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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Member Since 21 Mar 2005
Online Last Active Today, 03:41 PM

#297524 friggy F/L washer ATF7000ES1

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 29 June 2014 - 06:05 PM

Good stuff here.  Moving this to the Laundry forum so it's available to everyone.  




#297456 Hook up RO system to regular faucet?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 28 June 2014 - 08:11 AM

We have an RO system hooked up in our kitchen.  It's very easy to do and comes as a kit.  You will install a J-faucet which will serve only RO water.  The tank and filter assembly sit underneath the sink.  Here's the exact system we've used for years, includes all the hardware, adapters, and J-faucet:  4 Stage Reverse Osmosis 50 GPD Water Filter System




#297311 Jenn Air SVE47500B code FC and F-

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 June 2014 - 12:32 PM

OMG, not the dreaded FC error code!  AHHHHHH!  269b068dd2.gif

 

 

Awwite, okay... I feel better now.  

 

Let's try this:

 

Ohm J2 harness wires end to end.* If ok, replace power relay board. If blue and orange wires tangled, untangle. If repeat code, use a noise suppressor,  Part number: 12001500

Part number: 12001500




#297305 kenmore washer 110.21302012

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 June 2014 - 12:12 PM

Mr. Samurai has many videos with much info in them.  I try to watch them all.  That way next time I see the appliance he was battling, I can learn from his mistake (hint there are few).

 

Hey, Drew, don't keep us in suspense!  If you see some mistakes in my videos, don't hold out on us-- enlighten us!  Post a comment on the video so we can all learn from it as well.  That's why we're all here!




#297301 Tech Tips: Voltage, Voltage Drop, and Loads

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 June 2014 - 11:20 AM

I had originally posted this at my blog but people were telling me they couldn't find it so I'm reposting it here in the Video Classroom forum. Hopefully it'll be a little easier to find. :smokin:

Understanding the distinction between voltage and voltage drop as well as understanding what a load is in an electric circuit are essential troubleshooting concepts for the professional appliantologist to grasp. In my years of working with other appliance techs online here at Appliantology.org, I have found that many, from rookies to seasoned and battle-hardened techs, do not have a firm grasp of these concepts. As a result, many professional appliance techs (I said many, not most) don't know how to effectively troubleshoot electrical problems in an appliance using a schematic in a coherent and strategic way.

For example, if you don't understand electrical loads and voltage drops, how will you apply the standard troubleshooting technique of load analysis when you're analyzing a schematic to figure out why a motor isn't running? Or, another example, if you don't understand the difference between measuring voltage and measuring a voltage drop, how will you apply the time-honored troubleshooting tactic of half-splitting to locate the missing voltage in a circuit?

The video below is a sample from the Samurai Appliance Tech Boot Camp Fundamentals of Appliance Repair Course and explains the concepts of voltage, voltage drop, and loads:



The Samurai Appliance Tech Boot Camp teaches these and other basic skills of the trade in the Boot Camp's Fundamentals of Appliance Repair course and fills in these and other knowledge gaps that many techs have. Whether you're new to the trade or you've been in it for many years but have never had the opportunity (or time) to gain these fundamental technical skills, you can learn them conveniently online at your schedule and pace right from the comfort of your computer. The lessons are a combination of text, video, and audio and most of the lessons have a quiz at the end to test your knowledge and help you think about and apply the concepts to ensure you have a firm grasp of them. Most of all, it's a fun way to learn!


#297298 Maytag MAH4000AWW

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 June 2014 - 11:06 AM

This is usually a problem with the balance circuit.  Get the tech sheet and locate the balance circuit on the schematic and where it is connected to the machine control board.  

 

The balance circuit consists of three switches in series.  If any one of them is open, the machine control will not let the motor go into spin.  You can do a simple continuity check of the balance circuit from the connection locations on the machine control board.  




#297297 kenmore washing machine 110.92573200

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 June 2014 - 11:04 AM

Is there a way to check or flush that?  

