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Member Since 09 Aug 2010
Offline Last Active May 17 2015 12:49 PM

#295543 Kenmore 41748102701 won't spin with full load, will with small.

Posted by rolandvz71 on 04 June 2014 - 10:36 PM

are the shocks in good condition...Sorry just read the shocks were okay

#295537 Kenmore 41748102701 won't spin with full load, will with small.

Posted by rolandvz71 on 04 June 2014 - 10:22 PM

Did you try running a diagnostic test?

#294886 Old Skol Whirlpool LAF5500W1 washer rebuild

Posted by rolandvz71 on 29 May 2014 - 04:32 PM

  If you



  If you do it that way, before reinstalling the support brackets, tighten transmission bolts finger tight only, set machine upright, then tighten bolts securely and then lay back down to install support brackets. This is to allow proper alignment with the centerpost bearing as per Whirlpool instructions. That's why I prefer pulling the cam bar and lowering the clutch shaft instead of lowering transmission. Don't have to loosen all transmission bolts, don't have to worry about losing the ball for the spin tube support bearing, don't have to worry about damaging centerpost or spin tube seals.



Eric thx for the input!

#294872 Old Skol Whirlpool LAF5500W1 washer rebuild

Posted by rolandvz71 on 29 May 2014 - 12:16 PM

okay so I decided  to remove the agitator and I researched removing a agitator and found this: http://appliantology...er-tool-wanted/


So made a vid of my version:

#294813 Old Skol Whirlpool LAF5500W1 washer rebuild

Posted by rolandvz71 on 28 May 2014 - 09:24 PM

Nice, good job cleaning it up. It will certainly last longer than any of the new machines on the market today.

Heard that!


Yes it does look in pretty good shape.  The belt is a little bit of a challenge if you have never done one.  You need to back out the slide that activates the spin or engages the clutch as it were.  Then you can lower the pin that it goes trough in order to provide space for removing the belt.  I think you need to take the pump lose to provide space for the belt as well and you need to loosen the moter to allow slack in the belt.  You also need to remove one of the transmission bolts and remove a little spacer to allow for the belt to pass trough the space you get when you take it out. Then I think you can loosen the belt from all the pulleys and work it out.  Installation is the reverse.  If you have never done one you may want to lay the washer on it's side but it can be done by tipping it up against the wall and laying on your back.  Good luck


maybe someone can point you to a video that shows how it's done.



Before I posted about replacing the belt I fig there was an easier way, but upon looking @ it and reading your post looks like not.

If I have time tomorrow I will be doing a water test I'm crossing my fingers and and hope it does not leak!

#276858 Whirlpool washer WTW5600VQ0 walks across room in spin cycle

Posted by rolandvz71 on 08 December 2013 - 07:55 PM

I dont know what the part is called, but I have seen people move  a "new to them washer" and transpost the washer on its back (Kenmore/Whirlpool) and the plate that sits between the tub and tub wear pads gets throw off and will not sit right. All looks good, but this plate has a certain way it sits.... This will cause the washer tub to the skae ralttle and roll.  

#276293 Noise during spin--Maytag SAV515DAWW washer ----- SEE VIDEO

Posted by rolandvz71 on 04 December 2013 - 08:18 AM

I think its the snubber ring, but wanna get a message boards opinion.....now when I spray a food grade silcone base lube on the snubber ring the noise does go away for a few seconds, but will resurface back again which is making think its the snubber ring.


The noise only occurs during the spin cycle.




#263550 YORK H2RC042S06B condenser unit R-22 system

Posted by rolandvz71 on 04 August 2013 - 04:04 PM

compressor making a noise


gauge readings

Low Side 65psi  ---pegged out

HIGH side 90-95psi    110-118psi


When quite Low side is 65psi and HIGH side is 110-118psi indoor temp @ air register is  83F

When LOUD Low side is PEGGED out and HIGH side is 90-95psi indoor temp @ air register is 88F


Quite and LOUD compressor running cycles


Quite running about 1.2 minutes

LOUD running 15-20 seconds


I have my EPA cert to handle and buy R-22


I dont do this for a living so I maybe missing something so simple any suggestions.......?

