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Budget Appliance Repair

Member Since 01 Apr 2005
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:15 AM

#291022 Kenmore 417.94872302 won't spin

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 17 April 2014 - 06:31 AM

In your second post you said, "The idler pulley (the one below the transmission) will spin freely counter clockwise. It spins with some effort clockwise".


This statement led to some wrong conclusions.  If it is the large plastic pulley you were turning, that is NOT the idler pulley, the idler pulley is the little white one on the spring loaded arm that keeps tension on the belt.


From your last post it sounds like you will need to replace the transmission to fix your problem.  The transmission should only turn freely in one direction, the other direction it should completely lock up - if you are able to turn it in the lock direction by hand then the one-way bearing at the bottom of the transmission is bad.


Once the lower one-way bearing goes bad it creates to much resistance for the transmission to start turning and the belt burns up because the motor pulley just spins at one spot on the belt - the belt is made to slip in this fashion as this is the clutch for this machine, (the belt slips on the motor pulley until most of the water is out of the clothes and the basket is turning at full speed).


The lower one-way bearing can only be purchased separately from the transmission on E-bay or bearing suppliers by doing some research, then you have to be able to pull the old bearing and get the new one pressed back on.   The only official way to get the bearing is to replace the complete transmission.

#290933 Maytag Dryer Motor Instructions, No Model# yet

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 16 April 2014 - 05:59 AM

Looks to me like the motor will come with an instruction sheet telling you how to install and how to wire it up.


Your old motor most likely will have all 1/4" spade connectors with colored dots on the motor switch to match up to the wiring.  The new motor has the quick disconnect style connector with 1/8" spade connectors which is why it comes with the 3  1/8" connectors.   You must cut the old 1/4" connectors off and replace with the 1/8" ones to fit the terminals on the new motor - the instructions should tell what color wire goes to what number terminal, (the two heater wires will retain there 1/4" connectors and go to the outside terminals).


This is not going to be a fun one to replace if the motor pulley is frozen onto the shaft - it might be a good idea to just purchase a new pulley at the same time.


Here's a model number that uses this motor if you want to look up and see a parts breakdown - it's a stack unit, (LSE7806ACE).  Most all of this info is on the APP parts page that you linked to.

#290768 Kenmore washer mod 110.23832100 fills, agitates for short period then drains...

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 14 April 2014 - 07:33 AM

I still don't believe it to be siphoning as it did not behave abnormally in medium or small. I may be wrong there of course.


Did not behave abnormally in medium or small load?   Makes it sound even more like a siphoning problem!!!!


Medium or small load isn't going to put the water at the critical level for start of siphon.


Did you check the drain hose to see how far it was shoved down the standpipe?  Many times people loose the rubber goose neck part of the drain hose, the plastic corrugated hoses are horrible to try to get to stay in the stand pipe without the rubber goose neck, so it gets shoved too far down the standpipe to make it stay in place correctly.


Here's a picture of the drain hose to see what it should look like if the rubber goose neck is still attached, even if the goose neck is still on the drain hose, if they taped it into the standpipe so there is no air able to enter when draining it can also cause a siphon to start:

Part number: 285664

Part number: 285664

#290576 Ge cooktop model JP950S0K1SS error code

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 11 April 2014 - 05:55 AM

Chat, wouldn't the F1x3 = Open RTD pertain to this error code F113?


The 'x' being any number and corresponding to the element RTD which has the problem?

#290233 Whirlpool electric oven RF315PXDN0 runaway burner

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 08 April 2014 - 07:34 AM

If the original switch is the square RobertShaw style and not the KingSeley, (spelling most likely wrong), then the covers snap off pretty easily then you can remove the shaft from the cam and swap them around - sometimes this won't work if the shaft styles are a little different, (I don't know if you could then swap the complete shaft and cam assembly).  I have done this in the past also.


Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 06 April 2014 - 07:22 AM

Don't try to do to much to it before they come out to service it and if you do, DO NOT TELL THEM YOU DID ANYTHING!!!!


It is still under the 1 year manufacture full parts & labor warranty according to your purchase date if you have your sales info.  If you don't have your receipt to prove date of sale they may go by build date which would be (March 2013) which they may try to say it's out of warranty.

#289968 Frigidaire DW Md# FDB1050RES1

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 05 April 2014 - 06:42 AM

If it was actually attached to the pump sump that would be the temp boost t-stat for hi-temp wash and/or hi-temp rinse.  It would be a normally open t-stat that closes when it senses the correct temp to let the timer program continue.  I'm pretty sure they officially call this the temp assured t-stat - it makes sure the water meets a certain temp requirement instead of just heating the water during the wash or rinse cycles and not caring how hot the water actually gets before the timer program advances.


The hi-limit safety t-stat would be attached to the tub at the left rear corner and will have a rating of L230, (or something pretty high like that - I don't remember exactly what the rating is), it opens in case of a stuck heater relay or other heating problems so as not to melt down the plastic tub.


Bypassing the sump t-stat like you did won't damage anything but could very well cause a problem with how well the unit can clean since it will always think the water is plenty hot and never pause to make sure the water is at the correct temp, (maybe no different then running the unit without any of the hi-temp options selected).  I would advise you to definitely remove the jumper from the sump t-stat and give an estimate to replace the control board or if they don't want to spend the money or you can't get the part where you are tell them the only work around is to do as they are, (cycle the power to the unit at the breaker to reset it each time they want to use it). 


If they have really good hot water temp at the dishwasher and don't ever use the hi-temp options or the POTS&PANS/HEAVY DUTY cycles they most likely will never notice anything different with the sump t-stat bypassed, (Except shorter cycle times because it never pauses the timer cycle while heating the water during prewash/wash/rinse while waiting for the t-stat to close ).

