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Wingerman

Member Since 01 Jan 2011
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:35 PM

#283337 Fridgidair fridgerators,reviews

Posted by Wingerman on 03 February 2014 - 07:45 PM

My personal vote on Frig-a-dare is "No". Too many sealed system issues and burned out compressors. My vote would be LG/Whirlpool/GE.




#279293 Oven Does Not Stay On.

Posted by Wingerman on 29 December 2013 - 11:56 AM

Normally sensors are about 1100 ohms at room temp. But the range of temperatures is important. Temp range (resistance variations) can be checked from the ERC board with sensor in place AND power OFF!. Repair Clinic sells a good Polder Thermometer with an extended metal tip. compare resistance with the given temperature to check the "range" of resistances the sensor should measure.

 

With power off, don't forget to check for continuity from the ERC board to the sensor. Bare/shorted wires thru the metal cabinet happen.




#279210 GE Refrigerator Compressor Will Not Start

Posted by Wingerman on 28 December 2013 - 07:58 PM

When checking from each terminal to ground ( a short condition) don't forget to check on the highest meter setting (say Rx100 or M ohms if auto ranging meter) and work your way down to the lowest (say Rx1) ohm setting. Many times a short to ground will not be a "dead short" (Rx1) but will appear in the Mega ohm range. Shorts between windings often exhibit high resistance that the lowest meter setting will not catch.




#253153 FEB386WECH Frigidaire oven won't heat past 100

Posted by Wingerman on 26 April 2013 - 01:56 PM

Are you testing the oven probe (sensor) over a range of temperatures to get the ohm value? Room temp will often check fine, but it's the range of temps  where the failure shows up.




#252631 Frigidaire Refrigerator Not Cooling

Posted by Wingerman on 18 April 2013 - 07:32 PM

One of the better guides= Sealed System Diagnosis--Whirlpool Training Publication R-105. Also, Whirlpool Publication R-65, found in Appliance  Repair Manual Stash.




#252611 LG fridge ice clumping in bin. LFX31925ST/02

Posted by Wingerman on 18 April 2013 - 03:35 PM

Air Leak> Is the duct assembly tight?

Temp Problem/Infiltration> Compartment below 10 degrees F?

Premature Harvest> At least 120 minutes?

Software Programing> Water overfilling? 




#251838 Fisher-Paykel GWL15 WA37T26GW2 Washer: No Hot Water

Posted by Wingerman on 08 April 2013 - 07:47 PM

Not an expert on these, but my experience from my notes:

 

1) Made sure that the thermistor is positioned all the way to the back of the inlet tube--check it in its elbow position.

2) These units have a "controlled Cold" option; make sure water temp entering is at least 60 degrees (if not, program for "uncontrolled cold")

3) Hot water entering temp needs to be at least 150 degrees--check hot water supply.

4) Should have 24vDC to inlet valves on call from main board/60-65 ohms on valve coils

5) 10K Ohms on thermistor/5vDC from main board.

6) Connectors tight and clean.

 

Normally, 1, 5, and 6 are the problems I've run into; otherwise, if voltages from board are not there, after checking the settings on the unit, suspect the main board.




#251658 New dryer works great, but fills house with a hum noise

Posted by Wingerman on 05 April 2013 - 08:03 PM

Loose armature=60 hertz hum! In the business we call that "pull in"




#251575 Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6700TW1 Fills on Normal wash only.

Posted by Wingerman on 04 April 2013 - 03:55 PM

With a LF (Long Fill) error code, the easiest thing to try is calibrating the machine before going further with troubleshooting; if it won't calibrate and you still get LF on cycles other than "Normal Cycle", then I would start to suspect the board. However, rule out the less expensive stuff first. Run test #6 (calibration) and test #7 (drain and re-circulation pumps).




#251523 New dryer works great, but fills house with a hum noise

Posted by Wingerman on 03 April 2013 - 08:01 PM

Also, a possibility (if it's a gas dryer)----gas valves on some WPs now causing a "hum". 




#251520 Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6700TW1 Fills on Normal wash only.

Posted by Wingerman on 03 April 2013 - 07:31 PM

Have you calibrated the pressure transducer--Test #6 ?




#251519 New Cabrio

Posted by Wingerman on 03 April 2013 - 07:22 PM

An easy first test would be to check to see if the bolt on the motor rotor is tight; seen many of these with a loose bolt that made noises before an F-50 (Motor stalled) error code was generated. A common mass-produced defect on this machine. 




#251468 New dryer works great, but fills house with a hum noise

Posted by Wingerman on 02 April 2013 - 10:44 PM

Two things seem possible: First, it is possible the dryer is generating electromagnetic interference--i.e a bad motor or control, or Second, (which seems more likely) the dryer is "harmonizing" (syncing) with some other piece of electronic equipment in the house. This is why some appliances that are electronic now have "line filters" to stop unwanted interference between electronic devices. Unplug all other electronic devices in the house and then try running the dryer. If the hum goes away, then you've found the source--electromagnetic interference.




#251400 Troubleshooting A Refrigerator That Intermittently Warms Up

Posted by Wingerman on 02 April 2013 - 03:21 PM

Thanks for the video--always appreciate sharing information.




#251367 Best Laundry Pair?

Posted by Wingerman on 02 April 2013 - 05:46 AM

I cannot dispute you if by "durable" you mean "durable frontloader. " If not, then you have some really tame frat houses in your area. Here, the out of control trust fund babies who occupy the frat houses around Duke Univeristy, make short work out of all of the newer high tech frontloaders. I've found that beer, urine and even vomit make good electrical conductors and can do amazing things to control boards and hall sensors. Have you ever been on a call to repair a frontloader being used as a lacrosse goal?

 

Three weeks ago, frat house tried to polish rocks in a front loader. Of course, basket wouldn't turn (that was the call). Wonder why it wouldn't turn?    







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