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fixyourboard

Member Since 29 Apr 2009
Offline Last Active Oct 10 2014 10:27 AM

#279808 Kitchenaid Built-in Fridge - Remember SHOW ROOM mode

Posted by fixyourboard on 02 January 2014 - 06:41 PM

In the KSSC48QM and earlier versions "SHOW ROOM" mode was fairly obvious because the user interface display just cycles the display through all it's indicators - and, of course, the compressor never comes on.

 

In the KSSC48QT and brethren ... not so obvious! "SHOW ROOM" mode is entered and exited by holding "MAX COOL" and "POWER" for a few seconds. Everything acts normal except:

 

1. Compressor never turns on.

2. You CANNOT enter diagnostic mode.

 

Don't replace this $9000 refrigerator because the control board is NLA and it happens to be programmed for "SHOWROOM" mode!!!!

 

We're seeing a lot of these controls come thru the shop these days, almost always with real problems, but once in a while the re-installer gets stumped by inadvertently entering showroom mode.

 

Happy New Year to y'all!




#257306 GE Wall Oven: Display says "BAKE" but relays won't engage.

Posted by fixyourboard on 06 June 2013 - 11:50 AM

GE Wall Oven: Display says "BAKE" but relays won't engage.

 

From our tech support conversation:
  Tech Support: Is the door closed or open?
  Tech: Closed.

  .... long conversation with measurements etc ...
 
  Tech Support: I'd like to verify the functionality of the plunger switch on the door. Can you locate it?
  Tech: Yes, that's what I'm holding in to "close the door".

  .... Ka-Ching! ... Nooo!!!

  Tech Support: Please physically close the door and try again.
  Tech: The oven is heating!


TIME SAVING TIP ABOUT GE WALL OVEN:

If the control board thinks the door is open it prevents the heating element relays from engaging.
This is completely determined by the state of the 2 micro-switches in the LATCH MECHANISM.
(To cook switch #2 (top) MUST BE CLOSED, switch #1 (bottom) MUST BE OPEN)
The oven controller DOES NOT SENSE the PLUNGER switch!

Remember this to save wild geese. :woot:

 




#257302 KSSC36QTS02 KitchenAide SXS Control Does Not Come On

Posted by fixyourboard on 06 June 2013 - 11:44 AM

Also, you might check this thread:

 

http://appliantology...-thru-a-cowvac/




#255596 KA Microwave/Oven Combo - Start Oven and "DOOR" flashes

Posted by fixyourboard on 22 May 2013 - 03:47 PM

This has come up at least twice and on two completely different models/control boards (after re-installing a newly rebuilt control), but for exact same reason.

 

First the Symptom Description:

 

1. When using microwave only the magnetron comes on.

2. When you turn on the oven light the microwave light comes on.

3. When you engage the oven "DOOR" is periodically displayed, microwave light comes on and turntable turns.

 

The Cause:

 

OK, so on the first type: model RMC305 / control board 4448877 wire harnesses that connect to board connectors P7 and P4 are swapped (4 pin molex).

On the second type: model KEMC377K / control board 4453377 wire harnesses that connect to board connectors P8 and P3 are swapped (4 molded spade connectors).

 

Here's what it looks like from a schematic point of view:

4448877wiringX.png

 

Here's the back of the two different control board styles:

4448877X.png




#255468 KSSS42FK KA Built In Evap Fan not running after board/fan replacement

Posted by fixyourboard on 21 May 2013 - 04:57 PM

After replacing evaporator fan and having the main board rebuilt ... the new fan wouldn't run. Well it turns out that the new fan comes with a new wire harness BUT it only applies to certain models. It swaps some wires around and if you install it on the wrong model the evaporator fan doesn't get power!!! It looks just like the orignal (unless you look closely at the pinout). It seems the fan doesn't ship with the WP instruction sheet. Fan p/n 8201589, board p/n 2252159 and brothers, jumper harness p/n 2221077.

 

This has got to have caused a lot of head bangin' ! ??

 

Here's the instruction sheet. Sorry it's a png. Site didn't let me attach the pdf.

 

8201590.png




#255082 Whirlpool Oven Dim Display and Wire Nuts

Posted by fixyourboard on 17 May 2013 - 05:46 PM

A very nice lady from Houston sent us the oven controller from her Whirlpool RBD275 built-in double oven. We rebuilt and returned ... then got it back a while later with a note saying the display is very dim. We powered it up on our test bench and the display looks great. After discussions w/nice lady the syptoms were: I can read the blue clock ok (but not great), I can't read the temp display after a few seconds of starting bake.

 

So, long story short ... wire nut connections on the main power feed to her oven are corroded ... a few seconds after you push "start" the bake relay kicks in and draws high current causing the control board voltage to droop.

