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Member Since 25 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 12:55 AM

#305801 LG WM2140CW wont spin out every time

Posted by john63 on 16 October 2014 - 11:01 PM

<<< The other times it drains out mostly but not all and wants to spin but wont, just contines to tumble. >>>




If water does not fully drain due to an intermittently failing Drain Motor...


The WATER LEVEL PRESSURE SENSOR detects water is still in the tub


The Main Board will wait for---essentially a "green light" signal---from the Water Level Sensor


High Speed Spin will be *stalled* until at least most of the water has been drained


One simple way to verify if the Drain Motor is at fault (and not a blockage).


If the washer is NOT on a pedestal---take a small cup---and drain water from the tub using the small black tube at the Pump Clean-Out Strainer located at the lower/left side of the washer


Once all water has stopped draining from the black tube---place an old towel on the floor and remove the pump strainer

Use caution---if there's a blockage in the strainer---several gallons of water may gush out. Be prepared to immediately re-install the strainer.


Once all of the water has been drained---turn on the washer and press the SPIN SPEED button (select high speed spin)


Press the START button and wait until the display reads/shows 9 minutes remaining.


Does it spin?


If there was severe blockage in the Pump Strainer---no need to take further action.


If the Pump Strainer was clear/clean---replace the Drain Motor.

#305651 LG Fridge lfc25770st ER FF issue

Posted by john63 on 14 October 2014 - 09:37 PM

 <<< OK So my LG fridge threw the dreaded ER FF error code. >>>




I didn't know that error codes were considered "dreaded"   :)

They're a fantastic diagnostics tool (think of error codes---as a communication translator between a human and a computer)




<<< So I went and replaced it with a new freezer fan, lg discontinued original and used new version of fan.  Now the fan runs but the fridge won't cool and cycles every 5 minutes or so on and off.   So I tried to put it into testmode and I get 888 888 for an error code on mode 1 and 222 222 on mode 2.>>>




Two things are needed:

1) Full Model Number

2) Serial Number


If the Serial Number is 903KRxxx or lower (March 2009 or older)...


The Freezer Fan Motor was prone to moisture damage.

This in turn---damaged the Main Board (short)


The Main Board part number varies (depending on the full model number)


If the Model Number ends with:







The correct Main Board is (6871JB1423J)


If the Model Number ends with an "/05"-------> (Part number: EBR52304404

Part number: EBR52304404


If the Model Number ends with an "/06"-------> (Part number: EBR52304408

Part number: EBR52304408


#305460 LG Top load washer WT4870CW LE code

Posted by john63 on 11 October 2014 - 10:39 PM

<<< Would I have to go an authorized LG service center to get the update? >>>


<<<  could I remove the main and take to them and not take the whole washer? >>>




The software update *can* be done ---with the Main Board removed


Verify that the Serial Number 401xxx or lower 




<<<  I am curious, how does a unit that needs a software update, work fine for awhile then start acting up after 18 months.>>>




The "LE" error is unrelated to the software update---but may be caused by it (tub damage) 

#305444 Walking out

Posted by john63 on 11 October 2014 - 06:38 PM

Could be bi-polar.


I had a customer once---that said and did *bizarre* things.


This never really bothered me though---as it was clear that she was *not* of her right mind.


It's rare that a customer gets under my skin---those that have---were certainly NOT mentally-challenged (just a**holes)

#305441 LG Top load washer WT4870CW LE code

Posted by john63 on 11 October 2014 - 06:24 PM

The latest S/Bs cover the following models that were built  *before* November 2013 or January 2014 (varies depending on model)








WT5170HW / HV


These models require a software update (with an updated jig)---and the software is indeed within the MAIN BOARD for these rather than in the Display Board.


A special plug for the jig is required---to access the Main Board connection.


For the "LE" error...


Remove the top of the tub (plastic)---and inspect the stainless steel inner basket---for major damage (bulging against outer tub)


Check for clothing as well.



For the above listed models---the STATOR and ROTOR should not be replaced (not deemed necessary).

#305359 kenmore fridge model 79577544600

Posted by john63 on 10 October 2014 - 07:42 PM

<<< this unit was flashing on the display, fridge had lost its temp, compressor was not on, no fans.>>>




Can be caused by static---causes the Main Board to enter "safe mode"


Unplug/re-plug will re-set.


One potential source of static---would be pulling off the laminate coating on the doors (protects finish)---while the refrigerator is plugged in.


A bulletin was published for this particular issue.


Before peeling/pulling off the laminate---unplug the refrigerator.

#305358 lg frontload washer model #WM2010CW

Posted by john63 on 10 October 2014 - 07:36 PM

Built November 2009


Start by replacing the Motor Wire Harness (6877ER1016C)


Part number: ap4440012

Part number: ap4440012


The harness can (and often does) develop internal wire failure---I replace these quite often on LG washers 5 years old or more.


