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J5

Member Since 12 Jul 2009
Online Last Active Today, 01:20 PM

#307800 Fisher paykel - dish drawer dd603h - sometimes not draining all the way.

Posted by J5 on 18 November 2014 - 12:27 PM

as mentioned

 

check the bottom of the rotor for damage

 

also check the hole where the rotor goes into , on the bottom there is a piece of plastic moulded as a guide for the water to enter and exit

 

if this is damaged it will also affect the drainage as the water instead if driving out through the drain will just keep spinning around in there

 

 

failing all that a blockage or kinked/squashed drain hose , which is common even on old installations




#304569 Fisher Paykel GWL11 Washer

Posted by J5 on 01 October 2014 - 02:31 AM

Whats wrong with the right one? haha.

 

On a serious note. I agree with brother J5.

 

 

the gf got the right one ;)

 

its been a while but iirc there is a fault code for this sort of issue as well

 

but this machine is coming up with a user fault code since the water level isnt changing so its showing a no tap fault




#304568 Fisherpaykel Dishdrawer (model # tag is unreadable)

Posted by J5 on 01 October 2014 - 02:28 AM

green light turning red will be dd601 or 602 , 603 onwards dont have red lights on the display

 

it is likely to be a siezed rotor and a F2 fault




#304462 Fisher Paykel GWL11 Washer

Posted by J5 on 30 September 2014 - 04:04 AM

i would bet my left nut it was syphoning out

 

you want only 1 inch of drain hose down the drain pipe
 

if the drain hose is down under the water it can syphon out and register faults as described




#303480 Fisher & Paykel DD605 DishDrawer not finishing cycle

Posted by J5 on 17 September 2014 - 02:49 AM

stuck on rinse cycle ?

 

rinse light is a fault of F1 meaning flood fault

 

you prob have a partial blockage of the drain hose

 

i find a lot block where the drain hose exits the cabinet down the bottom and does a 90 degree turn

 

success i have had from pulling the hose buck into the cabinet and straightening the bend and back flushing the drain hose using water and crap flows back , i disconnect the drain hose from the tub and use an old inlet hose connected to the tap and backflush into a bucket and most times cfrap comes out

 

by pulling the hose back into the cabinet you can also confirm there is no kinks , which is what i found on a job the other day on a fairly new machine




#303393 Need tool for removing/installing front load washer tub seals

Posted by J5 on 16 September 2014 - 12:49 AM

only tool you need

 

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#303142 Aquasmart WL80T65CW1 how to clean pump ?

Posted by J5 on 12 September 2014 - 01:26 AM

I always do it from underneath the machine. Works great. Very simple. Never had one of those pumps fail either.

 

changed plenty of them

 

the early control board would blow the fuse on the board for the pump circuit if the pump was blocked up with crap

 

the later boards afaik have a  self resetting fuse on the board

 

as mentioned you can remove the bowl and go from the top or remove the pump from the bottom

 

the pumps will also sieze if not used for a period if time and when you put a new board in you  can test the pump in diagnostics

and its very easy to tell if its blocked or siezed from the noise it makes if you are familiar with what they normally sound like

 

removing the bowl is better since you can find if there is any other things in there and also clean the inner and outer bowl while you are there

 

for new players beware the outside of the inner bowl is sharp when they punnch the holes through from the inside

 

have never needed to replace the oring if you remove the pump from the bottom

 

remove the pump cap taking note of the way it comes off as it wont work if you put it back on the other way

clean the divertor flap and there is also a small hole just near the flapper to ensure its not blocked with lint or sludge

 

i find it easy to clean the outer bowl by taking off the cold hose from the back

running the pump in diagnostics pumping out

using a scrubbing brush and the cold hose you can scrub and hose down while the pump runs pumping all the crap out




#302783 Fisher and Paykel ED56 Dryer Griding Noise

Posted by J5 on 08 September 2014 - 06:43 AM

check the rear bearing  which is in the centre

 

spin the drum by hand without the belt tensioned

 

the fan may also be rubbing

 

i have also seen bad bearings in the motor which when under load make noise




#296777 Fisher Paykel Washer GWL11 US Won't Drain

Posted by J5 on 20 June 2014 - 05:45 PM

ok you dont need ito remove the basket

 

water is getting through the pump

 

turn the machine on at the wall and turn the machine on but dont start anything

 

leave it for 5 mins

 

tilt the machine back against the wall so you can access the divertor valve

 

pull the plug from the wall and touch the divertor with your finger and see if it is warm/hot

 

if it is then you need a new controller

 

if it isnt then you need to pull the pipework off and see if there is a blockage after the diverter out to the drain hose

 

or the lever on the divertor is broken and not switching across




#295565 Fisher & Paykel wa42t26gw1 Stops Before Drainingbeeping wash rinse spin

Posted by J5 on 05 June 2014 - 01:04 AM

pump is either blocked or overheating and shutting off




#295406 Windows 8: Is it Great?

Posted by J5 on 03 June 2014 - 11:45 PM

the word from the tech guys down here is if you are using 7 then going to 8 isnt much advantage

 

and IMHO if its not broke and doing what you want then why change ?




#293234 Fisher & Paykel IWL12 washer - draining very slowly, error message 37 dur...

Posted by J5 on 09 May 2014 - 09:13 PM

your issues is in the divertor area

 

either its blocked there or the divertor is broken

 

i mentioned  previously to go looking in the divertor area




#293001 Repair or Replace Query for Fridge

Posted by J5 on 07 May 2014 - 08:43 PM

sounds like you are getting warm air in , thats the common thing with ice issues

 

check door closing , door seals




#292286 Fisher Paykel DD605I Top drawer not finishing cycle.

Posted by J5 on 29 April 2014 - 10:36 PM

not finishing the cycle could mean anything

 

early 605's had issues with heater plates burning out

 

if it doesnt heat it will come up with an f4 fault and still have water inside

 

if it faults meaning red light on the front you then look inside at the cycle lights and see which ones

are on to determine the fault code

 

in diagnostics you can check the heater plate for heat , i get to the correct diagnostic and then operater the heater

while putting hand on the heater plate to check , beware it gets hot fast and dont leave it on too long or you can pop the

thermal fuse on the plate

 

an easy check then if you have no heat is to swap controller from top to bottom and try again , you can then confirm

controller or heater , save time and money 

 

i usually get 9/10 heater and 1/10 controller




#289243 Fisher Paykel GWL15 error code. Bad control panel?

Posted by J5 on 27 March 2014 - 01:54 PM

your valve may have been faulty , you need to check the resistance , but if you have changed the valves and

still have the issue then yes the board needs replacement

 

they sometimes do just fail







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