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Budget Appliance Repair

Member Since 01 Apr 2005
Offline Last Active Today, 07:24 AM

#327840 Peerless -Premier 36"gas range P36S328BP

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 01 September 2015 - 07:18 AM

The oven switch is different in that it is only off in one position of the oven t-stat knob, (OFF), at any temp setting the switch should be on, sending power to the ignition module on the oven reig terminal.

 

The surface burners are not reig(re-ignite) circuits and spark continously when in the LITE position.

 

All surface and oven ignitors click when any surface burner is turned on and all surface and oven ignitors click when the oven is turned on but they will only click one or two times, (or until the oven pilot lights - the REIG/re-ignite circuit for the oven senses the pilot has lit by the mill-amps of voltage that will pass thru the oven pilot flame and stops the sparking of the ignitors and only starts sparking again if the oven pilot goes out).

 

EDITED TO ADD: I was typing this before your last post Matt and the above is a little wrong since there are two ignition modules.  If you turn on either the oven or any of the four right burners on, the oven and four right burners spark.  If you turn on either of the two left burners only those two will spark since they use the seperate 2+1 module.

 

If all your wiring and oven spark switch is OK then the only thing it can be is the 4+1 ignition module.

 

There are two ignition modules, (CTG51 made a mistake in calling one a 4+2),  one module is a 4+1 and the other is a 2+1, (first number is the number of manual spark outputs and the second number is the number of reig/re-ignite outputs).

 

Since you have 6 surface burners they use all of the manual outputs on both modules and only the reig circuit on one of the modules.  Both modules shouldn't be bad and if the wires are long enough you could swap the oven spark switch wires from the bad module to the reig circuit on the other module and it should work, (it's going to be a little more difficult then that because the common for the oven is paired with the common for the right four surface burners).

 

Here's the wiring diagram of the spark switches

36-inch-sealed-burner-switch-wires.jpg

 

You would have to swap the oven spark output ignitor wire(REIG) from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module then you would have to swap the COMMON-Black#2, MANUAL-Red#3 and REIG-Brown#1 from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module then swap the COMMON-Yellow#4 and MANUAL-Orange#5 from the 2+1 module to the 4+1 module.

 

The Yellow and Orange, COMMON and MANUAL on the 2+1 module could be reversed, from the above diagram there is no way for me to tell which would be MANUAL and COMMON but it really wouldn't matter as it just completes the manual circuit for the two left burners.




#327837 Samsung Frontload Washer No Drain M# WF203ANS/XAC

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 01 September 2015 - 06:24 AM

If you are doing the measurements with the wires connected to the pump, (as you should be), the most likely explaination is that most of these new appliances have a constant line voltage to the powered accesories and switch neutral with a triac on the control board.   Thus with wires connected and meter probe to either terminal on pump to ground will read 120 volts unless the pump is bad/open windings.




#327601 Whirlpool WFW72HEDW0 start/pause light blinking at end of cycle

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 27 August 2015 - 05:31 AM

I'm not positive about this but doesn't the start/pause light blink when the machine is paused?

 

Next time it is running push the start/pause button and see if it pauses the machine and the light blinks.

 

Possibly faulty Start/Pause switch on control board activacting itself, (pausing in this manner would not create any error code).




#327533 GE front load WBVH6240FFWW starting issue

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 26 August 2015 - 06:23 AM

Check your model number, is doesn't come up as a good number, (I believe this should be the correct model #WBVH6240F0WW)

 

This washer is really a Whirlpool made for GE with GE brand slapped on the front.

 

If you determine you do need the door lock/latch assembly order this one instead, (it's exactly the same one only with a Whirlpool part#).  Anytime you purchase a GE part you will pay 2 to 5 times more for it in the GE package - if you know it's made by another manufacture you can usually get alot better deal if you can cross it over.

 

If you order from the below link, if it doesn't fix your problem you can return it and only be out the shipping charges both directions.

 

Part number: 8182634

Part number: 8182634




#327467 Amana AFB2534DEW Refrigerator Stops Cooling

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 25 August 2015 - 06:29 AM

My bet from you last post is the crappy Tecumseh compressor locking up shortly after starting if it even actually starts running at all.

