached Files




#216718 Goodman furnace gmt070-3 Blower works, gas comes on, no spark.

Posted by Dan Webster on 07 December 2011 - 02:12 PM

Unplug the ignitor quick connection and see if the ignitor has continuity. If it does then see if power is going to the ignitor. Hunt down all rollout/limit switches and makes sure they all are not tripped. If you find a tripped limit look for reasons why such as a partially blocked smoke stack, rusted burners etc. If all the switches are fine then the control board may need to be replaced.


#216717 Blower Motor not Reliable in HEATING mode - ArcoAire GUG070A012N

Posted by Dan Webster on 07 December 2011 - 02:00 PM

Well on older models you have a fan/limit that kicks the motor on. A probe is mounted inside the heater chamber and as the temp rises above 110f the fan kicks on. If the fan don't kick on then the bimetal continues over to the limit which kills the heat. Hence it is a fan limit and it looks like this.
On newer models the fan comes on after a timing sequence build into the main board. if that is the case ya probably have a bad or faulty board.
Note: it is impossible to look up HVAC equipment online. Photos of your stuff would be easier to diagnose.


#215546 how best to clean coils trane 3 1/2 ton heat pump 4wcy4042a1000aa

Posted by Dan Webster on 26 November 2011 - 12:49 PM

Get a gallon of the good stuff:

Attached Files




#213467 Goettl heat pump HP-601F2 only blows heat when the sun is up

Posted by Dan Webster on 04 November 2011 - 05:12 PM

Sounds to me like your aux or backup heat strips ain't workin. If the heatpump cannot reach the desired temp then the aux heat strips is supposed to kick in and finish the job on cold nights. Read more here:

How it works


#213252 carrier weathermaker 8000 inducer fan 58wav075

Posted by Dan Webster on 02 November 2011 - 10:33 PM

See any of these you recognize?


#213198 hanging furnace: Reznor xl 170: need help with wiring

Posted by Dan Webster on 02 November 2011 - 02:04 PM

Looks good to me. You might want to add a melting type fusenear the burners in case the fan don't come on and the limit fails.
Most of the time the fuse gets tied into the thermocouple circuit so that when it melts it kills the thermocouple and that shuts down the gas valve. They sell a little insert that has 2 wires on it. You remove the themocouple and stick the insert in the magnet then screw the thermocouple into it. You can then add in the fuse to the circuit.


#212461 hanging furnace: Reznor xl 170: need help with wiring

Posted by Dan Webster on 26 October 2011 - 09:32 PM

You have 2 circuits to deal with:

The heat circuit and the fan circuit. The heat circuit consists of 24 volts going to the gas valve from the transformer and being operated by a simple 2 wire thermostat like in yer pix. Note: usually the pilot thermocouple has a high limit mounted in it's circuit on the the heater that melts and kills the pilot in case that klixon don't turn the fan on or the fan is bobo and that is yer built in safety.

The fan circuit consists of that Fan klixon (wired to live current always) when the temp reaches around 120f it kicks in AND a high limit which kills power to the circuit if the fan fails to come on at the correct temp. Both the LIMIT AND the FAN Klixon are identical in nature but work opposite. The fan klixon will have a F and the temp rating stamped into the metal such as F-120 while the Limit will have something like L250 stamped into it.

So what goes wrong?
If the fan does not come on the limit shuts everythang down AND their ought to be another fuse (rated 300f) mounted somewhere near the burner to kill the pilot so that the thermocouple will cool down and shut off the flow of gas before the whole shebang burns down the shop.

Symptoms of a hangin heater gone south.
Pilot working, main gas won't ignite? Bad gas valve solenoid, transformer is wank, rat chewed the transformer wires.

Note: If you have a cheap asz boss like I had their is no need for a thermostat. The only time the heat came on was when he paid the bill and manually turned it on! LOL


#210562 York Diamond 80 P4HUB16N08001A - No Flame

Posted by Dan Webster on 09 October 2011 - 09:20 PM

OK The inducer fan comes on and the glowbar fires up. Then you should hear the CLICK/WHOOSH! Do you hear click but no whoosh? or no click at all?
If you hear a click but no whoosh of ignition then I would say one of them rollout switches is tripped OR the gas valve solenoid is bad. A quick check for continuity on the gas valve will verify that. If you hear no click at all I would say the board is not getting power from the pressure switch because the negative pressure from the inducer is not present. Clogged tubing from the inducer to the pressure switch OR the inducer fan ain't causing enough draft to trip the pressure switch and therefore the control board cannot get confirmation and aborts the mission. Captain we have a problem. What is is Spock i never allow yall to drink while on duty. Captain dilythium crystals won't fire off and I am freezin my aszs off up in here.




#210103 Maytag A390 series 04 fills - won't move forward.

Posted by Dan Webster on 04 October 2011 - 09:41 PM

207166 usual suspect if water fills but won't go. It is called a check switch. Very common issue with these machines.
It would be very easy to check, remove the switch and see if the little button pops out. If it is bad it usually won't.


#210090 Fridgidaire FEX831CSO

Posted by Dan Webster on 04 October 2011 - 08:55 PM

Researching WE4X197 is an exact match. Party on!





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