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Member Since 28 Oct 2008
Offline Last Active Aug 27 2012 06:31 PM

Topics I've Started

Powdery residue in ice maker tray

27 August 2012 - 11:33 AM

Greetings all.

This is a general question. We don't use ice very often, so the individual ice cubes in our Sub-Zero over-and-under periodically morph into a shapeless hunk as the ice sublimates -- a common problem, I understand, with frost-free freezers.

I have noticed when cleaning out the ice tray that there is often a very pale green powdery residue left behind under the ice chunk. It washes out easily but does not seem to be soluble.

Obviously this powder must be either dissolved or suspended in the source water for the ice maker. Can anyone tell me what it is?



DD603 drain hose replacement...whoops

18 May 2012 - 11:14 PM

Hello again, ninjas.

So today I replaced the drain hoses on my tenant's DD603, per this thread.

Overall the job seemed to go okay, and I confirmed that both of the hoses were in fact clogged. However, the hose/wire loom routing was a bear. After I replaced the hoses and got everything back together, neither one of the drawers would close smoothly and completely. The upper drawer will seal if you keep it firmly pushed in while starting it, but the lower will not; it gives the five tone warning if you try to start it. On the plus side, when I ran a cycle on the upper drawer it drained fully, so at least something is working.

Obviously the hoses and wire loom aren't laying properly when the drawers are closed. Are there any tricks to getting this right? I found it particularly hard to get the length of the drain hose precise. Also, I noticed here that the link support kit with the wire hanger is now recommended for both top and bottom drawers. We have the link support on the upper drawer, but the lower drawers has a stiff nylon wire with three cable clamps.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated. My tenant's getting annoyed, so if I can't get this resolved quickly I'll probably have to resort to a professional (which I perhaps should have in the first place :no:).

Thanks again for your help!


Fischer&Paykel DD603 not fully draining

10 May 2012 - 05:10 PM

Greetings, gurus & apprentices.

We have a F&P DD603SS that is leaving behind about an inch of water in the tub after each cycle. This happens on both the top and bottom drawers. I looked through the past forum posts about the DDs (why doesn't anyone describe their issue in the topic title?!?), and found that the problem is likely caused by a clogged drain line.

I removed the drain line from the upper drawer. The non-return valve fell out (more on this in a moment) and about two cups of water soaked my shirt. I wasn't sure how to test if the drain line was clogged. First I blew through it, which didn't work -- no air flow. Then I filled it with water from the faucet. It spilled over the top and then very slowly drained down through the hose. I'm assuming this confirms my diagnosis of a clogged hose.

I looked on Sears PartsDirect and found that the manual's specified part numbers (525966 for upper hose and 525967 for lower) have both been superseded by 527137. That's fine but each hose costs $40; is there an acceptable way to clean out a clogged hose rather than replacing it?

Now, about that non-return valve. When it fell out I didn't see where it came from, or which direction it was installed in the hose fitting. The manual has no parts diagram (?) and the Sears PD diagrams show what I think is the NRV but the part number has no corresponding product page and anyway the drawing is too small to see how the NRV is installed. Any guidance here would be appreciated as well.



PS I do realize I misspelled "Fisher" in the post topic but I am not able to change it. Sorry, F&P marketing department!

Asko T780 constantly overheating

28 October 2008 - 06:38 PM

I've had my T780 for about 6 years. A year or so after I got it, it overheated. That's when I discovered the vileness that is the condenser, and learned to curse the Asko engineers for:
  • Locating the condenser behind an access door attached with two Torx screws;
  • Putting the overheat reset button on the back, requiring me to climb my W660 like a monkey and hang over the top of the dryer, praying that it doesn't tip over and kill me.
Since then the overheating problems have gotten worse. Last year I had to clean the condenser weekly or the dryer would overheat, and even then I could only use the "low heat" mode -- not fun on a condensing dryer. Now even with a freshly cleaned condenser the unit overheats if I run it with more than 1/3 of a laundry load (e.g., 1 queen size sheet).

When one of the drum wheels went bad and I had the repair guy out, he had no idea what was wrong. Asko is no help. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.



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