 

Part number: 3363394

Part number: 3363394




#297268 Kenmore Coldspot 106.56576400 icemaker help

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 June 2014 - 06:08 AM

I infer from your post that the ice maker is not making ice on its own?  If that's the case, and given that you've proven that the water inlet valve is good, the indicated repair is to replace the ice maker Part number: 2198597

Part number: 2198597




#297265 K/A Ref KBRA20ERSS

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 June 2014 - 05:22 AM

It's already in the Downloads section, same tech sheet but listed with a different model number:  http://appliantology...and-parts-list/




#297263 Ge stove model number jgbp28sem1ss f2

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 June 2014 - 04:25 AM

Sensor Part number: WB20K10015

Part number: WB20K10015



#297199 GE Arctica model number psi23sgmbkbs

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 25 June 2014 - 09:35 AM

Way to keep on it, Fisher, and thanks for letting us know how it turned out!




#297193 Fixing a Broken Electronic Ice Dispenser in a Kitchenaid Refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 25 June 2014 - 07:05 AM

Here's a recent repair I did on a Kitchenaid KSCS25FVSS01 refrigerator with an ice dispenser that was inop.  This is one of Whirlpool's EER (excessively electronified refrigerator) models.  Take a look at the tech sheet for this model.  The dispenser alone has 4 electronic control boards!  No paddles on this dispenser because, guess what? Even the frikkin ice and water actuators are electronic!  The compressor is a three-phase BLDC motor which uses an inverter board and then there's a main CPU board to control the compressor speed, temperature regulation, and the ice maker.  The ice maker has the infrared level sensing and so uses an emitter and receiver board.  Even the water inlet valve for the ice maker and dispenser has a control board (the so-called "Smart Valve").  

 

The actual dispenser operations are controlled by the Dispenser Core Control board which functions independently of the main CPU board.

 

The ice door is opened and closed by a stepper motor.  When the ice dispenser failed, it did so with door stuck open because the stepper motor stopped in a partially opened state.  The result was that warm air was entering the ice door, melting the ice, and leaving water on the wood floor in front of the fridge, buckling the wood.  

 

In this video, I show an easy technique for troubleshooting these EER models using my patent-pending Substitute and Replicate Method™.  

 

 

One thing I meant to show in the video was testing the pads themselves, which I did on my first trip out there.  It's a simple resistance check-- should read open when not pressed and then some low resistance (200-ish ohms) when the pad is pressed.  The water pad, which was working fine, showed this and the ice pad did not.  

 

Even though the sorry excuse for a schematic diagram in the tech sheet utterly fails to tell you what voltages you're looking for or give specs on the pads, you can reason it out. If you have an electronic pad that closes like a switch when pressed and it's connected to another electronic board, then the principle of operation must be that it shorts out some low DC voltage which initiates some other action from the board.  This is a common control configuration used by many manufacturers, e.g., Samsung initiates their ice maker harvest by grounding out a 5 V DC from the main control board.  

 

 

Part number: AP4264800

Part number: AP4264800




#297087 Kenmore cold spot 106.56549400

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 24 June 2014 - 07:41 AM

The thermistor test only checks the thermistors for open or shorted-- doesn't check for out of calibration/off-spec.  The only spec they give is the one temperature-resistance data point in the tech sheet.  OTOH, Whirlpool thermistors don't fail very often-- I can't remember the last one I had to replace.

 

With most intermittent problems, you usually need to wait until it stays in the failed condition to find the problem.  




#297063 Kitchen Aid gas range KGSA906PSS00 Stop/Cancel button not working

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 23 June 2014 - 07:02 PM

Nice job, Trevor!




#296841 Whirlpool WFW9451XW00 power loss during cycle

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 21 June 2014 - 12:45 PM

The F28 in this model is exactly analogous to the F11 in the older Duets-- both are caused by serial data communications errors between the CCU and MCU.  If the data link between these to boards is interrupted even for an instant, the CCU is programmed to throw this error code.  If the wire harness is the problem, this is very difficult if not impossible to verify with a static ohms test because the interruption tends to occur during the dynamic conditions created while the washer is actually running and moving the wire harness.  

 

A good indication that the wire harness or connections is the problem is if you put the control into diagnostic mode and it executes the diagnostic test cycle without an error.  

 

This video gives some ideas for resolving this problem.  

 

 

If the problem persists, replace the MI3 wire harness before you start replacing boards.  







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