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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Member Since 21 Mar 2005
Online Last Active Today, 06:50 PM

#326176 Viking cooktop

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 05 August 2015 - 01:07 AM

Model number?

One of the burner switches may have got the wet from overzealous cleaning. Remove knobs and use a hairdryer to dry out the switches.

Also check the outlet to make sure it's not reverse polarized.


#326147 maytag side by side refrigerator mzd2766gew does not cool

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 04 August 2015 - 04:45 PM

Good comment, eva, and definitely not a waste of time.

The schematic would still be helpful in identifying which connections on the board supply the defrost circuit. Then, knowing this and the forced defrost procedure, you can check current draw through the defrost circuit and compare with specs.

If way too low or 0, then replace the defrost heater and/or defrost thermostat. If in spec, replace the ADC board (failing to initiate defrost).


#326135 maytag side by side refrigerator mzd2766gew does not cool

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 04 August 2015 - 01:50 PM

First thing to do is get the schematic. Nothing else happens without that. 

 

Then you'll need your multimeter. 

 

Let us know when you're ready. 




#326105 GE fridge GFE29HSDASS

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 04 August 2015 - 07:31 AM

Yeah I realized last night that I actually have it, I think I even uploaded it here.

 

Uh oh, signs of Wise Old Tech syndrome starting-- you beginning to forget more than most techs ever knew!   :beatnik:  




#326087 GE fridge GFE29HSDASS

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 03 August 2015 - 10:30 PM

David, MSA had a training webinar on these fridges late last year. Should be available in their archives.


#326067 Best Loading meter- your oppinion

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 03 August 2015 - 02:51 PM

I've been using the "Wiggy"- a tried and true instrument that places a large load on the circuit being tested (very low input impedance) and trusted by electricians for a generation: http://amzn.to/1gF7tBC

 

This one also has a solenoid which does a couple things. Gives a palpable vibration and loads the circuit with additional current draw. This is useful in cases where you have a high resistance connection somewhere (rusted, corroded, burned) that measures okay with a DMM and even some higher impedance loading meters. But you can't fool the Wiggy!  Has already saved my azz more than once. 




#325938 Frigidaire FRS6LF7GS4 Intermittently Runs

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 01 August 2015 - 03:14 PM

Where are you making the measurement for the 120vac?

Look at the schematic- the Beta control sends voltage to the compressor start relay on J1-4. It's possible the relay on the Beta control (not the compressor start relay) is sticking. But we can't conclude this until we're clear on where you're measuring voltage.


#325926 Kenmore Range C970.512124 oven dead, EOC check

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 01 August 2015 - 12:25 PM

Yep. Now remove the EOC and flip it over. You may find a burnt solder joint under the DLB relay. If you do, you could mess around with trying to repair the solder joint. I generally don't do this because I have found that, sometimes after this happens, the DC logic portion of the board has also been affected. So I usually just replace the entire board.

Just to add that NOT finding a burnt solder joint does not mean everything is okay. It is just a visible confirmation that you'll sometimes see.


#325860 Are you looking to hire a skilled appliance repair tech in your company?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 31 July 2015 - 05:43 PM

We started a jobs bulletin board at the Samurai Tech Academy (STA) to match up companies looking to hire skilled appliance techs, specifically our students and graduates. It also allows our students and graduates to post their resumes so they can get noticed by appliance repair companies. 

 

We've been getting an increasing number of requests from appliance service companies asking us about hiring opportunities for STA graduates.

 

To the service companies and multi-truck operators: it's free to submit a job listing and to peruse the resumes that have been submitted. Find the skilled techs you need to grow your business today at Master Samurai Tech.

 

This is just another in a long list of reasons to get the right training and experience. Techs who know how to troubleshoot and read schematics are a valuable resource, but a rare one that companies are trying to find. If you're an STA student looking for a good job, submit your resume at MST so potential employers can review them. It's FREE to do!  

 
Let the match-making begin! http://mastersamuraitech.com/jobs/



#325838 Kenmore Range C970.512124 oven dead, EOC check

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 31 July 2015 - 12:10 PM

Look at the schematic and tell me where the pin labelled L1 goes to on the rest of the appliance. Does it go to either of the elements? If not, then do we care about it?

The fact that you're reading 240vac across the DLB relay (L2 IN to OUT) means that you're reading L1 through the elements and so you're measuring L2 to L1 and getting your 240vac. (Presumably you did this measurement with the elements connected and the oven set for either bake or broil).

So, you're reading L1 to L2 across a set of contacts that SHOULD be closed. What does this tell you about those contacts?


#325817 Ge washer wbvh5300k0ww leaking at dispenser

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 31 July 2015 - 07:20 AM

Good update, Brother john! How did you adjust the flow through the valves?


#325811 Kenmore Range C970.512124 oven dead, EOC check

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 31 July 2015 - 06:41 AM

The method for troubleshooting any circuitboard is the same: checking inputs and outputs.

In this case, it couldn't be easier to identify which inputs and outputs you're interested in checking.

Looking at the schematic, the DLB relay supplies L2 to both the bake and broil elements while L1 is switched individually to each element. So the problem really comes down to checking for valid L2 and L1 inputs to the board and checking for valid L1 and L2 outputs from the board to the elements.

Now, I ask you, looking at the simple schematic that you have attached, tell me where you would make your measurements to test for valid L1 and L2 inputs and outputs?


#325719 Amana Fridge Jazz16 board

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 30 July 2015 - 01:07 PM

If you're not sure your existing jazz board is bad, then running diagnostics is a good place to start. Your tech sheet should be located behind the front bottom grill... Unless monkey boy stole it, not uncommon among the moral deficients. The tech sheet has the full procedure. But I show much of it in these videos:





Here's my patent-pending technique for replacing the Jazz board:



What was the original complaint for which you are contemplating replacing the Jazz board?


#325680 GE SxS GSS25LGMFWW

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 30 July 2015 - 07:55 AM

Door solenoid Part number: AP3963333

Part number: AP3963333

 

Door flap Part number: AP3672582

Part number: AP3672582

 

Spring Part number: AP3670155

Part number: AP3670155

 

Door crank Part number: AP3185409

Part number: AP3185409




#325678 Maytag 4000 Series washer (model# MHWE450WW01) - Drum stopped moving

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 30 July 2015 - 07:51 AM

OK, If it passed the wiggle test. It's that those belts usually don't just fall off. See what happens with it, may be fine, time will tell.

 

Brother TAT speaketh heap big wisdom! Belts don't just fall off the pulley on front loaders for no reason. Something affected the geometric plane between the motor pulley and the drum pulley to cause that belt to walk off the pulley.

 

I see a bearing failure in your future.







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