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Keinokuorma

Member Since 26 Jun 2006
Offline Last Active Nov 07 2014 01:15 PM

#77246 Kenmore Elite Frig. 106.54603300

Posted by Keinokuorma on 13 August 2007 - 12:32 AM

You could check the defrost heater and terminator for continuity... and if they have continuity, test defrost timer or ADC board, whichever your unit has. Plenty of info on that on the forums. If it has an ADC board instead of defrost timer, it is the most likely culprit... but check the heater and terminator anyway. The heater should have some tens of Ohms, terminator should have Zero Ohm resistance, if it is higher it will heat itself and terminate the defrost cycle prematurely. This is a calrod heater, unlikely to go bad anyway.

Heater looks like this: http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=452192 and it wraps around the evaporator coils. The terminator (a.k.a. thermostat) is often just wired serially to the heater. couldn't find pics for the other parts though, look up from  www3.sears.com. if you need parts...





#52199 Revenge of the Bosch Front Loader - It Can't Figure Out the Door's Shut

Posted by Keinokuorma on 05 September 2006 - 02:33 AM

[user=12215]Turaco[/user] wrote:

I get the normal display on the front panel, and still get the whine sound from inside. I have removed the rear panel, and it all looks good so far, no broken or disconnected wires. The water supply seems fine.

I recall you have the same machine as Kamineko (WFK2401UC). Your water valve should look like this:

Posted Image

there are two at the water inlets, I assume, but also one mounted to the body? - a metallic tube about 4 inches long- not sure what it is if it's not a solenoid


The solenoids can be at fault. Measure continuity of the solenoid coils. Then check that they're getting voltage at the begin of the cycle. The other valve is for hot and the other for cold water,each has two coils and valves in them, so that if one valve fails open (for gookus in the water etc.) the other will still keep the machine from flooding the laundry room (for a while). Both coils must actuate for water to pass, both coils on both valves should have continuity, I think in the range of some 1000-2000 ohms. Infinite is definitely bad, and near zero is no good either. Even if the coil is OK and gets voltage, the solenoid may nót actuate, in which case it is bad. If the metal tube under the valves has wires going into it, I assume it is the temperature sensor.

Now I can be wrong about this bit, because at least the Finnish market machines have only a cold water inlet and an internal heater in the tub. But in this mixing scheme, the machine should first try and take in hot water, until the sensor senses it is hot enugh, or a bit too hot, and then start pulsing in cold water by the need, to adjust the temperature. Assuming this is true:

- If the cold valve fails closed, the machine should close the hot valve, if regulation by cold water does not work. Some water would fill in.

- If the hot valve fails closed, nothing will happen

- If the temp sensor fails to "hot", the machine will fill up with cold water, and if it fails "cold" there will only be hot water.

So in the case of no water at all, the hot valve may be at fault. Try to operate them directly by applying 120V... preferably from a 1:1 insulation transformer if you can get access to one. Sometimes a car battery is enough, as it's DC and the coil inductance does not interfere. Remember that both coils on the valve must be powered to let water through. Having a coil powered for too long without water, can melt the coil or at least the temp fuse on the coil, if it has one. The coil will then appear to have infinite resistance.

- My question: Could all of this be caused by broken / defective motor brushes, or would the washer still fill with water and drain as normal?


The motor brushes would cause the "no agitate/spin" problem where water fills in first, then it will eventually drain. Water fillup will take forever if water isn't coming in. Draining is timed, and rarely relies on any sensors (this can cause water being left in after drain cycle, if the drain chain is restricted somewhere).  

From the picture of the fascia I get that it has a rotary dial for cycle selection, right? Is it a ratchet knob that only turns clockwise, and will turn slowly during the cycle? If so, there is an old school sequencer for some operations, and this will make it a little easier to troubleshoot.

Assuming the control unit is working OK, and it would not fill up, but try to turn the motor over to no avail, the water level sensor may be at fault - if the machine thinks there's enough water already, it won't try to fill. If this is the case, then after fixing the level sensor the next step is to check that motor is OK and getting voltage.

Now, the motor can have multiple field windings and their wires, and the rotor wires, this may add up to a tensome of wires going into the motor. But as it seems to be on these motors, the first culprit to no agitation would be the brushes. If you need to certify, try to measure continuity right between the brush holders, or the rotor wires on the harness if you can reach them easier. Anyway, you had the motor changed recently...

Keep us posted!

I will PM the Great Samurai and ask him if I have perhaps again gotten deranged here...:D





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