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nibornm

Member Since 06 May 2006
Offline Last Active Apr 30 2011 09:11 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Kenmore Elite Washer 110.28091700

30 April 2011 - 09:08 PM

Well,

The good news is that this was easily fixed with the judicial application of some Vaseline.
The culprit was nothing more than the front left tub support cup and bearing making a horrible clanking noise as the tub reversed direction.
Please see video on Youtube and jpg pic attached.
For avoidance of future noises, Vaseline was applied to the three other support cup/bearing combos.

Warning: since these are nylon or at least a form of hard plastic, DO NOT use any form of oil, which will breakdown the plastic over time.

(JPG image shows noisy support and left spring clip that has to be pushed in with a strong thin piece of metal to allow top to be lifted.)

In Topic: Kenmore Elite Washer 110.28091700

30 April 2011 - 04:42 PM

Update on what I've found:
By holding the right and left side of the outer drum (not the inner basket) and physically rotating it clockwise and then counter-clockwise (about twice per second) I can reproduce the clanking sound.
I have the back metal plate off and the noise is very difficult to pinpoint.
My wife and I think it may be coming from the front left (not the back right).
Now I have to figure out how to remove the top so I can see down the side of the drum.

In Topic: Maytag MAH3000AWW

23 December 2007 - 06:39 PM

R11 is fine.

I was pretty much at the point where I was resigned to buying a new machine control board BUT I looked at page 2-10 of the repair manual where it talks about the inertial unbalance switch.

I decided to check it out.

I found where the two blue leads running from it go to a connector and the cable colour changes to orange.  I disconnected that connector and continuity tested the blue cables (and thus the switch and the circuit was closed.

I reconnected the connector and retested the spin cycle and my flabber was totally ghasted - the machine spun correctly.

Verdict - So far as I can tell the (inertial unbalance switch) connector wasn't fully connected, maybe it shook loose but now the machine is spinning like a top.

I'm so relieved and glad not to be about $200 out of pocket.

The moral: Keep checking the connections.  A similar connector problem caused our Bosch dishwasher to malfunction.

Thank you all for your advice.

It's working - Yippee!!

Oh yes, I almost forgot... I had a nice cool glass of Stone's Ruination IPA to celebrate.


In Topic: Maytag MAH3000AWW

23 December 2007 - 02:58 PM

Hi, I've been experiencing the same problem = will not spin but washes fine.

As recommended by "Trying to help" - I took JP4 off the motor control board and ran the motor test.  It ran for 10 to 15 minutes at about 50 r.p.m.  Seeing that as a successful motor test I pressed STOP.

My question is:

    Now what? :(

Do I have a bad machine control board (again)?

I replaced the machine control about 3 years ago, maybe four, because I had (yes, you guessed it) the dreaded R11/Q6 / wax motor problem.  Yes, we claimed off Maytag but all we got was a $280 coupon... towards the purchase of another Maytag appliance - duh - such a deal!

I'd be really glad to know what you recommend might be wrong or what to test next.

Thanks too, to the great person who scanned and shared the repair manual, which I'm reading for extra ideas.  Yah boo sucks to Maytag - especially for all their non-help !!

The beer fund money is waiting :)

Cheers,

Nibor, a.k.a. the crazy Brit, or was that the looney limey?

 

 



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