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Member Since 16 Jan 2009
Offline Last Active Dec 11 2014 07:51 PM

Topics I've Started

Samsung RS267LABP fridge won't defrost, volts don't add up.

15 October 2013 - 01:44 PM

Both compartments warm? no, just fridge.


Is Exap fan running? Yes = Troubleshoot defrost.


Homeowner friend called Guy out to look at this, he put the voltmeter on the connector for the defrost inside the fridge (it's red-white, center connector of a 2x6 pulg) and said no voltage here, "replace the board."


Homeowner friend of mine ordered a new board, same symptoms, so he wants to buy a new $1000 cold box, I say, just a defrost issue! can't be that big of a deal! 


I don't know how to force the thing to go into defrost (but I bet there is a way!), so I pulled the board and put 120 to Orange (7) and White (9) which are "ice maker pipe heater" and "defrost heater, R" respectively. It seems to me that same 120 should show up on the middle two pins on the 2x6 in the fridge, but it doesn't. In fact, according to the cheap meter, I'm getting about 50v to ground from either pin. And we're talking about good old USA 120 vac, where the 120 is from a 240 volt system with a grounded center tap. So I'm doing something wrong, and it's probably obvious and simple, but I couldn't figure it out.


I'm planning on going back with a long lead and the good meter so I can verify orange and white go where I think they go.


Ohms on the defrost coil is 94 according to cheap meter.


I'd love to know your thoughts. I've read http://applianceguru...rum1/16475.html and http://applianceguru...rum1/23665.html .




--Apprentice Jeremy

"Breaking perfectly good appliances since 1975."


Whirlpool EL7ATRRMS03 L1

26 April 2011 - 10:51 PM

Well, I wrote a long and beautiful post, and then it didn't post. I don't know where it went.

To the point. The fan is running, the coils are clean. The defrost timer is nearly brand new, and I ran it for two hours with the timer unplugged and timer-plug jumped to make the compressor run for sure. The compressor is making a weird noise since last night. I can't measure amps on the start/run because of the weird way they connect to the relay. Not sure if there is an easy way to test the relay. Hoping it's a relay or the capacitor. start/run windings are 9.7 and 7.5 ohms. Is this worth ordering a new relay and/or capacitor or should I just call the big-dollar man to replace the compressor?

Other stuff I left out- the weird noise sounds like the noise it makes for a bit while it starts, but it's making it all the time, but it isn't doing a run-click. I did short cycle it once today by accident and it did a proper run-click, but it cleared itself and started up again and went back to making the weird noise.

Thanks to all gurus.


DU1055XTVQ Dishwasher

27 March 2011 - 07:09 PM

Manual please?

Turbidity/Soil Sensor in a Whirlpool DU1055XTVQ dishwasher Info

27 March 2011 - 07:01 PM

Would I be correct in assuming that the Soil Sensor on a DU1055XTVQ dishwasher acts as a kind of variable resistor, returning a range of resistance to the main board to indicate cleanliness?

Is there any data available regarding the range of values for a properly working sensor? Ohms? Megohms?

If it really uses an infrared light and sensor, I assume some voltage is also being sent down the two wires? Seems like they'd use more than two wires for that. But I can see how it'd be possible with two...

Thanks for any info,


DU1055XTVQ draining

16 March 2011 - 09:30 PM

Read the washing machine draining FAQ and I'm not sure this model has any of those parts on the bottom.

I was just wondering if I should start troubleshooting from the inside or from the bottom. Was going to look for that check valve on the bottom first, I think it's inside a big orange rubber part with a spring clip holding it onto what looks to be a solenoid.

Also, is rust on the lowest screw on the motor a sign of a leak somewhere? The rest of the machine looks okay, but the rusties worry me.



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