Then, since the obvious problem that presents itself is that the dryer won't run, I would do a load analysis on the motor using the schematic. Why the motor? Cuz it ain't runnin'! Always start troubleshooting at the thing that ain't doing it's thang.
Doing a load analysis on the motor, I see that TH1 can kill L1 to the motor.
Then I ax myself, I say, "Self, is that ding-dang control board even trying to send out L1 to the motor?"
And how would I check that?
[cue Jeopardy theme song...]
Again, looking at the schematic, looks like I'd check for 120vac at pin 1 of the motor relay on the main control board.
You see? Theess eess seemple sheet, tovarish. Don't make it compli-frikkin-cated.
Drain pump may be intermittent or thermally sensitive-- where it works one or two times until the motor heats up and then stops. You could check to see if the pump motor is getting 120vac when it should be draining in a normal cycle (but isn't). Leave the pump power wires connected and attach your meter leads. On these Affinity units, without the bottom front access panel, it's probably easiest to do this as control board-- look a the schematic to see how the pump gets power from the board.
We've had the same issue at our house and I've dealt with this at customer's homes. I pull out the range and use some gas leak bubbler solution (your local Ace hardware store) and spray it on all the gas connections. The one that bubbles is your leaker. Just tighten it up using appropriate wrenches, all good One tip: try to avoid using adjustable wrenches on gas connections because they tend to either slip and round out the corners or stick on the fitting making it difficult or annoying to remove Instead, use the correct size open end fixed wrench.
Pins 4-5 is the tacho and that the reading is about what you should see according to the tech sheet. Each of the motor windings should measure 5.3 ohm +/- 7%. If all three windings measured 3 ohms, i would not see a problem. But with the one winding measuring 2 ohms, this is well outside the tolerance allowance from the other two windings that measured at 3 ohms. A 7% deviation from 3 ohms would be 2.8 ohms. So I would say, based on your reported measurements, that you have a bad motor: Part number: AP4368585
In these dark times, when manufacturers give us the barest paucity of tech info to troubleshoot their crappy products, like so many stale crumbs of bread to a vagabond, we must open our Appliantology hymnals and seek light and solace from Samurai's 8th Law of the Prophecy wherein it is written:
Samurai's 8th Law of Appliance Repair: Fix the obvious problems first.
If you have an appliance that you think may have several things wrong with it, you have to break down the problem into smaller component problems and then fix each one. Usually, when you fix the obvious problem first, you find that it was the only problem all along. Other times, you cannot even diagnose the other problems until you've fixed the obvious one(s).
From the 8th Law of the Prophecy, we are blessed with the Samurai Superposition Theorem™ which states:
If you have a complicated problem, break it down into smaller problems and solve each one. By doing so, you will solve the bigger problem.
You have an obvious problem that need to be fixed regardless of whatever else may be going on with the machine: the drain pump is getting voltage but not running. Go ye forth and conquer! Part number: AP4318633
The keypad matrix tells you which ribbon pads to check for resistance. Usually, it's not quite continuity because sometime the resistance can be 50 to 100 ohms when pressed and still be considered good. Should read open when not pressed.
Also, did you notice the nifty little test in the tech sheet for testing the touch panel?
A rapidly blinking LED over one of the keys of the keypad (or sometimes a “dead” keypad/console) indicates one or more key switch lines are stuck or shorted on either the control or the keypad. To determine which one, do the following test:
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Open console and disconnect the keypad ribbon connection from the control (at P1). Put console back together.
3. Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power.
4. With door latched, disconnect and reconnect thermistor or OWI sensor
two times in less than 6 seconds.
5. Wait 10 seconds, then monitor the control’s response to the thermistor:
➔ If the control is OK (no longer sees shor ts with the keypad unplugged), it will respond by running service diagnostics. Listen for it to begin filling after it concludes the 5–10 second display test at the beginning of the service diagnostics cycle. Check and/or replace the keypad if the control responds OK.
➔ If the control is not OK (still sees shor ts with the keypad unplugged), then it will NOT respond to the thermistor at all and will remain off after 10 seconds go by. Make sure the keypad is unplugged for this test. Confirm that all other connections are made, the console and door are reassembled, power is back on, and the door is latched; then repeat steps 1-5 above. If still no response, replace the control.
In my experience, most of the time, the problem is the touch panel on these units. Do you testing and pick your color:
Guys, please check your model numbers BEFORE you post a manual request. It wastes our time searching for literature for bad model numbers, slows down you getting the information, and makes us less responsive to you in future requests. And, believe me, we are making a list and checking it twice of all you swinging' dicks who've been naughty and nice.