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Exploding Fist

Member Since 03 Dec 2010
Offline Last Active Feb 04 2013 01:43 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: GE PDS18SBMRBS not cooling

28 January 2013 - 03:02 AM

So thanks again to everyone who gave good responses to this post. I took your advice and decided to wait it out (hoping it was actually fixed) keeping an eye on it so I could save the stuff inside if the fan seized again. Two nights ago I heard some grinding, and last night I stopped hearing the fan at all. Luckily I moved everything in the fridge while it was still cold.


As suggested, I left everything plugged in and opened her up to take a look as to what was going on inside. Originally I was imaging a small piece of ice stuck in the blades, but it appears as you've suggested, there is an ice rink at the bottom of the fan with it stuck in the middle, and the entire drain is frozen. Here is the picture at this point. It's hard to see the ice, but the fan is embedded in it:




Sorry for the large size, but I figured you'd want a decent resolution to get a good view of the coil. My observation is a lot of frost evenly distributed over the coils. The missing frost up front on the top is from me removing the cover.


I was able to melt the ice by hitting it with a blow dryer. The ice melted at the top fairly quickly, but it took about 15 minutes of blowing for the drain melt allowing the water to flow down (at least we know the drain works?). 


Does the picture and description help the diagnosis? What seems to be the problem, how can I confirm, and what parts would I need to fix it? Keep in mind I'm by no means a fridge expert (this fix was my first time opening one up), so pointing out what something is and does would be important (although I've already learned a lot more than I knew) ;)


Cactus Bob suggested turning on the defrost timer, but I'm not exactly sure how to do that. Also, what does that actually do, and how would I test to see if it's working? I'm guessing these are the parts we will need to test? http://www.repaircli...ing-PDS18SBMRBS


Thanks a ton!

In Topic: GE PDS18SBMRBS not cooling

09 December 2012 - 07:56 PM

I use some sort of extreme foil tape found in the hvac section at home depot. I guess the most important thing is for it to be waterproof and freeze resistant.


and following up on the damper issue, make sure air can blow across the evap and  into the fridge and any air return ports must also be free of ice/obstruction. Put all temp controls on recommended setting


That's exactly what I was talking about. I have lots of that, so that's what I've used. Seems to stick well and make a good seal.



when reading your post it looks like you turned off the fridge and defrosted it ?


if this is true , it's a bad idea . now your back to zero , with no way to know anything


was the coil frozen up ? you have no way to know , you defrosted it

was the fan jammed ? you have no way to know , you defrosted it

was the drain blocked with ice ? you have no way to know you defrosted it

do you have a good frost pattern ? again you don' know

does the defrost heater work properly ? without a frozen coil even if you put it in defrost , it's not going to come on , so who knows !


never , never unplug a fridge that is not working properly , you loose the clues that tell you whats wrong


the best you can do is place the cover back on , plug it in , wait 24-48 hours then do the following


place the defrost timer in defrost , remove cover and be sure defrost heater is working

leave in defrost , within 30 mins it will come out of defrost , if not you got a bad timer

if it does , most likely you got a good timer

when your done , run a little water down the drain just to make sure it's working


Point taken. This is my first fridge repair so I focused on what made sense to be the problem based on my linked post. 


I've given everything a really good cleaning, and put everything back together, then plugged her back in. I can feel cool air coming out of the vent at the top of the fridge, so it looks like it might be working. With everything together, would their be another obvious way to determine if the defrost cycle is working without opening her up again, or is that my only option to be sure it's functioning (and wont spoil food over christmas)?


Newbie question. Where does the water go when it is spilled down the drain?


For now I've put in an ice cube tray into the freezer and a beer into the fridge as a first test. If all goes well, I'll drink the beer emot-v.gif

In Topic: GE PDS18SBMRBS not cooling

09 December 2012 - 06:04 PM

I had to look what that was :)

How can I tell if it is open or not? The bottom is off right now so I doubt there would be much airflow to determine if air is coming through. After taking the bottom off I found a chunk of ice below the fan, even 24 hours after unplugging it, so I'm guessing it was much worse before. 


Any idea on the tape question? I have some proper duct tape (the aluminium kind) if that would work well, or better. Otherwise I'm off to home depot ;)

In Topic: My Maytag MER5875QCS is making me cry

08 December 2010 - 11:27 AM

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In Topic: My Maytag MER5875QCS is making me cry

08 December 2010 - 12:14 AM

So I received the replacement relays in the mail, and got to work. I replaced the 2 relays that turn on and off the bake and convection and elements (the brown and yellow wires connected into the green plug). If you look at my original picture, you'll also notice a burn mark on the board. This burn mark was the connection to the relays frying across the connection point, which means that the old relays were not even receiving power. Since I already bought the relays, I replaced them anyway to avoid have to remove and open the board again, along with one other that was near the path of destruction. I reconnected the relay section of the board using what I call a "solder band-aid", which is a spread of solder across the burned area to create continuity.

Everything works now!

To be used as reference for anyone who is looking to do this type of troubleshooting in the future, to give something back I've taken the time to create a map of the area I was working on/diagnosing. Since most of the time these boards fail the bake/broil/convection elements are what die, I'm assuming this is a common problem with these ovens.

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A big thank you to everyone who posted guidance.

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