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Member Since 25 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Aug 23 2015 05:47 PM

#327389 UE error after changed bearings

Posted by john63 on 23 August 2015 - 05:47 PM

When the tub bearings fail---it is not uncommon to find evidence that indicates water had leaked onto the BALL SENSOR---causing it to malfunction.


Part number: 6501FA2462E

Part number: 6501FA2462E

#326702 LG LFX31925ST-00 fridge/freezer not cooling

Posted by john63 on 13 August 2015 - 01:56 AM

Three way valve re-designed beginning July 2013


Original Main Boards cannot be used with new style three way valve---or vice versa...



Compressors can be destroyed in as few as 3 years---if refrigerator has been improperly installed---in a box-in-the-wall.


Causes scorching-hot compressor running temperatures---and an early death---fairly common since few delivery crews or home owners ever actually read the Installation Manual---which clearly explains the installation requirements (but FAILS to warn WHY it is so imperative)

#326567 LG WT5070CW Won't finish spin - UE error

Posted by john63 on 11 August 2015 - 12:05 AM

Built July 2012.

Press and hold the SOIL LEVEL and SPECIAL USE buttons.

Press the POWER button and release all three buttons

Wait for the lid to lock

Press the START/PAUSE button once

This will show an alternating "t1" and the software ID number.

The original software numbers are any of the following------40/47/54/59/ and 61

The revised/corrected software versions should be------62 or 63

This software is within the MAIN BOARD (Part number: EBR67466109

Part number: EBR67466109

LG authorized techs *usually* carry a "software jig"---that can erase the original software and upload the improved software (at a fraction of the cost).

Replacing the ROTOR is also required (magnet spacing/size is different---although difficult to notice by visual examination)

#326566 LG dishwasher. LDF6920st high pitched noise/whistle, not the blade:(

Posted by john63 on 10 August 2015 - 11:35 PM

LG dishwashers built *after* 2008---did NOT have flawed wash motors.


If the CHOPPER BLADE is not causing the noise---the wash motor has been damaged by water seepage/leak at the motor shaft seal.


Replacing only the Wash Motor *will* cause a repeat failure (Motor Seal not available as a stand-alone component). Repeat failure occurs 3 to 6 months after replacement.


Replacing the SUMP ASSY---ensures a long term successful repair.

#326233 LG LFX31925ST-00 fridge/freezer not cooling

Posted by john63 on 05 August 2015 - 06:49 PM

If SERIAL NUMBER is 306KRxxx or lower (305KR/304KR/303KR etc)...


Correct Main Board part number is---Part number: EBR75234703

Part number: EBR75234703


If *incorrect* Main Board has been installed---symptom/complaint will be "NO COOL"

#325208 LG WT5001CW never finishes spin cycle

Posted by john63 on 23 July 2015 - 11:10 PM

If the SERIAL NUMBER is within the following...


002xxx thru 111xxx  (Feb 2010 thru Nov 2011)


Press and hold the TEMPERATURE and SOIL LEVEL buttons---then press the POWER button and release all 3 buttons


Wait for the top lid to lock (click sound)


Press the START/PAUSE button two times


This is test mode #02


The Control Panel will display/flash a "t2" symbol and then show the *software version* number.


If the software version is any of the following...






Contact LG Customer Service 1-800-243-0000


This washer is covered under a safety recall


Needs software updated to version "130" (or the Display Board can be replaced if the servicer does not have the tool to upload revised software)


Display Board (EBR62267105)


Replacing the ROTOR is recommended 


STATOR should be replaced only if the ROTOR replacement fails to reduce the nuisance "UE" error problem




If this washer is on a ***wood** floor (regardless whether it has tile flooring or similar)---the odds of a successful repair/remedy/correction for the nuisance "UE" error issue----will be very slim.

#324673 Kenmore (LG) 796.41072310 UE error

Posted by john63 on 17 July 2015 - 12:37 AM

Found Service Manual.

Built 2012 or newer---therefore---has VRT software (Vibration Reduction Technology)


<<< It's on a concrete slab and level. The machine doesn't move or vibrate at all.>>>


A "deja vu" symptom.

