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Member Since 07 Feb 2011
Offline Last Active Jul 23 2015 10:29 AM

Topics I've Started

Frigidaire Professional Dishwasher Model #FPHD2491KF0

15 August 2014 - 09:13 AM

Greetings fellow trouble shooters and trouble makers.  I have a tale of woe and frustration to tell.  It begins with a Frigidaire Professional DW, although it should be called a Frigidaire Amateur DW. Or another name would be Frigidaire Professional Frustrating dishwasher.   A service manual for this nice looking piece of crap is not available; there is a tech sheet but it is pretty sketchy IMHO.


It is Model FPHD2491KF0.  This sleek looking item has the touch panel buttons “hidden” on the top of the door.  Nothing wrong with that, of course, as long as it functions properly.  Which it doesn’t.  But what else is new?


The problem is, when you try to run any of the wash cycles except the Quick Rinse cycle, then press start, the DW will fill properly but then stop.  It is deadly silent.  The room is quiet except for the soft rustle of the wind through the trees outside.  The motor does not turn on.  Then, when you have had enough of the silence, and just can’t take it anymore, the impatient repairman presses  Start/Cancel to make it drain. This task our Frigidaire performs beautifully, as if it didn’t have a care in the world and knew nothing of the repairman’s aggravation..  I tell you, it can’t wash but it can drain with the best of them.


But just for the fun of it, sometimes in the Quick Rinse cycle, it will fill AND the wash motor will work fine.  Why does it do this?  Why is this cycle different than all other cycles?  (Could the turbidity sensor have something to do with this?)


On all the wash cycles that I tried there is 120 VAC to the control board, but there is no voltage going from the board to the motor except on Quick Rinse.


The motor is good; it runs with 120VAC directly applied with a test cord.


The control panel buttons seem responsive; the green LEDs light up and go off when you press the buttons.


So of course I replaced the two control boards and this did not fix it.  There was an unpleasant moment but it passed.


I could spend more money and try replacing the control panel (touch pad).   But I had my doubts about that because the buttons on the touch pad seem to work when I press them.  With one big exception:   except that they are totally dead when I try to enter water/service test.  This test will not start.  It is dead—no lights, sounds, nothing.


Does it need a new touch pad?


Is it possible that the turbidity sensor or the NTC or another part is telling the control to fill but not to run the motor?  I have spent hours and hours on this one, not to mention $$.  Please, any help would be gratefully accepted.  I would like to at least break even on this and learn whatever deeper mysteries might be revealed to me by the sage commenters on this forum.


PS:  I hope I don’t come off sounding like a pompous ass; I just didn’t want to make this boring—I really need some help here.  Thank you.


Link to tech sheet file below.


Tumblin' Man



Semi-logical question regarding Whirlpool Duet washer

16 January 2014 - 11:49 PM

The owner of a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet washer reports her machine is not tumbling or spinning and there is an F/11 and F/dL error code.  The service manual shows that one of the possible causes is loose connections to the MCU, the motor, and CCU.  


If I go to their house and run a diagnostic test and the machine performs all of its tasks correctly on the diagnostic test and does not throw off any error codes on the test, can loose connections be ruled out as a cause of the F/11 and f/dL error code?  (i.e., the machine worked for the test, and how could it do that with loose connections?)


I haven't done the diagnostic test on the machine yet, but was wondering about it ahead of time. Anyone got a quick answer to this?  Thanks.


P.S.  F/11  is Serial Commuication Error  (Communication between the CCU and the MCU cannot be sent correctly.


P.P.S.  F/dL  is Door Lock Error

I just installed a new transmission on a Maytag washerand now spin is noisy

18 December 2013 - 12:45 AM

Hello Samurai and other honorable readers:


Today, I had to install a new transmission and new tub seal on a Maytag washer.  The washer is a Maytag MAV5920EWW (Performa platform).  I used part #35-6615 which comes with a new high torque transmission and a tub seal kit.  When I finished, I tested the washer and it tested fine, although this was without a load of clothing.


