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Member Since 15 Jun 2009
Offline Last Active Jul 16 2013 11:17 AM

Topics I've Started

'Sup with this cooktop burner valve?

18 May 2013 - 08:56 PM

GE JGP622ER1WH gas cooktop. Second time a burner valve has locked up so now I've got to fix it before I run out of burners altogether. Something's going on...it's not gummed up or it would yield to gentle persuasion: it's locked tight, as in mechanically, and it did so instantly...no period of gummy, ever-more-reluctant operation.


Plus there's an electrical connection to the valve that has no place being there. It's not the ignitor, it's a wire that goes directly to the burner control valve. The ignitor is way off by the burner head and it works fine, or would if the knob would turn.


I'm suspecting a safety feature. (Ain't it always the safety features that cause the grief?) Is there a solenoid in the valve that  locks the shaft if the stove decides it's unhappy that particular day?


No doubt I will figure it out once I get into the electrical box that the valve wires go into but I bet somebody here knows. Enlighten me, please.

Defrost Timer for GE TBX25ZPE

03 November 2010 - 10:44 AM

Uh oh. Just got the part from you guys and put it in, but the numbers are different from the original part and reference two different items on your site.

I searched on repairclinic and got your part number 3414 which is  a Sankyo TMDJX35RB9. Put it in, plug fit the contacts, turning the crank causes fridge to go out of defrost mode and turn on the compressor fine.

However, searching the part number for the OEM part of WR9X419 yields your part number 310900 which is a Sankyo TMDJ830RB9. What the difference? Will the 3414 work ok? Cycle time 10 hrs as indicated on the OEM part?

Thanks for taking a look.

Also do you know the pinouts for the timer? I'd like to hook up the old part to power and verify the motor is shot. The contacts I THINK are the motor windings are open so it looks fried but I'm not 100% sure I've got the right ones identified.

GE (ick!) double wall oven JKP26GOP1BG

18 October 2010 - 08:13 AM

I was gonna tackle this beast awhile back and I'm SURE I recall a post about how to troubleshoot to correctly determine which component is the culprit, but I can't find it now.

Oven was throwing an error code (forgot which one) and shutting off, back before I walked away in disgust some months ago. Now no error codes when I fire it up but it won't reach the set temp (runs about 100F low but turns off the elements anyway when it THINKS it's up to temp).

What's the correct procedure to find out if I'm looking at a thermistor vs a board rebuild? I figured it was a thermistor prob because I used to use self-clean before I saw the error of my sinful ways, and figured I'd cooked the part along with the cast iron skillets I was cleaning (works great but as we know, it's hell on the oven). I got a new thermistor but I don't want to open the bag and lose my chance at a refund if it's not the culprit.

Many thanks!

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