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Member Since 18 Jan 2006
Offline Last Active Dec 03 2014 11:07 AM

#72723 Fridge cooling problem GSS25JEPA WW

Posted by Poobah on 29 May 2007 - 04:01 AM

Glad to be of assistance

#72533 Fridge cooling problem GSS25JEPA WW

Posted by Poobah on 26 May 2007 - 03:08 AM

hvacdrd your right on the mark as usual.....the original board shows to be the wr55x10174 changes to wr55x10335 then to the wr55x10552

I don't know what GE was thinking unless they were using the same harness for all boxes then but the white/yellow wire comes out as a single then bifurcates (thats my skoo noldge comin out) into 2 white/yellow wires going into positions 1 and 2.

If they did change the board and didn't cut the loop doing so should take care of the problem. The numbers on the board itself don't really co-inside with the actual part #. I'll try to find an old board and get the actual # off it.  If you do cut the loop just leave it to where you can reconnect if needed.

#72499 Fridge cooling problem GSS25JEPA WW

Posted by Poobah on 25 May 2007 - 08:19 AM

Click on  the link (in blue) of the board in my previous post. After accessing it you will see a paper sheet in one of the small boxes click on it and it will say clip the loop between 1 and 2 on the J1 connector (blue jumper wire).....this is if your board looks like the one in the picture which it should if they just did a board swap recently.....I can't find a picture to show you of it but it is pretty obvious after you get there.good  luck......check  back

#72485 Fridge cooling problem GSS25JEPA WW

Posted by Poobah on 25 May 2007 - 03:06 AM

The first thermistor is the 1-5 and is the fresh food one.....at 18.6k it is sensing about 25-28 degrees and is not letting the damper door stay open long enough for it to cool down, as it is satisfied that it is cool enough already. It could be a faulty thermistor but...read further

Did the people you bought this from say anything about putting a new mutha board in it? I've got a GSS20IEMB here in my shop that I have for personal use, the customer didn't want to fix it and I sold them a new one. Brought it back to the shop put in a new evap fan (nothing to do with yours) and a used board that I had here, didn't pay any attention. It would run freeze great on the freezer side (0 degrees) but not the ref. side(50-60 degrees) doing the same thing yours is....come to find out the ref. was the older style and the board was the newer wr55x10552 and I didn't cut the looping wire.  My damper door would open for a few seconds then shut right back down, after cutting the wire loop it took right off and has worked great for a long time.

If your ref. has the encoder knobs in the ref. side (2 white knobs that control the temps, not the digital) and the serial # starts with the following prefixes you will need to cut the loop-----TD2..VD2..ZD2..AF2..DF2..FF2..GF2..HF2..LF2..MF2..RF2..SF2   (if not then I would suspect the thermistor)  check  back and let us know  Good  Luck

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