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Member Since 16 Apr 2006
Offline Last Active Apr 03 2014 03:08 PM

Topics I've Started

Asko W620 not completing cycles

18 March 2014 - 07:06 PM

Oh Wise Ones,


I am back on my never ending quest to keep an Asko washer and dryer running.  Today, it’s the washer, an Asko W620.  When I start a load, it fills with water, turns the wash drum, and drains water.  So, the main motor and belt are working, and the water is filling and the water pump emptying.  However, during the wash cycle it gets somehow “hung up” about 20 minutes into the cycle.  After the first time that the water pump drains the unit, it stops.  There is a low humming, and small vibration from the upper, left (when facing unit), rear.  This vibration is not the water pump, which is stronger/louder, and located in the bottom front.  The washer will remain like this until I intervene, and the dial will not advance to the “S” position.  If I slightly advance the cycle dial to the next position, which is 8, it goes into a “short spin” and then stops itself normally.


The vibration noise it makes when it gets hung up is the same noise that I hear when I initially start a wash cycle.  I hear this noise for about 3 to 4 seconds before the water begins filling the washer.


Any help or direction you can give me will be greatly appreciated.


Thank you,



16 July 2012 - 12:45 PM

Oh boy! Here we go again. I replaced the brushes in my Asko W620 washer about 6 months ago with much help from this forum (thank you very much!). After 6 months of fairly light duty washing, the unit stopped working again. Opened it up and the brushes are already worn down to nubs. It is a long story, but the brushes I installed were modified (I had to reverse the tip bevel direction) and were creating a bit of sparking as they wore in. I suspect this caused damage to the commutator, and this in turn hastened the demise of these new brushes.

It is hard to get a good pic of the commutator w/o disassembly, but attached are three pics. One is from 6 moths ago, showing the state of the commutator (I did not attempt any smoothing at that time). And two pics showing the current state of the commutator.

Is it possible to smooth the commutator without buying the special $130 stone?
http://www.repaircli...8801196/1063578 Sand paper or emery cloth of a certain grit?

In addition, the quick wear of the brushes produced a lot of graphite dust. Attached are pics of the motor windings 6 months ago (clean), and now (covered in dust). Could this cause problems with the motor? I am guessing yes.

As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

ASKO T700 Dryer Wont Start

08 June 2012 - 12:12 PM

Once again, I begin a journey I don’t want to take, to a land I am unfamiliar with. My Asko T700 has once again stopped working. The power is on, but when I try to run a dry cycle it just hums and heats up, the drum does not spin. Opened up the lower panel, the blower motor is clear of lint (I do do my maintenance), the belt seems to be in place and intact. From searching the forums, it sounds like either the motor or start capacitor. Here is a related thread:


Is there anything else this most knowledgeable forum might suggest I check for trouble shooting clues, before I un-stack and tear into the beast? Have pity on a guy with a bad back and tendonitis in both arms.

Washer Wont Work--ASKO W620 Quatro 1200RPM

30 December 2011 - 03:58 PM

Hi all,

I have an ASKO W620 Quatro 1200RPM that is not working. When I try to run a load of wash the water goes in, it sits there for about 1 minute, then the cycle dial advances to the "S" position, indicating a service call. Prior to not working at all, it seemed to be making a grating noise when turning slowly, during the wash cycle, but the spin cycle sounded ok. The drain function works, the wash chamber spins when turned by hand, the water pump seems to be working ok, I checked the pin trap and it is all clear. Is there anything else I can try, short of opening up the unit, before calling for service?


Repairing a dented stainless steel door on a Sub-Zero 561 refrigerator

03 March 2011 - 02:18 PM

Hi all,

I was hoping someone familiar with the construction of a refrigerator door might be able to help me. I have a subz 561/s, with a dent on the stainless steel door. I have talked to the paint-less auto dent repair guys, and they said if they could gain access to the back of the panel with the dent, they could take the dent out. Now, I am not familiar with how the door is put together. I am guessing it might have a dual wall construction like a thermos? If that is the case does anybody know if there is a special gas (argon like dual pane window)that is in between these layers? Would it be possible to cut a hole in the inner panel and repair it afterward? Thanks for your help.


PS I already tried that compressed air/hair dryer trick, didn't work.

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