Can be an indication that---during the spin cycles---the power supply from the Main Board to the Stator is erratic/interrupted.

I'd replace the Motor Wire Harness Part number: 6877ER1016F

Part number: 6877ER1016F

It's rare to have a harness failure in an LG front load washer that is less than 5 years old---unless the harness was flawed during manufacturing.

If I'm wrong---then I've fubar-ed again.

Good Luck:)

#318555 LE error code on LG WM2487HWM - Main board failure?

Posted by john63 on 24 April 2015 - 09:49 AM

Would someone post the LG Service Bulletin here, or if that is not possible,

summarize the contents?  Thanks!   Bob


Soldered connection(s) at the Stator failed (loose)


For reasons unknown to me---LG *does not* recommend repair (re-soldering)

#318297 LE error code on LG WM2487HWM - Main board failure?

Posted by john63 on 21 April 2015 - 10:49 AM

This is a good idea and one that was often recommended by an LG guru that used to frequent these pages. I actually forgot about this until you mentioned it. Go forth and conquer!


Yes---I did recommend using *dielectric* grease until I discovered that dielectric grease is an INSULATOR---not a CONDUCTOR.


I posted a thread awhile back---discussing this oft-misunderstood application/use of dielectric grease.


For an "LE" error---generally the LG washer does *not* have issues with weak/poor plug connections at the STATOR or MAIN BOARD.


It is far more common to have a weak feedback connection at the THERMISTOR on the older LG washers (such as the WM2487).


This triggers an error of "tE" (Thermistor *signal feedback* Error)


For this---using a silver-laced grease/compound at the Thermistor plug connection works exceptionally well (I use Chemtronics silver electrical paste)


On the WM2487 washer---if you are experiencing erratic "LE" errors---and the correct type and amount of laundry detergent is being used (as well as having already replaced the older syle Hall Sensor with the new and "stronger" sensor)---it's time to replace the STATOR.


Older models can have a problem with a degraded/weak connection at the Stator plug (not the Motor Wire Harness plug).


LG Service Bulletin---detailing the cause...



#313635 Samsung DMT800RHS - LE code

Posted by john63 on 18 February 2015 - 03:12 AM



During the cycle---if a leak has been detected by the electrode/leak sensor---the unit will shut-down and trigger an "LE" error (Leak Error).


Not having finished the cycle---the dishes/glasses/silverware will remain dirty.


Inspect the electrodes on the bottom of the dishwasher---part of the plastic bottom cover/plate (must remove d/w from the counter)


Oftentimes---evidence of a leak can be seen/traced to a point of origin---even if the area under the dishwasher is bone-dry when you are examining it.

Look for detergent residue (white stain)


On the other hand---if you find that the bottom plate/cover is wet (and water is still in the electrode "mini-sump")---wipe dry and run a test cycle with the d/w still removed from the counter.


If an "LE" occurs again---remove the bottom cover again and try to trace/locate the origin of the leak.




<<< I had an LG that would lose every drop of water and the customer didn't notice >>>




Seems very unlikely...


Even if the customer complains that the dishes/glassware are still dirty but has not seen/noticed water on the floor---an error *will* occur---indicating a problem/fault.


An LG dishwasher that "loses" water during the fill cycle---will trigger an "E1" error---before attempting to even start the cycle.

During fill--- the Hall Effect Sensor on the Guide Assy---is indicating that water is entering the tub---but the *float* (also part of the Guide Assy) is not rising and actuating a small microswitch.

Within a specific time limit---the Main Board is expecting/waiting for a "signal"---from the switch.

This lack of "confirmation" (signal)---triggers an "E1" error.


If water is "lost" during the wash cycle---an error of "1E" will be displayed.

The dwindling quantity/amount of water will cause the wash motor RPM to accelerate---which is then detected through feedback to the Main Board from the Hall Effect Sensor on the motor.

The dishes will remain dirty.