The customer just called me and said that she did a few medium loads and the washer is banging loudly in spin, like “there is a rock in there” she said. 


I asked her a few questions.  She answered that the washer is not walking and the brake stops the spin normally when the lid is lifted.


I think I did this job by the book.  The snubber is in good shape.


I am going back the day after tomorrow to see what I did wrong.  Can anyone help me on this?


Maybe I didn’t tighten the basket down tight enough?  Maybe the basket isn’t perfectly centered?  Maybe the hub nut is not screwed on super tight?  Maybe one bolt somewhere just isn’t tight enough, but I thought I was careful.  Should I have re-lubricated the thrust washer?  I’d be so happy to see a loose spring but I doubt I’ll get so lucky. 


If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would be grateful for any help.  Thanks.

Kenmore direct drive washer voltage drop puzzler

07 July 2013 - 01:47 PM

 Kenmore direct drive washer puzzler.  Model 110.29422801


Complaint:  The washer agitates, but on the spin cycle the water does not drain and the washer does not spin, but there is a hum, it is not silent.


With a test cord with its own capacitor connected to the motor, the motor will drain and spin just fine. 


With the lid switch bypassed, there is 120 volts to the motor on the agitate cycle and the motor turns.


With the lid switch bypassed, there is only 103 volts to the motor on the spin cycle and the motor does not turn.


Sorry, but I can’t remember exactly which terminals I tested for the above voltage checks at the motor, but I did it a few times in both agitate and spin. 


I tested the start capacitor with an analog ohm meter and the meter’s needle deflected as expected.


I did a test on the timer.  From timer terminal 2 (incoming black hot wire) to terminal 5 (blue wire which goes to run winding) the timer switch seemed to be opening and closing when it should (0.2 ohms in closed position).  But it also should be doing this in agitate, and it was.  So this was a waste of time, except I have never tested timers before so now I should do better next time.


I left the customers house thinking a new timer is needed, and realized I forgot to measure the timer switch #14 to see if this was closing during the spin cycle.  Does this sound like it is the problem?  Maybe it has a little resistance and is dropping the 18 volts?


I can’t figure out where else the unwanted resistance is for the missing 18 volts in the spin cycle. 


The wiring diagram is very similar to the whirlpool direct drive service manual wiring diagram, except that the lid switch is connected to the neutral wire and thus the motor will not run in either agitate or spin if the lid is opened.


Can any one offer a good idea on this?  It would be much appreciated.  I found a used timer for $27 and I would like to just install that and see if that makes the washer spin.


P.S.  It is not the drain pump, as the washer spins and drains with my test cord. 


It is not the lid switch, since agitate works and there is no voltage drop across the lid switch in agitate.


I was also thinking of just swapping another capacitor.  Is it possible that the capacitor is only good in one direction?  

Thanks anyone for your suggestions.

Stupid little hose, big pain in the kiester

13 March 2013 - 10:41 AM

Kenmore Direct Drive washer Model Number 110.20972991



I need to replace a badly rotted hose which has torn in half.  I can’t find the part on any diagrams or at any of the major part websites.  Can anyone help me locate a part number  so I can order one?


The hose is on a Kenmore direct drive washer.  The washer has a 6-solenoid water valve that looks like this:  http://www.repaircli...er=110.20972991.


The hose is located at the top left rear of the washer just below the top panel, and you can see it when you tilt the control panel out of the way and then remove a plastic cover that provides access to the fill hoses.


The hose that I need to replace is connected to this Venturi connector:  http://www.repaircli.../8272010/728000


The hose I need to replace connects to the right hand outlet of the Venturi connector.  The hose is about 8 inches long, one-half inch wide, has one 90 degree bend and two 45 degree bends, threads through the tub ring and has a little slot at its end below the tub ring and this slot sprays water. 


If I can’t obtain the part, can I just clamp up the bad hose so there is no more leaking and the customer will still have a functioning washer although without the spray action during the spin cycle? 


I thought that this would be a simple repair, but it seems like there is always something…

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