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DurhamAppliance

Member Since 23 Jul 2010
Online Last Active Today, 03:23 PM

#303107 GE Refrigerator GSH22JFTACC

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 11 September 2014 - 05:01 PM

remember that evap sensor also regulates prechill and dwell time. Dwell time is the period after the heater is off and before the fan comes on. If the dwell time is too short, then the fan will come on before the evap has "dripped dried" and the resulting moisture is sprayed around the freezer by the fan creating frozen tiny water droplets. Those droplets will look like frost as opposed to ice... very deceptive.


#303106 GE Refrigerator GSH22JFTACC

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 11 September 2014 - 04:53 PM

Defrost sensor can definitely do it. I had the same symptoms when a new evap sensor i installed fell off the refrigerant line. Caused frost on food, bottom of icemaker etc. So similarly, an out of spec evap thermistor can do the same.

Two rules you gotta remember

1)ALWAYS TEST ALL SENSORS when dealing with a temp/frost problem.

2) If ya gonna replace a board, replace evap and freezer compartment sensors too if you have a hard-to-diagnose temp issue and you suspect the board. It is really difficult to go back to a customer and say "oh... it wasn't that expensive board you paid for after all, it was only a ten dollar sensor, my bad. "

To avoid this, I simply say, "while I am in the freezer, i strongly suggest replacing the sensor as well as the board. They are prone to failure and we might as well do it since it's only $20 more." I have been known to even replace an evap sensor as a gratuity, just to cover my ass.


#303093 GE Refrigerator GSH22JFTACC

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 11 September 2014 - 02:59 PM

Don't tell me you replaced the board and the fan without first testing thermistors? Say it aint so!




#302994 Ge monogram fridge. Freezer only 18deg. ZISS480NRCSS

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 10 September 2014 - 03:58 AM

Applianceman97 question is the one I have also. Make sure the frost on the evap isn't the "wet" frost we call "head-fake" frost. Evap temps will tell. If temps are okay.

Did check compressor amperage?

How did you test thermistors?

the evap thermistor would be my number 1 suspect under these circumstances if compressor amp draw is normal. It's the thermistor that works the hardest and therefore the one more likely to fail. I would test it again, and perform the ice water test on it to be certain as it could be causing the system to defrost too often.

The next suspect would be the board... it could be initiating defrost too many times or even failing to prechill... ie drops temp in freezer prior to initiating defrost.

It you decide to change the board, make sure to change the evap thermistor regardless of its test results.


#302970 A world without GE Appliances?

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 09 September 2014 - 07:08 PM

I understand that GE did not sell its appliance parts division. If that's true, then we have more proof there's a sucker born every minute.


#302871 Temperature Problem With GE Profile Refrigerator Model #PFSS2MJXSS

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 08 September 2014 - 09:42 PM

As earlier mentioned, door switch is a possibility, based on statements about door, i would guess switch before board... checking continuity of door switch can yield faster results... the switch should be normally closed then show open when depressed


#302858 Whirlpool surface burner GY396LXGB5 goes to high

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 08 September 2014 - 08:15 PM

Mica, you are babbling again. lol
I
Oh, I think I understand. Actually Applianceman and I did the thinking part. It's nice to know you will do the ministerial stuff. But if you gonna do it, at least do it right. ..... Furthermore, posting part link is not a required step, and by alluding there is a missed step, you give the impression that we missed a step in the repair causing possible confusion.

babble translation :

Part number: AP2995189

Part number: AP2995189



ps, I have about 3000 posts that have your "missing step". Maybe you can find them and use them to practice on.

And for interrupting while grown-ups are talking :

ned-flanders.gif

 

 

 

You should thank the Samurai for cleaning up (editing) behind

you.




#302847 Whirlpool surface burner GY396LXGB5 goes to high

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 08 September 2014 - 07:07 PM

99.99% chance it is the switch.


