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Member Since 07 Oct 2009
Offline Last Active Dec 01 2014 07:49 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Amana gas slide in oven ACS3350AS burner igniters are not firing

29 August 2014 - 11:46 AM

Thanks Chat_in_FL

Ill check the ground, me guess is polarity is right as it was working.


In Topic: Amana Oven Control Board 31944801 - how to get replace

27 August 2014 - 08:15 AM

Thanks for the info

After speaking with 

Megan Webb

I have decided to send it to them they have a way to fix the flexi thingy which they call the housing 

"We do repair the control board in your unit and can take care of your problems. No worries.

The cost to restore this control to a like new condition is $160. This rate includes the return shipping & two year warranty. Please include your new overlay.
Right now our turn around in house is about one week. Including a check or money order with the control decreases this time, by allowing us to ship the control as soon as it is ready.
Let me know if I can help you with anything else.
Thank you for your inquiry!


Willie I don't have the plastic tab, it broke into multiple pieces, but your silicone idea got me thinking. You could take a plastic block the size of the space between the touch pad and the button and put silicone around it to keep it in place, that might work. 


Hope mehdron finds this post. I suppose I should set up a new post for the igniter issue. I will follow up when I get the unit back


In Topic: Amana Oven Control Board 31944801 - how to get replace

25 August 2014 - 12:25 PM

Wow some odd voodoo going on in appliantology, I'll explain at the end of the post. Yesterday my stove ignitors stopped firing. This prompted me to log on and look for the problem and finally pull my control board and send it off to 




for repair. It occasionally blanks out, looses the temp and oven goes off. It has not been a big problem as we don't use the oven that much in the summer, but we will this fall. I have been able to use the oven by cutting out the "more" square on the overlay, put everything back together and for now use a pencil eraser to poke the more button. 


What started all this is the black plastic assembly that sits between the flat plastic membrane that you touch, and the control board. This button array, which is a series of 10 plastic flexi thingies. When you touch "more" on the surface mount this engages the button on the control board. My problem is the "more" flexi thingy is broken off. This flexi thingie cover does not appear on the parts diagram nor on the parts list so I assume it is/was available only as part of the oven control panel which of course is no longer available, or I cant find it, if it is.


So I am sending off the control board for repair, but I still need to find this black plastic assembly.


Q1 What the heck is this thing called? And anyone know where to find one, or I will have to fashion some sort of small block of plastic to sit in there and transfer the touch to the board.


Q2 I have to figure what the ignitor problem is, it is not an single ignitor problem, I have dealt with this issue before. None of them fire none of the burner knobs when turned to light work. 


Here is the voodoo. When I logged in this morning and looked at my content to find this post, oddly enough posted yesterday, same day my ignitors went, I can't reply to his post and I don't see a way to contact in his profile...



Posted Yesterday, 02:26 AM


I have the exact same problem as user 'vudutu' has in this thread from last year:



Unfortunately, I cannot post in that thread for some reason. There is a worn plastic part, as he describes, that is broken off, making it difficult to operate the control. I am dubious as to whether a broken off plastic part is repairable, but it seems bizarre to have to throw out the entire range for this one problem. The original part (#31944801) is of course no longer available.


Can someone put me in touch with vudutu so I can find out whether he found a permanent resolution to the problem?


Thank you.



I saw 

In Topic: GE pot scrubber model GSD2220Z04BB is it worth fixing?

10 March 2014 - 03:14 PM

Budget Appliance Repair - I think you might have nailed it. A quick visual inspection of the connectors and wires showed no burnt wires but some browning inside the clear plastic spade connector covers on each of the end connectors on the three wire ENERGY OPTIONS switch ...


BUT when I pulled the connectors of the switches the farthest right male spade connector came out of the switch along with the female wiring harness spade connector. It looks like the switch overheated as it looks melted around where the male spade came out. Can't find the wiring diagram to jump it but I am betting this is it.


On the front upper left of the panel are two rocker switches the ENERGY OPTIONS has three wires, the CYCLES has two wires - switch sets are marked ...


CYCLES {Pot scrubber - Normal wash} - on the left          ENERGY OPTIONS - {off - on} - on the right


Sooo I used the spade that came out and jumped the center connector to the far right connector, threw a couple of quarts of water in the bottom to see if the drain solenoid would kick. Popped a Moerlein OTR ale, started a full cycle and kicked back and read about our local beer revival.




Sure enough , when the timer hit SHORT CYCLE the drain kicked in, so after this full cycle runs I will put a soap pack in and see if it runs and finishes with no soap residue and report back.


Thanks you guys rock.

In Topic: GE pot scrubber model GSD2220Z04BB is it worth fixing?

07 March 2014 - 08:07 AM


I think it is odd that both the drain and inlet solenoid show good continuity and when when hit with 110 direct AND the heat element does not appear to work. 


Chat in FL, I appreciate that insight, trying to convince my wife to replace but she is pushing to fix unless I can find a replacement that matches the off white that matches the rest of the appliances.


Electro doc, continuity checks out, your note about the timers rarely going out is helpful.


Budget Appliance Repair, I will take a close look today at the switch bank, any way to bypass or jump these to test?

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