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Member Since 12 Jan 2011
Online Last Active Today, 11:10 AM

#289677 Preventative Maintenance for a 13 year old Frigidaire Gallery front load washer

Posted by DanInKansas on 01 April 2014 - 04:43 PM

If you've kept a front-loader working for 13 years, you are doing all the right things. But, since you ask: 


1)  Keep your door open between loads. 


2)  Be paranoid about your pockets.  I get a lot of problems in front loaders from pebbles, pennies, dimes, guitar picks, etc., etc. 


3)  Don't slam the door. 


4)  Check your standpipe, make sure it's draining the water well.  If water starts to back up the standpipe it can back into the machine and cause awful smells. 


5)  What applianceman said above about soap:  rust and mold are usually due to oversudsing.  Most people are using too much detergent. 


6)  Be paranoid about your pockets.  Yes, I said that twice. 

#289532 kenmore washer

Posted by DanInKansas on 31 March 2014 - 07:55 AM

Tip it up. 5/16" head removes the two screws holding in the plastic cover over the belt and pulleys.  Take the belt off.  Take the main pulley in your hand and see if it has any wobble to it. A lot of these units didn't get enough loctite at the factory and the pulley nut works loose.  If that's the case you'll feel it with your hand easily, there's no guesswork involved. 


If that's the case, take the pulley nut off, smear the inside with blue loctite, reassemble and get the pulley nut grunt tight. 


If you tip it up, remove the plastic cover and everything is groovy with the pulley, you may have a gearcase issue, which will be a real bummer for the owners if it's out of warranty.  Pull the error codes, get it into manual component test and put it into high speed spin. You'll hear it  if it's the gearcase.


I did have one of these units where it was neither the pulley or the gearcase -- it was two quarters caught between the basket and the outer tub.  You'll hear that pretty easily when you move the basket by hand. 

#289381 Maytag A412 smoking motor

Posted by DanInKansas on 28 March 2014 - 06:53 PM

Have you checked to see if the water pump pulley turns easily by hand?


The timer or the motor speed selector switch on the control panel could be trying to energize the high and low windings at the same time.


I had this happen once on a stackable. You could check this by seeing if your amp draw is the same with the motor on and off the transmission.  If your amp draw is lower once the motor's off, the problem is downstream of the motor. 

#289312 Maytag A412 smoking motor

Posted by DanInKansas on 28 March 2014 - 05:35 AM

Standard disclaimer: I am just a jerk on the Internet who can't see what you're doing or find a parts drawing at the moment.


That said: you have two different motors with the same behavior.  Problem is not the motor. 


Washing machine motors generally overheat because they are trying to do work that exceeds their capacity.  I'd lay odds you have a problem in your transmission. 


You may want to look at a SpeedQueen washer while they are still on the market. They behave like the old Maytags, have a killer warranty and robust parts.  

#288574 Asko W620 not completing cycles

Posted by DanInKansas on 19 March 2014 - 09:12 PM

Don't overthink it.  Change your water valve. The trickling in of water is a slam dunk. 

#288481 Frigidaire door gasket/boot with inner spring - do I need a special tool?

Posted by DanInKansas on 19 March 2014 - 06:11 AM

Came here to say what ApplianceMan already said. 


One clamp is your anchor clamp. Get the spring in place, clamp it, and then keeping going in one direction as far as you can. Clamp there.  Now repeat the process on the other side. With those two in place, you should be able to stretch the spring up, over, and home. If not, take off the first clamp and get some more of the spring in place.


I have a theory that the engineers on the Frigidaire/Electrolux design team won't hire anyone until the candidate can prove that he really hates repair technicians. 

#288382 Chessedork attacks again

Posted by DanInKansas on 18 March 2014 - 01:35 PM

Conversation?  No problem.  Sometimes I don't know when to stop.  I'm full of it......

That is exactly my problem. I'm pretty talkative, and if I get talking to a customer, I can lose focus. Also unfortunately I have found some people mistake being friendly with being a pushover. 


Everybody has the best work method for their own personality and business.  I'm not saying to be unfriendly, I'm just saying that focusing on the machine has really helped me stay in charge of the service call. 


And as someone else pointed out, the most important piece of customer interaction is having the customer come in and run the machine so that they agree the machine is repaired before I ask for payment.  If they're not happy or still worried, then I don't want the check. 

#288338 Chessedork attacks again

Posted by DanInKansas on 18 March 2014 - 07:33 AM

I'm still green compared to most of you guys: including trade school I've only been doing this about four years now.  I'm still learning something new every day.


To Nick's point: a lot of my customers could be jackholes or great people. I don't know.  I deliberately run my calls in a way to minimize customer interaction.  I make eye contact and smile when I come in, and say "I understand I have a ____ to look at. Okay, please lead the way."  When I get to the machine, I have the customer describe the problem while I write down the model and serial. I'll ask whatever diagnostic questions that come to mind while I'm doing things like take the kick plate off.  


Then I say the magic words I say on every call: "okay. I'll get to work on this and I will call you over as soon as I know anything." The vast majority of customers then wander off and go do something else.


I think it's essential to project the attitude of "okay, this is your house but this part of it is now my work area."  Most people respond positively when you project leadership. 


A few customers will want to watch me work. I always tell them, "you are welcome to watch me work. I'm going to be concentrating on this, so if you have questions, it may take me a little while to respond to them. I'm not being unfriendly, I'm just focusing on my job."  


On any given call, I usually have about five minutes of human-to-human time. The fewer opportunities I give someone to be a jackass, the fewer jackasses I run into. 

#286744 Kitchenaid Dishwasher KUDS30FXB10

Posted by DanInKansas on 03 March 2014 - 11:25 PM

Every thing here points to water, as in "not enough water or not enough water in motion" I know the visual checks seemed okay but the error codes and actual results are going the opposite way. 


Do all of your basic water checks: house pressure, no kinks in the supply line, correct drain hose install, control board holds voltage for the correct time, no foreign objects under float switch's float, o-ring in the garden hose fitting didn't fall to pieces, all that good stuff.  


I recently had one of these where I had plenty of water, no clog in the sump, and terrible cleaning results, including undissolved detergent.  


The chopper had seized up and broken to bits.  During test cycle, I put an amp clamp on the motor and it read "1.28".  Tech sheet says "normally 250 watts."  Not finding anything else wrong, I replaced the pump and sump assembly and that got the job done. 

#286430 How to remove GE over-the-range microwave JVM250AL02

Posted by DanInKansas on 01 March 2014 - 01:09 PM

The procedure is "If you have any back issues whatsoever, get a second pair of hands, even if this results in other guys questioning your manhood and asking when your next gynecologist visit is."  The combination of leaning and twisting at an odd angle with weight can be a ticket to a few weeks of chiropractic care. 


On that model, it can be a little easier because it sits on a bracket.  You'll unplug it, take out the four mounting screws (these screws can strip if you look at them funny so don't use the highest speed on your driver) and then it should just slide off the rack.


I would undo the back screws first and then have someone putting a little pressure upwards on it as you undo the front screws.  This may be an over abundance of caution but it's a lot better than finding out the rack was botched on installation. 

#286316 Whirlpool GU1500XTLQ0 dishwasher gets stuck at 44 minutes

Posted by DanInKansas on 28 February 2014 - 06:23 AM

If you are putting the machine in rapid advance, sounds like you have a tech sheet.  Does this tech sheet give you error codes?  If so which ones are you getting?


Extended holds are often due to the machine thinking the water isn't hot enough.


1)  Check your drain hose, make sure you have an air gap and that water from your sink isn't backflowing into your dishwasher.


2)  Uncover your sump cover and look at your Optical Water Indicator.  Make sure it isn't covered by a load of sludge and hardened soap.


3)  The board should not have fried.  Have you checked your loads to chassis ground to make sure you don't have a short?  Have you checked continuity at the board for the heating element? Have you checked to make sure your board is getting hot through L1 and not Neutral? When you're done checking this, make sure the connection is tight when you put it back. 


4) While you have your door off,  look at your vent.  If you have a lot of gunk under the vent, the O-ring has cracked and it's letting hot steamy soapy air into the control board, which is no good. 


5) If all those things are fine, replace your OWI. I'd bet this is what's wrong. 

#286117 Dryer Vent Cleaning

Posted by DanInKansas on 26 February 2014 - 07:45 AM

I resisted cleaning dryer vents for a couple of years.  About a year ago, my current boss put a Lint Eater on my van and told me that it was now part of my business line, and my income absolutely has increased. Rental houses and older houses WILL have airflow problems, so I have a lot of opportunity and also FEWER CALLBACKS. 


1) Do get a mask. Spend a little extra and get something comfortable.


2) I don't get on roofs. If the exterior vent is to a roof, I refer out. 


3) Any actual venting problems, like directly venting into the attic, I refer to an HVAC person. 


If you measure the cost of the Lint Eater and the mask versus how much billing you'll add on, you're talking a crazy return on investment. 

#286040 DPSQ495GT0WW-- guttering flame, propane dryer

Posted by DanInKansas on 25 February 2014 - 04:38 PM

Found out today that the install crew tried to solve this problem yesterday by taking a gas dryer out of the basement, converting it to propane and driving it out to install.  Same problem with a different dryer; we advised customer to call gas company. 

#285906 Tools for Appliance Repair

Posted by DanInKansas on 24 February 2014 - 01:29 PM

Two tools I have that you don't list here: 


1) Reading glasses for the tiny type tech sheets.


2) 8" length of 2x4.  Comes in handy for propping up the front loaders where the kickplate screws are up at an angle, or propping up old Maytags and F-P while I look underneath. 

#285753 Maytag Dishwasher MDB8751AWW Drying Element Stays On

Posted by DanInKansas on 23 February 2014 - 03:24 PM

Based on that description and looking at the schematic I can't see any other explanation than a stuck relay on your circuit board. 

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