#307210 LDF7810ST -- LG d/w with poor washing

Posted by john63 on 06 November 2014 - 10:14 PM

<<< Serial # for the unit is 512KW00735 >>>




Built December 2005




<<< Came up on unit with owner giving a complaint about washing problems, saying it was worse in upper rack. 


1)  Partially undissolved detergent left in dispenser.

2)  Top of the inner door was wet wet wet. 

3)  No error codes on the screen or having popped up according to customer. >>>




First thing to do---is ask the customer if any previous repairs/service had been done to the dishwasher since new.


If no---the SUMP ASSY is likely the original and is flawed (poor wash results/noisy)


Revised/improved SUMP ASSY part number is: Part number: AJH31248604

Part number: AJH31248604




<<< There was a wire tie on the main control board (insulated metal, not a zip tie) that showed scorch marks. >>>




Possibly shorted at some point.

However---most LG dishwashers WITH the tar-like insulation/sound deadener---do leave brownish/black oily residue that *appears* to be an indication of a fault/problem (but is not).




<<< LOTS of rust on the frame with a drip trail going all the way up to the vent motor. Looks like there's a split where the plastic vent housing hits the motor >>>




The original Vent/Duct connection to the Blower Housing is prone to seepage type leaks (at the point where the long white plastic tube attaches to the Blower Housing).

Pull off the long tube---add silicone sealer to the Blower Housing and re-attach the duct.

If a seepage-type leak is also found at the hole on the stainless steel door---silicone sealer solves that as well (disconnect the Blower Housing)




<<< I put the machine into "rinse".  It filled up to the door, so it looked like a complete fill. >>>




The correct amount of water entering the tub---should at the ring/indentation on the stainless steel tub (more than that is an overfill condition)


This dishwasher should also be upgraded with a new GUIDE ASSY (Part number: 4975DD1001A

Part number: 4975DD1001A

)---to eliminate a very random/unpredictable leak-at-the-door symptom. The Guide Assy has also been re-designed to eliminate *siphoning* during wash/air sucking sounds during wash/and Heating Element damage


The Drain Hose (Part number: AEM69493801

Part number: AEM69493801

)has also been changed---to fit/work with the new Guide Assy (eliminate siphoning ) and is an improvement over the original (less prone to cracking/splitting/water leaks).




<<< During the cycle, the upper wash arm never moved.  Upper wash arm was clean, no clogged holes. >>>




Although the Vario Motor *can* be at fault---it is a rare failure (new Sump Assy is a sub-assy and comes with a Vario Motor---among other parts/components)


NOTE: On LG dishwashers---the lower wash arm is pressurized with water for about 1.5 minutes---then the middle & upper wash arm for 1.5 mins (alternating)


On this dishwasher---the sound deadening/insulation is a tar-like material.

LG has instructed (and therefore "authorized/allowed"") their technicians to do the following...


1) Inspect all wiring inside the door---from the bottom of the door assy---to the Detergent Dispenser Housing.

Repair any/all wiring as needed


2) Wrap the entire wire harness from the bottom of the door---up to the Detergent Dispenser housing---with electrical tape

Place a small section of cardboard between the wire harness and the tar-like material

Re-install door panel




<<< Also, taking off the kick plate to look at the schematic, there was a scorch mark on the kick plate. >>>




Likely caused by a shorted wire at the Terminal Box---an older problem that was corrected.

Common to see on many dishwashers---usually an installer added wire caps to join the wiring and "tightened" them very *delicately*




<<< in this case it's Joe Friday and just the facts. >>>




The best policy.

Full disclosure---and let the customer decide what to do:)


In this case---we're looking at...


1) Sump Assy (Part number: AJH31248604

Part number: AJH31248604



2) Guide Assy (Part number: 4975DD1001A

Part number: 4975DD1001A



3) Drain Hose (Part number: AEM69493803

Part number: AEM69493803



4) Wiring Repair in door


5) Silicone Sealant for Duct


6) Likely new Door Cables (Part number: 4933DD3001B

Part number: 4933DD3001B

Improved/stronger/quieter. 2 needed


Good luck

#307046 LG WT4870CW UE 22 CODE

Posted by john63 on 03 November 2014 - 10:34 PM

Welcome to the laundry washer equivalent of "flutter" (http://en.wikipedia....niff_Flight_542)


If this washer was built before September 2013...


