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Member Since 17 Feb 2006
Offline Last Active Today, 02:11 AM

#290832 Stinger Vac not working - would enjoy learning how to fix

Posted by skintdigit on 15 April 2014 - 04:01 AM

Well, it's been a month, but...


Use your meter set for ohms to check for continuity of the power cord with the vacuum unplugged. You'll need to remove the filter bag and disassemble the handle and motor cover to get to the power switch wiring. You should have continuity all the way to the motor on both of the power wires when the switch is on. The switch will be on the "hot" wire, probably black in color. The white wire is the common, and should have continuity to the motor terminals regardless of switch position.


If the above checks out OK, and the motor is silent when plugged in, then you have a fried motor. You may do a voltage check(carefully) to verify your continuity tests, but the unit will move quite a bit if it should start while you are testing disassembled. If the impeller moves a bit or the motor hums a little when powered on, you may have something jammed in the impeller.


I have one of these units. Motor has lasted 6 years in mine, but the impeller nut occasionally works loose and causes a terrible wailing.


#271886 confused at first, then enlightment comes

Posted by skintdigit on 22 October 2013 - 09:42 PM

The fried widget lurks,

Taunting the clever tech-guy.

Knowledge gets the win.

#245346 LG front loader washer...weepy door gasket

Posted by skintdigit on 01 January 2013 - 01:24 PM

Late follow up...


A tighter door closing didn't solve the leakage, checked by pressing inward on the door during cycle. Replacement of the door gasket took care of it. I like the mini blowgun approach for clearing the drainback tube. This one was plugged with paper bits. 


Happy New Year!


Door gasket part link ==> http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2101HW



#244958 Kenmore/Whirlpool dishwasher keeps coming back

Posted by skintdigit on 27 December 2012 - 07:20 PM

Maybe you already checked this, but anytime you disturb the control board and/or console, the thermal bi-metal/fuse seems to blow shortly there-after... maybe from loose disturbed connections...

Will second this observation....replaced a keypad on a Maytag MDB-series unit one month ago and the thermal fuse(well, it's not really a thermal fuse, but that's a different discussion) cut off a couple of days ago. No visible signs of overheating in wiring harness or on control board. 



#243269 Richmond Water Heater Not Heating Properly

Posted by skintdigit on 29 November 2012 - 01:57 AM

Sounds like a toasted element. Like RegUS says, just shut off the power, disconnect one wire from each element and check resistance across the two terminals of each element. You can check for resistance from terminals to the tank(ground) if you wish, but a fried element will show up as "open" (infinite resistance).


You're paying rent, though. Call the apt. manager and ask them to get your water heater working...it's nearly December, man!



#243268 Maytag dishwasher #MDB7749AWB1 - Dead in the water

Posted by skintdigit on 29 November 2012 - 01:41 AM

Thank you all for your comments. I've installed the new console and all is hunky-dory again. Decided to tear the old one apart this evening. Pulled off the outer cover with the labels on it and laid eyeballs on the traces, diodes and clicker buttons underneath. Don't see any burned spots, gaps, or water inside. Must've fried a diode or two(man, they are tiny things). There are a dozen or so test points on the membrane that can be accessed by poking with a sharp ohmmeter probe. Will fiddle with it next couple of days...if I find the failure point, I'll post up a photo or two.





#237331 Whirlpool modular ice maker thermal fuse on black wire in harness

Posted by skintdigit on 04 August 2012 - 04:55 PM

Belated thanks, RegUS. I finally got back to looking into the icemaker no-fill problem. I knew the old IM was fried...no continuity at the thermal fuse on the black wire(toasted thermal fuse) and direct wire jumpering the drive motor after opening up the module showed that it was also fubar. OK, so the drive motor quit and caused the mold heater to remain energized for a period of time until the mold got hot enough to open the thermal fuse. Made sense to me...new icemaker should solve the problem, right?

Not so fast, bunky.

When I installed the new IM and started a harvest cycle all was good, but no water fill at the end of the cycle. :confused:

Resolution is that the solenoid was shorted on the water valve. Resistance of coil is 3 paltry ohms, resistance of neighboring water-in-the door coil is 269 ohms, and I know that one is functional. Verified by attaching IM connector to the door water solenoid and running a harvest cycle. Sure enough, water flowed from the door water dispenser for 7 seconds, give or take.

Revised theory....water valve coil gave up the ghost, which caused the old IM to cycle almost continuouslyI(no water in it to slow the cooling of the mold and the closing of the thermostat). Eventually the drive motor quit and then the mold overheated and cooked the thermal fuse.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it. :moondance:


#221719 About the Appliance Haiku Forum

Posted by skintdigit on 25 January 2012 - 02:29 AM

He who started this,
Strays far, lost in schematics.
Right brain forsaken.

#217292 The DIYer haiku

Posted by skintdigit on 12 December 2011 - 10:08 PM

Verbal founts spring forth,
Inundate the intellect.
Concise is sublime.

