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Exploding Fist

Member Since 03 Dec 2010
Offline Last Active Feb 04 2013 01:43 AM

Topics I've Started

GE PDS18SBMRBS not cooling

09 December 2012 - 03:14 PM

I'm posting to track my repair. The symptoms appear to be common with this model, where the freezer appears to be functioning fine, but the fridge compartment isn't cooling at all. Searching around I found this post for my model http://appliantology...bs-not-cooling/ which suggests that the evaporator fan might be clogged with ice. This would make sense since I recall not long ago the sound of what my best guess would be a fan banging against an object at high speed (loud grinding). My guess is that eventually the fan seized. I unplugged the fridged and cleaned the inside. There was a strong smell of rotten milk coming from the fridge when it was off, so I made sure to do a thorough job. 


Removing the front panel (part 36) was a bit of a pain as I had to wedge the side of the fridge open with a screw driver to allow it to come out. Once out I noticed what appears to be sludge or mold underneith. Here is a picture.





I carefully removed the foam covering the evaporator coils after removing some clear tape holding it down, trying to be careful not to break the foam. I powered on the fridge and observed the fan spinning without issues. I'm fairly certain I couldn't hear it spinning when the fridge was warm, so it's likely that the problem resolved itself with just melting everything in the unit.




My next steps are to clean everything to get rid of the sludge and put everything back together. Hopefully the defrost timer isn't broken, and this is a simple repair. The question I have is:


1. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in here?

2. Do you spot anything else wrong that I need to take a look at, or is there anything else I should test?

3. What is the name of the tape that is holding down the foam, and is it important I use that tape to seal it?




My Maytag MER5875QCS is making me cry

03 December 2010 - 01:34 PM

So I have a small story to tell you. We were using our convection oven to cook something on a cold winters night a few days ago. In the middle of cooking, the breaker in the basement that the oven is connected to snapped, along with the main power house breaker. Once I realized it was only my house that lost power, and restored it, we discovered that our trusty Maytag oven no longer baked, broiled, or convected (is that a word?). Everything else seemed to be functioning normally, and the control clock seemed to be trying to bake things, staying at 100 degrees forever!

I whipped out my trusty multimeter and began running through the electrical diagram provided with the Range to determine if everything was working properly. I tested that the bake, broil, and convection elements had continuity and that they looked okay when reading their Ohms (I can't remember, exactly, but it was aroung 15 each). I tested each of the wires from the control computer to the elements, and discovered that one of them didn't have connectivity (the broil line). Oddly enough, the broil and the convection lines split off of the same wire at some point, and they didn't have connectivity to one and other, so it was obvious there was an issue between the split and the broil element. Hazah! I found that the wire was burnt straight though. I cut the wire on each end of the burn taking a bit extra to ensure everything was fresh, and properly reattached the wires. Sweet, the broil element is working again!!!... but that's it... :(

Even though I fixed the broil element, the bake/convection elements were not turning on. I switched to AC voltage test mode, plugged in the Range, and told the oven to bake me some fictional cookies. I touched the multimeter to the back of the bake element, and discovered that it was not receiving any electricity. The same for the convection element when I instructed the oven to convect me some fictional cookies. The oven did heat up a bit, but only because about every 30-45 seconds the Range would provide power to the broil element for about 3 seconds. I'm assuming this is just to assist the oven in heating up.

I'm not 100% sure on where I am to go from here. The bake/convection elements seem fine, although the left pronge on the back of the convection element does seem to be electrically chard slightly. Even if it was bad, that wouldn't explain why it was not receiving any electricity. The connections from the control computer to the elements have continuity, and the only thing I can think could be the problem is the control computer/clock itself could be busted from the surge. Great...

I'd be rather bummed to discover that after spending $200 on the most expensive part on the range, that it was not the problem. So, I look to the Samari to provide me with other possible things I could look at that may be causing this problem that I may have overlooked due to my lack of experience, unless you all agree that the control clock is the problem here.

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