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DurhamAppliance

Member Since 23 Jul 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 11:29 PM

#316348 GE GDS20SBSBSS - Compressor won't start

Posted by DurhamAppliance on Yesterday, 09:31 PM

Let's try two tests for now:

1) remove power, disconnect the j2 connector from the board and restore power. If the compressor fires up, you have a bad board and a bad evap or condenser fan motor. If it still won't start, reconnect j2 and go to next test


Many times you cannot see damage to a relay. So the best method is to test the board by disconnecting the fridge and jumping Comp (j8) to line (j1). Make sure to keep the blue connector in place. Restore power and see if the comp fires up. If it fires up, you need a new board, if not you have a start device/compressor issue.


#316281 LG RANGE MODEL #LDE3037ST BLOWING THERMAL FUSE DURING CLEANING CYCLE ON LOWER...

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 25 March 2015 - 07:30 PM

Probably insulation has withered but why on earth would anyone use the self destruct... I mean the self clean feature on an oven? You can check for proper ventilation and fan motor behavior.


#316185 Hot point refrigerator m/ hss25ifmd

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 24 March 2015 - 07:17 AM

My goodness.... the only problem was a bad thermistor..... of course the fridge was in liner protection mode. This stuff is in the manual.... I suggest you thank Bro LI Ny for responding because my post was not going to be very nice.... all I have to say now is that I am embarrased for you. You now have to convince your customer that he needed all those parts when only a ten dollar sensor and a careful reading of the manual would have solved the problem, or in the case of the fan motor, provide sufficient understanding to know that maybe a problem did not exist.

You are a tech, it's your duty to at least attempt to learn these things prior to the repair. If you put forth an honest attempt and did not understand the info, I would spend all the time needed to help get you up to speed.

But when I detect lack of effort or lack of preparation all I can say is go read a damn manual and quit wasting my time.

(going to replace a board for the second time and have yet to replace an out of spec thermistor? Ha! smMFh)


#316166 Whirlpool GI15NFLTS2 icemaker: insufficient water in tray, no ice.

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 23 March 2015 - 12:12 PM

If you are making a manual request, please do so in the Appliance Service Manual Request Forum but make sure to search the download section first. See http://appliantology...-appliantology/to learn proper search techniques. If unable to find the manual you are looking for, post in the request forum. Thanks


#316157 Frigidaire FRT18L4JB3 not cooling in fridge, sweating like crazy, evaporator...

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 23 March 2015 - 12:02 AM

Okay.. that's your condenser fan motor. Sounds as though it is bad. We need to find out if the bad fan damaged your compressor. Unplug the fridge and let the compressor cool down. It may take a while. Meanwhile place a fan, box fan or any fan with a strong air flow, behind the fridge and allow it to blow across the compressor and condenser. Once the compressor is cool, restore power. Check temps after 4 hours or so. If temps are okay, test condenser fan motor to make sure it is getting 120vac while the compressor is running. If you are getting 120vac and your house fan test was successful, replace condenser fan motor.


#316147 Problems with Whirlpool Fridge #gb2fhdxws04

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 22 March 2015 - 07:54 PM

These repairs are quite simple.... see frost on evap.. test defrost circuit... circuit shows "s" for short... replace jazz board clear frost from evap and modify duckbill.

If you don't see frost but ice on the freezer floor, modify/replace duckbill. If the ice covered the evap cover vents, then expect some frost on the top of evap.

If you see frost around the door and light switch, make sure drawer is entering rails evenly and rail spring working properly and modify /replace duckbill.

heaters and limit rarely fail on these models... I can't remember the last time I had to replace one plus you would immediately know through diagnostics.. ...Jazz board and ptrap are a must... limits? if so desired but order the heater as needed unless you like to have extra stock around.


#316144 whirlpool m #106.74204400 freezing in ref area

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 22 March 2015 - 07:24 PM

This thermistor pn 2188820 is found in many whirlpool models, including the 2001 K type models such as GC5SHGXKB00 ... thus the thermistor temperature chart in the manual for that model applies:

gallery_51884_80_76271.png


#316098 Problems with Whirlpool Fridge #gb2fhdxws04

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 22 March 2015 - 07:18 AM

Where do I begin?.. I'm not one to pull punches so if you are squeamish, do not read.

1) you removed the duckbill??.. Was that ever suggested by anyone? What in the name of God possessed you to... never mind.. grade F

2) apparently you see frost and Ice as interchangeable terms... grade F

3) Never go to a jazz board fridge repair without both a board and a p trap (or an understanding how to modify the duck bill) . grade F

4) but the biggest mistake of all is not being properly prepared and not having the tech sheet prior to the repair. In addition, if you had searched the download section for your tech sheet, the duckbill bulletin would have come up and you would see reference to a P-trap. Guess why it's called a "trap?" There is absolutely no excuse for a rookie to play cowboy. Grade F-


I won't even give you a pass for having "prepared" for the duckbill issue since you removed the duckbill for Christ's sake! ... what did you do, partially read the discussions? Even a parts changing monkey would have changed, not eliminated the @#&$* part!

