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Member Since 25 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Apr 14 2015 08:46 PM

#313635 Samsung DMT800RHS - LE code

Posted by john63 on 18 February 2015 - 03:12 AM



During the cycle---if a leak has been detected by the electrode/leak sensor---the unit will shut-down and trigger an "LE" error (Leak Error).


Not having finished the cycle---the dishes/glasses/silverware will remain dirty.


Inspect the electrodes on the bottom of the dishwasher---part of the plastic bottom cover/plate (must remove d/w from the counter)


Oftentimes---evidence of a leak can be seen/traced to a point of origin---even if the area under the dishwasher is bone-dry when you are examining it.

Look for detergent residue (white stain)


On the other hand---if you find that the bottom plate/cover is wet (and water is still in the electrode "mini-sump")---wipe dry and run a test cycle with the d/w still removed from the counter.


If an "LE" occurs again---remove the bottom cover again and try to trace/locate the origin of the leak.




<<< I had an LG that would lose every drop of water and the customer didn't notice >>>




Seems very unlikely...


Even if the customer complains that the dishes/glassware are still dirty but has not seen/noticed water on the floor---an error *will* occur---indicating a problem/fault.


An LG dishwasher that "loses" water during the fill cycle---will trigger an "E1" error---before attempting to even start the cycle.

During fill--- the Hall Effect Sensor on the Guide Assy---is indicating that water is entering the tub---but the *float* (also part of the Guide Assy) is not rising and actuating a small microswitch.

Within a specific time limit---the Main Board is expecting/waiting for a "signal"---from the switch.

This lack of "confirmation" (signal)---triggers an "E1" error.


If water is "lost" during the wash cycle---an error of "1E" will be displayed.

The dwindling quantity/amount of water will cause the wash motor RPM to accelerate---which is then detected through feedback to the Main Board from the Hall Effect Sensor on the motor.

The dishes will remain dirty.

#307210 LDF7810ST -- LG d/w with poor washing

Posted by john63 on 06 November 2014 - 10:14 PM

<<< Serial # for the unit is 512KW00735 >>>




Built December 2005




<<< Came up on unit with owner giving a complaint about washing problems, saying it was worse in upper rack. 


1)  Partially undissolved detergent left in dispenser.

2)  Top of the inner door was wet wet wet. 

3)  No error codes on the screen or having popped up according to customer. >>>




First thing to do---is ask the customer if any previous repairs/service had been done to the dishwasher since new.


If no---the SUMP ASSY is likely the original and is flawed (poor wash results/noisy)


Revised/improved SUMP ASSY part number is: Part number: AJH31248604

Part number: AJH31248604




<<< There was a wire tie on the main control board (insulated metal, not a zip tie) that showed scorch marks. >>>




Possibly shorted at some point.

However---most LG dishwashers WITH the tar-like insulation/sound deadener---do leave brownish/black oily residue that *appears* to be an indication of a fault/problem (but is not).




<<< LOTS of rust on the frame with a drip trail going all the way up to the vent motor. Looks like there's a split where the plastic vent housing hits the motor >>>




The original Vent/Duct connection to the Blower Housing is prone to seepage type leaks (at the point where the long white plastic tube attaches to the Blower Housing).

Pull off the long tube---add silicone sealer to the Blower Housing and re-attach the duct.

If a seepage-type leak is also found at the hole on the stainless steel door---silicone sealer solves that as well (disconnect the Blower Housing)




<<< I put the machine into "rinse".  It filled up to the door, so it looked like a complete fill. >>>




The correct amount of water entering the tub---should at the ring/indentation on the stainless steel tub (more than that is an overfill condition)


This dishwasher should also be upgraded with a new GUIDE ASSY (Part number: 4975DD1001A

Part number: 4975DD1001A

)---to eliminate a very random/unpredictable leak-at-the-door symptom. The Guide Assy has also been re-designed to eliminate *siphoning* during wash/air sucking sounds during wash/and Heating Element damage


The Drain Hose (Part number: AEM69493801

Part number: AEM69493801

)has also been changed---to fit/work with the new Guide Assy (eliminate siphoning ) and is an improvement over the original (less prone to cracking/splitting/water leaks).




