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skintdigit

Member Since 17 Feb 2006
Offline Last Active Feb 18 2015 03:49 PM

#313010 Touchpad Membrane Tester

Posted by skintdigit on 08 February 2015 - 11:42 PM

Thank you for the helpful link, DA. I'll pick one of those up....while I still can. 

 

Bummer about Radio Shack declaring bankruptcy. Perhaps they'll reorganize and some stores will remain open, but....

 

I've always liked being able to drop in there and pick up an odd switch, fuse, resistor, etc.




#312544 Tight spots video/still camera for inspecting just about anything

Posted by skintdigit on 02 February 2015 - 11:27 AM

I've used it for a dryer vent and many times for "low-impact" location of plumbing and appliance leaks. The video capture feature enables one to visually explain a problem to a customer and to save a video file for later analysis. Mine is cumbersome because of the addition of the 25' drain snake, but a 5 meter unit with a removable guide wire or pole would be the bee's knees.

 

Not sure on tablet adaptability. There are no current draw numbers in the specifications. I'd guess a few hundred milliamps @ 5VDC...software should be pretty simple webcam stuff.  




#312527 Maytag LAW9406AAE/Serial Number begins222

Posted by skintdigit on 02 February 2015 - 12:20 AM

Good for you on rolling up your sleeves and getting into the transmission on this one!  We're still running our old LA8520 with a house full of kids and it never misses a beat. We pulled the seized transmission shaft out, cleaned it up and replaced the tub seal 6 or 8 years ago, and that's the only repair we've needed on the old tank.




#312525 Touchpad Membrane Tester

Posted by skintdigit on 01 February 2015 - 11:55 PM

You need to be good with chopsticks or have a helper to test membrane ribbons, IMO. Get the meter in a readable position, then count the ribbon conductors and carefully place your tester leads on the required spots and hold them(here's where the chopstick skills come in handy), then find and press the appropriate pad on the membrane....all while not breathing. If you breathe, then you move, if you move, your leads slip from the spots on the ribbon...then you get to start over. 

 

If I were checking a lot of ribbons, I'd need to buy or build a reader.




#312513 Tight spots video/still camera for inspecting just about anything

Posted by skintdigit on 01 February 2015 - 08:42 PM

This is not specifically an appliance tool, but I have used it for that purpose occasionally. If you have not seen the usb endoscope cameras coming out of China and for sale on all popular on-line marketplaces, you need to have a look. These use a laptop for power and display with a simple usb connection. They have either 4 or 6 LED's for lighting in the camera head and use a 1/6" CMOS camera mounted on a tiny circuit board and housed in an aluminum tube with lens....all waterproof(as advertised, anyway). I purchased a 10 meter unit for about $20 a year ago just to tinker with it. Was surprised at the clarity of the images and the depth of field in daylight. 

 

I've modified mine for use in plumbing applications by carefully separating the USB plug housing, desoldering the conductors from the board, running the cable inside a 25' metal spring-type sewer snake, then resoldering the wiring and reassembling the plug case. I also built a protective housing from a drilled 1/2" PVC cap with female threads and the bottom part of a 1/2" threaded sprinkler riser. This keeps the camera up off of the bottom of the pipe for better images, and enabled me to add more waterproofing around the camera and lens. The snake allows me to push the camera into plumbing drains and wall spaces. I thought it would last a day or two, but have used it on many occasions in the past year and it's still going strong. For $37 and a few hours brainstorming, it's been well worth the effort. The most worthwhile use for me has been locating plumbing drain breaks under slab foundations.

 

Here's a pic of the business end:

 Steves%20drain%20camera%201-31-14_zpssql




#312494 Manometer

Posted by skintdigit on 01 February 2015 - 04:17 PM

In a pinch, all one needs for this is 4' of clear plastic tubing with an I.D. that will fit snugly over the test port fitting. Form the tubing into a u-shaped loop, add enough water so that there is 10" or so of water in the u-bend, apply the pressure and measure the difference between the water levels in each leg of the loop in inches. This will give you the exact pressure in inches of water column.

 

A digital meter is much simpler to use, though!




#290832 Stinger Vac not working - would enjoy learning how to fix

Posted by skintdigit on 15 April 2014 - 04:01 AM

Well, it's been a month, but...

 

Use your meter set for ohms to check for continuity of the power cord with the vacuum unplugged. You'll need to remove the filter bag and disassemble the handle and motor cover to get to the power switch wiring. You should have continuity all the way to the motor on both of the power wires when the switch is on. The switch will be on the "hot" wire, probably black in color. The white wire is the common, and should have continuity to the motor terminals regardless of switch position.

