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Member Since 06 Dec 2010
Offline Last Active Jun 17 2012 05:33 PM

Topics I've Started

DCS RGS-364GDSS-L range one burner sparking continuously

26 January 2012 - 03:39 PM

DCS--does that stand for Dammned Cantankerous Stove?

The owner called complaining that when ANY of the 4 burners was used, there was a constant sparking. After reading this very helpful post:


I ordered and installed a replacement spark module. Partial joy--now three burners work normally and only one has the constant sparking. I have disassembled and cleaned that burner at least three times. Still tick tick tick. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Thanks oh wise ones!


Fisher Paykel GWL10US error code 131 rotor position sensor

09 December 2011 - 03:09 PM

G'day oh knowledgeable ones,

I have run into the RPS error code and know that I need to check out the rotor position sensor wiring and the sensor itself. My questions are:

1. Does the whole machine need to be disassembled (basked out, tub out, invert tub, etc) or can I get access by just tipping up the machine to go at it from underneath?

2. Does the rotor have to be removed to get access to the RPS, or can it be removed with the rotor in place?

3. The FP_GWL03US Service states the following on page 57:

13. Unscrew the rotor by using a 5/8 “ (16mm) socket.
Lift the rotor clear, and place in a plastic bag.
What is it that I am unscrewing with the 5/8" socket exactly? The plastic-appearing "nut" at the center of the rotor? And do I just hold the rotor still by hand while I am doing this?

This is the first Fisher-Paykel that I have worked on, so please be gentle....

Tink :tinkerbell:

GE range CS980SN1SS removing control panel

05 December 2011 - 01:13 PM

Oh great masters, can you clue me in on how to remove the freakin control panel from this unit? I removed approx. 10 screws underneath the control panel, and I have pulled up and out to the point I know I am about to bend some of that pretty stainless steel. No budge. It is loose along the bottom, but there is something holding it at the top that I can't see. I thought it might just be greasy crud, but I cleaned out the crack between the panel and the cooktop with a putty knife, and still no budge.

Thanks a million,
Tink :tinkerbell:

Maytag Neptune stacked MLE2000AYW won't fill

08 November 2011 - 01:20 PM

Oh venerable masters, this bewitched machine has humbled me (I probably needed it :unsure: ). The washer will not fill, neither cold nor hot, in any temperature setting, in any cycle. Pressing the start button just causes the washer to start tumbling (at least that is what it sounds like).

Of course I checked water supply hoses, they were fine. Took a gamble and replaced the uber-complicated water fill valve thru that teeny tiny opening in the back of the cabinet--no joy. Same behavior.

Checked pressure switch (which I can't even lay eyeballs on, can only blindly feel from back panel opening), air tube is connected properly and can't feel any obvious damage to it. Got continuity between harness wire PU34 at machine control connector P1 pin 1 and harness wire BU32 at timer connector plug T12, which to me says the pressure switch is closed as it should be when the tub is empty.

Eyeballing the machine control board reveals no signs of anything burnt out.

Help me oh wise ones!


Tip for thawing out freezer drain

22 July 2011 - 08:18 PM

I thought that I would share something I discovered lately...I have been seeing a lot of frozen up drain lines in top freezer fridges. I tried using a turkey baster with hot water to clear the line, with mixed results. Time consuming and messy. Then I thought of that old Water Pik in the back of the bathroom cabinet. Next time I had to clear one of these frozen drain lines, I got out the Water Pik, filled the tank with the hottest water I could get out of the faucet, and used the little jet on the ice block. This opened it up in about 3 seconds, and only added a little bit of water to the already soggy job.

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