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southern engineer

Member Since 11 Mar 2011
Offline Last Active Nov 16 2013 08:03 AM

Topics I've Started

replacement boiler recommendation

14 October 2013 - 12:02 PM

I would appreciate recommendations on a good quality and efficient replacement residential heating boiler by brand and model that doesn't cost all of my beer money for the next 20 years.  The home is two story, has an unlined brick chimney in excellent shape, baseboard heaters, two line voltage thermostats which run two (1 1/4 inch inlet each) pumps one for upstairs and one for downstairs, and is 2,100 sq/ft.  The original boiler is a Crane Sunnyday model 15-5, water net IBR rating 114,000, B-R burner capacity BTU/HR 190,000, Max WP water 30 lbs., Valve Cap LB/hr 168. and is running on natural gas. 

Liberty LBP200 no pilot ignition with combustion fan running.

11 October 2013 - 08:04 PM

Hello all; I have a Crane Sunnyday boiler #15-5 190,000 btu/hr burner capacity that is equiped with a Liberty model LBP200 power gas burner serial #5497 natural gas rated at 200,000 btu/hr max input. This power gas burner has a Franklin electric cage fan motor at 115 volts. Two line voltage thermostats, one for each of the two floors. Newly installed components include: Gas valve is a Honeywell VR8345M4302 24 volts outlet setting is factory set at 3.5 in. wc. The transformer is a Honeywell Tradeline AT72D rated at 40 VA @ 24 VAC. Electronic ignition controller is Honeywell S8610U3009 intermitent pilot, continuous retry. Igniter is Honeywell 392431. Also a solid core plug wire with ceramic protection over ignition wire.

This setup worked great (except for the spark wire needing to be replaced every 6 months due to the end getting burned at the ignitor) for three years but had three year old components that the parts change monkey (me) replaced with the new components in an attempt to fix the " no pilot ignition with the fan running" that arose about a month ago. After the new components were installed, it is still acting exactly the same. The older components were obviously still good.

During my testing, I removed the power burner unit and found a broken wire inside that for a short time caused no 110 volt power leaving the unit to fire up the ignition transformer. I attached it to the only terminal on the terminal strip that did not have a wire and the ignitor started working again, but still no pilot flame and I didn't find the broken wire tip under any of the screws. I pulled the burner out and flipped it upside down to watch the pilot in action and as I cupped the area aroung the pilot, it lit up so I adjusted the ignitor so that it would ignite and reinstalled the burner into the boiler. Still no flame action for the pilot, so I separated the burner unit/fan, and the ignition system with separate 110v cords. I plugged the ignition cord into the power coming from the hi, lo temp cutout switches on the boiler and the pilot lit right up and then the main burner light right after that so I immediately plugged in the burner fan and the boiler heated just like it is supposed to, until the boiler reaches high temp and shuts down, but after the boiler temp cools down and the system calls for heat The pilot won't light on it's own. So for the boiler to heat I need to follow that routine each time.

I think ether the wiring is wrong (sabotage), or a component is bad within the power burner unit, or air turbulence at the pilot. The only things in the burner are the fan, terminal strip, transformer, a small contact, and some wiring. Would you all have a wiring schematic and component function description for the inside of the Liberty Combustion corp. model LBP200 so I can understand the burner wiring better. Does the transformer run the fan at two different speeds, or what is it even there for? Why does the pilot ignite only when the fan is not running when it used to light fine while the fan was feeding combustion air? Money is in short supply, but I would appreciate upgrade recommendations to this system.

Thank you very much Masters of the appliance world for any assistance you can offer!

Hotpoint WLW3700R washer transmission oil leak. Are they worth repairing?

26 June 2013 - 05:07 PM

Greetings Wise One, and appliance repair Gurus! 

I am in need of wisdom from you as a relative of mine has an older Hotpoint WLW3700R top load washer; 6 cycle, heavy duty, extra large capacity, two speed washing machine that started leaking yellow oily fluid from the bottom.  I am guessing the transmission is giving up its liquid of life.  This washing machine is said to be still functioning as it should, and no comment of odd noises.  Are these washers worthy of a DIY repair without being very costly (time and money), or is it better to send it to the great trash heap in the sky when the transmission runs dry?  Do these washers have an underlying cause for the transmission to leak?  Are the complete transmissions still available, as I saw only replacement parts at the HotPoint, and Repair Clinic sites?  Thanks for all your assistance!

No drain, SUD code, drain pump hum, Kenmore model 110.44832 200 HE3t,

15 October 2012 - 10:54 AM

Hello all knowing masters of appliantology:
My Kenmore HE3T front load washer model 110.44832 200 will spin in (drain/spin cycle),but won't drain, I haven't attempted any other cycle since the washer quit in the middle of a wash load yesterday. The display showed (SUd), and after attempting the drain/spin option I was greeted with the control lock turning on. Unpluging the machine cleared the control lock feature.
I pulled the strainer at the bottom and cleaned it but it didn't have much in it. I also replaced the hose to the (analog water level pressure sensor) in hopes of a cheap fix, but to no avail. I pulled the drain pump and noted the impeller gets resistance every half rotation. I turned it both directions and the stiff spots go somewhat easier, but are still very noticable. I removed the analog water level pressure sensor, and applied slight vacuum, then pressure to the port and noted the thingamajig inside the AWLPS went back to original position after vacuum was removed, but when pressure was removed, the thingamajig stuck where the pressure put it. Which path shall the lowly grasshopper take to see the light again.
All help will be greatly appriciated!!

Kenmore 790.93751104 electric range warmer switch repair

10 January 2012 - 06:27 PM

I have a 5 year old Kenmore / Frigidaire electric range that had a bad warmer switch for the front left 8 inch element. The switch contacts would stick and cause a buzzing noise, and also caused the element to overheat. I wanted to spend my money on brews rather than $150.00 for a new #316442301 warmer switch, so I purchased a new FRIGIDAIRE 5303935086 SURFACE UNIT SWITCH KIT for $15.00 + shipping, and looks identical to the back half of the old switch. Just pry the metal side clips up on both new and old switch until the metal covers will lift off. Discard new metal cover, shaft, and rear portion of old switch. Install the old shaft in the new switch making sure the contact pivot pin is seated in the appropriate hole in the insulating separator plate, and reattach the front portion of the old 316442301 warmer switch to the new 5303935086 switch. I also needed to replace the 8 inch burner element for $22.00 as it was turning powdery from overheating. The element works like brand new again, and was very inexpensive to repair this way.

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