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Mikey P

Member Since 14 Jan 2010
Offline Last Active Sep 06 2014 01:48 PM

Topics I've Started

Roper Washer RAS7233JQO agitates, spins, won't drain

01 September 2014 - 04:17 PM

Have a Roper direct driver electric washer, that will agitate, and spin, but won't drain.  Am somewhat familiar with this model of Roper/Whirlpool, so I take it apart.  All hoses clear, pump and motor spin freely.  All fins on pump impeller intact (from what I can tell).


Acts normal, other than the fact that at the end of the entire wash cycle, there's still a FULL tub of sudsy water.


Any ideas????




Mikey P.

Whirlpool Washer #LSR8233EQ1

07 June 2011 - 10:00 AM


I have a Whirlpool direct-drive washer (model # above) that I replaced the motor coupling on yesterday. I've done this repair before with the help of this site (thanks) and recognized the symptoms right away. Sure enough, when I got it apart, one of the plastic pieces was broken.

I did have some trouble putting the new coupler and motor back on-it seemed like a VERY tight fit. I've not had this problem before in the 2-3 times over the last 8 years that I've had to perform this repair. Basically, it took me an hour or so to get the motor and coupler lined up and the spring clips re-attached.

One thing, that I regret, is that I did not pay attention to which of the 2 wires came off of which connector on the motor capacitor. So, thinking that they would be indexed in some way if it did indeed matter, I put them back on without regard to which one went where. This, along with the problem re-attaching the motor, were the only two things that did not go smoothly.

Immediately after starting the 1st load after replacing the coupler, I noticed a burning smell. Additionally, there was also a faint humming noise that I don't think has been there in the past.

Since the washer operated pretty much like normal, with regards to agitation and spin, I'm assuming that the motor and coupling was re-installed correctly-my logic being that if it was incorrect then NOTHING would work.

What would explain the burning smell and the hum that I hear? I don't want to open it back up, unless the possibility exists that my problem is with the capacitor, and that I need to reverse the position of the two wires on it.

I've not run another load of laundry, in fear that I'm going to burn the motor up, or otherwise permanently damage something.

Thanks in advance for all thoughts. I'm starting a new job this Friday, and would like to get this back up and running ASAP.

Mikey P.


28 June 2010 - 10:38 AM

I have a GE dryer, model number above.  The blower wheel is no longer held tightly to the motor shaft and as a result, the blower wheel does not spin when the motor shaft spins, hence no air circulation, plus a rattling noise.  It looks as if the clip BEHIND the blower had broken.  I have harvested a rear clip off of another GE dryer and put it on, then the blower wheel then the front clip and I screwed the front clip into the rear clip via the hole in the blower wheel.  The only problem is, the blower wheel is still free floating on the motor shaft and as the dryer is turned on it wanders forwards and again, slips off of the motor shaft.  I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here.  I've tried using a zip tie on the shaft to hold the blower wheel on, but it only lasts for a few cycles or two.  Can someone tell me what is supposed to keep the front clip, the blower wheel and the rear clip attatched to the motor shaft so that the assembly won't move forward and fall off of the motor shaft?


I'm sure I'm missing something simple here, but I can't figure out what it is.


Thanks in advance.



Mikey P.

Dryer Glide Replacement GE DDE7108VJLAD

30 March 2010 - 11:52 AM

Bought a used dryer (GE DDE7108VLAD)from a co-worker (dirt cheap) that I'm pretty sure needs the drum glides replaced.

Went to the local appliance parts place and they don't have (but can order).  The parts guy behind the counter said, in a hushed voice, "these things are nothing more than felt.  Don't order them from us, go to a craft or fabric store, cut yourself a couple of pieces to fit and put them in place.  He talked as if he knew what he was talking about.  What's wrong with this idea?  Any reason this won't work?  My only concern would be the possible heat generated from friction with the drum causing a fire if the wrong material were used.

All thoughts appreciated.

Hotpoint RF725G0P5BG

30 March 2010 - 09:08 AM

I have a Hotpoint stove, model number RF725G0P5BG, that I would guess goes back to the mid 70's.


The motorized unit inside that locks the door while the oven is in "self-clean" mode has fallen apart along with the wiring associated with it.  As a result, my oven now has a flashing mesage on the LCD display that perpetually says "locked", even though the door isn't locked.  I've removed the motorized locking unit and the wiring that went to and from it (the wiring also disentergrated) The big problem is that the oven won't work now.

I am assuming, that due to the trouble with the locking unit, that the oven "thinks" it's just finished going through the clean cycle and has the door and/or heat disabled while the oven cools down.  The only trouble is, that it's "thought" that it was cooling for months now and I can't use the oven for anything (the stove is still operational).

Replacing the motorized locking unit IS NOT an option (think it cost around $300.00 and I wouldn't put that kind of money into something this old, even if I had it to spend).

What do I do to convince my oven that it's not going through the cool down cycle?  I don't care if the self-cleaning function never works again, I just want to be able to cook with the thing.


All help appreciated.


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