<<< During the cycle, the upper wash arm never moved.  Upper wash arm was clean, no clogged holes. >>>




Although the Vario Motor *can* be at fault---it is a rare failure (new Sump Assy is a sub-assy and comes with a Vario Motor---among other parts/components)


NOTE: On LG dishwashers---the lower wash arm is pressurized with water for about 1.5 minutes---then the middle & upper wash arm for 1.5 mins (alternating)


On this dishwasher---the sound deadening/insulation is a tar-like material.

LG has instructed (and therefore "authorized/allowed"") their technicians to do the following...


1) Inspect all wiring inside the door---from the bottom of the door assy---to the Detergent Dispenser Housing.

Repair any/all wiring as needed


2) Wrap the entire wire harness from the bottom of the door---up to the Detergent Dispenser housing---with electrical tape

Place a small section of cardboard between the wire harness and the tar-like material

Re-install door panel




<<< Also, taking off the kick plate to look at the schematic, there was a scorch mark on the kick plate. >>>




Likely caused by a shorted wire at the Terminal Box---an older problem that was corrected.

Common to see on many dishwashers---usually an installer added wire caps to join the wiring and "tightened" them very *delicately*




<<< in this case it's Joe Friday and just the facts. >>>




The best policy.

Full disclosure---and let the customer decide what to do:)


In this case---we're looking at...


1) Sump Assy (Part number: AJH31248604

Part number: AJH31248604



2) Guide Assy (Part number: 4975DD1001A

Part number: 4975DD1001A



3) Drain Hose (Part number: AEM69493803

Part number: AEM69493803



4) Wiring Repair in door


5) Silicone Sealant for Duct


6) Likely new Door Cables (Part number: 4933DD3001B

Part number: 4933DD3001B

Improved/stronger/quieter. 2 needed


Good luck

#307046 LG WT4870CW UE 22 CODE

Posted by john63 on 03 November 2014 - 10:34 PM

Welcome to the laundry washer equivalent of "flutter" (http://en.wikipedia....niff_Flight_542)


If this washer was built before September 2013...


The Main Board software needs to be updated (contact LG)


It's a free service---even if out of warranty


The authorized LG servicer has the option of using a portable "jig' to erase the origin software---and upload a revised software or replace the Main Board.


The Stator and Rotor are not at fault (nor is the Hall Effect Sensor)


After the Software Update has been performed---inform your servicer that...


There may be a possibility of "Tolerance Stack-up" (I sometimes wonder though---if that's really the case)


To rule out Tolerance Stack-up...


Loosen the Pulsator Bolt (10mm) and re-tighten


Remove the Rotor Bolt (24mm)---then remove all of the Stator Bolts (10mm)---re-install and re-tighten all bolts


Try washer for 3 to 5 loads to verify that the "uE" (not an error code) and especially "UE" (this IS an error code) has significantly diminished in frequency


If not---contact LG again and read them the riot-act for a washer that is not repairable (for at least 70% of the time that these steps are performed)


The top loading washers (all brands) without an agitator---are a nightmare of balance-related nuisance errors and the resulting re-filling/re-pulsation/re-draining of water before attempting to enter the spin cycle---again. Cycle durations run between 2 to 3 hours before the washer "defaults" and terminates the cycle (usually displaying a "UE" error)


If this washer were a passenger airplane---there would've been numerous break-up-in-flight crashes by now.


With that kind of liability (in commercial air travel)---the problem(s) likely would also have been identified/corrected years ago.


Good luck.

#306966 LG WM2101HW noisy, stuck on 9 min. UE error

Posted by john63 on 02 November 2014 - 12:11 PM

The Hall Sensor is not likely to be at fault (I've never had a failure after 2008)


The Rotor looks fine.




<<<The hum, then growl results in an LE error if I let it go long enough.>>>




A failing Motor Wire harness can cause this---broken strands of wire---that are not visible.


When this occurs--- the balance algorithm is also affected---resulting in a "UE" error at times.

The tub will usually spin smoothly at first---and then suddenly become out-of-balance---in addition to growling/grinding noise.




