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Budget Appliance Repair

Member Since 01 Apr 2005
Offline Last Active Today, 06:46 AM

#309785 Kenmore Elite 11024962301 - Whining noise

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 19 December 2014 - 05:52 AM

Sounds to me like you have a bad motor drive coupling.


Part number: 285753A

Part number: 285753A



If you put it on spin cycle and the water drains out but the clothes come out soaking wet then I can pretty much say for sure it is the drive coupling - If you were able to run the machine with the lid open, I'm sure you would see that it also isn't agitating.

#309733 FGP325EW Roper Gas Oven

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 18 December 2014 - 06:07 AM

Sounds to me like you may just need to open the adjustable oven orifice on the oven gas valve, (maybe tightened all the way down for LP gas and someone is now using on Natural).


Has this been working OK and this is now a new problem or is this a range that someone just picked up somewhere and installed and really don't know anything about its previous use?


If nothing has changed and it was previouosly working correctly and now not, I would check the orifice for gookus build up in the orifice hood causing a lower flow/volume of gas to burner.

#309688 LG Gas Dryer no heat Kenmore elite model 79691473210

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 17 December 2014 - 07:25 AM

I don't think this matters in this case but just for your information, the flame switch is normally closed when cold - when it senses the correct heat from the ignitor or flame it opens which signals the board to open the secondary gas valve.


If the ignitor is glowing and the flame sensor senses this and opens and both coils on the gas valve are OK and you are getting 90 VDC to one coil but never on the second coil it sounds like a board or wiring harness problem.


Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 15 December 2014 - 08:24 AM

To test the heater timer contacts, (as Maytag1 suggest), one meter lead on L1 in BK23 other to BU64 - L1 out to temp control switch, (I maybe off on these markings - they are kind of blurry). 


Reads voltage drop across the heater contacts in the timer - if you get a reading of 220-240 volts, contacts are completely bad/open otherwise if all else is good in the circuit 0 to very low voltage reading if contact points are in good condition. 


If you are getting a very high voltage reading across these contact points, (anything over 10-20 volts),  then they are in very bad condition and timer should be replaced as they very well could cause intermitant no heat problems.

#309554 Kenmore FL Washer 110.42922200

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 15 December 2014 - 07:53 AM

I used to purchase the W10217134 pumps, (for the Cabrio/Oasis/Bravo rotor/stator models), it had the exact same motor but they have changed numbers and designs to the new part# W10536347 which I haven't tried yet, (most likely it will still work OK).


If you look up W10217134 it will change to W10536347 - if you look at the picture on APP it still shows a picture of the original W10217134 pump.


Part number: W10536347

Part number: W10536347


Here's what the newest revision W10536347 really looks like:




One thing that is just a minor difference, there is a rib of plasitc on the motor connector so it only plugs in one way, you have to cut that off as they put it on the opposite side on these motors.  


Even with the tab cut off the plug that plugs into the motor it can only be put on one way for the retainer tab to hold it correctly.

#309446 Old Skol Whirlpool LAF5500W1 washer rebuild

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 13 December 2014 - 07:10 AM

A bad/broken t-bearing would cause a slow/no spin since the bottom of the basket drive won't be supported in the correct positon when the unit shifts into spin which should disengage the brake and engage the clutch pads onto the basket drive pulley.


It would let the basket drive drop down more then it should causing the lower brake pad to drag when the brakes should be total free and not touching either the underside of support or the brake plate, (the lower pad would be draging on the brake plate).

#309220 Kenmore Stacked Washer/Dryer 417.99375100 Washer Won't Start

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 10 December 2014 - 07:33 AM

Electro_doc, the two hose he is talking about are the pump inlet and outlet hoses, (you have linked to the wrong motor for this model - it's an older one with the pump, that Samurai linked to above, on top of the motor.  It doesn't use the electric auxillary pump like the newer ones do).


Skifast, the most likely problem that would cause the pump to be frozen onto the upper motor shaft is that the pump has had a very slight weeping leak for sometime and has rusted the motor shaft causing it to swell up with rust and be stuck on the motor shaft.  A new pump with a clean motor shaft will slide on/off the motor very easily - an old one that has had a slight weeping seal, (not enough to notice as a leak), my have to be broken apart to remove it from the motor.


The next problem you have, if you break the pump removing it.  Appliance Parts Pros says part is NO LONGER AVAILABLE, (I just check E-bay and there are plenty available at very reasonable prices - I believe most that you find will be aftermarket pumps, I do see a few that are OEM Frigidaire pumps available on E-bay and possibly on other parts sites).


The bigger problem is that if the motor is really your problem - it is not available any more, (none found on Ebay either).  Maybe with some searching you could find one.  The old part number for the correct motor is 131609000 and the newest part number is 3204449.


You haven't done enough true diagnostics yet to know it is really the motor that is the problem.  You would have to ohm out the motor windings and see if the start windings are infact open, (that would be the only thing that could be wrong with the motor since it starts up when you spin it by hand - that proves the run windings are good and you're getting the power from the timer to the run windings).


Your timer very well could be the problem, the points for the start windings could be burnt out.  You would have to check this using a volt/ohm meter.

