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Member Since 25 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:21 PM

#303310 Lg dryer model dle5955w

Posted by john63 on 14 September 2014 - 10:33 PM

<<< It keeps beeping with all 4 bars indicating there is a problem with flow >>>


<<< It also heats and drys just fine. any ideas?  >>>




The Air Flow Indicator is primitive


In theory---if there's a partial or full blockage of the exhaust vent---then "bars" will be displayed on the control panel


The problem with this type of "system"---which uses the Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) on the blower housing---is that there is no method/capability of determining whether or not the LINT FILTER is becoming more and more restricted with lint. Or that the laundry load is very large (reduced airflow)


For diagnostics purposes---this "data" is useless---especially in the older LG dryers.


Newer models have improved---possibly by modifying the software parameters. I'm not sure yet.


For your dryer (DLE5955)---ignore the Air Flow Sensor---except perhaps when testing the dryer with an *empty* drum.

Even then---this should not be considered a definitive diagnostics tool

#302713 Kenmore 795.71022011 - compressor question

Posted by john63 on 06 September 2014 - 10:59 PM

<<<The LED on inverter board is solid and does not flash when unit is first plugged in. >>>




Does the Inverter Board LED flash---ever?


If the LED flashes 7 times---replace I/Board

#302682 LG WM2101HW Wash Thermistor Part #

Posted by john63 on 06 September 2014 - 10:14 AM

"tE" error: Thermistor (no signal) Error


Usually a poor/weak plug connection at the Thermistor---or a broken wire


Inspect the plug at the Thermistor---if the wires appear undamaged---add Noalox to the plug and re-connect


Test washer

#302629 LG dlg5988w won't keep heat

Posted by john63 on 05 September 2014 - 11:21 AM

<<<When I turn it on the the burner lights up then goes down were it is getting heat and stays on for about 3 to 5 minutes, then goes out and that is it.>>>




This symptom is usually caused by a restricted exhaust vent


How long is the vent?


Is the venting fully visible---or does much of it run through walls/ceilings?




<<< I have to hit the little reset for the burner to start over again>>>




The Thermal Limit---will "trip" when air flow is too slow (Burner Housing temperature spikes)


If this has tripped more than once---replace the Thermal Limiter (becomes "weak" )


Part number: ap4457603

Part number: ap4457603




<<<blew out the tube that goes to the out side and sure that it was clear>>>




The vent needs to be cleaned/cleared with 100% certainty.

No assumptions.

#302090 LG Combo Washer/dryer model WM3677HW not drying

Posted by john63 on 28 August 2014 - 11:22 PM

The error "PE" is *only* triggered by a fault with the Water Level Sensor (no other issue)


Here's what I'd do...


Pull off the black tube at the Sensor


Blow through it---in the direction of the tub


Remove the tube entirely from the washer


Plug/block one end of the tube


Fill water in a sink---place the tube into water and blow through it again---checking for air bubbles (pin hole or wear-through leak)


If a leak was found in the tube---replace it


If not---re-install tube and run a test load of laundry

#302087 LG WM2301h

Posted by john63 on 28 August 2014 - 10:42 PM

<<< I can check the rotor issue, but I am curious as to why I should watch it specifically at the trouble spot (in timing) >>>




Try this...


Remove the Top Cover of the washer (2 screws at the rear)


At the left/rear corner of the washer---there's a white/plastic housing


Attached to the housing---is the Water Level Sensor which has a small black tube on it


Pull off the black tube---and blow into the direction of the tub (to clear a possible partial obstruction)


Re-attach tube and then try this...



Press and hold the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons


Press the POWER button and release all three buttons


Wait until the door locks (single click sound)


Press the START/PAUSE button 3 times (this is a test mode for HIGH SPEED SPIN)


If the motor (stator) is energized/working---the ROTOR and the 17mm bolt should both spin (and also the tub)


If the ROTOR has stripped splines---only the 17mm bolt can be seen/observed spinning (but not the Rotor itself)


If you see a spinning 17mm bolt (but not the Rotor)---replace the Rotor (Part number: 4413ER1003B

Part number: 4413ER1003B





<<< if I open the drain line at the bottom from of the machine during that same time frame, would that take the weight out and induce the proper spin >>>




It won't take "weight out"---but WILL ensure that the water tank/tub is indeed empty.

Try draining any residual water through the pump strainer (lower left corner of washer)---keep plenty of rags handy.

Then repeat the above test mode---to see if the tub spins

If it does---replace the Drain Motor (Part number: 4681EA2001T

Part number: 4681EA2001T


#302011 LG Combo Washer/dryer model WM3677HW not drying

Posted by john63 on 27 August 2014 - 11:42 PM

<<< The filter board was replaced because it had at some point overheated >>>




Normal---not a concern.