<<<And the rotor would push in when I would put the assembly back on sometimes. I would just push the tub back or pull the shaft back out - is that normal?>>>





#306400 LG WM2501HVA LE error

Posted by john63 on 25 October 2014 - 09:29 PM

<<< The first thing I do is put it into test mode on a spin test and wiggle the wire harness to the stator/hall sensor and it starts spinning, then stops spinning, starts, stops, etc.  Ok, bad harness. >>>




 Yes---that's the symptom of a failing Motor Wire Harness


The STATOR is so robust/durable---that I've never had a failure yet.


Trying to find the Part Number...


Here----> Part number: 6877ER1016F

Part number: 6877ER1016F

#306358 Lg washer wm2455hw

Posted by john63 on 24 October 2014 - 10:05 PM

Good job.


All LG front washers will enter Emergency Drain---if the water level is excessive.


An "FE" error will be triggered as well (and it did not)


The door should also remain locked (and it did not)


Since you already replaced the Water Level Sensor---that left the Main Board as the culprit.








Built July 2008


An FYI...


On LG front load washers built *before* 2010---if the washer is plugged in---the Water Level Sensor always remains *active*

If a water valve fails to fully close after a cycle---and water continues to trickle into the tub---eventually the washer will "wake-up" and initiate Emergency Drain (the door will NOT be locked though until the Main Board "wakes-up")


LG washers built 2010 and newer---this feature has been discontinued

The silent Water Level Sensor "monitoring feature"---uses 40 watts 24/7/365

Uncle Sam *hates* standby-mode power usage




To cancel a cycle in an LG front load washer...


1) Press the POWER button to turn off the washer


2) Turn on washer


3) Press the SPIN SPEED button (if No Spin is selected---this is a 1 minute Drain-Only mode)


4) Press the START button

#305801 LG WM2140CW wont spin out every time

Posted by john63 on 16 October 2014 - 11:01 PM

<<< The other times it drains out mostly but not all and wants to spin but wont, just contines to tumble. >>>




If water does not fully drain due to an intermittently failing Drain Motor...


The WATER LEVEL PRESSURE SENSOR detects water is still in the tub


The Main Board will wait for---essentially a "green light" signal---from the Water Level Sensor


High Speed Spin will be *stalled* until at least most of the water has been drained


One simple way to verify if the Drain Motor is at fault (and not a blockage).


If the washer is NOT on a pedestal---take a small cup---and drain water from the tub using the small black tube at the Pump Clean-Out Strainer located at the lower/left side of the washer


Once all water has stopped draining from the black tube---place an old towel on the floor and remove the pump strainer

Use caution---if there's a blockage in the strainer---several gallons of water may gush out. Be prepared to immediately re-install the strainer.


Once all of the water has been drained---turn on the washer and press the SPIN SPEED button (select high speed spin)


Press the START button and wait until the display reads/shows 9 minutes remaining.


Does it spin?


If there was severe blockage in the Pump Strainer---no need to take further action.


If the Pump Strainer was clear/clean---replace the Drain Motor.

#305651 LG Fridge lfc25770st ER FF issue

Posted by john63 on 14 October 2014 - 09:37 PM

 <<< OK So my LG fridge threw the dreaded ER FF error code. >>>




I didn't know that error codes were considered "dreaded"   :)

They're a fantastic diagnostics tool (think of error codes---as a communication translator between a human and a computer)




<<< So I went and replaced it with a new freezer fan, lg discontinued original and used new version of fan.  Now the fan runs but the fridge won't cool and cycles every 5 minutes or so on and off.   So I tried to put it into testmode and I get 888 888 for an error code on mode 1 and 222 222 on mode 2.>>>




Two things are needed:

1) Full Model Number

2) Serial Number


If the Serial Number is 903KRxxx or lower (March 2009 or older)...


The Freezer Fan Motor was prone to moisture damage.

This in turn---damaged the Main Board (short)


The Main Board part number varies (depending on the full model number)


If the Model Number ends with:







The correct Main Board is (6871JB1423J)


If the Model Number ends with an "/05"-------> (Part number: EBR52304404

Part number: EBR52304404


If the Model Number ends with an "/06"-------> (Part number: EBR52304408

Part number: EBR52304408


#305460 LG Top load washer WT4870CW LE code

Posted by john63 on 11 October 2014 - 10:39 PM

<<< Would I have to go an authorized LG service center to get the update? >>>


<<<  could I remove the main and take to them and not take the whole washer? >>>




The software update *can* be done ---with the Main Board removed


Verify that the Serial Number 401xxx or lower 




<<<  I am curious, how does a unit that needs a software update, work fine for awhile then start acting up after 18 months.>>>




The "LE" error is unrelated to the software update---but may be caused by it (tub damage) 

#305444 Walking out

Posted by john63 on 11 October 2014 - 06:38 PM

Could be bi-polar.