#216945 The good and bad of Harbor Freight

Posted by skintdigit on 09 December 2011 - 11:58 PM

Two big keepers from HF for me. I bought a set of Pittsburg(HF brand) socket sets twenty one years ago....I think it was on sale for about $20 for the set of 3 sizes then. Three separate metal cases, one 1/4", one 3/8", and one 1/2" drive. Six point sockets on the larger sets, shallow and deep sockets, and a sturdy breaker bar in the 1/2" set. Have used them a lot since 1990 and have not broken a single part. Good buy for $20.

I also like the HF Bicycle hoist...purchased on sale for $7.00. Everything included for a block and tackle type hoist for light items. Cheap rope, but what do you want for $7.00? Modified ours a bit and use them to hoist kayaks up tight against the garage ceiling for storage:


Attached Files

#216916 Help diagnosing/fixing Hotpoint HE40M1A

Posted by skintdigit on 09 December 2011 - 08:15 PM

Fix the leaks, dry things out, and check continuity and high-limit first, IMO. No need to drain the tank or do any repairs at all until you're sure the tank itself isn't leaking. You can keep a water heater going a long time with occasional parts changes up until the tank rusts through(usually with a small pinhole leak for starters, but not always), then it's time for a new heater. If you're sure the tank is water-tight, then swap a component or two if you need to. If the tank hasn't been serviced in a few years, it has accumulated a lot of sediment in the bottom, so draining and flushing it wouldn't hurt. But getting the drain cock at the bottom of the tank to flow and then getting it to shut again afterwards can be interesting. I haven't ever swapped an element without draining the water to a level below the element in question.


#216912 The DIYer haiku

Posted by skintdigit on 09 December 2011 - 07:43 PM

No bites? OK, here's another:

Oven lies heat-less,
Parts strewn about the kitchen.
Hero makes it work.

A chef with no stove,
Fast food and cold-cuts, he eats.
Then fix-it-now helps.

Cold Shiner Kosmos
Sweats calmly on the coaster.
A day's work is done.

(Shiner Brewery is in Shiner, Texas)

Good day to all,


#216909 Whirpool Microwave MT9160XEQO

Posted by skintdigit on 09 December 2011 - 07:03 PM

Capacitor arrived from RepairClinic today...very pleased that the part got here so quickly. Installed capacitor and new 20amp. ABC main fuse, unplugged magnetron and fired it up. All good. Discharged capacitor, connected mag. leads and hit the go button....all good again.

Thanks to RepairClinic for getting the part to me so quickly and to RegUS and Willie for their assistance.


#216736 Whirpool Microwave MT9160XEQO

Posted by skintdigit on 07 December 2011 - 05:30 PM

I tested the rectifier/diode a couple of days ago using the 9 volt battery method found here:


Then did the same test with a 12v. automotive battery. Next, (microwave is in pieces on kitchen table, so I have to at least APPEAR to be doing something to it), I tested the rectumflyer using the method described in the above video. Here are the results:

Test #1 with a 9 volt battery (battery voltage measured at 8.8 volts DC): forward voltage drop just shy of 3 volts, that is, the meter reads 5.9 volts DC with the diode one way, and 0 volts DC when the polarity is reversed. :thumbsup:

Test #2 with a 12 volt auto battery( batt. voltage at 12.9 vdc): forward voltage drop at around 3 volts again(9.8vdc on meter), with no voltage recorded when diode polarity is reversed. :thumbsup:

Test #3: Just for fun, I tried the 120 volt AC test described in the video posted by Js2060. With the meter set to AC and using a wall receptacle with metered voltage at 123vac, I get a reading of 119vac in one direction and 0vac when the diode is reversed. :down:

So, according to the first two tests, the diode is functional. Test #3, however, indicates that it is not. Can't test it live in the microwave until the new capacitor arrives, so I don't know whether the diode is good or not. The diode does not appear to be burned cracked, discolored, folded, spindled or mutilated in any way.

I have either a bad diode or a bad testing method...not sure which. :kopkrab:

Would anyone care to shed some light on this, maybe testing a known good diode with the 120vac method?


#216708 Help diagnosing/fixing Hotpoint HE40M1A

Posted by skintdigit on 07 December 2011 - 12:21 PM

Water leaking at the cold/in and hot/out fittings on the top of the heater will definitely wet the insulation between the outer jacket and the tank itself and wick it's way down inside the heater outer sheet metal jacket, into the fiberglass batting inside the two covers you've removed. If there is enough water, or if the plastic thermostat covers had been removed, this water could have caused a short in the wiring and tripped a leg of the 2 pole 30 amp. breaker, or gotten into the junction box on the top of the heater and done the same thing. Two pole breakers aren't always easy to notice when just a single leg trips. Turn the breaker off, turn the water supply off, open all covers and junction box lid, check both elements for continuity with one of the element leads disconnected, fix the water leaks, replace faulty elements, let everything dry out, then turn the water supply on FIRST, purge air from the heater by turning on a hot water tap inside the home, and THEN turn the breaker back on. You might also check to see whether the high limit temperature switch engaged. This is a small button on the front face of one of the thermostats....you may have one or two t'stats. Whatever you do, be careful...240 volts are present behind the covers and in the j-box.


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