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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Member Since 21 Mar 2005
Online Last Active Today, 08:50 AM

#298146 Refrigeration Training

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 08 July 2014 - 09:30 AM

The way I learned it 20 years ago was read a service manual (Maytag, I think) that had general procedures. Then I got some old refrigerators and dehumidifiers from the town dump and practiced on them in my basement. I was already a good flame welder (steel) so it was just a matter of adjusting my technique for copper. Then getting used to the gizmos and gadgets-- scale, gauges, adapters, vacuum pump, vacuum meter, etc. After about three practice units I was good to go and did my first compressor replacement. All went well.


#298138 Magic chef oven 3468XVA

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 08 July 2014 - 07:58 AM

The ignitor should be on and glowing the entire time the burner is lit.  The ignitor is in series with the bimetal in the gas valve and must pass a minimum current to open the valve.  If the current is marginal, the valve can act flakey and only stay open a short time or not open at all.  

 

gas_range_components-big.jpg

 

 

Video:  http://s160.photobuc...396929.mp4.html

 

You need to measure the current draw through the ignitor and make sure it's above the minimum for the valve's bimetal. Two different ignitor styles, round and square, are used depending on the valve.   The specs are shown in the image above.  




#298137 Samsung Washer WF407ANW/X Drain Pump

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 08 July 2014 - 07:48 AM

Not sure on this one but SOP for replacing the drain pump on all Samsung front load washers is to remove the front panel.  

 

Drain pump Part number: DC31-00054A

Part number: DC31-00054A




#298095 Kenmore Elite HE4 dryer, no power 110.85876400

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 07 July 2014 - 03:56 PM

In the outlet itself. Open the cover and check the wires. May find one burned, out of the retainer, something else. Post a photo!


#298073 Chemical Smell (Nail Polish) in Jenn-Air JCD2295KES Fridge & Freezer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 07 July 2014 - 12:22 PM

The fact that the smells are stronger in the FF cmpt vs the FZ cmpt may only be a result of the FF cmpt being comparatively warmer. But the odor source may still originate in the FZ cmpt since the air is shared between compartments.


#298058 DCS RGS 305 Broiler Inoperative

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 07 July 2014 - 09:25 AM

I'm assuming you replaced the broil ignitor with a new, OEM (DCS branded) ignitor and the correct part number for this model.  

 

If that's the case, then the fact that the new ignitor glows means that the thermostat is working and that the bimetal in the gas valve is closed (electrically).  The only thing left then is that the gas valve is unable to open mechanically.  




#298012 Electrolux EW30EC55GW1 Cooktop will not power on

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 06 July 2014 - 04:56 PM

Sounds like one of the thermal cutoffs in one of the element is open.  Check continuity from User Interface Board connector P4-2 to Relay Board connector J2-2.   See the Tech Sheet for more details.  




#297984 Refrigeration Training

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 06 July 2014 - 10:44 AM

Sealed system repair is best learned by doing. But there will some general instruction on sealed system repair. The focus of the course is on theory of operation and troubleshooting modern refrigeration systems, including inverter compressor and dual evap systems.


#297974 Refrigeration Training

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 06 July 2014 - 07:55 AM

If you can hang on a couple of weeks, the Samurai Tech Academy course in Refrigerator Troubleshooting and Repair will be open for enrollment. Here's the course curriculum: http://appliancetech...raining-course/


#297959 Frigidaire GS23HSZBQ2 leak at main water inlet solenoid

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 05 July 2014 - 05:35 PM

Main hose to water filter is leaking at the main solenoid. Right at or behind the nozzle type fitting on the end of the hose that goes into the solenoid.
 

 

Sounds like a water inlet valve to me Part number: AP5671757

Part number: AP5671757

 

A photo or video of the leak may help clear it up. 




#297868 KTRC22ELBL01 -- 50 VAC at isolation valve

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 04 July 2014 - 09:42 AM

why couldn't you cut it out and splice the wiring together? 

 

 

Because you'll get water in the ice maker every time the dispenser is used, like Willie said.   You could do what you say but you'd have to change the valve configuration to the one I described-- where there are two, independently actuated isolation valves yoked on the same water manifold like on this GE conversion valve Part number: wr49x10043

Part number: wr49x10043




#297829 Frigidaire; FTF530FS1

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 03 July 2014 - 05:23 PM

I've replaced lots of parts on Frikkidaire FL washers but never a timer.  Just don't see them fail.  But maybe yours has been physically abused enough that it really is defective now.  If you're sure the knob and bezel are installed correctly and that you installed new, OEM parts, then replace the timer Part number: AP5184475

Part number: AP5184475




#297823 Whirlpool Washer wtw5300sq0 Noisy

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 03 July 2014 - 05:04 PM

Check the drive coupler Part number: 285753A

Part number: 285753A

 

and agitator dawgs Part number: 285811

Part number: 285811




#297806 Whirlpool refrig KSC23C8EYY02 not cold enough in either section

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 03 July 2014 - 08:59 AM

1.  The evap fan is Step 3 in the diagnostic routine.  Both the step and status numbers are shown in the same two-digit dispenser display and are distinguishes by which LED is illuminated: an amber LED indicates that the step is being displayed and a red LED indicates that the status of that step is being displayed.  It's kludgy but not too bad once you get the hang go it.  You advance to the next step by pressing SW5.  Once in a step, the control will cycle through the different status of that step automatically.  The fact that the evap fans run in normal mode but not in diagnostic mode makes me suspect either an error in interpreting the diagnostic test results (easy to do on this one!) or a flakey control board.  

 

2.  Picture didn't make it through, would like to see it.  Sounds like either defrost failure or an evap fan that isn't running.  

 

3.  I couldn't find a job aid for this model family but the tech sheet is really all you need.  The instructions in the tech sheet are extremely terse but they are accurate-- you just have to read them slowly and carefully and think about they're telling you.  




#297746 Samsung Dishwasher Model DMR77LHS

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 02 July 2014 - 10:30 AM

Check the resistance of the water temperature thermistor, should be about 49 K-ohms at 77 F.







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