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Member Since 27 Sep 2009
Offline Last Active Oct 08 2014 05:34 PM

#305164 I think A/C Capacitor is bad but want to make sure

Posted by ACtechGUY on 08 October 2014 - 05:35 PM

Late to the party on this .... But most capacitors these days are a lot like light bulbs. They will go bad in "X" number of run hours.most of the time less than X . 

If you look up the old GE data on their capacitors, they are rated at 10,000 hours or more.( down here may that  be 8 years or so) 


   The cheaper aftermarket  ones may fail almost instantly from time to time.  


I've never really understood why no supplier carries  GE capacitors( besides oem replacements) . Ge caps last the longest .   


About AMRAD capacitors........ That is the only brand I will carry now on the truck (because they don't break) and I try to get others to follow suit, however, understand that there is, or (was) a Chinese version of that brand.  make sure to look for the american flag on the box!!  AMRAD had many failed caps with the asian  made  units in southern US climates. The Johnstone location in New Orleans where I get them from "tries" not to carry the non us version .....but that don't always happen  .

#295119 Ruud compressor question

Posted by ACtechGUY on 01 June 2014 - 10:15 AM

WOW, at that price plus shipping and refrigerant , you are getting into the relm of replacing the whole unit. It is not worth trying to revive a R-22 system when the fix will be close to $1500.  R-22 is being phased out and as such the price is getting higher every month. They will totally stop manufacturing it in 2020.  It is already over $500 a drum on wholesale level. ( used to be $20 a drum a few years ago). 


If you have access to affordable refrigerant, then go for it. otherwise consider a new 410a system. 

#290808 Issue with Carrier 58MVP 100 14120

Posted by ACtechGUY on 14 April 2014 - 06:23 PM

Considering this furnace has a 20 year warranty on its heat exchanger, I would say NO. it is not at the end of its life. 


Here is the service manual  http://xpedio.carrie...t/58mvp-1sm.pdf


The $1900 price is way out of line. the wholesale cost of a whole  furnace  can be  lower than that . 


Check with carrier for a authorized dealer next time you have a problem.  http://www.carrier.c.../find-a-dealer/     


You had one of two things . A very inexperenced tech or one that was told SELL SELL SELL or both.  



#284264 ID 3 wires and lend advice

Posted by ACtechGUY on 11 February 2014 - 11:08 PM

That is simply bad factory crimps on those connectors. SUPER MINOR repair. 


If you called my company(or any very reputable company) , any one of my guys would simply replace those damaged wires and spade connectors. Get this!! The wires and all  would be included in the $100 service call price. It costs us maybe a whole dollar to fix something like that. we don't charge extra.




Again, very minor repair


Wanna do it yourself ?? go ahead . !!!!   

#1 Go to home depot buy 2 feet of # 10awg wire off the big spool. 

#2 walk down the isle . find a crimp set that has connectors that look like the kind that burnt up( new ones will be yellow or green for that wire size( check auto zone too for just a small box of those conectors. ) 

# 3 go to electrical tool section . buy wire stripper / crimping tool 

# 4 cut 2 peices of wire about the same size as burnt ones. strip off 1/4 inch insulation.  crimp on new connectors 

# 5  pull off old damaged wires . put on new wires . 

# 6 enjoy all 15 kilowatts of heat  :> 




#283094 Troubleshoot Aprilaire 700M Humidifier

Posted by ACtechGUY on 01 February 2014 - 10:11 AM

No, it all comes down to testing correctly. A crap ass meter will do fine for simple tests like this, but you have to test at the correct points. Even my newer guys in the field get confused about how to test (correctly) for 24 volts. 


The most important thing to remember when testing for 24 volts is to NEVER test to ground. YOu must test to the transformer common side. 

Same thing goes for high voltage 240 volt . Never test to ground . it is always line to line. anything else means nothing. 

#283093 rheem furnance repair

Posted by ACtechGUY on 01 February 2014 - 10:01 AM

You have the answer right in front of you.....bad gas valve. If you are really are reading 24 volts at connector going into the gas valve.... then it is the valve.

To verify: unplug connector or both wires from gas valve . put your meter to the plug  or terminals ( not the gas valve) .

Start heater. you will read nothing until the hot surface ignitor has been glowing for 5- 20 seconds.

After the ignitor has been glowing for a bit you will get 24 volts ac to that connector for about 5 seconds, then it will drop off to 0  And the ignitor will also stop glowing. 

This whole prosess will happen 3 times and the furnace will then lock out and not do anything else . 


If this is what is happening , then it is the gas valve. 

#283091 Need installation or wiring diagram

Posted by ACtechGUY on 01 February 2014 - 09:48 AM

If You have a thermostat that has a C terminal Hook that to the blue wire in the heater.



