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Member Since 12 Jan 2011
Offline Last Active Today, 08:15 AM

#323823 Kenmore Chest Freezer no start help mdl 198.8583580

Posted by DanInKansas on Today, 08:18 AM

 A few years back i changed to a solid state relay starter and got rid of the capacitor. It has been working fine until now.



#323822 LEQ6000ES0 Frigidaire Front Load Dryer rumbling

Posted by DanInKansas on Today, 07:11 AM

It's not always realistic, but whenever possible, I like to get the belt off the idler pulley on any "wrong noises" complaint on a dryer. This allows you to isolate if the noise is related to the drum's rotation or if it's related to the motor and blower wheel. 

#323821 Thermador GPS486GDSLP Simmer control module removal

Posted by DanInKansas on Today, 07:07 AM

Something went wrong in the model number, the BSH website doesn't recognize it.


This sounds very similar to a range I saw discussed in a BSH training I went to a while back. Essentially to do anything, you had to take off the entire cooktop, and this includes taking off two hidden screws where you need an extender for your driver. 


If you can get the right model number, I will see if I can post some disassembly instructions. 

#322010 Whirlpool W10251316....No Spin/Agitate and No Error Codes?!?!

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 June 2015 - 09:49 PM

Actually the flashing LEDs are your confirmation that you have entered the fault code mode.  You need to advance the knob another click clockwise to start getting your codes. 


The flashing far left light ("Sensing" on most models) is your "no fault codes at this time" signal.

#321909 Easy way to Test if SubZero Compressor Needs Replacement

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 June 2015 - 06:35 AM

I have found a reliable way to check the old "gas bulb" style cold control.


Depower the unit. Access the cold control.  


Directly under the cold control, do you see black powder?  If so, slam dunk. Replace the control. That dust is from the unit starting to fry itself out.

#321908 Easy way to Test if SubZero Compressor Needs Replacement

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 June 2015 - 06:31 AM

Go through Sub Zero. OEM parts are superior to Supco!


Rubbing your nose with sandpaper is superior to Supco. 

#321907 Whirlpool W10251316....No Spin/Agitate and No Error Codes?!?!

Posted by DanInKansas on 09 June 2015 - 06:27 AM

If the machine is going into high speed spin in your test mode, and it's going into high speed spin in the manual test mode, there are a few possibilities:

1) It is possible, but unlikely, that the main board is going intermittent on you. 


2)  It is possible, but unlikely, that there's a wire harness crimp that is overheating and separating during "live use."


3)  It is much more likely, since there are no error codes, that the machine is operating just like it's supposed to and something is wrong with the usage. 


Before throwing parts at this, check for the following:


A) Is this an He machine?  Is it getting He detergent?


B ) If this is an He machine, are you using 2 tablespoons for a normally sized, normally dirty load?  If you are oversudsing the machine, it will not be able to go into high speed spin. 


C) Are you putting enough clothing in it?  Too little clothing in a load will shift in this machine to the same side of the basket, preventing a high speed spin


D)  Lastly and most importantly: Are you putting in similar weights of clothing.  The VAST, and I mean VAST majority of my "no spin" warranty complaints on these units happen when someone is washing heavy fabrics and light fabrics in the same load. If you're washing socks and blue jeans in the same load, the socks will shift to one side of the tub and the jeans will go to the other.  The machine will never be able to balance and won't go into spin, and because it's doing its job, it won't report this as an error code.

#321762 WEE730H0DS0 --Slide in range with bad fan

Posted by DanInKansas on 07 June 2015 - 03:26 PM

Okay, that disassembly procedure I posted above is way too complicated.  It works, but I now have a much easier method.  Until there's a service manual, if anyone needs to replace the cooling fan on an F8 E0 error, here's the way to get to it. 


1)  Pull the unit forward.

2)  Remove the back grate over the glass top. (Three screws, grate dismounts by twisting up and out.)

2)  Remove the two "hidden" screws going vertically into the glass top

3)  Remove the plastic guard under the control panel. 

4)  Remove the control panel by taking out two screws, one on a bracket on each side. Unclip the wire harness.  Rest the control panel somewhere safe. 

5)  Three screws hold the glass top on the front.  Remove those, remove the glass top.

6)  Six screws hold the element assembly sheet to the frame. Take those out.  Carefully take the element assembly to a level flat surface where there are no children or cats.

7) One screw hold the fan assembly in place that you can now access directly. Remove and replace fan assembly.


This cuts the amount of time about in half compared to the method above. 

#321136 WEE730H0DS0 --Slide in range with bad fan

Posted by DanInKansas on 01 June 2015 - 05:29 PM

Got another one of these today. Same error code -- fan speed too slow. I cleared the error code and rebooted. Machine resumed normal operation on testing. I am ordering the fan assembly and have told the customer to call us if the machine quits working.

Part number is Part number: W10162259

Part number: W10162259

#321129 K-Aid undercounter IM -- KUIS18PNXB0 -- does everything too fast

Posted by DanInKansas on 01 June 2015 - 05:13 PM

So customer called and over the weekend ice maker resumed production. I am going to order the board and the wire harness and hold onto them for 30 days, since I don't trust self-healing machines. 

#319844 Kenmore Elite DW F665.13969K017 leaks from bottom (hose disconnected?)