Some of the plastic on the Electrical Noise Filter commonly develop a melted/distorted appearance




<<< we then had intermittent tPE errors that we could live with >>>




Clarify that a bit.


"tE" and "PE" errors?.

#302010 LG WM2301h

Posted by john63 on 27 August 2014 - 11:36 PM

<<< 912KWGG00287 >>>




Built December 2009


All LG washers built during 2009 model year---have the newer/re-designed Hall Effect Sensor---which completely eliminates that component as a possible fault.




<<< Everything seems fine with my washer until it gets to the final spin. It seems to get stuck in mode; the timer stops and the tub just lolly-gags back and forth, like it's trying to assess and cannot. It will continue in this way for about 20-25 minutes and then end in an UE code. >>>


<<< The diagnostic showed nothing was wrong. >>>




Check the stainless steel INNER DRUM---by grabbing/gripping the tub at the 6 o'clock location and forcefully try to lift up and push down in quick succession.

If there's a clunking noise and feeling of looseness---this would indicate that the rear tub support has a crack/stress fracture

A major repair


Next---I would remove the rear/back service access panel of the washer---and inspect the ROTOR.

Add several wet towels into the washer drum/close door

Turn on the washer

Press the SPIN SPEED button---select the fastest spin speed

Press the START button

Wait until the Time Remaining displays 9 minutes---and observe the Rotor.

Does the Rotor and the 17mm bolt at the center---rotate at the same speed?

If not---unplug washer and remove the 17mm bolt

Pull off the Rotor and inspect the splines on the Rotor

If the splines are stripped/worn off---replace the Rotor

If the Rotor is not at fault---re-install the Rotor and rear/back access panel


If the Tub and Rotor are fine---replace the Drain Motor

These fail at /around the 5 year mark.

When a Drain Motor becomes weak---the water takes longer to drain than should

When this occurs---oftentimes NO drain error will be triggered ("OE")

Since the Main Board "sees/acknowledges" that the water has drained (at least most of it)---the spin cycle ramp-up sequence is *enabled*

If this occurs---there will still be water in the tub (not always visible in the stainless steel drum)---laundry will be excessively heavier than should be the case

The s/s tub begins a series of SPIN BURSTS to wring out additional water from soaking wet laundry

If there's still water remaining (from a slow Drain Motor)---this creates additional drag/resistance

The Main Board will abort the short bursts of spin---and revert back to DRAIN ONLY mode

Approximately 30 seconds later---the short bursts of spinning will resume

If resistance to tub rotation is still excessive---the M/B again aborts and re-starts

The Time Remaining displayed---will also *stall* (stuck on 9 minutes)

If the Time Remaining falls lower than 9 minutes---and the M/B aborts again---the Time Remaining will usually increase/jump to 13 minutes remaining and begin yet another attempt to drain-then-begin-the-staggered-spin-profile

Eventually the software program will *default* (approximately 7 attempts to balance the load) and end the cycle with either a "UE" error or none at all (soaking wet laundry).

#301516 LG Electric Dryer Model DLE2516W - Will not start

Posted by john63 on 21 August 2014 - 01:08 AM

<<< I push the power button, I can select a cycle, when I hit start, the dryer tries to start and but doesn't.>>>


<<< Previously it would not stop when a cycle ended >>>





The first item to inspect/rule out---would be the 2 very small *springs* on the motor.


If one of those springs is missing---the dryer can exhibit the symptoms that you've described.

#301405 LG DLG2625 Gas Dryer won't stay lit

Posted by john63 on 19 August 2014 - 11:12 PM

Built January 2007




<<<Since I had replaced the control board, display board (another service bulletin) and the flame sensor (all paid for by LG)>>>




Are you an authorized servicer for LG ?


If yes---you'll need to sharpen your diagnostics skills---to avoid changing so many different components to find fault.




<<< Since I had replaced the control board, display board (another service bulletin)>>>




The Main Board can be tested by verifying 90 volts DC to the Gas valves.


Otherwise---it's not necessary to replace the Main Board.


If the Main Board *was* defective---it then becomes important to be aware that---on this particular model dryer (DLG2526)---the Serial Number is needed to order the *correct* replacement Main Board.


For DLG2526 models built *before* September 1, 2007---if the Main Board has failed---BOTH the Main Board and the Display Board *must* be replaced as a set. The software has been changed for the DLG2526 dryers beginning Sept 01, 2007


Alternately---if the Display Board has failed in the DLG2526 dryer built *before* Sept 01, 2007---BOTH boards must be replaced.


For models built *after* Sept 01, 2007---the Main and Displays boards can be replaced independently (both are not needed).


Serial Numbers 708KWxxx and lower: Replace BOTH


Serial Numbers 709KWxxx and higher: Replace only the failed board




<<< I ruled out those as the culprit (this time). Not much left, eh? I replaced the old Kanbishi gas valve assy (that LG said "almost never goes bad" with a new Kanbishi gas valve, and it then lit every single time ignitor glowed.>>>




On this dryer (built Jan 2007)---the original Gas Valve Assy was the STARION brand/type.