It's an inexpensive insurance against future erratic "LE" errors.

#305311 Disassembling and Converting an LG DLGY Steam Gas Dryer from Natural Gas to P...

Posted by john63 on 10 October 2014 - 10:25 AM

On this LG *steam* dryer---if a customer has a complaint/concern about small amounts of water leaking during a "steam cycle"---this is normal.


These dryers *do not* have a Steam Generator.


A Water Valve is used (behind the dryer)


When the Steam Option is selected---water will enter the drum as a liquid (not a true steam set-up)


If a small load of laundry is in the drum---some water leakage from the edge of the drum can occur.


This is not considered a defect.

#305274 Lg lfx31925st/00 ice fan Question

Posted by john63 on 09 October 2014 - 08:58 PM

<<< I was wondering if a customer was not using the icemaker and had the switch off on the icemaker would the ice fan motor be swiched off also >>>






The Ice Room Fan Motor operation is needed to prevent stored ice---from melting and then leaking onto the floor.




The original french door refrigerators (approx. before 2006)---DID TURN OFF the IR fan motor.


A correction/fix was done (to the Main Board)---to allow fan motor operation when the icemaker has been deactivated/turned off.




This model refrigerator is known for *ice/frost* accumulation at/around the Ice Room Fan Motor ( stops the fan motor operation)


When this occurs---an "ER/IF" error will be triggered/displayed---three hours after the fault is detected.


If the SERIAL NUMBER is "311" or lower (November 2013 or older)---replace the GrilleFan Assembly.


The new GrilleFan Assy has an internal mullion heater added---around the Ice Room Fan Motor---to prevent restricted/blocked fan motor (blade) operation from frost or ice.


LG recommends setting the freezer temperature---on the door/display panel *below* 5F (preferably 0F) to maintain reliable in-the-door icemaker function.

#305248 lg wm3470hwa is giving me a PE code..

Posted by john63 on 09 October 2014 - 06:20 PM

<<<Just bought a refurbished washer from Lowes. It supposedly had the main board replaced>>>


 <<<the first thing it did when powered up was to throw a PE code.>>>




"PE" error = Pressure Sensor Error.


When the washer is *started*---a system test/verification is immediately performed by the Main Board.


Two things that I would inspect/check...


Unplug washer


Remove the top cover of the washer (2 Phillips screws at the rear of the washer---remove only the lower screws)


Slide the top cover rearward about 1 inch and lift off top cover


1) Verify that *every* plug has been connected to the "new" Main Board (you'll need to remove the white plastic cover on the Main Board)

The Main Board is located at the left/top/rear of the washer.


2) Verify that the Water Level Sensor---is still plugged in (This sensor is attached to the Main Board housing---and has a small diameter black tube connected to it)

#305093 Samsung FTQ307NWGX Humming that gets louder

Posted by john63 on 07 October 2014 - 08:52 PM

<<< Customer says it hums when the burners are used, and gets louder as it gets hotter. >>>




Induction Burners (all types/brands)...


A louder-than-usual "transformer hum" sound can be caused by non-flat/smooth bottom cookware.


A smooth-bottom pan will cause minimum noise.


A pan/pot with raised-rings (circles) on the bottom---will cause a pronounced increase in noise.

#304193 LG lds5811bb lower arm not functioning?

Posted by john63 on 25 September 2014 - 11:03 PM

<<< Serial number is 704KWJU00508. >>>




Built March 2007




<<< I removed the front panel and inspected all the wiring as you suggested and it really looks to be in great condition.  No damage at all down there. >>>




Have you taped the wiring and installed cardboard?




<<< The ink stamp build date on the Sump Assembly reads 2007 04. 10. >>>




This is the *flawed* Sump Assy

Must be replaced with the revised/corrected Sump Assy (Part number: AJH31248604

Part number: AJH31248604





<<< I have not been able to locate the Guide Assembly yet... so can't verify the build date. >>>




Looking at the dishwasher from the front---the left side metal panel must be removed to access the GuideAssy

Remove 3 phillips screws from the front of the side-panel and 4 screws at the rear of the panel

Lift panel upward about an inch and remove.




<<< Got all the expected results for each one until I got to number 10 Vario Motor position set to "LOWER" (faint buzz sound)  I heard nothing and the display read n:3A


That was as far as I could get in the test mode, it wouldn't continue to the remaining 3 tests >>>




In Test Mode #10---the Display should read "n:0A"

Test #11 should show "n:0b"

Test #12 "n:0c"


If not---turn off dishwasher and re-enter the Test Mode  (Rinse/Delay/Power buttons)


Once enabled---check the *software version number* on the control panel---it should read: "n:3H/U:02"


If not---then there's a software discrepancy (incorrect)


May need to replace the DISPLAY BOARD:


Part number: ap4440992

Part number: ap4440992

#304131 LG Dryer Mod# DLG2302W won't power on - no display - nothing

Posted by john63 on 25 September 2014 - 09:02 AM

<<< Worked fine with a load the day before, tried to do another load the next day and dryer won't power on. >>>




Replace the Main Board, Willie.