 

On the bench we hooked up a Variac (variable transformer) to test at proper and then compare to drooped voltage. You can see in the pictures that at full voltage display looks great (lower)  but with the line voltage dropped to 91V (upper) you can still read clock but the orange digits are almost gone. It's a characteristic of the display technology (vacuum flourescent display - VFD).

 

It's a good quick visual to see failing breakers and oxidized wire nuts (at least once they're degraded enough to add about 0.5 ohms of resistance to power feed).

 

 

low_v_display.png




#254134 An Unusual Fix For A Refrigerator With Hot Door Gaskets

Posted by fixyourboard on 08 May 2013 - 05:18 PM

Hey that's a smart field repair! Certainly more cost effective and energy efficient than throwing out the (high end model) refrigerator :)

 

By the way, we have been rebuilding a lot of those motherboards lately. Besides the condensor fan relay failing, the power regulator wigs out intermittently and causes all kinds of random intermittent problems. Sometimes the temperature display will dim out or flash as a failure indication. It can also cause the evaporator fan and compressor to run intermittently. So if you run into that next, don't scrap that expensive fridge. We'll be happy to rebuild the main board! Oh, and you'll be able to restore that condensor fan to normal operation.




#248549 KSS Builtin Kitchenaid Fridge Control Dropping faster than flies thru a CowVac

Posted by fixyourboard on 15 February 2013 - 02:38 PM

Also, we see a high percentage of this board fail for the shorted evaporator fan motor problem - the fan definitely takes the board out with it.

 

p/n

2252159
2215946
2221501
2221522
2252071
2252095
2252097
2254739
8201521
 

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSCF2251.JPG



#248489 KSS Builtin Kitchenaid Fridge Control Dropping faster than flies thru a CowVac

Posted by fixyourboard on 14 February 2013 - 01:18 PM

Be very suspicious of this board if you are finding wacky symptoms.

 

Commonly reported:

  Evaporator fan intermittent.

  LED display dims out.

  Inconsistent temperature control.

  Condensor fan won't run.

  Defrost heater won't power up (and bimetal is OK).

 

We are seeing a large number of these boards in for rebuild. They are NLA but we can rebuild for you.

Attached Thumbnails

  • ka_newer.jpg



#215775 Relay for Bosch SHX46A02UC/46

Posted by fixyourboard on 28 November 2011 - 08:01 PM

Good comments. While we replace a LOT of relays, I've found that the blown open solder joint is usually not accompanied by a bad relay. That surprised me at first ... but it makes sense. We often see this problem when the relay contacts are still showing really low resistance (like 8 milli-ohms!). If you do the math, say for a 10 Amp heater, the heat dissipated in the (normal) contact resistance doesn't create a very significant increase in the heat at the soldered pin. Only a few degrees. If the contact resistance goes up by 10X it still doesn't come close to melting the solder at the pin (but there is a heat rise that speeds up the failure mechanism).

I think the cause of this problem is usually a combination of the design of the circuit board pad, the diameter of the hole vs the relay pin, and the parameters set during wave soldering the board at the factory. Sometimes the result is that the cross-sectional area of the solder bridging the gap is not enough to sustain 10 Amps for the lifetime of the machine. I've sawed open relays that came off boards with this problem to inspect the contacts and they usually look good visually, sometimes new looking. Even though the resistance measured out good I wanted to see if they showed visual signs of failing. And usually ... not.

If in doubt, swap out the relay of course. But for a quick fix, your chances are good if you can fix the solder joint. As mentioned above you need a cleaned up surface for sure. The end result needs to be a nice shiny looking solder joint.


#215413 Relay for Bosch SHX46A02UC/46

Posted by fixyourboard on 24 November 2011 - 01:07 PM

Kdog is correct. The relay is not the problem. The problem is the design of the pc board lands that the relay pins are soldered to. In our shop we repair these by using an "eyelet" (rivet) to re-inforce the connection so that it can sustain the high current required by the heater. You can achieve the same result by using a piece of copper wire to surround the relay pin and flow the solder around the wire, pin and pcb land. You need a decent soldering iron for this but it's not difficult if you have good soldering skills.

Happy TG everyone! (ok, kdog, I know yours was last month -- belated!)


#185418 Whirlpool Oven rbd306pdb14

Posted by fixyourboard on 04 February 2011 - 10:23 AM

This is a common control board failure on these units, see: http://www.fixyourbo...6_f2/e6_f2.html

It is on factory backorder but we can rebuild your board for you. Usually 2 day or less turn around in our shop.


#134107 GE Fridge Tool DIY

Posted by fixyourboard on 03 November 2009 - 06:16 AM

You can make this in a few minutes, it might save you a lot of time if you work on GE refrigerators. A quick way to diagnose the most common motherboard-related set of failures we have been seeing.

http://www.fixyourbo...e_testload.html



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