 

If the above checks out OK, and the motor is silent when plugged in, then you have a fried motor. You may do a voltage check(carefully) to verify your continuity tests, but the unit will move quite a bit if it should start while you are testing disassembled. If the impeller moves a bit or the motor hums a little when powered on, you may have something jammed in the impeller.

 

I have one of these units. Motor has lasted 6 years in mine, but the impeller nut occasionally works loose and causes a terrible wailing.

 




#271886 confused at first, then enlightment comes

Posted by skintdigit on 22 October 2013 - 09:42 PM

The fried widget lurks,

Taunting the clever tech-guy.

Knowledge gets the win.




#245346 LG front loader washer...weepy door gasket

Posted by skintdigit on 01 January 2013 - 01:24 PM

Late follow up...

 

A tighter door closing didn't solve the leakage, checked by pressing inward on the door during cycle. Replacement of the door gasket took care of it. I like the mini blowgun approach for clearing the drainback tube. This one was plugged with paper bits. 

 

Happy New Year!

 

Door gasket part link ==> http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2101HW

 

Door-Boot-Seal-4986ER0004F-00682670.jpg




#244958 Kenmore/Whirlpool dishwasher keeps coming back

Posted by skintdigit on 27 December 2012 - 07:20 PM


Maybe you already checked this, but anytime you disturb the control board and/or console, the thermal bi-metal/fuse seems to blow shortly there-after... maybe from loose disturbed connections...

Will second this observation....replaced a keypad on a Maytag MDB-series unit one month ago and the thermal fuse(well, it's not really a thermal fuse, but that's a different discussion) cut off a couple of days ago. No visible signs of overheating in wiring harness or on control board. 

 

SD




#243269 Richmond Water Heater Not Heating Properly

Posted by skintdigit on 29 November 2012 - 01:57 AM

Sounds like a toasted element. Like RegUS says, just shut off the power, disconnect one wire from each element and check resistance across the two terminals of each element. You can check for resistance from terminals to the tank(ground) if you wish, but a fried element will show up as "open" (infinite resistance).

 

You're paying rent, though. Call the apt. manager and ask them to get your water heater working...it's nearly December, man!

 

SD




#243268 Maytag dishwasher #MDB7749AWB1 - Dead in the water

Posted by skintdigit on 29 November 2012 - 01:41 AM

Thank you all for your comments. I've installed the new console and all is hunky-dory again. Decided to tear the old one apart this evening. Pulled off the outer cover with the labels on it and laid eyeballs on the traces, diodes and clicker buttons underneath. Don't see any burned spots, gaps, or water inside. Must've fried a diode or two(man, they are tiny things). There are a dozen or so test points on the membrane that can be accessed by poking with a sharp ohmmeter probe. Will fiddle with it next couple of days...if I find the failure point, I'll post up a photo or two.

 

Domo,

 

SD




#237331 Whirlpool modular ice maker thermal fuse on black wire in harness

Posted by skintdigit on 04 August 2012 - 04:55 PM

Belated thanks, RegUS. I finally got back to looking into the icemaker no-fill problem. I knew the old IM was fried...no continuity at the thermal fuse on the black wire(toasted thermal fuse) and direct wire jumpering the drive motor after opening up the module showed that it was also fubar. OK, so the drive motor quit and caused the mold heater to remain energized for a period of time until the mold got hot enough to open the thermal fuse. Made sense to me...new icemaker should solve the problem, right?

Not so fast, bunky.

When I installed the new IM and started a harvest cycle all was good, but no water fill at the end of the cycle. :confused:

Resolution is that the solenoid was shorted on the water valve. Resistance of coil is 3 paltry ohms, resistance of neighboring water-in-the door coil is 269 ohms, and I know that one is functional. Verified by attaching IM connector to the door water solenoid and running a harvest cycle. Sure enough, water flowed from the door water dispenser for 7 seconds, give or take.

Revised theory....water valve coil gave up the ghost, which caused the old IM to cycle almost continuouslyI(no water in it to slow the cooling of the mold and the closing of the thermostat). Eventually the drive motor quit and then the mold overheated and cooked the thermal fuse.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it. :moondance:

SD


#221719 About the Appliance Haiku Forum

Posted by skintdigit on 25 January 2012 - 02:29 AM

He who started this,
Strays far, lost in schematics.
Right brain forsaken.


#217292 The DIYer haiku

Posted by skintdigit on 12 December 2011 - 10:08 PM

Verbal founts spring forth,
Inundate the intellect.
Concise is sublime.





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