Being a rookie is not an excuse for being ill prepared. If that is going to be your mindset, then there isn't much helpful advice we can offer except become an authorized service tech. That way when you are as unprepared as you were on that repair, you can call technical support and they will hold your hand and walk you through each of your repairs.

If you detect frustration in my tone then bingf'ngo. If you want to accuse me of not being encouraging, then you're damn right. This site isn't designed to help you after an appliance handed you your azz, but its mission is to provide info and a helpful way of thinking prior to attempting the repair.

I will, however, encourage you to spend time on this site, watch the videos, read discussions. Learn how the master techs think, not just about your immediate issue but in general. Then you will flourish and grow in this business as a true professional. I can tell from your postings that you have the ability to be a great tech, if you want. But before you start thinking I'm going all mushy and lovey dovey on you, let me say this..... go read a damn manual and stop wasting my time!


#316077 Samsung Fridg RB195ACBP/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 10:45 PM

If you are unsure of your splicing ability then yes, order the parts as listed by Bro Spanner.. otherwise the only determination is what is more convenient to you, splicing what you have or packing-mailing and reordering? Splicing is certainly an appropriate and acceptable procedure for heaters and bimetals although not as elegant.


#316075 Samsung Fridg RB195ACBP/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 10:34 PM

If he already has parts then splicing may be in order as opposed to sending them back. Personally, under these circumstances I would splice.


#316070 Samsung Fridg RB195ACBP/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 10:07 PM

You are aware that those connectors in the picture on the left come apart, right? If so, it would be beneficial for us to see a separate picture of the original heater connector and compare it with your new heater connector.


#316016 Samsung Fridg RB195ACBP/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 09:51 AM

Great Bro Spanner! Is that from GSPN? ....If so ,much more dependable.... Sears has that heater as a freezer heater... duh sears

Samsung says you can replace the fuse with a bimetal. In fact, they used to say you SHOULD replace the fuses with a bimetal but recently backed off that position... still interchangeable though so splicing shouldn't be a problem if he doesn't want to wait.

and per samsung, evap defrost sensors (not compartment sensors since different connector but even they can be spliced as the sensor itself is the same) are all interchangeable. It's only the length of the wire that's different... usually just get the one with the longest wire DA32-00006W but now since they suggest moving the sensor to the middle top of the evap it's not even important to get the longest wire anymore.


#316013 Samsung RS265TDRS/XAA Disassembly Instructions

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 09:01 AM

The evap fans are in the freezer and fridge compartments accessed from the front.... condenser fan is accessed from the rear. Yes they will immediately throw codes if no feedback is received from the fan motors. Samsung fridges are to be diagnosed from the mainboard.... you must test for voltage to the fans at the board immediately after returning power.... if not voltage will cease and your testing will be fruitless. If the board is not sending power during this period, then you have a bad board.

Just remember, the board sends power to the fans... basically saying... "fan turn on" at the same time it is listening for a response. If no response, power stops for a few seconds then the board says... "let's try this again..." turn on".... it listens..... no answer... stops power... after a few minutes of this, it stops power completely as it doesn't want a bad fan motor or seized up fan to blow out a resistor on the board. Unplugging and restoring power starts the cycle again, so you must be immediately ready to test for voltage.... if you don't see the voltage pulse.... then more than likely a bad board..... but check all thermistors at the board first... Samsung boards are usually very reliable.


btw The evaporator fan motors are part of the evap cover.... in the fresh food section you may have to remove plastic light lenses to get at the top two screws securing the evap cover...

also you probably want to get the Fast track for this model... go to the download section and search for your model.... use the truncated/wildcard search technique to find it... see http://appliantology...-appliantology/


#316003 Kenmore 110.88752796, 24" washer dryer combo not selecting cold water

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 06:56 AM

What happens if you reverse the hoses?

Does cold water come on during rinse cycle?

If you select hot water first, let the water get to temp.. then switch to warm... is the water warm or still hot? Looking at the switch, there is no way you can get hot water wash and warm water wash yet no cold water wash.

Did you check for 120vac to the cold water valve when it suppose to be operating?





Here are the pertinent parts of the wiring schematic and timer schedule ....

gallery_51884_80_126671.png




med_gallery_51884_80_33351.png


#316001 whirlpool /k.aid dual evaporator models

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 06:25 AM

I cringe when I hear "whirlpool dual evap" or "GE SxS dual evap" At least GE was smart enough to contract with Samsung to produce their fdbm dual evaps, at least until they are able to produce a reliable model themselves. Although Samsungs have their issues (usually simple drainage/defrost isuues) , their dual evap systems are vastly superior.





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