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jermitts

Member Since 16 Jan 2009
Offline Last Active Oct 18 2013 11:59 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Samsung RS267LABP fridge won't defrost, volts don't add up.

18 October 2013 - 12:03 PM

it was the thermal fuse on right side, it will open stay open

 

I decided it had to be that. I don't know how to test it, checked ohms while applying ice and it didn't seem to do anything. Maybe it works on heat.

 

In the end, we shorted the thermal fuse and put it all back together. I'll have him order the part.

 

 

When you test ohms you need to unplug power, or youll blow the fuse in your meter.

 

Yes, I guess I didn't make clear that I was testing without power. 

 

Thanks for the reply!

 

Jeremy


In Topic: Samsung RS267LABP fridge won't defrost, volts don't add up.

16 October 2013 - 12:36 PM

There's a 2x3 (6 positions) connector for the defrost, thermal fuse, and thermistor. The top connector (2x1) is for the thermal fuse with black and red, the middle connector (2x1) is for the defrost heater with red and white wires, the bottom connector (2x1) is for the thermistor, both yellow wires.

 

Using a continuity tester and long wire, with the high voltage connectors off the PCB, I determined that white (9) on connector 10 goes to the middle-right on the 2x3 (where the def coil plugs in) and orange (7) goes to top-left (where the thermal fuse plugs in). the top right seems to connect to middle left and all of this makes sense according to schematic. 

 

bwVF3on.gif

 

I plug back in the connectors to the PCB and plug the power into the wall. I put the thing in forced manual refrigerator defrost and it starts beeping. I check 7 - 9 on the PCB and the reading is 134 vac. (AEP runs a little high here...) Then I go around to the inside of the refrigerator to the 2x3 connector (thermal fuse and heater unplugged from it) and measure top-left to middle-right (which I believe I've already verified goes to orange and white, 7 - 9 on the PCB) and I get a reading of 39 vac. If I check top-left to ground, I get around 50 volts. If I check middle-right to ground, I get about 50 volts. 

 

I don't know what's going on here.

 

I get 92.5 Ohms on the heater, which isn't within 7% of 110 Ohms. I don't know what to make of that. A kind-of-bad heater?


In Topic: Samsung RS267LABP fridge won't defrost, volts don't add up.

15 October 2013 - 03:41 PM

>check fuse and heater at the evaporator.

 

Can you elaborate on this? On the red-white connector that goes to the defroster, with the connector unplugged and in my hand, I got 94 Ohms. That's not with 7% of 110, but it's not open, not shorted, and not that far off.

 

I assume the thing on one end or the other of the defrost pipe where the wire goes is a thermal fuse? Is that the kind of thing that opens and closes or the kind of thing that pops and has to be persuaded out of it's spot and replaced?

 

The way this thing is made (see pictures, other posts) you'd have to replace the evap and the defroster all at once, and that's well beyond my abilities, so I'm hoping that 94 is a good sign. Did someone say they replaced one without the other? I don't see how that's possible given all the fins connecting them...

 

 

[Demoted to Grasshopper] Jeremy


In Topic: Samsung RS267LABP fridge won't defrost, volts don't add up.

15 October 2013 - 02:10 PM

Future reference for me: 

 

Forcing defrost:

 

● Press Power Freeze and Fridge Temp. buttons for 8 seconds simultaneously to get in the ready mode for a forced operation.
● The display panel will return to normal after 20 seconds in the ready mode.
● At the ready mode, press any button(except Ice Type and Child Lock) twice for a defrost cycle for the refrigerator
At the pull-down mode, press any button again on the ready mode to begin the defrost cycle for the refrigerator. The beep sound continues for 3 second at the beginning, then ON for 3/4 seconds and OFF for 1/4 second until this mode cease.

 

Correct?


In Topic: Whirlpool EL7ATRRMS03 L1

28 April 2011 - 09:52 PM

So you're sayin' it might take an evaporator coil and a compressor? ugh. How bad is is running "full of air and humidity"? don't they make a little inline dryer we could weld in there and call it good??

I keep reminding myself that I only gave $1400 for both halves of this. MSRP was about $3200, but I doubt anyone ever paid that for them.

Jeremy

(here's generic pics)
Posted Image(imagine them without this gap here!)Posted Image


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