Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


KurbyMstr

Member Since 17 Aug 2009
Offline Last Active Jul 20 2014 11:04 PM

#290248 Electrolux Dishwasher EIDW6105GS1

Posted by KurbyMstr on 08 April 2014 - 09:55 AM

Here's an update on this dishwasher.  I went ahead and ordered the drain valve first since it was the lower priced item and the one the board was saying was a problem.  I installed it and cycled the unit, same problem.  So I reinstalled the original drain valve and ordered a control board for it, keeping the drain valve in case it was both.  I installed the new control, plugged it in, said a quick prayer, and heard the sweet noise of water entering into the dishwasher.

  In short, it was the control board. 

 




#264859 Ge fridge - temp fluctuating icicles in freezer. PSH25MGWABV

Posted by KurbyMstr on 15 August 2013 - 07:22 PM

I don't mean any disrespect in anyway, but I just went out today on a GE eterna series fridge with very similar complaint.  Customer said ice was melting and refreezing, items on shelf just below ice bucket are thawing but everything else is staying frozen(?huh).  I cleaned the condesor coil-it needed it- and checked the thermistors resistance and voltages.  Nothing showed up as being a problem, but I was thinking it's staying in defrost to long, causing the ice and frozen fruit (strawberries and blueberries) to melt but the ground beef to stay frozen. The frost pattern on evaporator was good.  It had some ice on the side wall.   I was researching it when I found this thread.  I was leaning towards the evap thermistor even though it checked ok, it's less than a board.   I had the customer turn the icemaker back on and see what happens.  I will be returning next week to follow up so I hope either I hear good news or see some more input on this thread.  Thanks!!

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20130815_131726.jpg



#261461 Locked frontload washer

Posted by KurbyMstr on 18 July 2013 - 07:07 PM

I was finally able to get back to this washer today.  It hadn't been plugged in for the last two weeks.  I pulled on the door and found.....still locked.  I ended up removing the lower panel, disconnected the wiring and started breaking the door latch.  After I broke enough off I was able to open the door.  It looked like the plate that the solenoid pulls forward to lock the door had become welded to the solenoid itself.  Glad it was a model with a kick panel to remove.  




#261272 How to determine if the magnetron or transformer is bad.

Posted by KurbyMstr on 16 July 2013 - 07:18 PM

Never had a transformer test good and be bad that I can remember.  The readings you should get are 0.3 - 0.5 ohm on the primary winding, less than 0.1 ohm on the filament winding, and  65 - 120 ohms on the secondary winding.  Primary and Filament to ground should be infinite.  The magnetron tests just as Spannerwrench described.   If everything in the high voltage side checks good then replace the magnetron.  The magnetron is a vacuum tube, and if it looses it's vacuum then it won't work. No way for a tech to test the vacuum so it's a process of elimination.  Every transformer I've replaced had either open windings or was arching from a breakdown in the varnish on the windings.  The latter displays a nice fireworks show while energized.  




#252635 Viking Down Draft Vent

Posted by KurbyMstr on 18 April 2013 - 08:09 PM

Thank you Samurai, I really appreciate this.  I searched while waiting and came up with nothing, so I am very grateful for your work in finding this.




#252541 Today's appliance engineers should be forced to work on the stuff they de...

Posted by KurbyMstr on 17 April 2013 - 08:20 PM

I remember when Whirlpool was showing the factory service techs the working model for variable speed compressors when they were coming.  He said, "Don't stop the evaporator fan for any reason, it will cause the main control board to fail."  Fifteen hands went up at the same time to ask what they were thinking.  We also weren't allowed to touch the model, it was the only one they had and didn't want it broke.




#246058 In home dryer vent

Posted by KurbyMstr on 10 January 2013 - 09:25 PM

Thanks for the feedback everyone.  I know I've been lucky in the times I've had issues with the venting coming apart the customers were friends with plenty of room in the crawl space.  I have run into the homes with all the Reg listed...flexible and plastic in the same home.  The community I live in is small and rural, not a lot of options for people needing work done.  I haven't had any bad problems, yet, and hopefully won't.  Thanks for the words of wisdom.




#246022 Kenmore Washer Model #110.29522800

Posted by KurbyMstr on 10 January 2013 - 10:49 AM

I would verify the voltage at the outlet, check the wiring (insulation) for any problems, and then check the pump and under the spin basket for anything that might be causing a higher amp draw.  I would think the thermal overload on the motor would go before the capacitor, but things happen. 