Posted by DanInKansas on 13 May 2015 - 07:30 AM

The sump/pump assembly IS really simple, BUT that doesn't mean it's easy!!!


First of all, the videos for this will show you dismounting the unit.  DO NOT. If you have the unit uninstalled, reinstall, get it level, square, and secured to the anti-tip brackets. 


The reason: You're going to have to use some oomph doing this and if the dishwasher is flopping around it's going to be super frustrating.  You do need the drain hose disconnected but leave it on the disposal or its drain point.  If you've taken it off the the drain point to dismount, make sure you get your high loop (ie, "air gap") back in place. If you have water and power disconnected, leave them out for now, but do get that sucker nice, tight and level.  


Sounds like you have the old assembly uninstalled, so I won't start there. 


To put in the new assembly:


1)  Get a bottle of rinse-aid.  Use the Rinse Aid as the lubricant for the rubber seal for the new assembly.  Rinse Aid is a boss lubricant: it doesn't stain and it doesn't degrade rubber.


2)  Hook  up the wire harness to the motor.  You won't be able to easily reach that once the new assembly is in place. 


3)  Take your old assembly and set it upside down next to you so that you can easily visualize where the three locking tabs are  .


4)  Lead with the motor and slide the assembly into place.  As you pointed out, there is a slot on the frame and a tab on the assembly that keys the unit, but the drain hose outlet still has to be wrestled into place, so don't be alarmed if you scratch it.


5) Once you get it into place, it will usually be slightly off level.  Mash the bejabbers out of the back of the assembly so it's flush to the floor and before it pops out, slide your hand back and get the back locking tab into place. 


6)  Now that you have that done, this is going to get a lot easier. With help from a friend, mash down on the right hand side and flip the front locking tab into place. If you don't have help from a friend and you're really agile, you can mash the right side and flick the front locking tab.


7)  You now should be able to flick that left hand side locking tab into place. Again it's easier if you have a friend, but I do this job by myself and I'm in about the 10th percentile for physical strength.  If I can do it you can too!


8)  Put your optical sensor back onto its wire harness and twist into place.


9)  Put your drain pump back on.


10)  Put your drain hose back on. 


11)  Pour about a gallon of water into the unit so that the new seal is totally underwater.  Wait for a bit.  Get your flashlight and watch for drips.  You'll see a few drops because of the Rinse Aid.  Wipe those up and wait another couple of minutes.  If you don't have it water tight, it won't be subtle!!!


12)  If It looks water tight, rehook to water and power (if necessary) and run a test cycle. 

#319595 Whirlpool WRF989SDAM00 Refrigerator - Freezer Not Freezing

Posted by DanInKansas on 10 May 2015 - 03:10 PM

What is whirlpool's rationale for suggesting a compressor change if there is an evap leak?


Given the number of "whoopsies" Whirlpool found rushing this POS to market without doing QA testing, I would guess they discovered something ELSE during their extended warranty service.  


My regional sales manager keeps telling our store owner to put the dual evaps back on the floor.  He swears they now have fixed all the problems and that the dual evap now has "a normal warranty history." 


We would like to believe this but you have to admit we have reasons for being skeptical. 

#319593 Asko ventless stackable washer/dryer. T753C

Posted by DanInKansas on 10 May 2015 - 03:05 PM

I don't know anything about this model, but just doing a little brainstorming: 


1)  Are you sure that the washer is getting the clothes ready for the dryer?  Are the clothes going in excessively wet? Is the amount of detergent appropriate for the load and washer? Are you seeing lots of suds in the washer during the rinse cycle? 


2) If the washer is fine, the dryer seems to having a problem with water that once was getting evaporated that now isn't. 


3) to evaporate water you need heat and air flow. Therefore: 


4)  Something may have changed since March in terms of how this dryer is getting heat to this condenser tray or in terms of how air flows over it. ASKO dryers usually have a dual coil -- are both of these still working right?  


The last one of these I worked on was about 4 1/2 years ago.  It was in a laundry closet, covered with lint, and surrounded by dresses and garments in dry cleaning bags. The resettable TCO on the dryer had popped.  I was in training at the time, and my trainer told the owner to keep the closet more organized so the dryer wouldn't get as hot.  I could picture this kind of setting keeping the air from flowing correctly. 

#319591 hot point washer model# htwp1400f1ww moters not lasting

Posted by DanInKansas on 10 May 2015 - 02:52 PM

The problem is that you have a Hotpoint washer. I would suggest addressing this issue first.


Edited to add:  Okay, that's not totally helpful.  But in all seriousness, at our store, we recondition used appliances and sell them to the rental market.  Any GE/Hotpoint washer goes straight to our scrap truck. 

#319476 Maytag MFI2569YEM0 Lights on, nothing else

Posted by DanInKansas on 08 May 2015 - 11:51 PM

Well, here's my thought process on this: if no other loads besides the lights are working, what makes the lights special?


The only schematic I found on here searching a string for "MFI2569*" was for an MFI2669, so there's always a chance I'm looking at something not applicable. 


On the schematic I'm looking at, the lights come to neutral through the board.  All the other AC loads take their loads spliced into white.


If that's the case, Bryan's advice would seem best.  Disconnect the loads not at the board but where they go to neutral. See if anything lights up. 

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