Well, guess I'll post here again, after a long pause as well. New forum and all.
Unlikely that it is the inlet valve that hums at the end of cycle... more like the (drain) pump.
From your description as well as the parts list, it appears that it has separate pumps for circulation and drain.
You said you took some foreign particles out of it... and it still won't empty the basin, but leaks on the floor, and the rest of the tubing is clear?
My hunch (but only a hunch) is bad, bad drain pump.
After a long period of idling around, I will chime in. This info is mostly general, can be found elsewhere on the forums, and might be of little value whatsoever, but here goes.
Intake water temp can affect cycle times, but usually very little. Generally, warmer intake water shortens the cycle, but there are some "smart" units that will not work optimally (or well at all) when hooked in hot water. They expect a predetermined temperature change after heating the water for a period. While the heaters are designed to heat cold water up to about 70C, they seldom are efficient in maintaining a much higher temperature than that (heat loss comes in as a factor here), let alone heating 60C water by 50C.
Dumb units with mechanical timer and simple bimetal thermostat will usually work well with hot intake, but rarely, this actually shortens the cycle too much to be efficient. If these cycle abnormally long (or virtually forever) with cold intake, that is often a sign of inefficient heater.
Smart units with mutha-luvin' scientific control boards can suffer from solder decay along with other illnesses. There are a few series of Bosch units out there that are specially susceptible to this, but the common case usually renders the unit incapable of heating at all after some time of intermittent operation.
The temperature sensor (or thermostat, depending on unit anatomy) is another part that can go flaky, as well as virtually any metal-to-metal connection in a device that operates with water.
If the unit runs too long or intermittently, and "needs a board" you might get lucky repairing the said board if you have even mediocre skills with soldering. The board typically has a relay that controls power to the heater. One or more of the solders holding it to the board can be badly burned and possibly sputtered open.
While resoldering those can make the unit work again, the real problem usually is that the relay is underrated for handling the heater current. The contacts will become pitted and eventually the relay heats up enough to partially melt the solder. The solder alloy slowly loses some of its constituents until it becomes brittle. Also when the heat chars the board around the solder spots, the tracings become unattached and break easily. Repairing the board you may need to run wires right off the relay solder points to where the tracings go. Needless to say, replace the relay with one that fits the footprint but can handle higher current.