#245980 Viking VDSC4854GGG 48" DUAL FUEL

Posted by KurbyMstr on 09 January 2013 - 10:26 PM

Are you getting any voltage at the elements themselves?  Do you have a model number so we can take a look at the wiring diagram?




#245978 Garage Refrigerator - RFC these days, like -15 degrees in the A.M.

Posted by KurbyMstr on 09 January 2013 - 10:20 PM

Thanks for this info, read some of the articles listed last week.  But today was a good one.  I went out to a home and found that the customer was saving on gas cost by not running his furnace much.  It was cold enough in the house to keep the refrigerator from cycling on.  This was some good information to have.




#242812 Loctite Freeze and Release

Posted by KurbyMstr on 20 November 2012 - 11:26 AM

Like sh2sh2 said, red is stronger. You only use red when you have no intention of trying to break it loose later. Blue holds well, but is easier to break loose when you need to.


#242763 What do you carry?

Posted by KurbyMstr on 19 November 2012 - 08:41 PM

Over the years I've carried different sizes of toolboxes and I am always thinking if there is something better for me. A few years back I started carrying a "tool organizer". I use the zip up tool bags for my wrenches and other items I want to keep grouped together. I have a little tackle box for screws, wire connectors and such. I've seen guys get away with using a toolbox the size of a pencil box, but for me this has worked the best. I also keep my specialty and larger less used tools in the truck. I've had many compliments about my tool box and how organized it is. Customer's that notice the tech is well organized feel better about what they paid for.

Attached Thumbnails

  • spin_prod_695378801.jpg



#227430 Subzero 532 - Repair a copper line connection to the compressor?

Posted by KurbyMstr on 19 March 2012 - 01:20 PM

One thing to note is that depending on which side of the compressor (side meaning suction or discharge) the tubing is part of will make a big difference. If it's on the dishcharge side you would hear the leak hissing as the compressor is running and it's unmistakable when you here it, plus it leaves oil. If it on the suction side you would not hear anything leak or find anything while it is running. You would have to check that when it is not running and has set for a little while. Replacing the compressor would only be needed if it's damaged from moisture intake, that can happen with a lowside leak. I agree that if it is still freezing items then you problably don't have a leak.
As far as the door gasket, if you put a new one on you want to make sure that there are no gaps when it's closed and make sure the surface it is seating against is clean. You can use lemon oil on the gasket, don't use vaseline or anything that will cause dust to stick.

If a tech comes to repair it, then they will have to evacuate the system, fix wherever a leak is, and recharge the system. I've seen corrosion on connections and a leak not be present. I know sometimes that can happen if flux was used when the joint was soldered and then not cleaned well an you get that. Just my little bit of info.


#221327 kenmore 417.27182703 commercial washer won't spin

Posted by KurbyMstr on 21 January 2012 - 11:04 AM

Thanks to all for the information, and thanks Reg for the tech sheet and repair parts list. I don't believe the other tech that looked at is a member here, or anywhere. The customer was told it could be 3 different things and it would cost an additional $800 to pinpoint the problem. That's ridicoulus.


#212463 Refrig actually blew up!

Posted by KurbyMstr on 26 October 2011 - 09:49 PM

Several years ago I worked for a company that would take evidence given to them by insurance companies and inspect it. The owners were very crooked and wanted everything to point to the manufacturers. I dealt with the items that had burned. One day I was asked to inspect and identify the manufacturer of a refrigerator, I wasn't to inspect it because it had already been done elsewhere. According to the paper work that accompanied the refrigerator the person who inspected it had a PHD in something, and stated that there was a leak in the condesor coil that caused oil and refrigerant to leak out. Due to the leak the compressor cycled on, overheated and tripped the overload. The parting spark from the overload ignited the oil and refrigerant, thus causing the fire. I checked it out, found it was a GE top mount. The supervisor commented about how it made sense what the PHD said. When asked how many leaks in the condensor he had fixed the answer was none. When he asked me my answer was more than I can count, and none had caught fire or leaked that much oil. That with the fact that 134A isn't flammable, and my experience from working for a factory service for years told me that the PHD wasn't correct.

With that long story said, looking at the side by side and comparing to the one in the UK the damage is a lot different and more extensive on the side by side. It looks more "broken" than melted. I would expect some melting and some black sooting from anything electrical or something ignited by a spark. I agree that it was something placed inside and I'm positive the monkey's mouth is open due to what was witnessed.



FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics