Just about every time I have had the strong burning smell or even a little smoke, it has always been the H.V. Capacitor burnt up. Can't 100% tell from the diagram, but you should be able to pull back the control panel and get eyes on the cap. Sometimes you can visually see them burnt around the top plastic area.
Pull the lower cover off again and pull the cover over the electrical connection. Remove the wire nuts and reconnect them just to verify you don't have a loose connection that is going in and out every time you wiggle the unit.
Just received my AllDolly today and I must say that is one fine piece of equipment. Precision made, very clean, and very sturdy. I am looking forward to that Bosch hinge job later this week to try it out.
I just wanted to add my two cents worth on this one. I had a Whirlpool with that vent right under the board kicking my butt. It kept throwing error codes for key pad short. Ordered a new control and was called out a few days later for an error code for keypad short. Long story short, the vent was getting so hot during the preheat cycle that it was causing the controller to go wacky. I wound up finding some insulation that I could stick between the controller and the piece of brown cardboard crap they called insulation that was over the vent. It has been about 6 months now and I have not had another call about this range.
Check the dispenser solenoid. These are very bad for the shaft rusting and will not allow the flapper to close. This allows the warm air intrusion and formation of ice. Simple solenoid replacement fixes this one.
I don't see how you could have figured out how to put it in diagnostic mode without the tech sheet! It's only marginally helpful, no cycle times, but does give the key dance for diagnostic mode and water fill level.
There was a service bulletin out on these models where the plastic mold flashing in the float valve would either prevent or interfere with the water fill. After voltage stops to the water inlet valve, put your meter on the pink wire at the float switch to see if it's still there. If so, then you know the float is prematurely interrupting the voltage to the valve.