 

These compressors are known for that and the cost of replacing the compressor and recharging the system isn't going to be worth it unless your friend is giving you a very good deal.




#327301 Coin op. Washer and Dryer

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 22 August 2015 - 07:06 AM

Yes you can, the most common two keys you will need are the GR777 and GR888, that will cover most all Kenmore and Whirlpools.

 

GR100 is most of the older GE, (don't know if they are still using this key on the new GE stuff)

GR800 for SpeedQueen




#326884 broken plastic clip on Whirlpool Duet Washer model GHW9150PW1

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 16 August 2015 - 07:05 AM

Here's the part# for the plastic strip, (water diverter channel), front edges of the top panel slide under to retain it in place.

 

Shows as No Longer Available as of Oct 2014

 

Part number: 8182800

Part number: 8182800




#326761 Broken ice bin tabs Maytag MFI2568AE2 French Door

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 14 August 2015 - 07:08 AM

Is the picture you have shown just for reference, (one not broken - in the picture the tabs don't look broken to me)?

 

If this isn't a picture of the one you're repairing and the tabs you have circled are broken off, then it appears from the parts lookup the refrig iceroom is part of the refrig liner and as you say not available.

 

It would seem there should be some kind of repair kit to fix those if they break off since the way they stick out it would seem they could easily get broken.   I don't know of such a repair kit - hopefully someone else does.




#326452 Frigidare S/S FRS26R4CWB not freezing

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 09 August 2015 - 07:07 AM

Sounds like the typical Frigidaire that has emptied itself of it's R134A cooling gas!!!

 

Sealed system problem - time for a new refrig unless you really like this one and want to spend $300-$400 to repair!!




#326384 Samsung RFG293HAWP ice maker overflow

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 08 August 2015 - 06:35 AM

RepairClinic has a good picture of the valve, and that is not a diode.  It's a capacitor as I suspected, if you look closely you will see the two black wires from the capacitor are paired with the two purple wires going to the valve solenoid.

 

01358826.jpg




#326383 Access to drain pump on a Whirlpool Duet model # WFW95HEXW0

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 08 August 2015 - 06:09 AM

If you do go in from the back you don't have to worry about unscrewing the screw at the front of the pump, the ones without the access panel don't use a screw to hold the front of the pump down.  They use the red gromment that just slides over the front mounting point - so you just push the top of the grommet forward to front of washer to snap it out of the slot in pump front foot.




#326382 Maytag Atlantis MAV7200AWW Washer not draining it's water.

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 08 August 2015 - 06:05 AM

If it spins reliably every time you turn the dial directly to spin or if you find it in the spin cycle but it is still agitating and open the lid and close it again and it start spinning, then YES pretty much can only be the timer.

 

The motor run contacts weld themselves together so when it switches from agitate to spin the motor doesn't stop so reversal of the start windings to make it run it spin/drain direction doesn't have any effect since the motor is still turning in agitate direction.




#326352 Samsung RFG293HAWP ice maker overflow

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 07 August 2015 - 07:56 AM

Durham, I couldn't find any pictures of the water valve.  All parts breakdowns I could find had water valve as ref#24 but it comes up as the same part# as ref# 34 (cover water pipe).

 

I've never seen a valve that uses a diode unless it has the 3 valve setup for a filter and water dispenser plus icemaker.  Did you find a part# for the valve so I can see a picture of it or maybe the wiring harness, (Maybe what you are thinking is a diode is actually a capacitor?  See this alot now on any coil when the appliance uses electronics to absorb the ?EMF? backfeed when valve shuts off).




#326267 Kitchenaid Refrigerator Model #KSSC42FMS01

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 06 August 2015 - 06:59 AM

Isn't this the ones that just came out with that new updated board kit to replace the NLA board? (Three boards and connection harnesses)




#326266 Samsung RFG293HAWP ice maker overflow

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 06 August 2015 - 06:56 AM

 I unplugged and removed the ice maker to change out the freezer temp sensor. While working in the freezer I received a surprising short squirt of water from the water tube.  It sounded like the valve was energized for a sec. This would repeat itself every 5 -10 min or so.  


 

Thx

Durham, did you miss the BOLD statement?  I don't know Samsung so don't know if with icemaker out the water valve can still be activated by the board.







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