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Member Since 23 Jul 2010
Online Last Active Today, 10:45 AM

#316070 Samsung Fridg RB195ACBP/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 10:07 PM

You are aware that those connectors in the picture on the left come apart, right? If so, it would be beneficial for us to see a separate picture of the original heater connector and compare it with your new heater connector.

#316016 Samsung Fridg RB195ACBP/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 09:51 AM

Great Bro Spanner! Is that from GSPN? ....If so ,much more dependable.... Sears has that heater as a freezer heater... duh sears

Samsung says you can replace the fuse with a bimetal. In fact, they used to say you SHOULD replace the fuses with a bimetal but recently backed off that position... still interchangeable though so splicing shouldn't be a problem if he doesn't want to wait.

and per samsung, evap defrost sensors (not compartment sensors since different connector but even they can be spliced as the sensor itself is the same) are all interchangeable. It's only the length of the wire that's different... usually just get the one with the longest wire DA32-00006W but now since they suggest moving the sensor to the middle top of the evap it's not even important to get the longest wire anymore.

#316013 Samsung RS265TDRS/XAA Disassembly Instructions

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 09:01 AM

The evap fans are in the freezer and fridge compartments accessed from the front.... condenser fan is accessed from the rear. Yes they will immediately throw codes if no feedback is received from the fan motors. Samsung fridges are to be diagnosed from the mainboard.... you must test for voltage to the fans at the board immediately after returning power.... if not voltage will cease and your testing will be fruitless. If the board is not sending power during this period, then you have a bad board.

Just remember, the board sends power to the fans... basically saying... "fan turn on" at the same time it is listening for a response. If no response, power stops for a few seconds then the board says... "let's try this again..." turn on".... it listens..... no answer... stops power... after a few minutes of this, it stops power completely as it doesn't want a bad fan motor or seized up fan to blow out a resistor on the board. Unplugging and restoring power starts the cycle again, so you must be immediately ready to test for voltage.... if you don't see the voltage pulse.... then more than likely a bad board..... but check all thermistors at the board first... Samsung boards are usually very reliable.

btw The evaporator fan motors are part of the evap cover.... in the fresh food section you may have to remove plastic light lenses to get at the top two screws securing the evap cover...

also you probably want to get the Fast track for this model... go to the download section and search for your model.... use the truncated/wildcard search technique to find it... see http://appliantology...-appliantology/

#316003 Kenmore 110.88752796, 24" washer dryer combo not selecting cold water

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 06:56 AM

What happens if you reverse the hoses?

Does cold water come on during rinse cycle?

If you select hot water first, let the water get to temp.. then switch to warm... is the water warm or still hot? Looking at the switch, there is no way you can get hot water wash and warm water wash yet no cold water wash.

Did you check for 120vac to the cold water valve when it suppose to be operating?

Here are the pertinent parts of the wiring schematic and timer schedule ....



#316001 whirlpool /k.aid dual evaporator models

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 March 2015 - 06:25 AM

I cringe when I hear "whirlpool dual evap" or "GE SxS dual evap" At least GE was smart enough to contract with Samsung to produce their fdbm dual evaps, at least until they are able to produce a reliable model themselves. Although Samsungs have their issues (usually simple drainage/defrost isuues) , their dual evap systems are vastly superior.

#315989 Samsung Fridg RB195ACBP/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 20 March 2015 - 09:41 PM

Repairclinc shows the freezer heater for this model and nothing for fresh food model... Sears shows the part you have as the fresh food heater.... if your heater has a connected limit, then there may have been a design change You can still splice the limit and the heater you have to the original connector without any ill effects

I searched for fresh food heater for similar models and the same part number you have, but an earlier revision comes up... part number ends in B instead of D but the connector appears to be the same

If, as earlier stated, your limit is wired to the evap, Samsung may simply. be telling you to splice the limit to the heater. Your heater should be rated at 120 ohms

If you see a heater that looks like the one you have but is listed as a freezer heater, it is not compatible as it is a 60 ohm heater

If none of the above applies, then provide us with pictures of the connector

#315982 Samsung RS265TDRS/XAA Disassembly Instructions

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 20 March 2015 - 08:08 PM

if both are frozen then the board will shut off the circuit to each fan. Unplug fridge then immediately test fan at the board... you will see 7-11vdc pulse on then off then on then off and will continue for a few minutes then there is a complete 10 minute shut down of voltage... this cycle will repeat itself until feedback from the fan is restored.

