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john63

Member Since 25 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 01:31 AM

#299622 Frigidaire FFFS5115PW - Bleach tray always filled with water

Posted by john63 on 26 July 2014 - 01:26 PM

Picture this:)

You're an appliance technician attending a training seminar---at a Holiday Inn

Classes begin a 8am

You awake at 7am and jump in the shower

While washing your face---and looking upward at the shower head

You notice that the shower head is cascading you with many strands of hot water but...

There's ONE strand/stream of water that's errant. It's *not* flowing towards you---but into the direction of the shower curtain:)

A washer with a dispenser drawer usually has 4 individual "shower heads" (Prewash/Main Wash/Bleach/Fab Softener Liquid)

Each of the "shower heads" operate at different points during the cycle

So you've had an epiphany

*What if one of those "shower heads" is inadvertently partially-filling one of the dispensers---while correctly filling/dispensing another?*


#299421 LG Tromm main board for WM2077CW

Posted by john63 on 23 July 2014 - 07:23 PM

 <<<The washer is dead and no red light on main board>>>

 

<<<and its getting power.>>>

 

**********

 

Getting power from where?

 

To verify that the Main Board has indeed failed---pull off the *pink* plug from the Electrical Noise Filter.

 

Test for 120 volts at the Noise Filter (pink connector)---not at the plug that was pulled off

 

If 120 volts at the Noise Filter---failed Main Board

 

If NO POWER at the Noise Filter---failed Noise Filter

 

At which point---it doesn't hurt to by-pass the Noise Filter by "jumpering" the *white* and *pink* plugs of the Noise Filter (washer MUST be unplugged before attempting to bypass)

 

If the Main Board functions with NF by-passed---replace only the Noise Filter

 

If the Main Board is still "dead"---it'll be necessary to replace both the Noise Filter and the Main Board

 

What is the SERIAL NUMBER of the washer?

 

There are at least two different Main Boards for this model (6871ER1003F) and (EBR32816703)

 

I have both Main Boards in stock.

 

You can send me a PM---with your phone number---and I'll have our office contact you.




#299355 Voicemail messages

Posted by john63 on 22 July 2014 - 07:20 PM

Some are loving...

"God Loves You"
"Jesus Died For You"
"Love Your Neighbor"

Others are fire & brimstone...

"You'll BURN IN HELL,DAMNATION!"
"If you do not follows God's words---to the very letter!!!"
"Now donate as much as you can to our temple---so that we may ALL be saved!"

I'll take the first one:)


#299282 LG Tromm WM2277HB error code ie won't fill

Posted by john63 on 21 July 2014 - 09:50 PM

If the Hot Water Valve does not function---replace it as well.

 

Part number: ap4441935

Part number: ap4441935




#299268 LG Tromm WM2277HB error code ie won't fill

Posted by john63 on 21 July 2014 - 07:38 PM

If the Cold Water valve that is *not* working---makes a buzz noise...

 

Yes.

 

Part number: ap4442608

Part number: ap4442608




#299178 LG3015ST F-3 code gas Range double oven code

Posted by john63 on 20 July 2014 - 11:33 PM

Hey Doc :)

You mean like this?...

Samsung Dishwasher error "LE" definition: Leak Error

LG dishwasher error "LE" definition: Locked-rotor Error

It's been said that the DIGITAL generation is a many-splendored-thing.

Except that techs have their hands full without trying to remember the dizzying array of error codes and definitions.

A standardized coding system would be nice (such as OBD2 in automobiles:)


#299177 LG Tromm WM2277HB error code ie won't fill

Posted by john63 on 20 July 2014 - 11:23 PM

1) Check the Water Fill Hoses---if stainless steel FLOOD SAFE/FLOOD CHECK hoses are used---the washer will not function properly

If the hoses are not the fault---continue with the following...

2) Press the SOIL LEVEL and SPIN SPEED buttons
Press the POWER button and then release all three buttons
Wait for the door to lock (single click sound)
Press the START/PAUSE button 4 times at one second intervals
This will be cold water *Prewash* fill (open the Detergent Dispenser Drawer slightly to observe)
Press the START/PAUSE button a 5th time
This will be cold water *Main Wash* fill
Press a 6th time
This will be hot water fill


#299172 LG3015ST F-3 code gas Range double oven code

Posted by john63 on 20 July 2014 - 10:52 PM

F2 is an Oven Sensor error

 

F3 is a Keypad error




#298909 LG WM2487HRM tE Error Code After Main Board Replaced

Posted by john63 on 17 July 2014 - 05:10 PM

The original symptom was the Washer "hung" at 9 minutes remaining with each wash cycle, and wouldn't spin.  If I ran the diagnostic on it, it would spin at all speeds (options 1, 2, and 3 on the QC Test) empty.  I put a few articles of wet clothing in it (2 actually) and it wouldn't spin at all with the weight on the Drum.  We left on a vacation the next day, and a person watching our house tried to do a load since he was unaware of the issue.  He said there was an electrical burning smell from the Washer, the Drum never started to move, and the Washer did an auto-shutoff.  The power would not return.