Attached Files

#281538 Honeywell temp thinger on wall

Posted by ACtechGUY on 16 January 2014 - 11:48 PM

"Do these things fail ever? I ask because today, the bedrooms on our top floor are super warm. The temp reads 75! No one has touched the thermostat" 


--Answer:Yes they can get out of calibration or stuck. did you clean the dust buildup off it to take the picture? you may have fixed it by doing that. 


and when I try to make the heater kick on by turning the wheel, it doesn't click.


--Answer: mercury bulb thermostats never click. if they do , you better run :rocketwhore: ......



However I can hear the boiler running. Come to think of it, it might be running constantly!oh my oil!!!!! Any thoughts?


--Answer: It is unlikely that your  round thermostat directly controls your boiler. it probably turns on a fan, or enables a valve to put hot water to radiators or something similar.   your boiler maintains a constant temperature so hot water is available whenever you need it.



#280423 Lennox Heat Pump HP26

Posted by ACtechGUY on 07 January 2014 - 11:28 PM

jumptrout.....  "


HVAC pressure switchws do fail.

If you read your pressures and know the pressures are good and consistent,you can bypass the pressure switch.


Yes pressure switches do fail, but not often . they either work or don't in general.

AND the only  reason to ever bypass a pressure switch is an emergency,  with said pressure switch being replaced  ASAP.  Pressure switches protect the compressor. by removing a pressure switch you may very well be also removing 10 years from the life of the compressor if something tragic should happen like a catastrophic leak or fan motor failure.  :soapbox: 

#279707 Central Heat/Air Fan wont turn on, jumper wire from R to G.. now what?

Posted by ACtechGUY on 01 January 2014 - 09:26 PM

For instance with an older type mercury bulb or snap action thermostat and certain digitals, ..

when you place a jumper on terminals with the thermostat in the circuit , the voltage can feed back thru the thermostat to energize unexpected items.

I have jumped r to y at a furnace and have the condenser as well as heat come on and vice vera. 


Plus as a troubleshooting technique it is so easy to remove the thermostat from the circuit  in order to energize each item on its own . if you jump r - g --- fan comes on . r  to y --cooling comes on . r - w heat comes on . If any of these fails to happen problem lies in the unit not a themostat. You see?

#279387 Bryant gas furnace fan inducer shroud gasket?

Posted by ACtechGUY on 29 December 2013 - 08:41 PM

Most brand new inducer Assembly's these days come either with a fiberglass gasket or a  tube of high heat red silicone . if you do not get either..... Find some hi temp silicone and use that to seal the inducer to the furnace. Unless you would like to wake up dead :>  



#278611 Troubleshoot Aprilaire 700M Humidifier

Posted by ACtechGUY on 22 December 2013 - 12:45 PM

Here is a link to the service manual . you may have to copy and paste. the last link I put in just came back to this site .  http://docs.electron...vice_manual.pdf


I also agree with santa, check your connectors. they can be a big problem

#278529 Troubleshoot Aprilaire 700M Humidifier

Posted by ACtechGUY on 21 December 2013 - 01:47 PM

The simple answer is you do not have 24 volts to the solenoid .  You are reading a sort of phantom feedback without the coil hooked up. With the coil in the circuit you see 0 because you only have one side of the transformer power getting to the coil. 


I see on the install diagram that there may be a current sensing device to sense if the furnace blower motor is running or not.

If you have this device ,  the furnace blower must  be running to allow the power to reach the solenoid. This device may also need adjustment if it is installed .  you will find this device clipped around the black wire that goes to the furnace blower motor.  it is a simple switch that closes when current is passing thru the device. 




#206202 LG Dehumidifier LD450EAL

Posted by ACtechGUY on 22 August 2011 - 09:38 PM

The micro switch assembly, which is located on the drain pan of inside unit, automatically shuts off the dehumidifier when the
bucket is full (note, the Auto Shut Off lights, to indicate bucket must be emptied). The bucket replaces in its place, the unit again
turns itself on.

The diagram indicates that the only shutoff is the microswitch behind the bucket. This implies to me that the weight of a full bucket may cause the bucket to tilt sightly and close the switch.
Check that the unit is on level ground (you don't live on a leaning mountain do you?) , check that there is nothing obstructing the bucket from rocking into the switch.

That is all I got. Good luck

#206118 Lennox AC HS24-651-1P

Posted by ACtechGUY on 21 August 2011 - 06:21 PM

Kudos for trying everything in an effort NOT to buy a new A/C. :thumbsup: It was clear a while back that you were doomed. :whistling:We all have to learn the hard way............... :wallbash:

By the way if you abuse a circuit breaker enough... ...AND YOU DID !!! . It WILL fail..

It is clear that you either live somewhere where it is not REALLY hot or you done got yerself 'A BIG 'OL HOUSE' and this system serves an area that you maybe don't use much.

If neither of the above are true then I suggest investing in the highest SEER A/C you can buy . Electricity is not getting any cheaper from now on.

Good Luck, Because all brands suck or break in one way or another.

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