#289910 Frigidaire DW Md# FDB1050RES1

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 04 April 2014 - 07:49 AM

What thermostat on the bottom of the tub are you seeing with an open reading, (the one at the left rear is the hi-limit safety and should read closed).  If it is one of the two, (sometimes only one - but I can't find any listed in the parts diagram), in the front right corner - those would be normally open and close when they reach temp for wash and rinse temp boost.  If none in the front right then there should be a thermistor on the pump sump but I can't find that listed in the diagram either.


None of these t-stats would have anything to do with the problem you are having.  You have a bad control board - I've ran into this exact same problem on this model of Frigidaire dishwasher.


Part number: 154712101

Part number: 154712101


I think I have tracked down the problem that is causing this to one of the diodes on the board shorting so that it doesn't block the electricity flow in one direct so the line that is attached to the door switch which breaks L1 to the board door switch line gets the feedback from the L1 which constantly powers the board so it never sees the door open after a cycle finishes which is what turns the clean light off and resets the board for the next cycle.  Unplugging resets the clean light and board because it removes all power from the board.


As far as seeing if the diode is the problem and trying to actually fix the board, I haven't done that yet - board has been sitting around for a couple years, (you know, one of those things you're going to get to someday).   I don't even know if for sure the diode is the actual problem since I only did test with the diodes still fully attached to the board - got correct readings on most of them but the one that was in the door switch L1 input showed continuity in both directions, (but again that could have been getting a reading thru the circuit somewhere).

#289903 Whirlpool electric oven RF315PXDN0 runaway burner

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 04 April 2014 - 07:22 AM

So Samurai, if I understand you correctly - you are saying the advantage goes to the  voltage type switches and are the better ones to use?


Another big advantage the voltage switch has over the current switch is less parts to carry.  If using a current switch you have to make sure you have the switch that is rated at the correct amperage to go with the element it is controlling - the 6" usually 5-6 amp range and the 8" usually 9-12 amp range.  


If using voltage switches the same switch can be used on a 6" or 8" element thus the RobertShaw 5500 series

5500-200 Push-to-Turn CW rotation to HI (Most common used setup)

5500-202 Not push-to-turn CW rotation to Hi

5500-225 Not push-to-turn CCW rotation to HI

These three kits will cover most all situations, but I really hate the break-off shaft setups and try to carry some of the more common OEM Frigidaire current switches that seem to fail quite often and there are so many Frigidaire & Kenmore/Frigidaire ranges out there.

#289776 Maytag MVWC4000XW4 Bad Gearbox

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 03 April 2014 - 05:47 AM

From looking up your model, my bet is on you having ordered the wrong transmission.


First you have a wrong model number listed MVWC4000XW4 (One extra zero in there - it should be MVWC400XW4)


There are 5 revisions of this machine 0,1,2,3,4 (the last number in the model number).


Revision 0,1,2,3 all take transmission part# W10006401 which subs to the newest part# W10330039.


Part number: W10330039

Part number: W10330039



The transmission for your revision 4 washer is part# W10469846, (which is about $100 less then the above transmission on RepairClinic and about $60 less on Appliance Parts Pros, both places show the one you need is not in stock).

Part number: W10469846

Part number: W10469846


On the revision 4 model the basket drive block setup has been completely changed from the first 4 versions - most likely the reason for a change in the transmission and possibly the problem you are having.

#289774 Bosch Dishwasher heatin problem

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 03 April 2014 - 05:23 AM

If you took the ohm reading directly at the two main heater connections at the heater and not thru the flow switch and you didn't get a reading then pretty much for sure the heater is bad.


You could double check yourself by doing a live voltage test, while running check for 120 volts at those same two connections and if you see 120 volts and still no heating you know that the heater is the problem.

#289773 795.77242602 "LG" Water filter

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 03 April 2014 - 05:15 AM

AARDL, You must have neglected to click the "Water Filter #1266885" link under related items.


Related Items:


Which takes you to the water filter only, (much more in line with what water filters normally cost $46.88 APP,  $48.50 RC)

Part# 5231JA2006F


Part number: 5231JA2006F

Part number: 5231JA2006F


#289715 cross reference help needed MD# 592-491080

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 02 April 2014 - 05:36 AM

If that is for sure the correct model number then I can't help you.  I notice your location shows as Canada, that might be the problem - I tried a Sears Partdirect Canada site and it didn't find anything with that model number either.


The serial number is good and recognized by the age look-up site and returned showing the washer is Samsung built with the exact manufacture date that you show so I don't know what is up with the model number.


How about a post of your picture of the model/serial# tag?


EDITED TO ADD: Did some google searching for 592-491080 and found the owner/use and care manual

which is listed for:

Front-Loading Automatic Washer
Owner’s Manual and Installation Instructions
Models 592-491070, 592-491080, 592-491170, 592-491180, 592-491020


Tried all these numbers and none came up with anything.  Doing a google search did come up with a parts breakdown/part list PDF file at two different sites, (one wants $18.95 and the $19.95), it's not a service manual - just a parts diagram/parts list&numbers.




#289460 Maytag MAVT446AWW

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 30 March 2014 - 05:08 AM

You don't find that part# listed as compatible because, OFFICIALLY it isn't the correct part - but it works just fine instead of replacing a complete motor just because the pulley is bad.


That pulley is just a fraction different in diameter or v-grove pitch, (I don't really remember which and it doesn't really matter), and should use the other listed belt but works fine with the original belt that goes with the yellow color original pulley.

#289398 Maytag MAVT446AWW

Posted by Budget Appliance Repair on 29 March 2014 - 07:42 AM

We were just discussing this exact topic about 2 weeks ago, (for about the 6th time), regarding the replacement motor pulley Part number: AP4024152

Part number: AP4024152



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