#302819 Kenmore Fridge 106.53554202 leaking/frozen coils

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 08 September 2014 - 01:41 PM

you can do it while it's plugged in. No need to defrost it.


#302811 A world without GE Appliances?

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 08 September 2014 - 12:28 PM

Maybe they will be called Gelectrolux but we probably call them Geeitsux


#302808 Kenmore Fridge 106.53554202 leaking/frozen coils

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 08 September 2014 - 12:17 PM

You have a clogged/frozen defrost drain tube. Remove the ice sheet found directly under the evap and you will see a small hole. Clear the hole with very hot water (use a steamer if you have one). A little salt mixed in can help remove any ice plugging the drain tube. If you can't clear the tube from there, remove the machine compartment cover behind the fridge, find the drain tube and clear it.


#302791 Whirlpool Slide In Range GY399LXUB03

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 08 September 2014 - 09:15 AM

Thermocouple is correct. Convection cooking reduces temp by an average of 25 degrees to prevent burning. If your bake temps are calibrated, I don't think anything is wrong with the oven. A standard oven can cycle temps 25 degrees higher and 25 degrees lower resulting in a correct average temp. Add the 25 degree reduction used for convection and you have your 50 to 25 degree difference you are talking about although convection may not cycle temps on the high side.... not sure.

Many times customers use a standard oven thermometer and because they don't understand how the oven works, they complain about temps even though the oven is cooking their food properly. Now, in their minds, every thing is either being burned or undercooked.


#302775 Whirlpool elec dryer runs on low heat only

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 07 September 2014 - 09:09 PM

I'm glad this didn't happen

Kung Fu Pilot Episode... written by DrewT

Master Kan : "Quickly as you can, snatch the pebble from my hand.".... "When you can take the pebble from my hand, it will be time for you to leave.


Caine: " How insulting.... I can get my own @#&*$ pebble"


Caine, hard-headed, ovely-sensitive and unable to overcome the obstacles placed hefore him decides to quit the temple and go out on his own. After three more episodes of getting his butt kicked, the series is canceled... the end.


#302769 Samsung RF4267HAWP temperature sensors not reading correctly

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 07 September 2014 - 08:00 PM

Hey Hndrcks! Pretty good diagnosing.... but let's clear up. a few things

First, out of spec thermistors do not report as an error. Nor will a failed evap fan motor.

Secondly an inverter board ONLY converts DC to AC although some Samsungs have rectifier boards that convert AC to DC and usually mislabeled as Inverter boards but not in your case. The inverter board on your model simply controls the compressor. Your thermistors are controlled by the mainboard. The mainboard rectifies the Ac to Dc for the thermistors. CN75 sends pwm info to the compressor and receives signal input from the inverter/compressor only. So the inverter gets its AC power from line current and command info from the mainboard. The board receives Line current ac at CN70 distributes it to AC load items (other than compressor) and rectifies it to loads located on the opposite side of the board

Third, lets ge some info... what is your freezer evap thermistor reading? What voltage reading are you getting for your freezer evap fan motor?

When you say your thermistors are misreading.... be detailed please, provide actual temp and sensor volt and corresponding temp readings. Btw, how are you testing the sensors? Make sure when testing at the board, backprobe the gray wire ie Pin 1 at CN 76 when testing sensors at cn 30. Early Fast track editions failed to mention that.


#302766 Kenmore 795.71022011 - compressor question

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 07 September 2014 - 06:50 PM

Your last question is the one that immediately came to my mind as well. But I dont think every thing happens at the inverter boards.

I think the main board receives the AC then rectifies it to DC (ac to dc conversion board is a rectifier and a dc to ac conversion board is an inverter) Then the DC goes to the Inverter board which converts it back to AC... now whether this inverter board also has a transformer that increases the dc voltage before inverting it to AC, I'm not sure... there does seem to be a transformer on the inverter board. If you took dc readings at CN 2 on the inverter you can determine that.


out of curiosity, Did you try using the diagnostic test button on the mainboard?





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