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DurhamAppliance

Member Since 23 Jul 2010
Online Last Active Today, 11:32 AM

#314419 GE Profile Refrigerator model PFSF6PKWBWW

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 01 March 2015 - 11:56 AM

Ice around fan motor is dead giveaway of drain problem, not defrost. If you notice, those Samsungs have really really short drain tube probes. Also this rarely occurs on the fridges with drain tube heaters except when the heater fails.


Re Ambient sensor.. yes the new models have the condenser fan controlled by ambient sensor... this can throw you off for sure... this was discussed in this year's ASTI along with the change in voltage to board is always hot


#314405 Whirlpool built DSI Gas range - Kenmore 665.72002101 F2-E2 (E2 not listed as...

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 01 March 2015 - 07:19 AM

Definitely an oversight..Thanks for the headsup! From Whirlpool.com:



gallery_51884_80_21256.png


#314342 FRS26W2AW9 is leaking slightly and frosting up compressor tubing

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 28 February 2015 - 10:58 AM

Not sure I understand the reason or wisdom for creating another thread , especially considering it requires techs to seek out the other thread, offers no update to the previous thread, provides no context and is a violation of forum protocol..... merging topics


#314244 Trouble with Kenmore(LG) 1F error code, no ice. 795.77563600

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 27 February 2015 - 07:50 AM

I must admire your guts for attacking an LG fridge without first having the documentation and a plan of action :





#314196 ZFSB27DYBSS ice maker dispenser removal

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 26 February 2015 - 10:30 AM

Without seeing a picture of your interface, I will assume this is similar to most GE dispensers..... from a recent thread concerning a different model

just about all the repair videos show them Prying off the trim piece for A GE dispenser repair. Absolute waste of time. It's like they conflated it with the whirlpool disassembly method or something.
If you look under the interface you will see three small holes... the outside two are the ones you need to concentrate on. Use a tiny screwdriver or any small pointy thing and push it up in the left hole and the left side of the interface pops off. Do the same for the right side. Once you get use to this method, you can pop the interface off in a few seconds.dc8357_0.jpg


The interface can also come off with an upward pull of the interface if you decide not to release the clips as stated above.

Anyhow, check under the interface for the little holes, if you see them then this method applies..
if not, upload a picture of your dispenser area.


#314193 Whirlpool RF388lxgz Ceramic top stove light on

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 26 February 2015 - 09:44 AM

More than likely a bad burner infinite switch

check out this thread http://appliantology...ric-stove-help/


#314190 Kitchenaid Built-In Refrigerator Wont Start: KSSO48FMX00

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 26 February 2015 - 09:39 AM

That's a great blog... don't know How I missed that one as I try to read as many of them as possible.


#314182 LG LMX28987ST

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 26 February 2015 - 08:45 AM

topics merged


#314178 Haier dryer RDE350AW manual request

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 26 February 2015 - 01:40 AM

better late than never...http://appliantology...service-manual/


#314123 Kitchenaid Built-In Refrigerator Wont Start: KSSO48FMX00

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 25 February 2015 - 11:41 AM

Here are some tips:


You can only enter diagnostics After fridge has been on for at least 13 seconds

filter reset and power buttons must function

if you cannot enter diagnostics, unplug fridge... plug it back in and wait 13 seconds before attempting again. The fridge must be in normal cooling mode to enter diagnostics.


If you cannot enter diagnostics, make sure the compressor is supposed to be on... ie make sure all the fans are running... then check for power from the board and to the inverter.

Being unable to enter diagnostics could mean there is a board problem, just be certain it is sending requisite voltage to the inverter as you certainly don't want to replace the board if the compressor is bad as well.


#314076 Kitchenaid Built-In Refrigerator Wont Start: KSSO48FMX00

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 24 February 2015 - 10:32 PM

Also, I built a compressor tester from the below website. I've used it on plenty of regular 120VAC compressors to isolate the compressor and it has worked fine. Would this same tester work on this compressor even though it has the inverter set up?

Only if your goal is to make certain the compressor never works again.