The Main Board software needs to be updated (contact LG)


It's a free service---even if out of warranty


The authorized LG servicer has the option of using a portable "jig' to erase the origin software---and upload a revised software or replace the Main Board.


The Stator and Rotor are not at fault (nor is the Hall Effect Sensor)


After the Software Update has been performed---inform your servicer that...


There may be a possibility of "Tolerance Stack-up" (I sometimes wonder though---if that's really the case)


To rule out Tolerance Stack-up...


Loosen the Pulsator Bolt (10mm) and re-tighten


Remove the Rotor Bolt (24mm)---then remove all of the Stator Bolts (10mm)---re-install and re-tighten all bolts


Try washer for 3 to 5 loads to verify that the "uE" (not an error code) and especially "UE" (this IS an error code) has significantly diminished in frequency


If not---contact LG again and read them the riot-act for a washer that is not repairable (for at least 70% of the time that these steps are performed)


The top loading washers (all brands) without an agitator---are a nightmare of balance-related nuisance errors and the resulting re-filling/re-pulsation/re-draining of water before attempting to enter the spin cycle---again. Cycle durations run between 2 to 3 hours before the washer "defaults" and terminates the cycle (usually displaying a "UE" error)


If this washer were a passenger airplane---there would've been numerous break-up-in-flight crashes by now.


With that kind of liability (in commercial air travel)---the problem(s) likely would also have been identified/corrected years ago.


Good luck.

#306966 LG WM2101HW noisy, stuck on 9 min. UE error

Posted by john63 on 02 November 2014 - 12:11 PM

The Hall Sensor is not likely to be at fault (I've never had a failure after 2008)


The Rotor looks fine.




<<<The hum, then growl results in an LE error if I let it go long enough.>>>




A failing Motor Wire harness can cause this---broken strands of wire---that are not visible.


When this occurs--- the balance algorithm is also affected---resulting in a "UE" error at times.

The tub will usually spin smoothly at first---and then suddenly become out-of-balance---in addition to growling/grinding noise.




<<<And the rotor would push in when I would put the assembly back on sometimes. I would just push the tub back or pull the shaft back out - is that normal?>>>





#306400 LG WM2501HVA LE error

Posted by john63 on 25 October 2014 - 09:29 PM

<<< The first thing I do is put it into test mode on a spin test and wiggle the wire harness to the stator/hall sensor and it starts spinning, then stops spinning, starts, stops, etc.  Ok, bad harness. >>>




 Yes---that's the symptom of a failing Motor Wire Harness


The STATOR is so robust/durable---that I've never had a failure yet.


Trying to find the Part Number...


Here----> Part number: 6877ER1016F

Part number: 6877ER1016F

#306358 Lg washer wm2455hw

Posted by john63 on 24 October 2014 - 10:05 PM

Good job.


All LG front washers will enter Emergency Drain---if the water level is excessive.


An "FE" error will be triggered as well (and it did not)


The door should also remain locked (and it did not)


Since you already replaced the Water Level Sensor---that left the Main Board as the culprit.








Built July 2008


An FYI...


On LG front load washers built *before* 2010---if the washer is plugged in---the Water Level Sensor always remains *active*

If a water valve fails to fully close after a cycle---and water continues to trickle into the tub---eventually the washer will "wake-up" and initiate Emergency Drain (the door will NOT be locked though until the Main Board "wakes-up")


LG washers built 2010 and newer---this feature has been discontinued

The silent Water Level Sensor "monitoring feature"---uses 40 watts 24/7/365

Uncle Sam *hates* standby-mode power usage




To cancel a cycle in an LG front load washer...


1) Press the POWER button to turn off the washer


2) Turn on washer


3) Press the SPIN SPEED button (if No Spin is selected---this is a 1 minute Drain-Only mode)


4) Press the START button

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