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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Member Since 21 Mar 2005
Offline Last Active Today, 04:03 PM

#312251 Whirlpool Washer WTW8800YW0 Leaking

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 28 January 2015 - 08:16 PM

Your model number is listed at the end of the first section. The dispenser you need is Part number: W10187307

Part number: W10187307




#312076 GE washer. Model # gtwn7450d0ww. Can't program UI?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 January 2015 - 08:22 PM

 

Ultimately found the harness  between the IMC inverter and the UI had a kink/break and wouldn't allow communications between boards..

Cut and spliced and all better.

Was able to initiate a test mode and program the model code into the new control. Phew.

 

Great troubleshooting, Jim!   :rocker:  :samurai:

 

Thanks for letting us know what you found! 




#312026 GE washer. Model # gtwn7450d0ww. Can't program UI?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 26 January 2015 - 10:38 AM

Jim, when you say you replaced the main control board, I assume you're referring to the motor inverter board (IMC)? Part number: WH12X20499

Part number: WH12X20499

 

Wow, that's an expensive board! And the UI Logic board is just as expensive: Part number: WH12X20499

Part number: WH12X20499

 

The replacement parts on this washer are priced such to make repair not a viable option to replace. But you're stuck in this cow patty so let's see what we can figure out. Please confirm which board you replaced. 

 

This is a little different variation on the more common variable frequency drive system configuration. The IMC board is "smarter" and does most of the thinking on this one. It's more like a Samsung or LG design that way. Fortunately, both the service manual and minimanual are pretty good.  The schematic in the minimanual even gives pin inputs and outputs so we can actually figure out how these boards interact and troubleshoot like real techs! (As opposed to the some of the lame schematics that Whirlpool has been putting out lately where they leave out all those details-- guess they think we don't need to worry our pretty little heads with all those useless details!) 

 

The IMC (inverter) supplies two voltages to the UI Logic board: 12 and 7.5 VDC. Check for these at the J603 connector on the IMC. Pin 1 is your DC ground and that's your reference. 12 vdc is on pin 4, 7.5 vdc on pin 3. If either of these voltages are missing, the IMC is bad. If both those voltages are there, then replace the UI Logic board. 

 




#311993 GE can't do anything right lately

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 25 January 2015 - 07:44 PM



Just wait until you have to change a ...

 

It's okay, dude-- I'll wait.  2014-11-20%2022.42.27_zpsxf8dq9ys.gif




#311956 GE can't do anything right lately

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 25 January 2015 - 08:19 AM

I've done that UI changeout on one of their "Mission 1" dishwashers before. Total PITA. Tedious. Door was disassembled into several dozen pieces on the kitchen floor. Took about two hours. Amazingly worked when I finished. Problem is that you just can't charge enough for the job to be worth doing.


#311946 Whirlpool fridge ED5GHEXNB01 defrost control board test

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 24 January 2015 - 08:25 PM

 I don't know any other way to test the bi-metal other than cutting the wires then physically removing it then testing with a meter.

 

This is where understanding basic electricity and concepts like electrically equivalent points makes everything so clear and easy. You can test both the bimetal and the heater in one deft little resistance check from P7 to neutral. If it reads open, then one of them is bad. If it reads something low resistance, then it's probably good but I like to verify with a live test because something can check good on ohms and still be bad. 

 

The bimetal also has a special test jack specifically for testing it alone. The jack will have a pink and brown wire on it and receptacles for your probes.  


Carefully remove insulated jumper, heater gets hot until bi-metal opens 

 

Pay attention!  The heater will not continue to get hot after you remove the jumper!  The only thing supplying voltage to the defrost circuit is that jumper.  You are not initiating a defrost algorithm on the board when you install the jumper. 




#311937 Whirlpool fridge ED5GHEXNB01 defrost control board test

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 24 January 2015 - 07:49 PM

Ok, ordered a new control board but just asking if I short across terminal P7 & P6 shouldn't that kick in the defrost mode?

 

If you ran a jumper wire from P6 to P7, you are effectively bypassing the board and hotwiring the defrost system (heater and bimetal). That's a good way to test the defrost system but does not test the board.  In fact, you could do this with the board disconnected by simply jumpering the black and pink wires together. 

 

Line voltage at P7 on the board is probably supplied by an on-board relay, but they don't show us the schematic for the board so we have to assume that's the case. The point is that what happens on the board is a internal event that the manufacturer is not explicitly sharing with us. Jumpering P6 to P7 is an external event to the board and does not prove anything, one way or another, about the board's internal events based on the manufacturer's tech sheet and schematic.  




#311931 Kenmore #253.78822010 Refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 24 January 2015 - 07:07 PM

Yes as you can tell I'm new at this, took Samurai boot camp course and completed it. But with all the great lesson's he has he still can only tell you so much. 

 

Hi Dan. The Fundamentals course-- the course you took-- teaches you the fundamentals of the technology you're working with and how to troubleshoot using schematics. Fundamentals does not cover specific appliances-- that's covered in separate courses, like the Refrigerator Troubleshooting and Repair training course. 

 

I recommend (but do not require) that everyone take the Fundamentals course before taking an appliance-specific course because unless you understand basic electricity, schematics, motors, troubleshooting, and the other things taught in Fundamentals, then you won't benefit as much from the appliance-specific courses. 




#311930 Whirlpool fridge ED5GHEXNB01 defrost control board test

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 24 January 2015 - 07:01 PM

The procedures for getting these boards into test mode can be finicky and frustrating. I usually work these "backwards": If the bimetal and the defrost heater are good, then that only leaves the control board as the problem Part number: AP5326116

Part number: AP5326116

 

If you're thinking about getting into the appliance repair trade, you may want to jumpstart your game by taking some online courses at the Samurai Tech Academy. The two that would benefit you right now are:

 

Fundamentals of Appliance Repair Course 

 

Refrigerator Troubleshooting and Repair

 

Later, when you're getting ready to go full-time, consider taking the business course, Operating a Profitable Appliance Repair Business




#311895 Kenmore Whirlpool 110.29822800 Washer with Load Sense and ATC - No Water

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 24 January 2015 - 11:09 AM

Just updating this topic: changing the load sensor switch fixed the problem. Domo!

 

Part number: AP4501024

Part number: AP4501024




#311889 GE psw23psscss temperature fluctuations

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 24 January 2015 - 08:42 AM

Thermistor Part number: AP3185407

Part number: AP3185407




#311818 Whirlpool Dishwasher DU943PWKQ0 Fills Even When Not Running

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 23 January 2015 - 08:40 AM

Water inlet valve Part number: AP4508166

Part number: AP4508166




#311683 Whirlpool Fridge SxS Gd5dhaxvy04 tech sheet

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 21 January 2015 - 02:51 PM

Freshly squeezed just for you, mah bruvah: http://appliantology...d-wiring-sheet/




#311651 Kenmore Microwave 721.80019400

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 21 January 2015 - 08:43 AM

Moved to the Kitchen forum.


#311644 ZICS36NABRH (2002) - Defrost timer replaced but not advancing

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on 21 January 2015 - 08:05 AM

I'll cinch up the orange wire connection to the timer lug and see what happens.


If you replaced the timer with a new OEM timer, then a bad connection on that neutral spade almost has to be the problem.





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