#309144 Monogram Undercounter Fridge ZIFS240PASS

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 09 December 2014 - 08:41 AM

If the noise is coming from the noise of the freon liquid expanding to a gas when it leaves the cap tube and enters the evaporator you may be able to quite it down by making a muffler.


This is what Electrolux/Frigidaire recommends and I have had success with the procedure.


The muffler is just a thick black mastic tape pad or permagum(sealing gum that doesn't harden with age) packed about and inch or two on both sides of where the cap tube enters the evaporator.

#309140 Whirlpool Cabrio Electric Dryer Model WED6400SW1

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 09 December 2014 - 07:37 AM

No need to do any other cross reference in this case unless the part you are looking for is a cabinet/painted part.


If you're doing appliance repair as your trade it pays to learn what the different part of model numbers reference to.


In all Whirlpool built lines, the last number of a model number is a revision code and it is important - sometimes parts do change signifitely between revsions.  Usually the last one or two letters are just color codes - in your case "B"=Black, the info you found with "W"=White model, (the only things that will be different are painted panels and trim pieces, just different colors - no other difference).

#309138 Wolf Commercial CH61829FT22L Ovens and Pilots wont light

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 09 December 2014 - 07:29 AM

If it uses the hot surface ignitors, I would start there checking amp draw on the ignitors for each oven first.


The very first time I ran across a case of a hot surface ignitor just starting to fail but still opening the gas valve and burner lighting was in a Wolf and the burner would light but the flame would be really small and find of flucuate.  Replaced weak ignitor and all was restored to normal.

#309021 >>>Amatuer Mistake on Frigidaire Gallery Dryer Rear Bearing<...

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 07 December 2014 - 07:53 AM

One more thing - Just about the only reason I can think of to ever carry even one of the GE labeled parts is if you do GE warranty work. 


In that case if the unit were under warranty you would have to purchase the GE parts for the warranty repair, (you could probably get around this and not stock the GE parts but use the Frigidaire parts for the repair then only order the GE parts after the repair was done so that you could get the correct GE parts warranty reimbursement).

#309020 Inksinkerator Badger 5 plus-7 died; how much hp do I really need?

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 07 December 2014 - 07:42 AM


.    Also, if you really want to be nice to someone, tape the allen wrench that come with it for breaking out jams onto the disposal or a pipe near it, so it can be found when needed.


Anytime I install a new disposal the last step of the installation is to make a little pouch out of duct tape, put the jam breaker wrench in the pouch and tape it to the side of the disposal.

#309019 ge mw model jes2251sj02

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 07 December 2014 - 07:38 AM

How to make a "Magic Light" for the microwave.


1) Get 3 or 4 range electric range indicator lights and pull the little bulbs out of them.

2) get a piece of plastic clear tubing at the hardware store about 3"-4" long that is just big around enough for the bulbs to slide into snuggly.

3) push and space the 3 or 4 bulbs evenly spaced into the tubing.

#308962 >>>KENMORE DISHWASHER NO POWER<<< mod: 665.13742k60

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 06 December 2014 - 08:21 AM

If this feature is available it will usually be noted on the techsheet, but worth a try even if not.

#308961 >>>Amatuer Mistake on Frigidaire Gallery Dryer Rear Bearing<...

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 06 December 2014 - 08:04 AM

Here's a section from my parts note list that will help you when you run into a GE branded dryer that is actually made by Frigidaire.


These are some of the most common seal and bearing parts with the GE and Frigidaire equivalant part#'s.




 WCI 5303281153 Complete rear drum bearing kit

           GE WE25X10001 same-part-as-above-ge-branded


WCI 131825900 Rear nylon bearing support only from kit above - if ball isn't worn and only the

                            bearing support cup is worn out this is all you really need - lube with heavy

                            duty auto wheel bearing grease, (alot better then the white litium that Frigidaire uses).

WCI 5303937182 Seal/Glide-upper (new style without teflon glides, with glue)
           GE  WE09X10013 same-part-as-above-ge-branded
 WCI 5303937139 Seal/Glide-upper (old style with teflon glides, with glue)
           GE  WE03X10001 same-part-as-above-ge-branded

 WCI 5303281049 Seal-lower 35" (1/2" thick, no glue, used without drum rings,
                                "square profile")
 WCI 5303283286 Seal-lower 45" (1/2" thick, no glue, used without drum rings
                                "??????? profile")
           GE  WE9x105 same-part-as-above-ge-branded
 WCI 5303937183 Seal-lower 46" (3/8" thick, with glue, used with new nylon drum rings
                                "tappered profile")


Below are two very good complete kits to stock, will take care of most of the problems with these

Frigidaire built dryers.  The kits include the Idler pulley/belt/complete rear drum bearing kit/

front drum upper glide strip and the front lower drum seal - everthing to completely rebuild the dryer

except for a new blower/motor assembly and timer.   The price of these kits, (especially wholesale price

is alot cheaper then the sum of all the parts seperately).


*WCI 5304461262 Complete rebuild kit (1992-2001 models) uses front
                glide/seal part# 5303937139 with teflon glide pads

*WCI 5304457724 Complete rebuild kit (2002 models and up) uses front
                glide/seal part# 5303937182 without teflon glide pads - uses glide ring

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