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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Member Since 21 Mar 2005
Offline Last Active Today, 09:01 AM

#319130 GE Refrigerator Model #PSB42YSXASS

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on Yesterday, 05:00 PM

Hmm. Interesting. When I typed PSB* all I got was one post and it was on an oven that didn't even start with PSB :) Who knows what I did.

 

That is odd, Bryan-- I just tried it again using PSB* and got 6 results! Here, watch me...

 




#318997 Kenmore Elite DW F665.13969K017 leaks from bottom (hose disconnected?)

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 01 May 2015 - 12:47 PM

You won't be able to tell a difference if they started applying a glue to the hoses where they attach to the sump ports. Other manufacturers are doing this now. Wouldn't surprise me if Whirlpool did this.

Or what if they're using s different rubber compound for the hoses?

Point is: don't think that all revisions are visible. Could be another case of "You don't know what you don't know."


#318989 Kenmore Elite DW F665.13969K017 leaks from bottom (hose disconnected?)

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 01 May 2015 - 09:31 AM

 

On a side note (and the reason for my prior statement):  If this new assembly is not improved, and THAT clamp gives way in two years, won't you have the same liability as if you'd just replaced the clamp?  Or does it then go back to the OEM?  

 

 

Goes back to OEM because I would have installed an OEM assembly and it would have been a failure of the assembly at that point, not my workmanship or deficient clamp job that would have caused the flood.

 

Now, the customer may try to implicate me in the liability firing line, but my insurance company could mount an easy and effective defense especially compared to the situation where I personally applied the hose clamps. 




#318988 Ohms

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 01 May 2015 - 09:27 AM

Country, sounds like you're just starting out and learning some of the basics. While you can learn piecemeal through a forum by asking questions-- and there's certainly nothing wrong with that, please don't misunderstand me-- it's much more efficient and effective to learn in a structured learning environment where you work through a sequence of lessons and quizzes to master the material. 

 

You would really benefit from the Fundamentals of Appliance Repair training course. You will learn basic electricity, electrical measurements, series & parallel circuits, Ohm's Law, reading schematics, using schematics to troubleshoot appliances, and much more. You can see the full course syllabus here: http://mastersamurai...ntals-training/

 

Let me know if you have any questions.




#318982 Kenmore Elite DW F665.13969K017 leaks from bottom (hose disconnected?)

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 01 May 2015 - 08:06 AM

Hmmm...I wonder if they've improved the clamp mechanism in that replacement assembly??   

 

 

There's a new part number for that assembly (the one I posted) which means they made some kind of change to it. They don't always issue a bulletin on what those changes are but we can usually make a good guess based on the problems we see in the field. 

 

Repairs every two years is about average with today's appliances. It's the new normal. I'm lovin' it!

 

 2014-11-20%2022.42.27_zpsxf8dq9ys.gif




#318977 Kenmore Elite DW F665.13969K017 leaks from bottom (hose disconnected?)

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 01 May 2015 - 07:39 AM

It is FAR easier, safer, and much more reliable to replace the entire sump assembly. Part number: W10195600

Part number: W10195600


One and done! Get it fixed right the first time and be done with it. I never screw around with bandaid fixes when there is an assembly available. Maybe DIYers are good with taking that chance. But if I, as a professional, were to do that and one of the clamps let go, get who has to make a claim on his liability insurance? Fuggetaboutit!


#318950 frigidaire affinity washer FAFW3801LW2 code E5E

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 30 April 2015 - 05:02 PM

You have nothing to lose at this point by going ahead and testing it. Get off the computer, get to work, and come back with some real data.




#318945 GE stacked washer gtun275em1ww i don't have ser @ this time

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 30 April 2015 - 04:34 PM

I promise I did a search before I submitted. I missed it.

 

Aint' no thang, bud-row.

 

2014-07-27%2014.20.44_zpsz9n8abfm.jpg




#318934 GE stacked washer gtun275em1ww i don't have ser @ this time

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 30 April 2015 - 03:48 PM

The minimanual is already in the Downloads section: http://appliantology...ter-minimanual/

 

But thanks for trying, Wes!




#318793 WASHER WFW9600TA00 NOT ENOUGH WATER

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 29 April 2015 - 09:23 AM

 

Washer wont get enough water.

 

 

What makes you say it's not getting enough water? Are you getting an error code or is the cycle stopping after filling?




#318782 Neptune dryer mde9700ayw

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 29 April 2015 - 07:39 AM

Is this dryer located in a closet or small space and run with the door closed?




#318778 Jenn-Air JJW3830WS00 F8E1 Low Fan Speed Overspeed

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 29 April 2015 - 07:26 AM

 

*I searched the downloads the service manual and it says I don't have access? 

 

Oh, contraire, Ritz Jenn-Air! You still have access to the Downloads section of the site. Certain forums are restricted. See the help page for instructions on how to search and find manuals: http://appliantology...-appliantology/

 

 

 

 

 

 Has the accessibility changed?  

 

 

Change is a part of life: http://appliantology...with-the-times/

 

 

There's a service bulletin out on this problem:  http://appliantology...ervice-pointer/

 

Read the actual fan speed in diagnostic mode to make sure it's within specs. 

 

If the fan speed is good, replace the UI: Part number: AP5263296

Part number: AP5263296

 

You gotta love it, newish wall oven already needs a $1,000 part! 




#318722 Frigidiare Refrigerator Top Mount Poor Cooling FFHT1514QW0

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 28 April 2015 - 06:53 AM

The compressor's current draw will be a direct result of its horsepower. http://mastersamurai...emperature-gun/

 

But it's even easier in this case because, while the tech sheet doesn't give the horsepower, it does the specs for the compressor's current draw and wattage.  The rated wattage on this little dinky compressor is 140 to 185 watts.

 

P = I * E => I = P / E = 140 w / 120 v = 1.1 amp | 185 w / 120 v = 1.5 a

 

Tech sheet lists run amps at 1.1 to 1.6 amps. That's where they get that number range. 

 

With a current draw of 0.72 amps, the compressor is doing only 86 watts worth of work, that's less than half of it's rated wattage. Watts tells the real story because that's the measure of real work being done. And this compressor ain't workin'! 




#318588 GE ziss420drkss inverter board

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 24 April 2015 - 06:37 PM

Here you be, buddy-ree:  Part number: WR55X11138

Part number: WR55X11138




#318459 LE error code on LG WM2487HWM - Main board failure?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 23 April 2015 - 03:36 PM

I tried hitting the like button on this one to get more like but all it did was unlike and re-like! 

 

All of my service vans carry DiElectric Silicon Grease to use on any refrigerator connector or any low voltage connection that they make.  This may be overkill but I think it's a good security measure over the long term.  I order the Frigidaire grease because I don't know of any other manufacturer that sells it as a part number.

 

Part number: 5304485963

Part number: 5304485963

 

Dielectric grease is also considered synthetic grease.

 

 

Exact same stuff I use!  







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