I had a customer once---that said and did *bizarre* things.


This never really bothered me though---as it was clear that she was *not* of her right mind.


It's rare that a customer gets under my skin---those that have---were certainly NOT mentally-challenged (just a**holes)

#305441 LG Top load washer WT4870CW LE code

Posted by john63 on 11 October 2014 - 06:24 PM

The latest S/Bs cover the following models that were built  *before* November 2013 or January 2014 (varies depending on model)








WT5170HW / HV


These models require a software update (with an updated jig)---and the software is indeed within the MAIN BOARD for these rather than in the Display Board.


A special plug for the jig is required---to access the Main Board connection.


For the "LE" error...


Remove the top of the tub (plastic)---and inspect the stainless steel inner basket---for major damage (bulging against outer tub)


Check for clothing as well.



For the above listed models---the STATOR and ROTOR should not be replaced (not deemed necessary).

#305359 kenmore fridge model 79577544600

Posted by john63 on 10 October 2014 - 07:42 PM

<<< this unit was flashing on the display, fridge had lost its temp, compressor was not on, no fans.>>>




Can be caused by static---causes the Main Board to enter "safe mode"


Unplug/re-plug will re-set.


One potential source of static---would be pulling off the laminate coating on the doors (protects finish)---while the refrigerator is plugged in.


A bulletin was published for this particular issue.


Before peeling/pulling off the laminate---unplug the refrigerator.

#305358 lg frontload washer model #WM2010CW

Posted by john63 on 10 October 2014 - 07:36 PM

Built November 2009


Start by replacing the Motor Wire Harness (6877ER1016C)


Part number: ap4440012

Part number: ap4440012


The harness can (and often does) develop internal wire failure---I replace these quite often on LG washers 5 years old or more.


It's an inexpensive insurance against future erratic "LE" errors.

#305274 Lg lfx31925st/00 ice fan Question

Posted by john63 on 09 October 2014 - 08:58 PM

<<< I was wondering if a customer was not using the icemaker and had the switch off on the icemaker would the ice fan motor be swiched off also >>>






The Ice Room Fan Motor operation is needed to prevent stored ice---from melting and then leaking onto the floor.




The original french door refrigerators (approx. before 2006)---DID TURN OFF the IR fan motor.


A correction/fix was done (to the Main Board)---to allow fan motor operation when the icemaker has been deactivated/turned off.




This model refrigerator is known for *ice/frost* accumulation at/around the Ice Room Fan Motor ( stops the fan motor operation)


When this occurs---an "ER/IF" error will be triggered/displayed---three hours after the fault is detected.


If the SERIAL NUMBER is "311" or lower (November 2013 or older)---replace the GrilleFan Assembly.


The new GrilleFan Assy has an internal mullion heater added---around the Ice Room Fan Motor---to prevent restricted/blocked fan motor (blade) operation from frost or ice.


LG recommends setting the freezer temperature---on the door/display panel *below* 5F (preferably 0F) to maintain reliable in-the-door icemaker function.

#305248 lg wm3470hwa is giving me a PE code..

Posted by john63 on 09 October 2014 - 06:20 PM

<<<Just bought a refurbished washer from Lowes. It supposedly had the main board replaced>>>


 <<<the first thing it did when powered up was to throw a PE code.>>>




"PE" error = Pressure Sensor Error.


When the washer is *started*---a system test/verification is immediately performed by the Main Board.


Two things that I would inspect/check...


Unplug washer


Remove the top cover of the washer (2 Phillips screws at the rear of the washer---remove only the lower screws)


Slide the top cover rearward about 1 inch and lift off top cover


1) Verify that *every* plug has been connected to the "new" Main Board (you'll need to remove the white plastic cover on the Main Board)

The Main Board is located at the left/top/rear of the washer.


2) Verify that the Water Level Sensor---is still plugged in (This sensor is attached to the Main Board housing---and has a small diameter black tube connected to it)

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