So you tested input to the inverter? If the board's output is fine just checking to make sure you tested input to inverter to rule out connector issue.... btw did you use diagnostics to force compressor to run while testing for power? If you did all of this, then compressor is more than likely shot.


#314048 GE SS25KSRE SS won't dispense water or ice

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 24 February 2015 - 02:40 PM

As previously stated by Bro Appliancedoc, check your connections at the hinge and mainboard

on This model, the mainboad does not control the individual dispenser components. That is done by the dispenser interface although power to this board originates from the j4 connector on the mainboard.

Ensure you are getting an uninterrupted 13vdc between pins 2 and 3 at J4. If the power is uninterrupted, odds are your mainboard is fine. You may want to check the power while there is a full load on the fridge... ie door lights on all fans running.. etc... a meter shunt test would simulate a full load( for more info on the shunt test see my blog at http://appliantology...mittent-fridge/)

The problem could also be with the dispenser interface itself. Make sure all the connections are seated properly.


If connection are fine and your board maintains voltage underload, I would order parts in this manner.

1) Dispenser board from Appliance parts pros ...

if problem not solved

2) order mainboard from Appliance parts pros

if problem solved, reinstall original dispenser board. If everything ok, return dispenser board. If problem still exists reinstall new dispenser board (means both boards are bad)

If problem doesn't go away, return dispenser and mainboard as your problem could be a wiring problem inside the door as Appliancedoc suggested

You have up to one year to return the parts for a full refund


Part number: AP3796827

Part number: AP3796827




Part number: AP4436216

Part number: AP4436216



#314032 Kenmore refrigerator 106.8536780 garage kit available?

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 24 February 2015 - 09:06 AM

The ambient bimetal on these models is used to determine whether the auxiliary heater needs to come on in order to maintain ff temps in the convertible freezer compartment when that compartment is changed to be a fresh food compartment. It's used for freezer to fridge conversion and it has no control of the condenser fan motor. There are fridges, however, that use ambient thermistors to determine condenser fan operation.


The gladiator/freezerator "has a suction line accumulator that allows it to be used in low ambient temperature." As for high temps in a garage, the gladiator has a "large capacity compressor, increased refrigerant charge, more fins on the evap and a faster speed evap fan motor."



Even so, According to whirlpool, the gladiator is rated to operate in temps of 20f- 110f . It can operate in temps as low as 0f if the top compartment is set to either freezer mode or warm refrigertor mode.


They are actually pretty cool fridges and usually if there's a problem it arises when the freezer is converted to a refrigerator. When this is done, the same issues arise as found in dual evap fridges.. ie an evaporator located in a ff compartment. Any entry of that humid surrounding ff air to the evap creates frost. Therefore, the integrity of the evap cover in that compartment is of utmost importance.

A Gladiator, at least, uses a metal shield between the evap and the Styrofoam of the evap cover which reduces the problem of the evap sticking to the Styrofoam and breaking it apart. But what you usually will find, as in models with an evap in the ff compartment, is a clogged drainage system that can lead to an iced up fan.

They are different beasts for sure and many companies won't touch them but they are really pretty simple.... cha ching!


#314031 Kitchenaid Built-In Refrigerator Wont Start: KSSO48FMX00

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 24 February 2015 - 08:09 AM

I use a variable dc power unit. I don't think there is a need for a variable ac power unit as most ac voltage will be 120v. Use a lamp cord for that. See http://appliantology...9;s#entry272160for a discussion of variable dc power unit.... I have the philmore unit Bro Radio Loco suggests. I did try the cheaper trisonic but it's not sufficiently durable so it stopped working.


#313903 GE Profile TFH22PRSM WW door ice dispenser broken

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 21 February 2015 - 08:17 PM

just about all the repair videos show them Prying off the trim piece for A GE dispenser repair. Absolute waste of time. It's like they conflated it with the whirlpool disassembly method or something.

If you look under the interface you will see three small holes... the outside two are the ones you need to concentrate on. Use a tiny screwdriver or any small pointy thing and push it up in the left hole and the left side of the interface pops off. Do the same for the right side. Once you get use to this method, you can pop the interface off in a few seconds.

dc8357_0.jpg





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