Display Boards on LG dryers are rarely at fault for a "No Power" complaint.


The relay or transformer on the Main Board is usually the culprit.


Cracked boards are very rare---and tend to be caused by very rough handling of the dryer (someone dropped dryer---and control panel was impacted at the Jog Dial)

#304102 LG lds5811bb lower arm not functioning?

Posted by john63 on 25 September 2014 - 01:49 AM

<<< We began noticing that it didn't seem to be cleaning the dishes loaded on the bottom very well.  In addition there is always some dishwashing detergent left in the dispenser at the end of the wash cycle. >>>




The SERIAL NUMBER would be very helpful for diagnostics.


The LDS5811 dishwasher is an older LG design.


Whenever I have a service call on a "5811" model---I always start by asking the customer a few questions about it's history


Has any previous repair been performed on the D/W ? 

Specifically---has the SUMP ASSY or GUIDE ASSY ever been replaced?


If the customer responded that...


"The D/W came with the home when we purchased it---about a year ago".


The very next step would be to remove the DOOR PANEL and inspect the Wire Harness that runs/routes from the bottom of the door---up to the Detergent Dispenser.

I'd carefully inspect all of the wiring for breaks/damage---paying particular attention to the *red* and *yellow* wires (these are for the Vario Motor function)


Repair any damaged wiring---and wrap the entire Wire Harness with electrical tape---from the bottom of the door---up to the Detergent Dispenser Housing. Then cut a small section of cardboard and place it between the Wire harness and the door insulation.

This will isolate the wiring from the sticky tar-like insulation---to prevent future wiring damage (being pulled apart whenever the door is opened/closed).


For the sake of discussion---let's say that I had found a broken *red* wire.

This would resolve the problem/fault with the Vario Motor malfunction---allowing proper lower wash and then middle & upper wash arm functions.


Knowing the history of the "5811"---I would still make an attempt to verify whether or not the SUMP ASSY had been replaced (build date under Wash Motor)

If the SUMP ASSY shows an identical build date to the build date on the Serial Number---then it is the original (6871DD1002B)

These were *flawed* and the typical failure symptoms will be described as...

1) Noisy during wash

2) Poor wash results

3) An intermittent "LE" error (sometimes a permanent "LE" error)


An improved SUMP ASSY (Part number: AJH31248604

Part number: AJH31248604

)---resolved those issues.


Next---I'd verify the build date (ink stamp) on the GUIDE ASSY.

The build date should be *after* November 2010

If the original Guide Assy is on the D/W---then this would need replacing---as the originals were prone to very erratic/mysterious complaints of "Water Leak at-the-Door.

Replacement GUIDE ASSYs are the same part number as the originals (Part number: 4975DD1001A

Part number: 4975DD1001A


Only the build date can verify which is the corrected/improved version.


Although Vario Motors rarely fail---it's worth testing.

This can be done without removing the dishwasher from under the counter.


Start by enabling the TEST MODE...


Press and hold the RINSE and TIME DELAY buttons


Press the POWER button and release all 3 buttons


***NOTE: On some LG dishwashers---the 3 buttons MUST be pressed at the same moment---to enable the Test Mode***


By pressing the TIME DELAY button one at a time we can test the various D/W components




1) Soil Level Sensor test

2) Wash Motor runs

3) Drain Motor runs

4) Water Valve opens

5) Detergent Dispenser Cover opens (wax motor is energized)

6) Heater test (10 seconds)

7) Dry Cycle Fan runs (inside door)

8) Not relevant (n:08 displayed)

9)Thermistor test

10) Vario Motor position set to "LOWER" (faint buzz sound)

11) Vario Motor position set to "UPPER" (buzz sound again)

12) Not important

13) OFF

#303310 Lg dryer model dle5955w

Posted by john63 on 14 September 2014 - 10:33 PM

<<< It keeps beeping with all 4 bars indicating there is a problem with flow >>>


<<< It also heats and drys just fine. any ideas?  >>>




The Air Flow Indicator is primitive


In theory---if there's a partial or full blockage of the exhaust vent---then "bars" will be displayed on the control panel


The problem with this type of "system"---which uses the Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) on the blower housing---is that there is no method/capability of determining whether or not the LINT FILTER is becoming more and more restricted with lint. Or that the laundry load is very large (reduced airflow)


For diagnostics purposes---this "data" is useless---especially in the older LG dryers.


Newer models have improved---possibly by modifying the software parameters. I'm not sure yet.


For your dryer (DLE5955)---ignore the Air Flow Sensor---except perhaps when testing the dryer with an *empty* drum.

Even then---this should not be considered a definitive diagnostics tool

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