Jump to content


Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


prairiestr

Member Since 21 Dec 2010
Offline Last Active Oct 02 2014 09:57 AM

#277983 Maytag elect. range CRE8600ACL

Posted by prairiestr on 17 December 2013 - 01:54 PM

Customer decided to replace oven.

Probably the right move, 20+ yr old, parts nla,

Gotta know when to say when. :deal:




#276483 Maytag elect. range CRE8600ACL

Posted by prairiestr on 05 December 2013 - 03:31 PM

applianceman,

I will check that out.




#274383 Tappan elect. range TEF365BEWA

Posted by prairiestr on 15 November 2013 - 07:16 PM

Update:

Installed control, all works perfect.

Thanks for the help.




#257083 Whirpool front load water coming out of the soap load area

Posted by prairiestr on 04 June 2013 - 09:01 PM

Pull dispenser tray out and check the housing.

I had one last week with a one inch crack/ hole in it.

Looked like tub must have been way off balance and smashed into housing.




#253035 GE Frig PFSF5NJWA Not cooling

Posted by prairiestr on 25 April 2013 - 12:11 PM

Compressor not running, or even trying.

Condensor fan is running constantly, Evap fan also running.

Can't find a tech sheet anywhere on this machine.

Help please!




#245975 Jenn Air Gas Range, All (5) burners keep sparking after lite

Posted by prairiestr on 09 January 2013 - 09:31 PM

I'm probably not doing this right but here goes. (quote from the samurai)

 

 

Not really.  Let's break it down.  Come with me now on a wild romp through the theory of operation of electrode gas flame detection...
 
If you look closely at a finger of burner flame you will see that it is clearly made up of three separate elements: 1. Inner fuel rich cone  2. Ionized blue outer cone with current carrying capabilities  and 3. Outer air rich mantle.  When gas combined with air; burned energy is released in the form of heat and light. When the gas / air mixture is controlled, the outer blue cone will actually carry electrical current similar to a wire.
 
If we place a metal probe into this “Ionized Plume” and apply a voltage between it and the burner, current will flow. An important characteristic of a burner/flame/electrode assembly is its ability to mainly pass current in one direction. It behaves as a one way valve or rectifier.
 
Flame Rectification systems make use of this directional characteristic when detecting a good flame to distinguish it from leakage currents that can arise due to moisture contamination, soiled igniter tip, poorly grounded burner spreader ring / burner head, cracked igniter insulation or poor house ground.
 
An AC voltage is applied to the electrode from the spark module and the resultant current flow which is greater in one direction than the other, is electronically detected. This current is very small, about one microamp (one millionth of an amp).
 
The minimum recommended flame current measured under all likely conditions in an installation should be 1.0 microamps for re-igniters. When a burner flame is present the Ionized outer cone will be producing a small DC current. This current is known as Flame Current. The flame current has to be at a certain level to allow voltage from the spark module to flow efficiently.
 
The accurate placing of the electrode in the flame is important. This igniter tip needs to be perfectly located in the ionized outer blue cone to effectively send and then detect current flow.
 
To break it down further, the spark module acts as a simple capacitor. It saves voltage like a sponge until it can hold no more. It will save and release this voltage approximately 3 times per second. When the voltage is released it follows the spark wire until reaches the spark electrode tip. The built up voltage wants to leave the tip and move to the point of least resistance. In a healthy situation this will be the burner spreader ring. From the burner spreader ring the voltage flow will pass through the burner head, burner tube, chassis and to ground. An interruption of this current path will cause the spark system to misbehave, such as with the continuous clicking problem.  

 


 




#245968 Jenn Air Gas Range, All (5) burners keep sparking after lite

Posted by prairiestr on 09 January 2013 - 08:45 PM

Probably a ground problem. The samurai gave the best explaination of how these things work that I've ever read. I'll try to find it for you. Basicly, Hi voltage travels from module to ignitor, when flame lites it travels (conducts) thru burner to ground. mudule senses voltage change and shuts off.
(I think) Anyway, check and clean all connetions from burners/tubes valves to chassis ground.


#244072 Ken. 110.21082000

Posted by prairiestr on 12 December 2012 - 04:29 PM

kdog,<br />I have not pulled the wash plate yet, but when i put it in the nutate mode wash plate moves,<br />only slightly once or twice, then it defaults to C1 error.<br />I think you are correct about the u-joint.


#243784 G.E. ZGU36L6H4SS Cooktop

Posted by prairiestr on 08 December 2012 - 01:32 PM

Samurai,
That was AWESOME!!
The best explanation I've heard on the proper operation of these systems.
I feel smarter already!
Thank you, again.


#243708 Kenmore Washer 110.27092602

Posted by prairiestr on 07 December 2012 - 01:33 PM

Installed bearing and seal yesterday, all went well.

Thanks for all the help. 




#243426 Kenmore Washer 110.27092602

Posted by prairiestr on 02 December 2012 - 03:37 PM

Thank you Samirai.

Great video. Should be very helpful.




#243323 Bosch D/W SHU43CO7UC/22

Posted by prairiestr on 29 November 2012 - 07:29 PM

jumptrout,

I followed your advice and installed jumper wire from power coming in (grey?)  to red heater wire, then used amp probe to look for current,(10amps) this told me other components were functional and the problem must in the control.




#243318 GE range JBP35DM1WW

Posted by prairiestr on 29 November 2012 - 05:39 PM

Replaced control, all is well!
Thanks again.


#243317 Bosch D/W SHU43CO7UC/22

Posted by prairiestr on 29 November 2012 - 05:37 PM

Thanks for all the help.
Replaced the control board/timer, all is working fine now!
Thanks again.




#240025 GE WJRE5550K2WW

Posted by prairiestr on 01 October 2012 - 04:55 PM

Is the lid switch closed?





FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics