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baumgrenze

Member Since 23 Feb 2009
Offline Last Active Oct 17 2012 10:45 PM

Topics I've Started

Viking V241 Vacuum - Wiring Polarity

16 October 2012 - 01:36 PM

I asked for help with a repair manual (wiring diagram) for this Swedish Electrolux, AKA Volta U241, on the Repair Manual Forum. I hope this is not offensive cross-posting, as I did put these questions there, too.

I am repairing a Swedish Electrolux cannister vacuum. For certain it can either be a Viking 241 or a Volta U241. I found one 'equivalants' page that said it might also be an Electrolux MV 131, but I've not confirmed that with an image. The manufacturing date is approximately 1983. These machines are 'rocks.'

Might a Swedish manufacturer wire a black/white conductor cord with white as hot and black as neutral?

This machine has a cord retractor. The cord connection terminals are marked "L" and "N" but, as you can see, the white conductor is connected to "L" and the black is connected to "N."

Has anyone encountered this on other European small appliances?

I would like to be 'safe' and run the hot lead through the switch.

I've also attached two small images related to a 'variable power' feature of the vacuum. The first, from the “Instructions for Use" shows that in one switch position, 110V is applied to the motor and in the second, motor speed is controlled by a slider switch attached to the module shown in the "Electronics" image. I can slide the PC board out and photograph both sides if that would help identify how this 1980's 'motor speed control' works.

Thanks,

baumgrenze

Wiring Diagram - European Electrolux - Volta/Viking 241

14 October 2012 - 01:25 PM

I am looking for a wiring diagram for a European Electrolux cannister vacuum. For certain it can either be a Viking 241 or a Volta U241. I found one equivalants page that said it might be an Electrolux MV 131, but I've not confirmed that with an image. The manufacturing date is approximately 1983. These machines are 'rocks.'

Might a Swedish manufacturer wire a black/white conductor cord with white as hot and black as neutral?

This machine has a cord retractor. The cord connection terminals are marked "L" and "N" but, as you can see, the white conductor is connected to "L" and the black is connected to "N."

Has anyone encountered this on other European small appliances?

I would like to be 'good' and run the hot lead through the switch.

Thanks,

baumgrenze

Year of Manufacture - GE Range XM25863A.

19 June 2010 - 07:42 PM

I am listing for sale a vintage, retro GE Liberator range with the serial number, XM25863A. I'd like to be able to tell my customers when it was made.

I do not find the code in the decoder. This S/N must predate the rule. I have seen it described as a 1955.

We 'inherited' our range with our house when we purchased it in 1971.

Thanks for any help.

baumgrenze

GE Washer WWA8350VCLWH (S/N TF117318G)

23 February 2009 - 03:06 PM

I just finished a 25 year scheduled maintenance on our 1DA 820X1 W (S/N XX220 547) GE dryer which came, used, with our house in 1971. We gave up on the matching washer and bought a brand new on in 1980. It has been leaving soap scum residues on 'clean clothes' from time to time. I had notes for how to pop the top and pull the agitator. I am at this stage now.

The first observation is that the wash water return (top, rear, right) was full of lint. This suggests to me that perhaps the recirculation pump has a worn impeller and is no longer providing adequate flow. Does this make sense? I seem to remember replacing one of these. It may have been on the original machine. I cannot find any notes.

A failing, almost 70-year-old memory demands that I keep notes now, a digital diary with plenty of digital photos. They are a great help in deciding who goes where when it is time to reassemble. Here is one other suggestion FWIW. As you start, grab a piece of corrugated cardboard and poke all the screws and bolts into it as you remove them. Write a note next to them. Include the wrench size if you want to save time when reassembling or another time. Put the list into your appliance diary when you are done.


I popped loose the agitator cap and applied a few drops of Liquid Wrench to the splined shaft end through the openings in the top of the agitator. I gave the end of the shaft a few taps with a rod and hammer (to get the penetrating oil into the spaces between the agitator and the spines.) With a few minutes of rocking and tugging I removed the agitator. It is full of soap scum underneath. I lifted a small plastic cap at the bottom of the shaft and exposed three bolts that hold down the inner tub and some connecting hardware which I assume connect the shaft to the transmission. Is there a parts blow up I can copy from the web some place? The top of the shaft is quite rusty. Has anyone used Loctite's Extend for rust like this?  Click on this link for more information. Extend  I also noticed a few bare steel rusty patches on the outer tub, near the top, where the inner tub and outer tub have clashed. I am tempted to try Extend here, too, perhaps followed by a good metal enamel paint.

My wife is concerned that there may be rusting around the drain holes in the inner tub. Is it a big deal to remove the inner tub at this point? Is there a tutorial for this somewhere? I have read that what looks like rust may, in fact, be transmission oil leaking from a worn transmission. Would I pull the inner tub to replace it anyway?

Thanks for any insights on this project at its current state of progress.

FWIW and if it is permitted, well stocked appliance parts shops are getting harder and harder to find. For appliantologists who live in Santa Clara County, California, I've found what looks like a well stocked business:

Premium Appliance Parts
3445 El Camino Real
Santa Clara, CA 95051
(408) 241-9919

baumgrenze





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