 

When I got home, I tried to turn the Drum by hand from inside the lid and it was locked up.  I pulled the Rotor off of the original Stator and needed a small pry bar to do so.  The Rotor had electrical burn marks (white) on one 1/4 of the magnets in a group, and exactly opposite of these burn marks was black, thick markings on the magnets on the opposite 1/4.  All 6 bolts holding the Stator on were very loose and sticking out about 1/4" each (lock washers were wobbling).  I purchased a new Stator at a local Appliance Parts store, but could not get a new Rotor without ordering it.  The Stator has a new Hall Sensor on it.  I took the original Rotor and lightly sanded down the discrepancies on it with 150 grit sandpaper in order to rid it of the electrical burn marks and the black gunk.  With all parts back together (and Loc-Tite as well as greater separation on the lock washers thanks to pliers), the Drum spins freely with some resistance.  I'm guessing this resistance is due to the Stator and Rotor with the electro-magnet resistance.  The Rotor does not seem to be warped when I spin it, as I cannot hear any odd rubbing sound or metal-on-metal when I spin the Drum.

 

Any ideas? 

 

Wow.

 

A lot of critical information---that would have been helpful---earlier:)

 

***********

 

<<<The white wire on the shorter wiring harness from the intermediate connector to the Hall Sensor was broken at the plastic clamp which holds the wiring harness onto the outer Drum.>>>

 

**********

 

Caused by this...

 

<<<All 6 bolts holding the Stator on were very loose and sticking out about 1/4" each (lock washers were wobbling).>>>

 

I have *never* seen/witnessed these bolts being loose---definitely an odd one.




#298857 LG WM2487HRM tE Error Code After Main Board Replaced

Posted by john63 on 16 July 2014 - 11:55 PM

Correct Main Board Part Number is:   Part number: 6871ER1062G

Part number: 6871ER1062G




#298856 LG WM2487HRM tE Error Code After Main Board Replaced

Posted by john63 on 16 July 2014 - 11:47 PM

After you've replaced the Main Board---and the "tE" error remains...

 

Disconnect the plug from the Thermistor (6 o'clock location on tub)

 

Inspect wiring *very* closely for damage

 

Disconnect the plug at the Main Board (thin blue and white low voltage wires)

 

Disconnect the plug at the Thermistor (blue and white wires)

 

Use a test meter to check continuity of the *white* wire at the Main Board plug---and the *white* wire at the Thermistor plug

 

Have an assistant move/bend/flex the plug at the Thermistor---while testing continuity (to rule out broken strands of wire internally---but is not obvious)

 

Repeat test with the *blue* wire.

 

If an "open" occurs with either the blue or white wire---after bending/flexing...

 

Repair as needed---even if cutting off the plug becomes necessary---to splice the blue or white wires (hard wire) to the Thermistor.

 

Before re-assembly---add NOALOX compound.

 

**********

 

<<<There's a brand new Stator (w/brand new Hall Sensor) on it, the original Rotor>>>

 

**********

 

A "tE" error can ONLY be triggered by a fault in the circuit of the tub THERMISTOR

 

A failed/faulty Hall Effect Sensor will trigger ONLY an "LE" error---and no other.

 

Stators never fail.

 

The Rotor can cause a problem if the spline has become stripped (a failure usually limited to the WM0642 model washer) or if one of the magnets has become loose or cracked (very very rare)

 

**********

 

<<<I'm thinking I received a bad Main Board.>>>

 

**********

 

If the Main Board was new-in-box (not an online auction website replacement part)---the possibility would be very low.




#298751 LG WM2487HRM tE Error Code After Main Board Replaced

Posted by john63 on 15 July 2014 - 11:31 PM

If the "bulb grease" is in fact---dielectric grease...

 

Dielectric grease is *not* electrically-conductive.

 

I discovered this the hard way :)




#298586 Whirlpool duet wfw925oww00. LF error for no good reason.

Posted by john63 on 13 July 2014 - 10:59 PM

Possibility...

 

Slow *air* leak (hole)---in the Water Level Sensor *hose*.

 

This usually causes other symptoms though...

 

Frequent interrupted wash/tumble and then water fill resumes

 

Excessive amount of water in the tub

 

Long cycle run times




#298379 LG WM2487HRM No Power After Spin Issue

Posted by john63 on 10 July 2014 - 11:44 PM

Skip the *middle*---test the outer pins on the Noise Filter for 120 volts.

 

Part number: 6201EC1006M

Part number: 6201EC1006M




#298350 LG WM2487HRM No Power After Spin Issue

Posted by john63 on 10 July 2014 - 04:29 PM

Be back in a few hours---back to the coal mines...







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