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Member Since 07 Feb 2011
Offline Last Active Today, 09:25 AM

#301867 Frigidaire Professional Dishwasher Model #FPHD2491KF0

Posted by tumblin'man on 25 August 2014 - 11:43 PM

Problem solved.  In the Power wash and Normal wash modes, I found that there can be a long, 60 second delay between the end of the fill and the start of the wash motor. After the installation of a new control board, when I ran Power wash, the dishwasher seemed to just fill and then quit.   I don't think I ever gave it a full minute when testing the new board to go from fill to wash.  So I thought that even with a new board, the dishwasher wasn't working.


I was thrown off because in the Quick Rinse mode, there is no delay between the end of the fill and the start of the wash motor.  So I thought the other modes should not have a delay either.


I discovered this long delay kind of by accident.


It's my opinion that this delay should have been mentioned on the tech sheet.  I hope this will help someone else.  So, the only thing wrong was that the dishwasher needed a new board.  

#281574 Semi-logical question regarding Whirlpool Duet washer

Posted by tumblin'man on 17 January 2014 - 11:12 AM

Wow, what an awesome answer Mr. Samurai.  I think your video clip deserves an Oscar nomination, perhaps a new category like best Samurai short film with an injured Sumo washer in a supporting role.  Absolutely masterful.  Much appreciated.  Man, that makes sense too.


PS, I had an Asian customer recently refer to himself as the grasshopper and me as the master.  He had no idea how inaccurate that really was, but since I thought about the repair before I got there I looked good.

#260924 Kenmore direct drive washer voltage drop puzzler

Posted by tumblin'man on 12 July 2013 - 04:28 PM

I just installed the replacement timer and the washer is spinning merrily.  Tonight I'm going to unseal the old timer and look inside and see what those spin contacts (#14) look like and also measure the resistance across those contacts.  Thanks Eric, Willie and Samurai.   :thanks:

#249951 Stupid little hose, big pain in the kiester

Posted by tumblin'man on 13 March 2013 - 01:39 PM

Thank you very much Nick,

You are a very resourceful person to have come up with that approach (looking at the tub ring) and I appreciate your help. It looks like it may be a bleach hose, so it's probably more important to the customer than I assumed.  Much appreciated!



#249941 Stupid little hose, big pain in the kiester

Posted by tumblin'man on 13 March 2013 - 10:41 AM

Kenmore Direct Drive washer Model Number 110.20972991



I need to replace a badly rotted hose which has torn in half.  I can’t find the part on any diagrams or at any of the major part websites.  Can anyone help me locate a part number  so I can order one?


The hose is on a Kenmore direct drive washer.  The washer has a 6-solenoid water valve that looks like this:  http://www.repaircli...er=110.20972991.


The hose is located at the top left rear of the washer just below the top panel, and you can see it when you tilt the control panel out of the way and then remove a plastic cover that provides access to the fill hoses.


The hose that I need to replace is connected to this Venturi connector:  http://www.repaircli.../8272010/728000


The hose I need to replace connects to the right hand outlet of the Venturi connector.  The hose is about 8 inches long, one-half inch wide, has one 90 degree bend and two 45 degree bends, threads through the tub ring and has a little slot at its end below the tub ring and this slot sprays water. 


If I can’t obtain the part, can I just clamp up the bad hose so there is no more leaking and the customer will still have a functioning washer although without the spray action during the spin cycle? 


I thought that this would be a simple repair, but it seems like there is always something…

#219271 Whirlpool Stove #WFG114SVQ0 Spark module question

Posted by tumblin'man on 03 January 2012 - 07:36 PM

Well, there was no voltage to the spark module with a burner on. The polarity at the outlet was correct. The switch harness looked good and tested good for continuity with one switch on and power to stove off. Then I looked for a loose ground, thinking the electrodes might not be properly grounded. Nope, all okay. Then, feeling like I really maybe don't know what I'm doing, I noticed that the black wire was kind of pinched in the rear upper corner of the stove. I took a closer look and found a small gash in the wire's insulation. Voila! Problem solved. I spliced around the gashed wire, turned on the power, and was happy to see ignition and liftoff. Fun. Thanks to this board for your help. It is really appreciated.

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