#315938 Samsung Fridg RB195ACBP/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 20 March 2015 - 01:39 PM

Yes, I am aware you provided a bom... just wanted to be certain you didn't make that common error and simply added the /xaa to the model number. If you are certain, we will move forward.... if you are unsure and I wind up chasing my tail for no good reason, rest assured it aint gonna be pretty.

#315625 GE R/F Model#GSH25JFXBWW

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 17 March 2015 - 02:49 PM

If indeed this model has the mylar damper then check out this bulletin


#315604 GE Mono Refer ZSFB23DNA SS freezing water line in door?

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 17 March 2015 - 10:40 AM

Those heaters are typically effective for compatible metal liner fridges (use a magnet on an inside compartment wall if you are unsure... no sticky no work-y) , especially if your freezer and fresh food compartments are operating normally and there isn't an air leak from the ice chute door.

Models that have similar dispenser interfaces to the run of the mill GE's yet have extra buttons... like temp controls etc, also no work-y (won't fit or different wiring)

#315458 ge range jgbp35wea2ww

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 14 March 2015 - 03:02 PM


I will respond to this with an homage to your avatar

"GE Appliances, are they an accident or did God do it to us on purpose? "

#315448 ge range jgbp35wea2ww

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 14 March 2015 - 02:01 PM

Gotcha covered:

Part number: AP2023936

Part number: AP2023936

#315332 Icemaker leaking - Jenn Air JFC2087HRS

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 13 March 2015 - 07:10 AM

I agree as well with Bro Wes' assement... so long as the icemaker itself is not out of sync.. ie harvesting too soon causing chards of ice to remain in mold resulting in overflow and ice cup blockage. Odds are it's the valve but check to make sure icemaker harvesting fingers are at the normal park position or if you have any. deformed ice in the bucket

However, if the ice maker is over 5 years old (life expectancy of the mold Teflon) I would replace the valve and the icemaker as Bro BryanS suggested and move on to life's other problems.

ps if you want to know for sure it's a leaking valve, unplug (don't just turn it off) the icemaker and wait a few days to see if ice builds up again... if it does, leaky valve.

#315328 KITCHENAID Side-by-side Refrigerator Model: KSRS27IHBL02

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 13 March 2015 - 06:14 AM

Distinguishing between pre and post 2002 optics is quintessential with older machines since testing procedures are different. The biggest difference is the use of the light switch in the older boards. Bro cruz indicated he has 2001 optics

Original optics testing procedure (pre-2002 boards):


#315255 KITCHENAID Side-by-side Refrigerator Model: KSRS27IHBL02

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 12 March 2015 - 06:45 AM

Did you try truncated searching using "Ksrs27*"... how bout widening the search to Ksrs2*? Find anything compatible? If you did not find anything compatible in the dl section, did you try truncated searching the entire site or specifically the Manual Request forum using "Ksrs27*" first then widening? Is what you find sufficiently compatible?

Searching in this manner can be very fruitful.... you may find tech sheets that are for a different size.. ie 25 cuft vs 27 cuft but everything else is the same... check it out... Secondly, by searching the entire site, you may find someone has requested a manual for a similar model and may point you to something you did not locate in the dl section. Also, by searching the site, you may just run across someone asking questions that may pertain to your issue.

Did you search " Kitchenaid SxS" in the dl section as well and checked out those manuals for compatibility? Sometimes things have been uploaded that may not specifically list individual model numbers

Find anything compatible? Let us know.

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