Original Main Boards cannot be used with new style three way valve---or vice versa...
Compressors can be destroyed in as few as 3 years---if refrigerator has been improperly installed---in a box-in-the-wall.
Causes scorching-hot compressor running temperatures---and an early death---fairly common since few delivery crews or home owners ever actually read the Installation Manual---which clearly explains the installation requirements (but FAILS to warn WHY it is so imperative)
This is a good idea and one that was often recommended by an LG guru that used to frequent these pages. I actually forgot about this until you mentioned it. Go forth and conquer!
Yes---I did recommend using *dielectric* grease until I discovered that dielectric grease is an INSULATOR---not a CONDUCTOR.
I posted a thread awhile back---discussing this oft-misunderstood application/use of dielectric grease.
For an "LE" error---generally the LG washer does *not* have issues with weak/poor plug connections at the STATOR or MAIN BOARD.
It is far more common to have a weak feedback connection at the THERMISTOR on the older LG washers (such as the WM2487).
This triggers an error of "tE" (Thermistor *signal feedback* Error)
For this---using a silver-laced grease/compound at the Thermistor plug connection works exceptionally well (I use Chemtronics silver electrical paste)
On the WM2487 washer---if you are experiencing erratic "LE" errors---and the correct type and amount of laundry detergent is being used (as well as having already replaced the older syle Hall Sensor with the new and "stronger" sensor)---it's time to replace the STATOR.
Older models can have a problem with a degraded/weak connection at the Stator plug (not the Motor Wire Harness plug).
)---to eliminate a very random/unpredictable leak-at-the-door symptom. The Guide Assy has also been re-designed to eliminate *siphoning* during wash/air sucking sounds during wash/and Heating Element damage
The Main Board software needs to be updated (contact LG)
It's a free service---even if out of warranty
The authorized LG servicer has the option of using a portable "jig' to erase the origin software---and upload a revised software or replace the Main Board.
The Stator and Rotor are not at fault (nor is the Hall Effect Sensor)
After the Software Update has been performed---inform your servicer that...
There may be a possibility of "Tolerance Stack-up" (I sometimes wonder though---if that's really the case)
To rule out Tolerance Stack-up...
Loosen the Pulsator Bolt (10mm) and re-tighten
Remove the Rotor Bolt (24mm)---then remove all of the Stator Bolts (10mm)---re-install and re-tighten all bolts
Try washer for 3 to 5 loads to verify that the "uE" (not an error code) and especially "UE" (this IS an error code) has significantly diminished in frequency
If not---contact LG again and read them the riot-act for a washer that is not repairable (for at least 70% of the time that these steps are performed)
The top loading washers (all brands) without an agitator---are a nightmare of balance-related nuisance errors and the resulting re-filling/re-pulsation/re-draining of water before attempting to enter the spin cycle---again. Cycle durations run between 2 to 3 hours before the washer "defaults" and terminates the cycle (usually displaying a "UE" error)
If this washer were a passenger airplane---there would've been numerous break-up-in-flight crashes by now.
With that kind of liability (in commercial air travel)---the problem(s) likely would also have been identified/corrected years ago.
<<< The first thing I do is put it into test mode on a spin test and wiggle the wire harness to the stator/hall sensor and it starts spinning, then stops spinning, starts, stops, etc. Ok, bad harness. >>>
Yes---that's the symptom of a failing Motor Wire Harness
The STATOR is so robust/durable---that I've never had a failure yet.
All LG front washers will enter Emergency Drain---if the water level is excessive.
An "FE" error will be triggered as well (and it did not)
The door should also remain locked (and it did not)
Since you already replaced the Water Level Sensor---that left the Main Board as the culprit.
Built July 2008
On LG front load washers built *before* 2010---if the washer is plugged in---the Water Level Sensor always remains *active*
If a water valve fails to fully close after a cycle---and water continues to trickle into the tub---eventually the washer will "wake-up" and initiate Emergency Drain (the door will NOT be locked though until the Main Board "wakes-up")
LG washers built 2010 and newer---this feature has been discontinued
The silent Water Level Sensor "monitoring feature"---uses 40 watts 24/7/365
Uncle Sam *hates* standby-mode power usage
To cancel a cycle in an LG front load washer...
1) Press the POWER button to turn off the washer
2) Turn on washer
3) Press the SPIN SPEED button (if No Spin is selected---this is a 1 minute Drain-Only mode)