Following up: the piece I linked to from repairclinic above was the correct piece! It now makes the door close automatically. Of course, with the plastic trim around it cracked, it's hard to say how long it'll last. I used a little aluminum tape to reinforce the cracks, though again: still not sure if it'll hold for very long. Looks like it'll be time to replace the door if the problem returns...
Well, I heard from the customer and the refrig is working fine. Took close to an hour before it started cooling, but it's been fine ever since. As vee8power said above, I'll have to remember to have the cold control turned on before plugging the refrig next time I run into one of these.
Well, the schematic was wrong after all! 3-6 volts DC was what I should have been looking for. Put a new inverter in and the compressor started running as it was supposed to! now that it is running, however, it's not getting cold! All the fans are running, compressor is running...looks like a probable freon leak??!
Unfortunately, we don't do any compressor/freon repairs so it looks like we're going to have to send it along to another company. Sheesh!
Thanks to all who chimed in here, you guys are the best!
Good point, Bryan! I really wish I checked the wires for DC now! In fact I'm probably going to try to get back over there tomorrow to check that again. It would be great if I can fix it without having to track down a replacement board, or send the current one for repair. I was just recalling a time I was checking an auger motor in a Whirlpool refrig with ice in the door, and after checking for 120v to the auger motor and seeing 0, I thought the motor was ok, and we'd have to replace the control board. But then I looked at the motor specs again and realized it was 120v DC! Ever since, I've tried to be mindful of that distinction...it would be funny if it turned out the voltage has been there all along, and I just wasn't 'seeing' it. I will certainly follow up when I get more info...
Well, armed with the knowledge from the video our gracious Samurai posted above, I went back to the customers house to try to get to the bottom of their intermittently-working Duet washer. The info I had originally posted above was slightly off--it was a 3 pin connector (all blue wires) that seemed to be the source of the problem. I found that the conductor in the tiny connector housing had gotten bent out of alignment, which had been causing an intermittent data signal from the CCU. The wire in question was either the +5 or ground for the data signal, which would explain it's erratic behaviour. When run in the drain/spin cycle, it would start working-drain pump would turn on, tub would spin slowly...then it would just cut off. Nothing. Then the pump would start a minute later and shut off suddenly. It would sit for a couple more minutes doing nothing. Then it would start spinning again, slowly, and pump. Then stop. Eventually it got to 9 minutes and sat there until it just shut itself off-display went blank. One clue that made this job much easier to pinpoint was that it had stored an F-28 code--"Serial Communications Error". Either way, I carefully tried to push the connector in the housing back to it's original form and reconnected it. Success! It got through a full drain/spin cycle without a hitch. I told the customer if the problem returns, we'll have to order a new wiring harness.
I learned a couple important things here: When dealing with a strange problem like this, it's absolutely imperative to keep good notes on any information one can gather surrounding the problem. I knew the connector was somehow related to the problem, but I forgot the F-28 code from the last time I checked it. It's also important to be very careful when dealing with these connectors-I'm not sure if the connector got screwed up when I replaced the MCU a few months ago.
Fortunately, our Samurai was able to provide me with info and guidance that was key to getting to the bottom of this issue! Many thanks, Samurai! I learned a lot on this one!
Well, I went back to replace the motherboard and thermistor today. I did test the thermistor in a glass of ice water along with a new thermistor in the same glass. I found them to be approx. 300 ohms apart, though the readings fluctuated a little bit (50-100 ohms). I installed the new thermistor in accordance with the sage advice/teaching of Bob-Tech from one of the above links: soldered the new thermistor to the remaining wire after cutting off the old one, coated with RTV sealant, and then heat-shrink wrapped it. I didn't bother with those little 'bell' connectors that were packaged with the thermistor based on what I've read here. I also installed the new motherboard and was a bit surprised to be greeted by the message PE0 000 on the displays inside the refrigerator section! I was not aware, but these boards have to be programmed just like the JAZZ boards on other models. Fortunately I stumbled upon the correct procedure to get into programming mode and typed in the code that was on the model/serial tag on the right wall of the refrig section. (the motherboard did not include any tech sheet!!! ) For those interested, here's what worked for me:
1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad DoorAlarm .
