Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


baumgrenze

Member Since 23 Feb 2009
Offline Last Active Oct 17 2012 10:45 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Year of Manufacture - GE Range XM25863A.

20 June 2010 - 08:58 AM

Hello appl.tech.29501

Thanks for the offer to check the microfiche. I was hoping someone would have access.

I can't see how to attach a jpg of the nameplate. In case, here's the critical info that is not 'boilerplate.'

Model Number: IJ408W1M4
14.5 KW
S/N: XM25863A

Thanks,

baumgrenze

In Topic: GE Washer WWA8350VCLWH (S/N TF117318G)

27 February 2009 - 08:21 PM

Willie,

Thank you one more time for your patiently offered advice.

I hope I can sign off from this thread. We will see if the WasherMagic helps a lot.

baumgrenze

In Topic: GE Washer WWA8350VCLWH (S/N TF117318G)

26 February 2009 - 04:01 PM

Willie,

Thank you for your most recent information. Is the time correct on your posts? They read between 3:30 and 4:00 AM. I hope you are not staying up all night on my behalf!

I cannot see any snubber pads at all. What I do see is this. The alignment of the inner tub seems to be controlled by steel cable that runs up to the left corner to a vertical pulley, across the front to the right to a horizontal pulley and then back to the rear right corner to another vertical pulley.

We have the agitator and associated parts soaking in dilute vinegar overnight to remove the lime scum that will come off easily. Discussion being the better part of valor, I think I will reassemble the machine and run WasherMagic through it to see what that accomplishes. Perhaps it will clean out the pump and associated lines.  At this point I won't pull the spin basket just yet. I do not think it will clear the top of the machine unless I remove the return water spout (right rear corner) and that looks like it might get easily broken unless there is a secret technique known only to Master Appliantologists to make it happen readily. It is, after all, 30 year old plastic.

Have you ever tried wire brushing the rust off the spline on the top of the agitator drive and then waxing it with classic carnuba car wax. It seems to forestall rust on the top of my table saw and machinist's square. Perhaps wash water is too alkaline and it will just decompose the wax. Is there such a thing as making it too easy to lift off the agitator? Will it come loose during the wash cycle?

Thanks,

baumgrenze

In Topic: GE Washer WWA8350VCLWH (S/N TF117318G)

25 February 2009 - 05:33 AM

Thank you for your guidance, Budget Appliance Repair.

I was suspicious of the Flickr images. I did not enlarge all of the images, but it was pretty clear that the outer tub of the machine on Flickr is made of plastic.

Is the "rust spots in a pattern like the drain holes in the inner tub are caused by leaking transmission oil" less likely (perhaps even much less likely) for my 30 year old GE than it is for the newer style machines?

Thanks again,

baumgrenze

In Topic: GE Washer WWA8350VCLWH (S/N TF117318G)

24 February 2009 - 12:18 PM

Dear RegUS_PatOff
 
Thank you for posting the parts break-down. I cannot be sure if this is similar. Perhaps part of what I am seeing is included in a second drawing showing the motor, transmission, and driveshaft for the agitator? I’ve attached a photo of what I see.
(GEWasherAgitatorShaftBoltsCloseUpSmall.jpg)

I will have to learn how to get it to show in the preview, but at least the image is uploaded. When I view it, it is



http://applianceguru...nt.php?id=4223.
 
Am I correct that my next steps in removing the inner tub are to remove the two horizontal bolts at the base of the drive shaft (one showing) and then the three bolts that pass through the inner tub whose heads are showing in the photo? I’d like some reassurance that reassembly will be relatively straightforward. The case on this machine is a continuous piece of enameled sheet steel that wraps around from a few inches in the back forming a back flange, the left side, the front, the right side, and a second back flange. It appears from this image I was led to by the FAQ:
 
http://www.flickr.co...57594119788747/
 
but this machine seems to have sides still attached. I do not want to unnecessarily get into a situation where I need to hold nuts from below through the back while inserting bolts through the tub.
 
I am considering an idea. I have a bottle of WasherMagic. I am tempted to reassemble the machine at this point and run it through the machine to see what it will accomplish. I am willing to be guided regarding hand cleaning things I can now reach, like the cruddy drive shaft, before putting things back together and using WasherMagic. I am also ready to move forward and pull the inner tub to get a sense of how filthy its outer surface and the inner surface of the outer tub are. Please offer guidance.
 
Thanks,
 
baumgrenze


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics