Greetings fellow appliantologists.
I seek a service manual to a ge Built-in 42 inch ref, model ZISW420DMC. Ive seen two of them in as many days. First was just a couple /IM Door parts, but second requires diagnostic skills that only the service manual can provide.
Is there anyone out here that has this and can I get a copy please?
Coastal Appliance Heating & Air
Really would love if you can elaborate on the process of removing the front panel and the bull nose. This is a problem Ive been trying to see around for some time now and advice would mean I can now change gas valves and potentiometers when the next job arises.
Something about the side panels coming off to access the front panel screws?
The drain pump should have a resistance of about 7.5 ohms. Anything less than 6 ohms and I would not use the pump again. However there is also the possibility of the pump tripping its thermal sensor even with acceptable resistince. The windings (coil) can get hot from inductive impedence and that cannot be as easily identified. If the pump is shutting down then starting again after a few minutes, that is the cause. Replace the pump, AND install a 2.5 amp SLO_BLO fuse in the pump drain wire.
Well now youre going to have using your diagnostic skills. Find the tech sheet (behind the lower drawer) and start taking measurements. The heater should show about 25 ohms each track. Thermister, about 12K at R.T Water valves about 65 each. Stator about 33 ohms from leg to leg. If every thing checks out well, try swapping the controllers from top to bottom and then the LCD badges. Good luck
I use the SL200 as well. Whatever Im looking at, after 2 days Ive got enough of a track record to read the problem out like a book. Indespensible for those intermittant problems, but you do need to understand the box so you can interpret the data
Ok, Do none of the burners respond with clicking?
If so you probably have a dead REIG module. Also you MUST have the correct polarity to this module as well as an earth ground
If you get another REIG module, be DAMN SURE you connect the wires in the EXACT position as before
Hint: take a picture or draw a detailed diagram
If its a gas flame, the problen is gas flow--- somewhere. You said that you did a self clean (which most of here consider a major no-no) and afterward the problem presented itself to you.
Just a guess, but the heat may have baked some grease or whatever else have you in the gas valve or the line or even in the oriface spud. Soooooo, you have to get access to the (1) burner, (2) gas line and (3) burner valve in that order. My guess is that a piece of gunk got baked into a cinder, dropped in the gas line and lodged itself in the burner spud.
Probably #3 on the difficulty scale
Unless you have access to the wiring diagram Id advise having out a service tech. Its been my experience though- that the heating elements dont go bad all that often. There has been an ongoing problem relating to overheated solder joints on the heater relay on the control module. Once you gain access to the module, a close visual inspection under magnification will tell. I'd get out my soldering gun, touch up the joint and all's well. Done this enough times now that's where I'd go looking first...
Pressure buildup and the flow is great for a second or two then down to dribble. Analogy: Voltage is good but current is limited. Last time I saw the same situation (oh, Joni Mitchell...), the lady had choked up lines in the house and I proved it by showing the same results from the valve at the wall. Youre sure you have good flow from your wall valve? If you do, theres a major restriction (NOT blockage) in that box somewhere.
When a Bosch motor hangs up and buzzes, first think I ask is when did it last run? Sometimes suprisingly they say, Oh, a couple months. Really? Well when the seals dry up they stick. And these motors dont have that much startup torque so instead they just buzz.
So you take off the LH cover, get access to the motor and I always use a wooden push stick to dislodge the motor since I cant always kill the power. But if it happens again within a few weeks, man you gotta gey yourself a new motor. Your bearings are getting to shot.
Well, I will stand in Fisher Paykels corner because I know them so well. First I dont see them often and that in itself is a very good harbinger. They have a full diagnostic suite that can run any portion of the oven to test out.
I also press upon my customers the importance of avoiding self clean modes
But the nices thing about a FP oven is that it will maintail your set temp within +/- 2 deg. None of the others can do that far as Im aware.
Second choice woul;d also be a Dacor or KA
I second that the filter dryer should always be changed, especially if the system ever got hot as that can liberate the water thats held in suspension in the filter. Get a micron guage (not that expensive) and pull down to at least 100 mic. Then hold it there for a good hour.