Jump to content



Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


To get started, click here.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


DanInKansas

Member Since 12 Jan 2011
Offline Last Active Dec 22 2014 06:40 PM

#307948 Maytage PAV3240AWW washer -- sub in valve?

Posted by DanInKansas on 20 November 2014 - 08:36 PM

The solenoids point in different directions. The 285805 points the wire connectors straight towards the tub. The correct valve points them up and down.the 285805 then it could crush the wire connectors or solenoids.
 

 

Boom, done.  Not doing it. 


Part of my resistance is that I really don't want to encourage the other guys at work in this habit. 




#307650 GS6NBEXRB01 - Wpool SxS refer with mystery frost

Posted by DanInKansas on 15 November 2014 - 06:51 PM

Arigato Jay! 




#307510 GS6NBEXRB01 - Wpool SxS refer with mystery frost

Posted by DanInKansas on 12 November 2014 - 10:15 PM

Have not checked freezer temps.  Did clean a big bunch of dog hair off the condenser coil on my first visit because it seemed like the mullion strip was hot.  

 

On this model, you have, going from bottom to top:  the evaporator cover, the plastic liner guard that guides air up to the baffle, and the duct that feeds air to the icemaker and to the baffle on the fresh food side. 

 

The first picture is of that top air duct, which is part #4 on this drawing:  http://www.searspart...Mod=GS6NBEXRB01




#306025 110.82822102 dryer -- eats boards?

Posted by DanInKansas on 20 October 2014 - 05:09 PM

Went out today on this.  Customer had sent the control board back to corelogic as defective.  We put the new one on, and I checked the receptacle before plugging it in.  Receptacle was not aluminum.  I switched L1 and L2 around.  At that point the guy said, "oh yeah, I have a UPS downstairs on the L1 for this."  So I plugged it in, put it underway, and watched.  Worked great for ten minutes, at which point I called it good.  We'll see if it becomes a call back, but I think this was a noisy power issue. 




#305883 Walking out

Posted by DanInKansas on 18 October 2014 - 08:36 AM

Our install crews should probably do this, except that they'd successfully document about 800 cases of cross threading the inlet hose onto the water valve. 




#305845 1930 to 1950? GE monogram Model RT-7

Posted by DanInKansas on 17 October 2014 - 05:47 PM

I learned this lesson the hard way.  These things make great bookcases, planters, repurposed pantries, something like that.  I wouldn't it if I were you. 




#305595 Wolf RT364G rangetop gas odor

Posted by DanInKansas on 14 October 2014 - 07:39 AM

Ha! Samurai and I posted almost the same thing.  I must be getting smarter. 




#305522 Bosch SHX56C05UC/46 not cleaning, cycles wrong, runs with door open

Posted by DanInKansas on 12 October 2014 - 06:44 PM

The description of the pump impeller movement is normal. 

 

What's abnormal is the unit running with the door open. The door switch should prevent that from happening. Under the kick plate by the drain pump you should have a schematic, If you trace that you might get a sense of how the motor is still getting power.  The door switch may have been stuck in the closed position, or there may be another way the circuit is completing. 




#305434 Whirlpool Dishwasher GU1500XTLS1 - Grease spots inside

Posted by DanInKansas on 11 October 2014 - 04:55 PM

So the one thing about the drain line theory that I will ask you is that this is a dishwasher with the drain line hooked up to a disposal.
It has been an excellent dishwasher for a family of 4 up until about 6 months ago when it started giving this problem.

Would I have seen something earlier if it was a drain line that was the suspect.

I really appreciate all of the input and help I have gotten from you folks.
Thanks!

 

 

Would you have seen something?  Maybe, maybe not.  Problems can develop slowly over time and something you don't notice this week can get really noticeable four weeks from now.

 

What I would say is that it is worth the effort to open the door and check to make sure that the dishwasher drain hose is higher at some point in its run than the place it drains to.  Poor drain hose routing is by far the most common cause I see of problems in wash quality, poor drain/no drain, extended cycle times, guckus covering the optical water indicator and probably a few other things I'm not thinking of off the top of my head.

 

Poor detergent use, especially overdosing on detergent, is another very common cause of problems in dishwashers. 




#305257 KFIS27XCBL3 -- IM optics

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 07:18 PM

Yes to the test and seated portions of the show.  I'm not sure how you'd bypass the optics in this model; this is not our old friend 4389102.  This is Part number: W10273549

Part number: W10273549

 

Edited to add: I replaced a number of these under warranty when they first came out.  However, I was wet behind the ears then.  The receiver now subs to a different part number, which in something this young always makes me raise an eyebrow.  




#305244 KFIS27XCBL3 -- IM optics

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 05:55 PM

Had a call on this for "no ice."

 

IM was full of ice, but had not dispensed.

 

Put the machine into diagnostics, board reported the ice maker was "full or not present" with the bin in the door and no ice in the bin. 

 

I took the bin out, put it back in and redid the test, the screen read "bill not full and present".  Took unit out of diagnostic and it dumped and filled. 

 

Today received a "no ice" call.  

 

Is there any reason not to replace the optics?  Anyone run into something obscure on this like frost over the optics, bad main boards, or something on those lines?  




#305235 Should Appliances be plugged into GFI outlets?

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 05:10 PM

Went out the the other day on a call where the remodelers had put the gas stove, the dishwasher and the kitchen counter GFCI all on the same circuit. 

 

I already knew the answer to this question but didn't want to get into "well my electrician said..."  

 

So I called Whirlpool Techline, put the guy on speaker phone with the customer in the room, told him what I saw and he said, "absolutely do not have these appliances on the same circuit and absolutely do not put either one on a GFCI circuit." 

 

For what it's worth Whirlpool/Maytag will explicitly tell you to keep the dishwasher off the GFCI. 




#305223 Whrilpool French Door WRF989SDAF Dual Evaportors

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 02:45 PM

Hey, on the units you were out on with the sealing problem -- were those in the same serial # run as the problem evaporators or were those outside that run?  I ask because our Wpool regional sales rep is promising us that the problems are fixed on these units and that they now have a "normal warranty claim history."  (Boss has told him he's no longer putting dual evaps on the floor until the problems are worked out.)




#305194 Fisherpaykel Dishdrawer (model # tag is unreadable)

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 October 2014 - 08:19 AM

When I worked over in Kansas City, I dealt with a lot of Fisher Paykel dishdrawers. If you are running into a number of these, it can help to memorize the tests for "filling" and then "draining".  The fill valve on these go bad quite a lot, and the tiny rotor gets chewed up fairly easily.  Memorizing these two tests will help you get the majority of failures on these. I used to carry a dual valve and a rotor/impeller as truck stock. 




#305065 Old refer -- nnt156ga -- correct reassembly of front, mullion, false bottom

Posted by DanInKansas on 07 October 2014 - 03:14 PM

Okay, for anyone who ever comes across this post: the false bottom will get pushed upward by the defrost failure.  Even when thawed, the false bottom still doesn't quite want to line up.  When I took the mullion heater off, I slid the bottom out and pressed it back, pressing down and forward, making sure it lined up in the narrow groove along the sides and back of the unit.  After that reassembly was a cinch and now it closes great.  







FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics