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Member Since 12 Jan 2011
Offline Last Active Oct 18 2014 10:05 AM

#305845 1930 to 1950? GE monogram Model RT-7

Posted by DanInKansas on 17 October 2014 - 05:47 PM

I learned this lesson the hard way.  These things make great bookcases, planters, repurposed pantries, something like that.  I wouldn't it if I were you. 

#305595 Wolf RT364G rangetop gas odor

Posted by DanInKansas on 14 October 2014 - 07:39 AM

Ha! Samurai and I posted almost the same thing.  I must be getting smarter. 

#305522 Bosch SHX56C05UC/46 not cleaning, cycles wrong, runs with door open

Posted by DanInKansas on 12 October 2014 - 06:44 PM

The description of the pump impeller movement is normal. 


What's abnormal is the unit running with the door open. The door switch should prevent that from happening. Under the kick plate by the drain pump you should have a schematic, If you trace that you might get a sense of how the motor is still getting power.  The door switch may have been stuck in the closed position, or there may be another way the circuit is completing. 

#305434 Whirlpool Dishwasher GU1500XTLS1 - Grease spots inside

Posted by DanInKansas on 11 October 2014 - 04:55 PM

So the one thing about the drain line theory that I will ask you is that this is a dishwasher with the drain line hooked up to a disposal.
It has been an excellent dishwasher for a family of 4 up until about 6 months ago when it started giving this problem.

Would I have seen something earlier if it was a drain line that was the suspect.

I really appreciate all of the input and help I have gotten from you folks.



Would you have seen something?  Maybe, maybe not.  Problems can develop slowly over time and something you don't notice this week can get really noticeable four weeks from now.


What I would say is that it is worth the effort to open the door and check to make sure that the dishwasher drain hose is higher at some point in its run than the place it drains to.  Poor drain hose routing is by far the most common cause I see of problems in wash quality, poor drain/no drain, extended cycle times, guckus covering the optical water indicator and probably a few other things I'm not thinking of off the top of my head.


Poor detergent use, especially overdosing on detergent, is another very common cause of problems in dishwashers. 

#305257 KFIS27XCBL3 -- IM optics

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 07:18 PM

Yes to the test and seated portions of the show.  I'm not sure how you'd bypass the optics in this model; this is not our old friend 4389102.  This is Part number: W10273549

Part number: W10273549


Edited to add: I replaced a number of these under warranty when they first came out.  However, I was wet behind the ears then.  The receiver now subs to a different part number, which in something this young always makes me raise an eyebrow.  

#305244 KFIS27XCBL3 -- IM optics

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 05:55 PM

Had a call on this for "no ice."


IM was full of ice, but had not dispensed.


Put the machine into diagnostics, board reported the ice maker was "full or not present" with the bin in the door and no ice in the bin. 


I took the bin out, put it back in and redid the test, the screen read "bill not full and present".  Took unit out of diagnostic and it dumped and filled. 


Today received a "no ice" call.  


Is there any reason not to replace the optics?  Anyone run into something obscure on this like frost over the optics, bad main boards, or something on those lines?  

#305235 Should Appliances be plugged into GFI outlets?

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 05:10 PM

Went out the the other day on a call where the remodelers had put the gas stove, the dishwasher and the kitchen counter GFCI all on the same circuit. 


I already knew the answer to this question but didn't want to get into "well my electrician said..."  


So I called Whirlpool Techline, put the guy on speaker phone with the customer in the room, told him what I saw and he said, "absolutely do not have these appliances on the same circuit and absolutely do not put either one on a GFCI circuit." 


For what it's worth Whirlpool/Maytag will explicitly tell you to keep the dishwasher off the GFCI. 

#305223 Whrilpool French Door WRF989SDAF Dual Evaportors

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 02:45 PM

Hey, on the units you were out on with the sealing problem -- were those in the same serial # run as the problem evaporators or were those outside that run?  I ask because our Wpool regional sales rep is promising us that the problems are fixed on these units and that they now have a "normal warranty claim history."  (Boss has told him he's no longer putting dual evaps on the floor until the problems are worked out.)