It's possible that another servicer had already replaced the gas valve with the currently used---KANBISHI


These Gas Valves are far and away more robust/reliable than the Gas Coils used in many other dryers. Very few fail.




<<< I thanked my customer for their patience, and informed them their drum has an extended (10 yr) warranty, per yet another service bulletin >>>




That likely caused the customer unnecessary concern/worry.


I've replaced perhaps a dozen dryer drums (most were 2005 or older).




<<< Many dryers will have a peep hole in the base by the burner >>>


<<< lg's do not have a peep hole >>>




When servicing another gas dryer---with a "peep hole"---determine the hole diameter/size.


Make a note of the model number and order 20 peep hole plugs (usually white color)


If it becomes necessary to observe an LG gas dryer burner function---drill a hole in the appropriate location.

Install the plug when done.

I've never had a customer object.

#301153 LG Electric Dryer Model DLE2516W - Will not start

Posted by john63 on 16 August 2014 - 10:45 PM

<<< I don't want to start buying more and more parts.>>>




Which parts were replaced ?




<<< Previously it would not stop when a cycle ended>>>




Has the Main Board been replaced for this *original* symptom?




<<<I push the power button, I can select a cycle, when I hit start, the dryer tries to start and but doesn't.>>>




Possible causes:


Blower Housing has obstruction (clothing/lint)


Drum Rollers/Wheels binding


Motor *centrifugal switch* is missing one of two tension springs (can usually be found in the dryer after disassembly)


You'll need to open up the dryer and investigate further---to identify/find the defect.

#300931 Samsung WD8854 RJZ - no power, and I cant open the front panel

Posted by john63 on 13 August 2014 - 10:02 AM

I have never serviced a Samsung washer/dryer combo.


This one appears strikingly similar to the LG WM3431 combo


Steps that I'd take...


1) Verify power at the wall outlet


2) Verify that the Noise Filter (located at the right/rear corner) has power coming from it


3) Locate the Main Board (usually found at the bottom/base of the combo) and verify that the LED lamp/light is illuminated (if it has one).

Replace if needed.

#300927 LG LFX31925 icemaker fan replacement - mystery fan defroster pigtail

Posted by john63 on 13 August 2014 - 09:22 AM

<<<The ice rink in my case was due to massive buildup on the panel in front of the IF, which melted just enough, with each defrost cycle, to trickle down the front of the grille/fan assembly and pool on the freezer floor. Defrost drain was never occluded.>>>




If the ice accumulation returns---remove the GrilleFan Assy and clear the defrost drain...

#300920 LG LFX31925 icemaker fan replacement - mystery fan defroster pigtail

Posted by john63 on 13 August 2014 - 08:26 AM

<<<no more ice rink on the floor of the freezer compartment>>>




This can *only* occur---when the defrost drain hole has become blocked/restricted.


Remove all ice and clear the defrost drain hole with compressed air.




<<<They replaced the fan assembly once before during the warranty period but didn't put in the heated fan and problem recurred.>>>




The original attempt to correct the problems of...


"ER/IF" error


Icemaker not functioning


Noisy (fan motor blades hitting frost/ice)


Was to replace the GrilleFan Assy (without an internal mullion heater) and the Main Board (modification of fan motor speeds)---did not successfully resolve the problem.


Later---a GrilleFan with the internal heater was introduced (successful)


Consumers/customers that contacted LG *after* an initial repair (using the original re-designed GrilleFan) to report that the complaint had returned ("ER/IF" etc)---were given an authorization for the new GrilleFan replacement.


The purchase date is irrelevant.


Since you've had the GrilleFan *with* a heater installed---there's not much LG will do at this point as the problem is now resolved.

#300909 LG LFX31925 icemaker fan replacement - mystery fan defroster pigtail

Posted by john63 on 13 August 2014 - 01:06 AM

OK, answering my own question: yeah, it's the wrong part, despite everything else fitting perfectly. This appears to be the result of a bad substitution from an online parts site. The above part is actually for the LFX31945, and maybe for later LFX31925 serial numbers than mine. The correct kit is of course the one mentioned in john63's post, Refrigerator IR/IF: part number Part number: AEB73785610

Part number: AEB73785610

 -- the above part is not a subsequent version, it's a different version of the grille assembly for refrigerators with a factory provision for an icemaker fan heater: hence the incorrect Molex plug. Not sure how I missed that the first ten times. (Also not sure why LG sells two versions, instead of one universal version with a pass-through adapter for the earlier units... but whatever.)



The GrilleFan Assy (AEB73785610) has been replaced with (Part number: AEB73785615

Part number: AEB73785615



No specifics given for the change in part numbers (both appear identical)...

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