#256212 GE Front Loader Washer (model # not legible)

Posted by rolandvz71 on 28 May 2013 - 11:55 PM

It was the hose.....it was not seated on the level switch correctly!

#255282 YORK H2RC042S06B condenser unit

Posted by rolandvz71 on 20 May 2013 - 09:55 AM

It was the breaker outside that feeds the unit...getting 240V incoming and w/breaker closed getting 120V. Replaced breaker w/one from a big box store and she is now off and running! THX for  the good advice!

Attached Files

#255248 YORK H2RC042S06B condenser unit

Posted by rolandvz71 on 19 May 2013 - 09:30 PM

OK I am by fair a A/C tech but I do understand voltage to a certain point.



Outside contactor energizes and nothing is happening....evaporator fan is running inside but no cold air


Checked Compressor and it OHMs out good

Also checked the fan and it too checks out good!


Checked voltage @ the main panel 120v to GND (L1 and L2) and 240v across (L1 to L2)---good!


Now I followed this vid    and here is what I get.....


w/the contactor energized (inside fan running) w/24V @ the coil --- voltage readings @ L1 & L2 @ the bottom of contactor 120v to GND but phase to phase I get 0v. @ the top of the energized contactor  I get 120v to ground, but phase to phase I get 0v. I should be getting 240v on top and bottom of a energized contactor.... right?? The only hmmm I hear is the contactor....no motor trying to start--- nothing!


So I think I have a problem w/my FLUKE meter....Soo I check the voltage @ the panel--- 120v to ground (L1 and L2) and 220v phase to phase (L1 to L2).


Now get this.....when I shutdown the system down OFF @ the thermostat the contactor DE-energizes I get 120v on one of the incoming lines and 0v on the other incoming line.....what the heck is up!?!


Is there something in the evaporator unit I am missing??


1st thing I thought it was was a bad capacitor just because it seemed to show all the signs of a bad cap ...its happened before so I took it upon myself to replace it and I still get nothing....


Its getting hotter in SE Texas need some guidance! 


Thx all~~!

#254591 GE WBSR3000G1WS Washer: Open Fuseable Link

Posted by rolandvz71 on 12 May 2013 - 09:31 PM

Thx for the tip! That will be a new addition to my toolbox!


LRA is 6.1a so 3x that would be a round 18a to cover the surge in amperage....  so a 15-20amp breaker should be fine....correct?

OK the motor came in---- so I used a 15amp breaker inline before installing the fusible link and the motor took off!!

So it was the motor all along!

My guess a electrical surge or lighting strike took the motor so I'm gonna suggest a surge protector for this washer!


Thx for everyone on this topic!

#250404 Maytag SAV5701AWW washing machine tranny popping?

Posted by rolandvz71 on 18 March 2013 - 08:55 PM

Came home and found some water on floor......I expected the worst (tub seals)......turned out the pump stripped and was not pumping like it should. The basket was spinning and centrifugal force forced some of the water up over the outer tub and found its way on to the floor. Replaced pump and off and running again!

#250402 Kenmore Washing Machine Model 110.26812690

Posted by rolandvz71 on 18 March 2013 - 08:46 PM

Ok I have found my problem.......


Looks like water is leaking from tranny shaft....I see water cascading down from the clutch area


So I found these seals




 might as well replace both


I know how to take off the tranny  but I never have replaced any of these seals.....is this job difficult?


Thx for the input

#248791 Maytag washer MAV7700AWW transmission threads messed up

Posted by rolandvz71 on 19 February 2013 - 11:05 PM

sorry for the delay.....tool worked like it should! Another addition to my toolbox!

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