#305194 Fisherpaykel Dishdrawer (model # tag is unreadable)

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 08:19 AM

When I worked over in Kansas City, I dealt with a lot of Fisher Paykel dishdrawers. If you are running into a number of these, it can help to memorize the tests for "filling" and then "draining".  The fill valve on these go bad quite a lot, and the tiny rotor gets chewed up fairly easily.  Memorizing these two tests will help you get the majority of failures on these. I used to carry a dual valve and a rotor/impeller as truck stock. 

#305065 Old refer -- nnt156ga -- correct reassembly of front, mullion, false bottom

Posted by DanInKansas on 07 October 2014 - 03:14 PM

Okay, for anyone who ever comes across this post: the false bottom will get pushed upward by the defrost failure.  Even when thawed, the false bottom still doesn't quite want to line up.  When I took the mullion heater off, I slid the bottom out and pressed it back, pressing down and forward, making sure it lined up in the narrow groove along the sides and back of the unit.  After that reassembly was a cinch and now it closes great.  

#304792 samsung washer wf511abw/xaa no power

Posted by DanInKansas on 04 October 2014 - 08:59 AM

Free advice is worth what you pay for it, but: the MEMS sensor is designed to reduce vibration.  That burned out and now you're having water level sensing issues. I am wondering if your machine is struggling to get the water out. 


1) Check your detergent use. 2 tablespoons of liquid He detergent = 1 normal sized load. Most people use too much and the consequences are endless and come in all shapes and sizes.  (viz John63's signature block) 


2)  Have you cleared your pump?  Samsung makes this easy to do.


3) Do you have 4" to 6" of drain hose in your standpipe? Any more than that is a bad thing. 


4)  Check the rubber boot/gasket between the lip of the tub.  Stuff accumulates in there like hair or small socks that can make draining difficult. 


You may have checked all of this already but once I get two problems in short order with one machine, I start wondering if there's a root cause. 

#304757 MHWE201YW00 maytag washer

Posted by DanInKansas on 03 October 2014 - 05:57 PM

Pour some water into the drum. Take the pressure hose off the switch.  Blow into it and make sure you can hear bubbles.  Suck some water up to make sure you don't have holes somewhere. 


Yeah, it tastes really gross.


Edited to add: I posted without checking your error code.  Are you sure this isn't a bad water valve?  This sounds like a "long fill" error code, which is almost always due to a water valve that won't open all the way.

#304754 GE sxs refer TFX26CPDAWW -- ice production events

Posted by DanInKansas on 03 October 2014 - 05:21 PM

Okay, went out on a call back and solved the mystery.  Some knucklehead*  went out and put the fill tube right up against the fill cup, so that water froze up and then overflowed.  When the fill tube length was corrected, and the IM test cycled, every thing went great. 



* That would be me. 

#304724 Whirlpool Duet Steam Washer WFW9500TW01

Posted by DanInKansas on 03 October 2014 - 04:54 AM

Had one of these recently doing the same thing. Called Whirlpool Techline, what they told me worked for me: 


1) You'll probably have to replace the CCU as well as the pressure switch.  While you're waiting for it to arrive, try the following:


2) Unplug the machine. Unplug the pressure switch. Look to see if any of the prongs on the pressure switch wire harness have been mashed up against each other. Whirlpool tells me that because the effort required to get out the harness, guys are mashing the leads against each other. If they are mashed against each other, straighten them out with a small flat blade.


3) Empty out the pump so that your pressure switch is starting from absolute empty.


4) Make sure your drain hose isn't any  more than 4 to 6 inches into the standpipe. 


5) Make sure your machine is the only load on its circuit. 


In my case, I replaced the CCU first because I had the infamous "SUD" code flashing as soon as water began coming into the dispenser. My customer got 3 loads done and then the F35 reappeared. I did the steps above, then replaced the pressure switch, and it's working fine now. 

#304477 Samsung Refrigerator Mod#RF4287HARS/XAA CANT REMOVE DISPENSER

Posted by DanInKansas on 30 September 2014 - 07:39 AM

Try this thread, where I ran into this issue:  http://appliantology...er-disassembly/

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