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Member Since 23 Jul 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 05:35 AM

#274826 Icemaker producing yellow cubes

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 19 November 2013 - 10:38 PM

as per http://en.m.wikipedi...or_of_chemicals

there are 5 chemicals that are yellow when in an aqueous solution :

cobalt ammonium
tetrochloro-copper complex

If i had to guess, I'd say the color is coming from oxidation of iron or copper pipes.

#274761 GE side by side fridge GSS20IEMBWW

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 19 November 2013 - 09:19 AM

and to test your old fan motor that is not connected to the fridge or to test evap or condenser fan motors directly, you can use the Samurai's Quick n Sleazy method:

Quick n’ Sleazy Fan Test (9 volt battery)

- White wire to the negative battery terminal
- Connect BOTH the Red and Yellow wires to the positive battery terminal.
Do not reverse the leads or you’ll blow out the sensitive electronics built into the motor assembly!

Read more: http://appliantology.../#ixzz2l6L45oce
Follow us: fixitnowsamurai on Facebook

#274747 GE side by side fridge GSS20IEMBWW

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 19 November 2013 - 07:42 AM

Maybe it's your condenser fan motor taking out your boards.  Test the condenser fan motor.  Also check the two  resistors under the j2 connector on your old board for burns and discoloration.  Check your new board as well. It would also be helpful to know if your original evap fan motor was good.  Check it out with a 9 vlt battery. 


If you are able to run diagnostics, do the fan motor test,  the 100% run test and toggle the defrost on.. . see what happens then toggle it off (just curious to see if the board is stuck in defrost).   Note what happens,  if anything, during each of the tests. 


I have never experienced it with the countless GE mainboards I've replaced but I guess there is the possibility your new board was doa. 

#274735 Kenmore 253.5466940A Dispenser

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 18 November 2013 - 10:58 PM

Frigidaire made Kenmore..... this heater works for other kenmore/frigidaires with the same dispenser housing..http://www.repaircli...er=253.55699403

confirmed to work on your model..... Check near bottom of page http://www.yousergui..._5995446415-015

#274707 GE side by side fridge GSS20IEMBWW

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 18 November 2013 - 08:08 PM

several possibilities... first and foremost are the thermistors... test and replace them. Also. double check your board connections. 


was the compressor and condenser fan running the first time before you changed evap fan?  If not then high probability a thermistor problem.  Unplug the  j1 connector and see if the fridge fires up. If it does then definitely a thermistor problem. You may have to unplug the fridge and plug it back in. 


If the compressor still will not fire up,  unplug the j2 connector from the board.  If the compressor fires up, you still have a fan motor problem.  A bad fan motor can take out a board.   Did you check your condenser fan motor?  test both motors from the board and check. voltage at the motor connectors. 


Btw can you and have you run diagnostics? 

#274702 GE Monogram built-in Fridge intermittent low humming from above freezer

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 18 November 2013 - 07:49 PM

Check your compressor mounts. I had a similar call on a standard SxS.... many times the noise came and went with the door being opened or closed. Ironically, the customer was selling her house as well and thought it would be a problem. I wedged some aluminum foil under one of the mounts and the sound went away.... well at least until their house was sold

#274694 Sick of bad install jobs

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 18 November 2013 - 07:01 PM

i cracked a glass top due to a bad install. The installer used a splintered piece of broken flooring to support one leg of the range. So when I moved the range, the wood splintered completely causing the left side of the glass stove top to settle forcefully against the granite counter top. Well, I replaced the stove top at my expense. I have yet to complete uttering the 1 million worded gruesome and detailed curse I am heaping on that installer. The customer did, however, leave raving reviews on multiple review sites.

#274692 Whirlpool refrig ED2KHAXVQ01 ice dispenser not working

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 18 November 2013 - 06:47 PM

agreed... sears diagram only shows one microswitch but there are actually two. Those plastic mounting tabs break easily. There is a high probability this is your problem if you don't hear a click in the dispenser area when you press the actuator. The only concern I have is the click you hear under the fridge. Does the water dispenser work? If not, check the door switch as the sound could be from some form of interruptor.

#274690 Whirlpool refrig ED2KHAXVQ01 ice dispenser not working

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 18 November 2013 - 06:26 PM

I know there is at least one microswitch in the dispenser area. Check to see if one is for the ice dispenser. If so, check that switch for proper mounting as well as continuity when depressed.

#274632 Kitchenaid Oven/Microwave combo Model #KEHC309JSS07

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 18 November 2013 - 07:23 AM

Even though these boards are lying pieces of crap (this specific model once told me to "replace ecm" and after replacing it, I embarrassingly find out it was a bad thermal fuse instead.. thus the origin of my "lying pieces of crap" mantra), I agree with the others. At least testing it is free. But if your board is the lying piece of crap they usually prove to be, at least your customer will have two techs confirming it is the lying piece of crap board and not the probe. If it turns out to be the probe /wires, watch out. The board is only setting you up by creating false trust so to embarrass you with a big and expensive lie down the road.

#274630 Samsung Refrigerator RF267ABRS/XAA

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 18 November 2013 - 06:39 AM

Battleplan is already well documented in your manual and here: http://appliantology...shooting-guide/

First thing is to do is to NOT OPEN THE DOOR until you complete icemaker sensor and ice room sensor tests or unplug fridge until you check for existing error codes.

Second thing to do as with most Samsung models regardless of problem is to check for existing error codes then run diagnostics.

Then regardless of diagnostics check ice maker and ice room sensor from mainboard BEFORE YOU OPEN THE DOOR. (Yeah I shouted this twice since the urge is strong to instinctively open fridge doors immediately upon arrival... resist this urge)

In your manual, check out pages 58 for sensor testing, 64 for ice room sensor testing, 69 for ice room fan testing and -
70 for ice maker troubleshooting. btw if you have a flex tray im, temps should be 1°f or less.

#274592 Defrost issue old magic chef

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 17 November 2013 - 05:53 PM


#274454 GE Frige PFS22SBSBSS not cooling

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 16 November 2013 - 12:44 PM

Evaporator fan running? Is power going to the compressor? If so, I think your Condenser fan and compressor operation may be tied together. Check for a ptc relay problem. If no problem, test your Condenser fan motor. You can unplug the j2 connector from the board and see if compressor starts up. If it does, you may have to replace your board and a fan motor

#274445 GE fridge CSCP5UGXCFSS

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 16 November 2013 - 09:36 AM

no, the ff evap fan motor.... editing just in case someone jumps the gun an orders an evap. lol

#274426 GE fridge CSCP5UGXCFSS

Posted by DurhamAppliance on 16 November 2013 - 02:40 AM

I also emailed a question to a Ge trainer regarding these problematic dual evaps and their slight rise in temps in the ff section. He indicated that there have been problems with the ff evap fan motor and the sealing of the evap cover. He said to replace them both and that they came together as a kit. I could not find a part number for the kit and never did a follow-up. Maybe replacing both, kit or not, is a way to proceed. I have yet to find someone to try it and report.

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