Jump to content



Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


To get started, click here.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Rackshaw

Member Since 03 Apr 2005
Offline Last Active Sep 17 2011 05:32 PM

Topics I've Started

GE Microwave 2 buttons on touchpad not working - JVM1540DN1WW

10 September 2011 - 01:23 PM

The Start Button and the Add 30 seconds button have stopped working on our Microwave. Not having the start button is kind of a pain, although the Express buttons (1-6) do work, so the Microwave is still useful. There are no error codes displayed. Four questions:

1. Are the two buttons related as far as going through some of the same circuitry?

2. Will a cleaning of the touchpad solve the problem or am I looking at replacing the touchpad?

3. Is there a 3rd party out there that repairs touchpads (something akin to when I had my double oven control panel repaired)?

4. Does anyone know if GE has a recall on this Microwave (an internet search didn't indicate that one had occurred)?

The label on the Microwave indicates that it was manufactured in 2008. Three years (technically two since I got in 2009) seems like a short time for the microwave to go bad. The cost of a new touchpad almost equals the cost of a new microwave.

Thanks in advance for any help.

How do I replace Gas Dryer without existing shut off valve

30 November 2010 - 03:14 PM

I've decided to replace my current gas dryer and in looking at the existing gas line, there doesn't appear to be a shut off valve. From the dryer, there's a piece of flexible gas line that goes under the floor into the basement. In the basement, the flexible line connects directly to an iron gas pipe. The iron gas pipe goes to a junction which appears to have what appears to be three shut off valves, one for the boiler, one for the water heater and one for the dryer. Do I need to (or rather have a licensed plumber) put a shut off valve nearby the dryer or do I need to have the whole dryer connection redone, i.e. run iron pipe up into the laundry room, put in a shut off valve, and run the flexible gas line to the new dryer?

The cost of the new dryer includes installation, but I don't think the installers will do anything if there's not a shut off valve near the dryer.

Maytag DG180(?) gas dryer motor problem?

28 November 2010 - 11:05 AM

My gas dryer stopped working today. I washed my load of laundry like I always do and loaded it into the dryer. When pressing the start button, there's a buzzing sound, instead of the normal drum turning sound. I can turn the drum manually although it is difficult. I opened up the access panel at the bottom front right of the drying and it doesn't appear that the belt is moving when I manually turn the drum.

For the last few weeks, there was a chirping sound coming from the dryer. Sounded like a cricket. It wasn't constant and would go away eventually.

I believe it's time for a new motor for this dryer. The model number on the front panel is DG180 (I double checked it), although repairclinic.com doesn't list that number, it does list DG18C series and DG18F series. Of course the motors are different on the two series.

Two questions. 1. Do I have turn off the gas when replacing the motor?
2. Any ideas how to rectify which model number? FWIW the serial number is 772247 with a GC separated from the serial number.

F1 Error code GE Double Oven JKP45WP2WG

13 September 2010 - 05:11 PM

We rarely use the double oven, mainly for Holidays and when we get into a baking spree. However, last Monday we used the oven to heat up some sandwiches. Six days later on Sunday, the oven started to beep and throw the F1 error code on the LED display on the side where the lower oven's temp would be displayed. At the time the oven hadn't been on for six days. If I touch any button on the keypad, the F1 error and beeping stops for about 25 seconds before returning. When the oven is on, the beep and error code do not occur.

I've opened the control panel revealing a WB27K5047 ERC module. I've tried cleaning the ribbon cable connection, attempted to test the resistance of the temperature sensor, etc. all to no avail.

While I did see a "Tip of the Day" on the Temperature Sensor causing the F1 error code, wouldn't the fact that the oven appears to work correctly when on dismiss that as a problem?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics