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Member Since 23 Jul 2010
Online Last Active Today, 07:42 PM

#309969 Samsung RS261MD

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 22 December 2014 - 07:54 PM

lol Bro Spanner, I just noticed it and you commented before I got a chance....or maybe I'm slipping.. lol

Uh.... Steven, let me guess.... you use your fridge to cool your house... no? then why on earth is this thread posted in the HVAC forum as opposed to the kitchen forum??

moving to Kitchen Forum

#309725 GE PSS26SGRBSS runs all the time

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 17 December 2014 - 10:40 PM

Re Heater... I strongly recommend using the heater GE recommends and follow included instructions (unless you don't mind increasing the chances of burning your house down).

Re Fan... If the thermistor is in the fan harness of your original fan, then get the fan motor with the thermistor in the harness.

ps.. re Heater.... you are kidding, right?? If not, wouldn't you think the following concept would answer your question...http://en.m.wikipedi...ering_tolerance

#309635 GE PSS26SGRBSS runs all the time

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 16 December 2014 - 09:49 AM

Sounds like your fridge is running fine. Are you certain what you are experiencing isn't normal behavior? Many fridges have compressors that seemingly run all the time, however, they are highly efficient. Are you certain your senses are not heightened because of your recent repair?

Does your compressor feel hot or warm to the touch? If you unplug your fridge while the compressor is running and then immediately plug it back in, does the compressor come on instantly?

#309620 RFG297AAWP Samsung Refrigerator Not Cooling Fridge or Freezer

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 16 December 2014 - 08:53 AM

I agree with Bro. Bryan subject to further clarification of some points you made in your diagnostic report.

1) regarding sensors... you indicated you tested both... explain "both." Since the fridge was not at operating temps, did you test them using the ice water procedure? Did you test evap and compartment sensors in both compartments?

2) you stated the evap fan was running.... there are two. Are they both running?

3) Did you look at evap coils in both compartments?

4) what are the temps in each compartment

The theory behind my questions is this: You report as if this is a single evap fridge, when in fact it is a dual evap fridge with a three way valve. Although a sealed system failure is the more likely problem, based on answers to my question there could be another explanation... ie.. faulty three way valve motor stuck on one compartment causing that evap to freeze over in one compartment and not switching refrigerant to the other compartment resulting in increased temps in both compartments.

Although the above may not be the case in this situation, moral of the story, Samsung fridges must be diagnosed as a whole unit, the systems work in conjunction with each other so if there is a problem with the freezer, you must also check out all compartments, sensors, 3 way valves and even icemakers.

Also as a side note, because stored error codes will be erased if the fridge has been unplugged and also erased upon entering into diagnostics mode, out of calibration sensors and stopped evap fans are usually not reported, one cannot rule out anything based upon the lack of a displayed error.

Again, this may not apply here but make sure to keep them in mind when diagnosing your next Samsung.

ps, from the model number, one can tell what type fridge this is... "RF" means "Refrigerator French" RB= bottom mount RS= side by side. If a "g" follows the first two letters then it means the fridge has a three way valve.

#309591 Site Downtime Notice

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 15 December 2014 - 07:56 PM

I thought I saw it posted more than once. That explains it.

Yeah but the second time the title included the word "Please."   Man, that made me feel bad but I had no choice.  However, 

1) if the person is in the business, there is no excuse for not being  a member of appliantology as it is soooo inexpensive or

2)  a homeowner that owns a Wolf  has enough  money to pay for  a membership or  hire a tech.


So I don't feel too bad...lol

#309588 Site Downtime Notice

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 15 December 2014 - 07:36 PM

This was just this afternoon, here's the download I linked to. He/She couldn't find the manual so I found it and linked to it, the post just disappeared. 



Bro Spanner, He couldn't find the manual because he isn't an apprentice therefore cannot download . I deleted the thread. That thread was made  in the kitchen forum and not the Appliance manual request forum   Grasshopper also cannot post in the Appliance service request forums. Some grasshoppers think they can circumvent paying the small amount required to request a manual properly and instead requests it in a repair forum.


You might not be able to see if the person is a grasshopper or not if you are using the mobile site, but you can tell if the request isn't in the manual request forum.  Some grasshoppers are told of the requirements when, in the course of their properly posted repair thread, they happen to ask for a manual. But this grasshopper actually entitled his thread "In need of xyz manual"  and posted in  the kitchen forum.  I deleted it once yet he reposted it.....there is no way a person resposting a thread can avoid reading the notices....So the second time I deleted it and also sent him an instructional message.  I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused you 

#309472 Kitchenaid Refrigerator Model #KSRF25FHSS02

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 13 December 2014 - 03:54 PM

I'm sorry, actually It looks like a KSRA model #.
The coils are nicely frosted, compressor running. I've never seen a fan motor in series with a defrost bimetal except old Amanas, but it wouldn't
apply anyway. The bimetal is nice and frosty.
I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere. This is one of the problems. If I had it I could trace back and see where the 110V is being stopped to
the fan motor.
Part # of the diffuser is 2216112

Maybe then a KSRA25FKSS00?

