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GaiusBlack

Member Since 02 Dec 2008
Offline Last Active Sep 03 2011 10:12 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: JennAir JDS98660AAP slow to heat up

03 January 2009 - 05:20 AM


Success,

I had some difficulty locating a supplier with the relay in stock. Once I did, they would not ship overnight. Ordered it on December 29th, received it on January 2nd. Not bad considering they would not promise shipping in less than 10 days. (I wonder whether they really had it in stock) Anyway, I installed it about an hour ago, set the oven to 350 degrees, and was there in 10 minutes flat. 

To see if the original "F1" error would reoccur as it had at the 400 degree mark, I raised the temperature to 450 degrees.

Half an hour later all is well. 

Thanks for the help.



In Topic: JennAir JDS98660AAP slow to heat up

17 December 2008 - 03:04 PM

The "clock" or what I think as the control board has been replaced. The part I think of as fried is the DLB Switch aka the "relay - aux",Part # 74003482.
This appears to connect the L2 power line (single red wire from power strip) to the BR and BA elements (double red), wires feeding the BR and BA elements when actuated by the signal from the control board through the DC circuit. The DLB relay is the one humming. Your thoughts?

In Topic: JennAir JDS98660AAP slow to heat up

17 December 2008 - 01:57 PM

Thanks for getting back to me. To make sure I did this correctly, here is what I did. I disconnected the red wire to the power strip and the double red to the heating elements. With the meter on Ohms, and the oven on bake at 400 degrees I checked for continuity across the terminals, Nothing. "To infinity and beyond . . .” By the way, it is still humming. It's fried isn't it?

In Topic: JennAir JDS98660AAP slow to heat up

13 December 2008 - 06:02 AM

Okay, back in town, thanks for sticking with me.

So, volts DC across coil in DLB, (black to black). With oven on and set at 350 degrees, I read 18 VDC with a spike to 24 VDC or so, when a relay in the clock clicks, and almost instantly back to 18 VDC.

12/14/08: One more thought. It seems as if there is some sort of blown fuse somewhere. Is that the role of a "Hi-limit-switch"? In looking at the schematic, it seems like that’s' the one component I have not checked or replaced. I don't see anything "in line" on any of the black wires connected to the L1 feed that (at least on the back) where all other circuits connect so I'm guessing it’s in the run between the clock and the back of the range. Any merit in checking it out? If so, how do I get to it and how do I check it?

12/15/08: After I posted the above last night, I kept on researching, and testing. I've concluded that the "Hi-Limit-Swicth is a thermostat. I don't know how it is tested, but I disconnected it on one side and tested it for continuity. It checked okay.

 


 


In Topic: JennAir JDS98660AAP slow to heat up

10 December 2008 - 03:02 PM

I can confirm that the wiring diagram is correct, the double Red wires (each) go to the Elements ".  When I test for voltage from the terminal to ground, (with wires connected) I find no voltage there.  

I can also confirm that the single Red wire on the Relay (N.O.) connects directly to the main Power Terminal Strip (by itself)." The connector is shielded so I can only test for voltage after disconnecting it from the relay pin. There I find 120v (wire to ground).  With this single Red wire from the relay pin still disconnected, I find no voltage (Pin to ground), this seems correct since I've disconnected the feed from the Power Terminal Strip. Right?

Finally, I do not know what to do about the voltage across the Relay Coil being DC...


 Do I need to retest these? If so can you detail how?


 


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