2. Press and hold Freezer Temperature Down Keypad .
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad DoorAlarm and wait 3 seconds.
4. The control will display PE to indicate the programming mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature Down Keypad once more.
6. The control will display the current Program CODE. This value should be validated with the Program CODE printed on the unit serial plate.
NOTE: If the Program CODE is already correct, the Programming Mode is exited by pressing Door Alarm Keypad for 3 seconds.
7. Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP Keypad or Refrigerator Down Keypad to change the digit value with each key press.
8. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature UP Keypad to select the next digit.
9. Once the desired Program CODE is entered, press and hold the Freezer Temperature DOWN Keypad until the Program CODE begins flashing indicating it has been saved.
The trick here was to do it quickly--push/hold Door Alarm, then push/hold Freezer Temp Down, then release Door Alarm in rapid succession. The PE code will come up and you'll see the decimal that can be moved using the Freezer Temp Up button to set each digit. I tried to access PE mode several times without success until I did the buttons quickly-it worked the first time I did it that way.
I brought the old thermistor home and checked it in a glass of ice water, the reading was around 26,930 ohms after about 10 minutes. I kept my meter hooked up to it and did see the reading get up to about 28,000 after swirling the water around a bit, then as the ice melted in the glass it came down to about 25,300 20 minutes later. The tech sheet I was using for this refrig is not the correct one, I couldn't find the exact one, but this one seemed to be close enough. The thermistor reading according to the sheet I used said 36 deg. F should be 7964 +/- 1%, and 18 deg. 'V' (typo?) 23,345 +/-2%. Does it sound like I was dealing with a bad thermistor? Is the best way to get a good indication of the thermistors health to test the one in question along with a new one in the same glass of water? (my test earlier today was not ideal since I didn't have a second meter and extra alligator clips, I had to keep switching them back and forth between the 2 thermistors)
Anyway, it's been an interesting job--I learned a lot on this one. Thanks for your guidance, fellas!
Well, haven't gotten a call back from the customer in a few days, so I'm assuming the water level switch tube was clogged/gunked up. I'll report back if I have to investigate any further. I'm going to assume replacing the water level switch and drain pump would be the correct repair in this case if the problem persists.
After being enlightened to the dish soap trick for removing the screws from the ignitor/burner assembly, I've been looking forward to trying it for myself. Naturally, no oven jobs came in since my initial post...until today! I came prepared to unleash the power of dish soap on those stubborn screws, and naturally they were being difficult. I applied a small amount of soap on each screw, tightened the screws, then slowly began unscrewing them. Like friggin' butter!!! I was amazed! They came out more easily than any I've encountered before, even when they would cooperate. I've dreaded removing those damn things because it's almost always been a fight. No more! Thanks a million guys! I just can't believe after all this time that the solution was so simple, and within reach sitting there on the counter nearby!
Got over to the customer's house today to install the new 'garage kit', figured I'd post a pic to show the correct way to install it. Instructions were included with the new part. It's very easy to install--take out the control panel from the refrig section, remove the defrost timer, peel the adhesive off the back of the garage kit and stick it to the area on the control panel beneath the defrost timer mounting holes. The part has holes cut out, so lining it up is very easy. The 2 wires from the kit have terminals the cold control plugs into, then the wiring plugs into the cold control. Thanks for all the info, everyone!
P.S. I took the pic before finishing the job, naturally you'll have to re-install the defrost timer and wiring to cold control--forgot to take a 'finished' pic! :wink:
Budget, you're absolutely right! I was thinking the same thing, it just didn't look right to me. I kept thinking, "why would they design this thing to be wrapped around the defrost timer?" Now I know why it didn't look right! It wasn't!