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Member Since 08 Oct 2008
Offline Last Active Dec 26 2014 06:36 PM

Topics I've Started

GE JTP27BA3BB oven thermostat burned up

28 August 2013 - 12:33 PM

I have a GE dual wall oven model JTP27BA3BB. When I turned the lower oven control knob on and to the warm position, a minute later I heard that ominous 60Hz hum and then smelled burned electrical components. Based on the parts diagram for this unit I believe the Oven Thermostat (part # WB20T10001) burned up. I would like to disaassemble and determine if this is acually the case. Can anyone direct me to a sevice manual and/or wiring diagram?


Also what is the typical failure mechanism for this part?



GE dishwasher buzzing drain solenoid

24 March 2013 - 01:30 AM

finally got around to replacing the drain pump assembly on my GE dishwasher model GSD2020F01. The leak was coming from where the solenoid lift arm cam enters the valve housing.


So I replaced the entire motor-pump-solenoid assembly, model DW10013, and no more leaks. However, the solenoid makes a loud buzzing sound during certain parts of the cycle. It seems when the solenoid first engages, it pulls the solenoid plunger all the way down and everything is quiet and the dishwasher drains. After a minute the solenoid seems to disengage halfway and this is when i hear the buzzing. After another minute the solenoid is fully released and there is no buzzing.


The buzzing is definitely caused by the solenoid because when I push on the solenoid plunger liftrod arm or the cam, I can get the buzzing to stop. so here are my questions;


1.) Is the solenoid only supposed to be in one of two states, either fully engaged or fully disengaged?

2.) Is the solenoid buzzing normal? I don't remember hearing this on the leaking pump assembly.

3.) How hot should the solenoid get? The plunger seemed to be very hot, i.e. hot enough where I had to pull my finger away.


Hope someone has seen this before and has some suggestions. Thanks!





GE dishwasher faulty rinse cycles

13 March 2013 - 11:26 PM

I have a GE dishwasher model GSD2020F01. I am suspicious that certain rinse cycles are not working properly but would like to confirm this. Here is what I see:


When dial is started at the "hot start" position I hear strange gurgling throughout this cycle. The users manual indicates that the "hot start" cycle sequence is defined as "Rinse - Rinse start selected cycle" which lasts approx 30min and uses 3 gals of water. When I bypass the door lock mechanism so I can peek inside while the washer is running, all I see is an anemic bit of water bubbling out the top of the wash tower which is not extended due to the apparent low water pressure. 


1. Is this normal?


2. Can someone explain what "Rinse - Rinse start selected cycle" actually means?


3. During the "rinse" portion of this cycle should the tower be fully extended with water spraying out the top along with the wash arm spinning?


4. Approximately how long should these 2 rinse "sub"-cycles be and how are they distributed within the 30min "hot start" cycle?


I performed the same bypass door lock experiment after turning the dial to the "heavy wash" cycle which is defined as:


"rinse-rinse-rinse-main wash-rinse-rinse-rinse"


It seems that I get the same gurgling anemic rinse cycles until the "main wash" cycle, I believe, kicks in. At this point the water is spraying at full blast, the wash tower is extended and the wash arm is spinning. And yeah I get a little wet! :)


In general the dishes do seem to get clean but I am basically trying to see if the washer is running sub-optimally due to the fact that the rinse cycles are not operating as they should. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

Replacing/Repairing WH83X10002 GE Washer Brake Assembly

04 October 2010 - 06:23 AM

Hi folks,

Back again battling with my GE washer brake/transmission assembly. After I re-tightened the hub nut I have been able to get another year of service out of it. However, now even after tightening the hub nut again the tub is incrementally rotating during the agitation cycle. This suggests to me the brake is not holding. When washer is stopped I can rotating tub manually with little effort. While washer is agitating I can, with a very little force, keep the tub from rotating.


1.) Is it common for transmission oil to get on the brake pad making it slip?
2.) Can brake pads be cleaned
3.) Can brake's be tightened?
4.) Can brake pads be replaced?

By the way, the tub bearing  and seal I replaced seem fine as there are no leaks from the tub down to the transmission and the spin cycle is quiet as a mouse.

I know many have suggested it is not worth the time but at this stage I'm kind of enjoying the battle and don't quite want to give up yet. :)


GE Washer Transmission/Brake Failure (WCXR1070TAWW)

17 February 2009 - 04:07 PM

3 months ago I purchased a refurbished Transmission/Brake Assembly WH83X10002 for my GE washer. After replacing it, I still felt it had too much transmission backlash for me so the vendor sent out a new transmission/brake assembly with a new tub bearing. I replaced both and things worked beautifully until a couple of days ago.

The tub seems to incrementally rotate during the agitation phase and there is a very loud knocking and each end of a back and forth agitation cycle. Seems like the brake is not holding. There are no leaks. The whole tub/tranmission assembly seems very unbalanced during a spin cycle.  Questions:

1.) What could cause the brake to fail if there is no leaking from the tub seal?
2.) Could the brake failure cause the transmission/brake assembly to become unbalanced?
3.) If the washer was allowed to go through a number of spin cycles where the unbalance was causing large tub motion, could the four dampers wear out? ( Iwant to make sure that the transmission/brake is all I need to replace)

Thanks for you.


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