With regards to the limit in series... there are other manufacturers who have done the same thing, including Frigidaire and GE, so as a tech and without a schematic, it is prudent to check out all possibilities. And when replying to someone who hasn't provided a proper model number, it is also prudent for one giving advice to include all reasonable possibilities.

Still unable to provide or check a diagram until an accurate model number is given

#309444 Kitchenaid Refrigerator Model #KSRF25FHSS02

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 13 December 2014 - 06:30 AM

Bro Bo, are you sure your model number isn't a KSRB instead of a KSRF?

If a Ksrb version then it has a mechanical timer....then the next question would be whether the compressor was running. If the compressor is running then I would check the door switch and check wiring diagram to see if defrost limit runs in series with the evap fan. I don't think that's the case but if it is in series, then check defrost limit.

If the compressor is not running, check the timer and cold controls and if the defrost limit is in series with evap fan and your evap is not cold enough to close the limit, check your start relay.

btw what's the part number of the air baffle assembly you replaced? That might help us with the model number mystery.

#309311 samsung RS277ACBP Not Cooling Properly

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 11 December 2014 - 08:38 AM

.... The fridge seems sub par but lets not go there yet...

Not the best way to think when dealing with Samsung's....even if it's a dual evap system. A failed sensor in one compartment can affect the entire machine... some models activate defrost in both compartments simultaneously not to mention most models daisy chain the fridge and freezer evaps.

So looking at your model specifically, your model is a dual evap sxs with separate defrost algorithms for fresh food and freezer and your evaps are daisy chained with refrigerant flowing through the ff section first then freezer section.

Taking into consideration your statement regarding ff temps, I would also check frost pattern of ff section...and make sure compressor is running. But do this after checking all sensors... there still exists the potential of multiple sensor failures although odds favor sealed system problem.

#309215 samsung RS277ACBP Not Cooling Properly

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 10 December 2014 - 01:29 AM

test all thermistors... if ok, more than likely a sealed system failure

#309118 KM (LG) FRIDGE 795.79299902 manual, please

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 08 December 2014 - 10:06 PM

here ya go bro Ty.. created just for you


btw when searching for models where there is a decimal point, try a search string without a decimal but using * before and after a few digits that come after the decimal.... for instance if you searched for *79299* prior to my uploading this file, you would have found the following thread http://appliantology...est/?hl=*79299*. In there you will see a possible compatible manual.

Two points to take from this info

1) decimal points confuses the search engine and

2) don't forget to search the forums for threads requesting your manual as that thread may point to a manual which will not come up in the dl section if you use the same search string that found the thread.

Hopes this helps!

#309094 Monogram Undercounter Fridge ZIFS240PASS

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 08 December 2014 - 01:20 PM

It wasn't my intentions to provide a solution, nor did you request one :

anyone out there with a wild idea on what this is? ....Just looking for a theory here that explains the concept behind the pruge noise. If I can get that then maybe I can figure a solution.

#309018 Samsung Dishwasher DMT400RHS/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 07 December 2014 - 07:41 AM

Patricio, you know I dont work on dishwashers but let's see if we can figure out the problem logically.

1) The fast track and my research suggests the problem is the water sensor
2) You said you replaced the case brake
3) You "believe" the sensor is part of the case brake

So what do you think should be our next step?

bingo... let's put the to the test your assumption

case sensor... ie water level sensor
Part number: AP5176868

Part number: AP5176868

case brake
Part number: AP5176865

Part number: AP5176865

The parts appear different and sold separately, Logic dictates you need to replace the water sensor but what do I know, I don't work on dishwashers.

#308997 >>>KENMORE DISHWASHER NO POWER<<< mod: 665.13742k60

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 06 December 2014 - 06:49 PM

Thanks Havoc!

Is your diagnostic procedure for this in the service manual or is it one of the tricks I just haven't learned yet?

I just dont see how any tech is supposed to know that unless its in the service manual or tech sheet...

So then why on earth won't you, as a tech, search for or request the tech sheet/manual ??

Pre-diagnosising as mentioned in the video doesn't mean just to come on appliantology and ask how to do something. That's expected from a diyer but not from a professional tech, especially one that is inexperienced and wanting to learn.

We don't mind helping each other with questions but we expect each other to have at least put in some research. Then the discussions between us will be more detailed and fruitful as we will indeed be on the same page. Search the site for prior discussions as well.

#308986 Amprobe Line Splitter

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 06 December 2014 - 03:10 PM

meh. A flat extension cord and a razor knife. Works for me...

true and can work like the splitter but neiher have the ease and versatility of a killawatt. By the time you break out the cord, clamp meter then position/hang it properly for a good reading , I'd be done already.

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